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Whats Lying on your Workbench MK IV


Urashiman

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Thanks Sketchley for the links!

The color looks good Arbit!  The photo looks kinda purplish.

FINALLY dug into some styrene work.  The structure of the pods are done.  It was fun cutting the angled slots into the pods for the stators.  If the gray nozzles look to you like they came from an old pod racer kit, you're right!  From my spares box.  You can see the waterfoil shapes in the stator sides a little better in the finished product.  Then I cleaned a lot of junk out of the hull to save weight and make space.  The propeller channels are built into the hull from 1" styrene tube and the battery holders for the PT-15.    Just waiting for the epoxy to cure now and clean it up. - MT

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Edited by MechTech
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The waterproofing is not bad actually.  Everything is so small it will go in little disposable sauce cups with lids.  The hull will be lined with foam for buoyancy too.

Nyankodevice, now I know what to do with all the stuff in my spares box;)  Interesting build! - MT

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2 hours ago, Nyankodevice said:

well....

the legs look better than i expected :lol:

 

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Contract's you did what I was afraid to do, so long back ,,, when Macross came out I was chatting with friend's  { who I no longer chat with} I saw the same ideal's your showing  in the Mech's back in the 80's   now you in the top 10,000 Kit basher's so many of us out there I've always Enjoyed the Creative side of model making.   are you going to do the same with all the other part from the kit's you haven't used ?  if you do you can call the     { Group of Mech's } CALLED { The Junk yard Dog Club.}

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On ‎1‎/‎8‎/‎2017 at 4:57 PM, derex3592 said:

Nice Frankenmecha! 

Good progress today on the 31 kit,  just the legs left to do 

 

Looking good!  I did a similar build of one of the Sv-262s over the holidays, just a quick slap-together job.  I think that one holds up a bit better than the 31, and feels more sturdy all around.

So as far as things to glue on the VF-31 kits, you're going to need it on a few pieces at least.  Namely, the plates that are supposed to snap in ahead of the gun barrels under the wings, and the tail mounts.

On mine, the tails are only held in by the outer wing segments, so if you try to extend and fold them, the tails just fall off.  Those you can probably safely glue in.

The gun barrel panels though might actually need to be removed for transforming the valk, since I think the instructions show it (they fixed this on the DX version, the panels are permanently part of the wing).

Other things you might want to consider gluing together are the thighs, since mine seem to love to pop apart if I try to move them too much.

I've got another Hayate kit incoming, and I might actually just do one using all the stickers to see how it turns out.  I halfway think they intend for the stickers to help hold the kit together sometimes. :p

 

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On 2017-01-04 at 6:31 PM, captain america said:

 

Is it just me, or does the "new" MW feel like someone turned off the lights?

Scroll down to the very bottom of the page, on the left you will see the word 'Themes" left click on it and select 'White/Blue'. BAM! lights are back on.

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This guy finally came in from Japan. Apparently there has been a lift of the ban of Star Wars Bandai kits as of the new year I guess,  as several online model places have new stock,  so that's a good thing,  they'll be easier to get now!  Bad news for our wallets... LOL 

 

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Finished the Vf-31 kit today.  Not one drop of glue.  This thing locks together SUPER tight in fighter mode.  I'm amazed, you can swoosh it around and shake it,  nothing rattles or pops off. I would never say it's a replacement for the DX,  but for 30 bucks,  it ain't bad.  Don't know if I'll try a transformation or not.  Maybe later,  gonna ponder a cool custom paint scheme to do on it.   

 

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1 hour ago, Thom said:

Great looking VF-31!

Here's my current project, just short of paint.

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how many shade's OF Gray & Blue will you plan on using?

& How  do you plan on masking Key point's,  testing with to get the desired look & texture's?                  

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2 hours ago, derex3592 said:

wow! Nice.... is that the Mobius kit? Looks huge! SSM just got a restock ....hmmm

Yes, it's the Moebius kit. It's about 16 inches long and I chopped down the top of the head to change its profile. I also used parts from a donor kit to swap out the smaller underslung flight decks for the larger ones that normally go on top. Misc details fill out the rest. I also used the Paragraphix PE set for the name badges, the ensign on the spine and the open flight decks.

It's a great model, except that the flight decks are closed and detailed with decals rather than being open and it takes a little bit of work to change that.

1 hour ago, ARK 3 said:

how many shade's OF Gray & Blue will you plan on using?

& How  do you plan on masking Key point's,  testing with to get the desired look & texture's?                  

I'm going to preshade it, then prepaint some panels dark and light before going for a lighter gray and she'll have the normal red trim. Then I'll probably hand paint the individual plates with varying shades of gray.

 

Edited by Thom
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The lower head profile is a major improvement over the original, it's now right between the Nu Galactica and the classic battlestar design.

On my Galactica, I sprayed the light grey over an overall dark base coat in an irregular, cloudy pattern, picking out single panels. Shadow areas were pre-shaded with black. This should work even better with the Pegasus' larger panels.

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11 hours ago, electric indigo said:

The lower head profile is a major improvement over the original, it's now right between the Nu Galactica and the classic battlestar design.

On my Galactica, I sprayed the light grey over an overall dark base coat in an irregular, cloudy pattern, picking out single panels. Shadow areas were pre-shaded with black. This should work even better with the Pegasus' larger panels.

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Wow, nice work! That paint looks great.

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She looks GREAT Electric Indigo!

Missile Boat is coming along slowly.  I cleaned up the stern and machined hubs to solder the prop blades (counter-rotating; soon to be made) onto.  The prop shaft is 1/16" stainless steel in the photo.  I had to make my own saw blade to get that thin of a slit cut into the hubs.  Making jigs and tooling is drawing out this build longer than expected. - MT

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