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Bandai DX Chogokin YF-29 Durandal Valkyrie


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It's hard but it's also brittle and it seems to have a nasty tendency to diminish in volume, create self loosening joints.

Well, I haven’t had any of those problems so far, but don’t call me lucky for I don’t really like the toy anyway. I hope it gets a little better after my modifications.

And I’d prefer to have my Bandais in a mate finish to match my Yamatos.

Was this plastic used in the production of the VF-27?

I don’t know actually, the VF-27 does look better but it’s hard to say.

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I haven't noticed any diminishing in volume plastic on my DX toys. I think someone would have to do a bit more research before deducing the plastic is changing size... seems like there are more likely problems like flash on some peoples toys joints helped make those joints stiff and once the flash wore off the joint was left loose.

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The chaps at Cybergundam scanned this from Hobby Japan...

20110324023010969.th.jpg

Source: Cybergundam

Looking damn good, is that micro missiles on the lower legs or just air brakes with internals?

I don't think this model needs a super pack, looks like YF-21 to VF-22 evolution, integration of super pack into the mainframe. At least the awful dual cannon from the Tornado pack got smaller and looks way much better here.

This is probably one of the best looking Valks in battroid that I've seen in a long time. It just looks wicked. I'm still a bit concerned about the super glossy plastic, which makes the damn paint chip, and the loosening diecast, but I'm hoping for good things out of this.

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im about to pre-order my yf-29 from AmiAmi. I have never used them before but i know quite a few people here have. Are they good people to do business with? Any thing major to look out for?

thanks in advance...

IMHO HLJ and AmiAmi are probably two best Macross e-tailers around. No worries.

Just make sure that you don't cancel preorders too often.

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im about to pre-order my yf-29 from AmiAmi. I have never used them before but i know quite a few people here have. Are they good people to do business with? Any thing major to look out for?

thanks in advance...

I've used ami-ami a lot, from pre-orders to regular purchase. Always good communication, prompt shipping and competitive prices. Their only fault is that they like to use over sized boxes.

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I haven't noticed any diminishing in volume plastic on my DX toys. I think someone would have to do a bit more research before deducing the plastic is changing size... seems like there are more likely problems like flash on some peoples toys joints helped make those joints stiff and once the flash wore off the joint was left loose.

There's no other way that a joint that hasn't been used in months to suddenly become loose than the plastic itself is changing. Considering it's been happening to all 3 of my DX which are different versions bought months apart from each other, and that the same thing is happening to other members here tells me that it's a problem with the plastic itself and not "flashing"

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Pic in new issue of Dengeki Hobby shows rear landing gear. Looks long :)

But, new CG pics show that wing tips fold in battroid mode in the anime, but not apparently on the DX, unless mistransformed. But no wingtip hinges visible in DX photos.

Graham

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Considering how popular the toy is there aren't nearly enough complaints to indict the plastic.

I don't see how popularity of the toy has anything to do with the quality of the plastic. The v2 1/60 sold well and they were breaking as well. Just flip through there's plenty of people complaining that their DXs have magically become loose over time.

And if it is become of flashing? Then the design still sucks because then what you're telling me is the only way that my two 27s and 1 25 could hold their own gunpod up was because of shoddy quality control and workers not properly cleaning off flashing on key joints... flashing that magically went away by itself after a couple months of sitting around and not doing anything. :rolleyes:

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Well, let's just assume that magically shrinking plastic is a reasonable hypothesis; would you think that all plastic would magically shrink? Why would your plastic magically shrink but not mine? I'm not discounting that there are problems with the DX toys... I just think jumping to the conclusion that the plastic is shrinking seems like a big jump.

Going to the Yamato V2 example. The shoulders on my V2 toy cracked. The shoulders on other V2 toys also cracked. People don't say "Don't buy V2 valks because the plastic is incredibly fragile." No, the more common theory is that it has something to do with the metal rod used in production. Maybe on the DX toys there's some other variable beside the plastic that causes some joints to fail. I don't think you've done enough research to deduce that it must be shrinking plastic that caused your toys to get floppy.

Edited by jenius
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Well, let's just assume that magically shrinking plastic is a reasonable hypothesis; would you think that all plastic would magically shrink? Why would your plastic magically shrink but not mine? I'm not discounting that there are problems with the DX toys... I just think jumping to the conclusion that the plastic is shrinking seems like a big jump.

