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The ones I got are a polymer type eraser. I'm not sure how it will work out, but I will clear coat an old 1/72 macross plus toy and test it on that for a few weeks before I try it on something I actually care about.

Actually, if you happen to have one of the VF-1 v2 kits handy, cut some spare sprue loose, and rubber band one of the erasers to it. Should provide a nice test to see if the plastic can react with them

Granted, it might take a long time. I don't know how long my ruler had that eraser on it before I noticed it had melted into it.

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Alright, so the eraser caps I ordered arrived today.

I ordered a couple packs of these from Amazon:

post-10222-0-47345000-1352411715_thumb.jpg

It says it's pvc and latex free if that matters any. As it shows, it has 10 erasers so that's enough for 3 stands and 1 mistake.

I popped one onto the stand to test the fit. It wasn't snug, but there wasn't a hug gap either. It should work in most cases.

I went about modifying them by cutting the tip and rubbed the corners on a piece of paper to round them out.

On one of the tips, I put plastic wrap over it and tucked it into the hole and pushed it onto the rod. This made the eraser much more snug.

post-10222-0-56842700-1352411713_thumb.jpg

What I am going to test:

I was originally going to clearcoat a toy and see if the eraser would react with it, but I felt that it would be more meaningful to a greater number of people if I just had it touching bare plastic and paint.

I will use two stands for this test.

post-10222-0-58649800-1352411714_thumb.jpg

One will hold a Bandai toy. The other will hold a Yamato toy.

The Bandai test will be on the stand with all tips uncovered. At least one tip will be on bare plastic and at least one will be on a painted surface.

The Yamato test will be on the stand with 2 tips uncovered and 1 tip with the plastic wrap. I want to see in the case where the erasers don't end up eatting through paint or plastic, if the plastic wrap itself might stick to the paint and not because of chemicals seeping through the original silicone tips. So this stand will have one uncovered tip on bare plastic, one uncovered tip on paint, and one covered tip on paint.

Here are the two victi...err... volunteers.

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I'll put them on the stands and leave them for three weeks to see if there's even the slightest hint of smudging on the paint or plastic.

I'll report back here in a few weeks and let everyone know if all this nipping of tips, and rubbing and finishing off will result in a happy ending. ;)

Edited by MacrossJunkie
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  • 2 months later...

Just a word of cation on erasers. I accidentally left a painted Gundam model standing on one of those white block erasers for several days and it melted through the paint all the way to bare plastic (future floor polish clear coat, 1 lacquer color layer and 2 lacquer primer layers).

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I'm trying a hot glue method to create the grip points on the stands for my 1/60 VF-1A Angel Birds. I'm not sure of how it will effect the paint yet as it has only been a few days, and I have been checking how stuck the valk gets each day.

post-7871-0-98539000-1358992460_thumb.jpgpost-7871-0-70234200-1358992465_thumb.jpg

post-7871-0-91100200-1358992469_thumb.jpg

I'm using 3x Hasegawa robot stands with just the initial rod, and a small amount of hot glue around the ball joint. I let the hot glue cool completely and also rubbed the tips to create a bit of grip (they're quite slick after completely cooling).

So far so good, but I'll need to give it more time to see the effects on the paint.

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Am I the only one that was crazy and always bought tons of 1/48's from Lost and Found toys just for the free black-tipped stands back in the day? :0

I got a bunch too.

Oh yeah. I forgot about this. In my experiment, the erasers did nothing to the 1/72 YF-21 plastic or paint, but it ate away at the white paint on the v.1 VF-25G, but did nothing to the plastic.

Yeesh. I guess rubber is no good for these. Good luck with the hot glue.
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Heh.. here's a funny idea. Has anyone tried some of those little foam covers a lot of earbud headphones come with? They might not be very good at gripping things, but they're plenty soft.

I'm starting to think fabric covered tips might be the best option to keep from damaging anything.

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I'm trying a hot glue method to create the grip points on the stands for my 1/60 VF-1A Angel Birds. I'm not sure of how it will effect the paint yet as it has only been a few days, and I have been checking how stuck the valk gets each day.

post-7871-0-98539000-1358992460_thumb.jpgpost-7871-0-70234200-1358992465_thumb.jpg

post-7871-0-91100200-1358992469_thumb.jpg

I'm using 3x Hasegawa robot stands with just the initial rod, and a small amount of hot glue around the ball joint. I let the hot glue cool completely and also rubbed the tips to create a bit of grip (they're quite slick after completely cooling).

So far so good, but I'll need to give it more time to see the effects on the paint.

You might want to wait for longer periods of time instead of checking daily. Perhaps a couple weeks to see if the tips end up bonding to the painted surfaces.

I may try coating the stand's tips themselves with a thick coat of future and putting stuff on it to see if it would actually completely eat its way through.,

Edited by MacrossJunkie
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Update: I've given up the idea of using hot glue. Little too risky considering it would probably leak the same kind of paint eating chemicals as the clear rubber grips on the Flight Pose stands. Have opted for the Bandai Action Stand 1 instead.

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I'm pretty hesitant to use anything like that, because again it's all still chemicals- I don't see why it wouldn't still eat into paint over time... I know people use that to affix their valks here and haven't had trouble with it, but it still seems too risky to me. IDK.

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I've had a Uni5 Gatchaman Godphoenix on display on one of these FlightPose stands for years. The rubber tips touch paint that's on diecast metal. I've had no reactions whatsoever.

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For those who pm'ed me about the stands. I have both black and white rubber tips in different sizes. Trying to gauge whats a fair price for them and sizes. They won't have their original boxes but they are clean =)

I will get back to you guys as soon as I get them inspected and organized.

Edited by Kicker773
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man this issue is so confusing to me. I don't have the chemistry background to understand it. Has anyone tried "natural rubber"? i know most erasers these days are made of pvc though much like some synthetic rubber...wonder if that is the issue.

i also wonder if something like this http://www.ventingpipe.com/hy-c-se-1-100-natural-rubber-soot-eraser/p1512729?source=gg-gba-pla_1512729____20457938222&s_kwcid=PTC!pla!!!39887886662!g!!20457938222&cagpspn=pla&gclid=CI7YvsL7krUCFQ-e4AodBhAAbw

cut int the right shape would work.

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