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Whats Lying on your Workbench MK IV


Urashiman

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Gonna take a stab at this P-47 as part of my training so that I don't absolutely ruin the VF-4's when they come out. Curious if anyone here has tried doing panel lining with hand brushes before?

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I hand brush my panel line washes as well. However I prefer the ProModellers Dark Dirt or Grime. It's clay based so easy clean up with water even after days of it just sitting there, provided of course you gloss coat the model first.

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Couldnt resist and bought one of these for one of the VF-1Ds on my carrier scene...

$_35.JPG

Edited by NZEOD
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Alright NZEOD, I had to do a doubletake on that one. Turns out to be true: http://www.tinfeathers.com/MilPhoto/VA25/VA25.htm

I guess this where the expression "bomb the crap out of 'em" comes from. - MT

They also dropped a Kitchen sink from a Skyraider during the Korean war.

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Gonna take a stab at this P-47 as part of my training so that I don't absolutely ruin the VF-4's when they come out. Curious if anyone here has tried doing panel lining with hand brushes before?

attachicon.gifimage.jpg

I don't know any other way of applying washes than with a brush. Glosscoat the thing with Future floor polish (if in the US) or with any other acrylic glosscoat applied with an airbrush. Then after it's dried for a good 24 hours or more, hit it with a wash along the panel lines. If you skip the glosscoat, you will end up staining the color coat, just so you know. ;)

Kenny

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If he's just talking about panel lining there's also the thin gundam panel markers or micron pens and I have also seen very thin lead pencils used. I usually do the oil paint, but I have been lazy on the real grades and used .25 micron pen just to get it done with fewer steps.

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So I paid out the ass at the Hobby Shop today for a can on Mr. Surfacer 1000 as they were out of Tamiya Fine Surface Primer in white, I've never tried it, so I thought why not...But at $15 for a can, :blink: I don't know...can anyone tell me what's supposed to be so great about this stuff and the proper way to use it? I also bought some white Tamiya liquid surface primer to try and airbrush it, we'll see how that goes. :mellow:

Edit -- This hobby is getting to damn expensive. Fact.

Edited by derex3592
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Mr surfacer bites really well into plastic like styrene and is very smooth. It also grabs lacquer paint really well. There are cheaper lacquer alternatives for primer, but sometimes mr surfacer can be found much cheaper. I usually don't use enamel or acrylics because they tend to rub off easy or with the primers can have an odd surface. Be careful if you paint abs plastic with lacquer primer. Bandai has warnings about it with some kits.

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The lacquer primers I've used are also good for moving parts and resist scratching because of how it sticks and how thin it is, just give it time to dry. It will be dry to touch in only a couple of minutes, but a day or two can give it more of a safe zone for handling. When using lacquer paints over the primer it sticks great, but if you like a chipped look you can use acrylics or enamels that don't stick the same chip the areas then top coat actually seems to help especially with acrylics from my experience.

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Looks like she's coming along nicely Rock.

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Ohh no...it's very glossy! It's just in the shade inside the garage!

Good old spray cans. I'm trying to migrate to airbrush, but can't beat cans for consistency.

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Gloss is still a bit touchy for me as well with the airbrush, but the Mr Color lacquers with their leveling thinner and the paint thinned pretty heavy really went on well for me recently - super glossy finish. Going to see if I can replicate on a second Wave 1/100 VF-1A this time the jet version...

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Fairly proud of how good this part turned out, primed with white, painted with Tamiya Pure White, then used Xigfrid's excellent vinyl mask included with the ghost and then airbrushed the dark red that I used for the baby crabs. Remove the mask and BAM!

post-11393-0-89065000-1466989127_thumb.jpg

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