Going to the Yamato V2 example. The shoulders on my V2 toy cracked. The shoulders on other V2 toys also cracked. People don't say "Don't buy V2 valks because the plastic is incredibly fragile." No, the more common theory is that it has something to do with the metal rod used in production. Maybe on the DX toys there's some other variable beside the plastic that causes some joints to fail. I don't think you've done enough research to deduce that it must be shrinking plastic that caused your toys to get floppy.

Whatever the reason may be for the loosening joints it does happen. My guess is it might have something to do with the rubber pieces they have in the ball joint areas possibly drying out or degrading quickly within a short time.

The ball joint and thigh areas are made entirely of metal (unless I'm misremembering) except for the hard rubber insert, but also exhibit this problem. My VF-25G stayed in battroid mode for months untouched since virtually the day I got it, stored away in my display cabinet. Then one day I decided to rearrange my display and transform the 25G to fighter mode, so I picked it up and the legs just flopped around loosely. My VF-25S sat in fighter mode for months untouched, then I transformed it to battroid mode and the legs were still very tight. I left it in battroid mode for another few months before I picked it up and noticed that the legs had gotten looser. I don't know if displaying them in battroid mode causes the looseness due to some sort of stress or compacting of the rubber piece, or if it just took longer for it to happen. My VF-27 that I have in battroid mode is not as tight as it used to be, but the legs are not floppy. I have not checked the other one that I leave in fighter mode. The ball joints for the shoulders that go into the metal block with the dots on them also turn loose for the DX's. I haven't tried checking inside to see if they have the rubber pieces inside, but my guess is they do.

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Yeah, I don't care about the reason, all I know is that the loose-joint issue for the DXs is a real one, and it's the main factor in my decision against buying this new YF-29. It certainly looks pretty accurate to the cartoon, though perhaps the wings should be higher in Battroid. Either way, these toys have a two-month lifetime on average, my VF-27 is a mess, my VF-25G has been stored away for a year now, and I don't feel like gambling any more cash on them, especially since Yamato is raising their prices for stuff coming at around the same time.

In a way I'm glad that this valk personally looks quite unappealing, as I won't feel disappointed missing out on the toy that way. ^_^

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I think the looseness might have to do with deteroriorating rubber ball joint covers too. The loose joints on my ozma messiah are 1 hip joint and the shoulder joints, all on metal balls. The shoulder joints on my 1/48 VF-1S Hikaru loosened over time because the rubber covers on the shoulder joints eventually wore down to the point that barely anything was left. It literally ended up looking like rubber stains.

This is the reason I prefer universal rotation joints with ratchets over ball joints for major joints. For example, sure it's dated, but the Takatoku 1/55 shoulder design is preferable for me. Those joints stay in place just the way I like them. Canon be damned, I think the 1/48 VF-1 and DX toys would be better with those joints.

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Considering the manufacturing tolerance and plastic stressing issues the DX line seems to have in general, I wouldn't be at all surprised if the reason the joints loosen over time is because the plastic is stretching, or even splitting in ways we don't see. I mean, look at what tends to happen to the backplate on armored VF-25s. When you have evidence of engineering problems that .. well, stupid, I have no trouble believing the joints are loosening because the parts weren't made the right size in the first place. <_<

Sure you can make a joint really tight if you make the metal ball larger than the socket it's going to be put into, but over time, one of those pieces is going to have to change shape to relieve stress, and it isn't going to be the metal.

Fortunately for me, joints aren't a problem if you just leave the thing in fighter mode the whole time, which I do anyway (except for the VF-25 actually..flawed as it may be appearance-wise, I find the problems with battroid much more tolerable than the ones with fighter mode :p). I still think the wing engines look a bit ridiculous, but the fighter itself looks good enough that I want one (if only to show my monetary support for a new VF-25 based on the way the YF-29 looks).

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oh neat, look at those hinges holding the wings up in battroid, I was hoping there would be something like that this time around!

oh neat, look at those hinges holding the wings up in battroid, I was hoping there would be something like that this time around!

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My local hobby store has the -29 availble for pre-order. Super tempting, considering the fact that I'll be skipping the Fire Kai.

But comparatively speaking, how do the joints of the DX figs hold up compared to the Yamato VF's? Some of the posts I've read sound like those DX joints aren't particularly long-lasting.

I'd hate to end up with a fig that turns into an unstrung puppet after a few months of displaying.

Edited by GU-11
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My local hobby store has the -29 availble for pre-order. Super tempting, considering the fact that I'll be skipping the Fire Kai.

But comparatively speaking, how do the joints of the DX figs hold up compared to the Yamato VF's? Some of the posts I've read sound like those DX joints aren't particularly long-lasting.

I'd hate to end up with a fig that turns into an unstrung puppet after a few months of displaying.

Going to compare to the V2 1/60 yamato VF-1 because that's the most prevalent, recent release. The hinge joints on the DX VF-25's are okay, the ball jointed shoulders and hips are prone to looseness over time. To some extent, same goes for the wrists. The shoulders on the VF-1 and hips don't feel like they will loosen much over time, unlike the DX's and 1/48 VF-1. I've handled my V2's often and unlike most previous yamato releases, even after constant handling they don't feel like they will feel like "broken in" toys.

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My local hobby store has the -29 availble for pre-order. Super tempting, considering the fact that I'll be skipping the Fire Kai.

But comparatively speaking, how do the joints of the DX figs hold up compared to the Yamato VF's? Some of the posts I've read sound like those DX joints aren't particularly long-lasting.

I'd hate to end up with a fig that turns into an unstrung puppet after a few months of displaying.

All the metal/plastic/metal joints on all three of my DXs have gone to crap. The 25 is particularly bad in that the "collar bone" hinges can no longer stay in place on their own so the whole arm slumps down, the hips are shot and the legs will dangle freely. The 27 is a little bit better because there's a notch on the shoulder assembly but metal joints themselves are just as loose.

Elbows and wrists are loose as well.. basically any joint that is a friction joint has issues.

In comparison, the yammies I own that started off loose like the first release 1/60 yf-19 and SV-51 remain loose and those that started off with tight joints, like the v2 1/60 vf-1, remain tight.

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Going to compare to the V2 1/60 yamato VF-1 because that's the most prevalent, recent release. The hinge joints on the DX VF-25's are okay, the ball jointed shoulders and hips are prone to looseness over time. To some extent, same goes for the wrists. The shoulders on the VF-1 and hips don't feel like they will loosen much over time, unlike the DX's and 1/48 VF-1. I've handled my V2's often and unlike most previous yamato releases, even after constant handling they don't feel like they will feel like "broken in" toys.

Thanks for the heads-up. I guess that means I'll be waiting for Yamato to eventually come up with its own MF Valks. While I like the designs of the VF-27/27/29, I just can't bring myself to buy those DX's if they're not going to last.

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Thanks for the heads-up. I guess that means I'll be waiting for Yamato to eventually come up with its own MF Valks. While I like the designs of the VF-27/27/29, I just can't bring myself to buy those DX's if they're not going to last.

But at this rate, Yamato's -29 will cost double or more the ~12k yen the DX preorder is going for now. :lol: On a serious note hopefully the design team incorporates lessons learned on the -25/27.

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All the metal/plastic/metal joints on all three of my DXs have gone to crap. The 25 is particularly bad in that the "collar bone" hinges can no longer stay in place on their own so the whole arm slumps down, the hips are shot and the legs will dangle freely. The 27 is a little bit better because there's a notch on the shoulder assembly but metal joints themselves are just as loose.

Elbows and wrists are loose as well.. basically any joint that is a friction joint has issues.

In comparison, the yammies I own that started off loose like the first release 1/60 yf-19 and SV-51 remain loose and those that started off with tight joints, like the v2 1/60 vf-1, remain tight.

Damn, those DX joints sound nasty. I'm the kind that likes to display my VF's in all three modes and in different poses, so having to keep a Valk in only one mode all the time, especially for such a high-priced item, is out of the question.

Rather save up and wait for those Yamato version MF VF's in the distant, possible, might-happen-might-not, future.

But at this rate, Yamato's -29 will cost double or more the ~12k yen the DX preorder is going for now. :lol: On a serious note hopefully the design team incorporates lessons learned on the -25/27.

Agreed. DX and Yamato Valks aren't exactly cheap, and you can't just ignore some the faults and just enjoy the figure, like a 12 dollar deluxe class Transformer.

Edited by GU-11
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Has anyone tried the "superglue friction joint fix" on their DX toys?

Dunno if it'll work on DX toys but the superglue trick seems to work on friction joint looseness on many other toys.

Pretty sure it's been done already. I used a little sglue on one of the shoulders for my VF-27 (on the metal ball) and it's holding up pretty well.

EDIT***

But yea... the YF-29 is looking pretty sweet! :D

Edited by PsYcHoDyNaMiX
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