VFTF1 Posted September 19, 2009 Share Posted September 19, 2009 I have just begun building my 1/72 Alto, and am going to be applying the Sheryl Nome waterslide decals part-by-part as I proceed. I have previously built a 1/72 Ozma, so I have the model kit pretty well figured out in terms of what goes where. I decided to apply the decals bit by bit because I fear that the finished fighter would be too delicate to get a good grip on as the decals are applied. Please note that I am a modeling noobie (relatively speaking) who is gloating. This is my FIRST EVER attempt at applying water slide decals. I read a 4 step guide that I got off of google, and away I go! This Alto comes with the Super Pack - and I will have to decide whether to build and add that or not? In any event - I have read that one ought not transform a Sheryled out Alto because the decals are even less stable than usual? Does this mean I should pretty much be prepared to build him in fighter mode and leave it that way? Any tips or advise from people who have applied their Sheryl Decals? Here's what I've got so far: I realize that they ought to be a bit lower - but keep in mind I was more concerned that the thing would melt in the water or fly apart or that bubbles would be left underneath or that some other terrible event would destroy everything... so I was just happy to get them on there. And it is so wierd that you do in deed need a paint brush to fasten them on in the final stage... I wonder what it is about a paint brush that fastens them, while cue-tips only move the entire thing around? Is it that the paint brush dries them and that fastens them? Impressive stuff this! Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SchizophrenicMC Posted September 19, 2009 Share Posted September 19, 2009 And it is so wierd that you do in deed need a paint brush to fasten them on in the final stage... I wonder what it is about a paint brush that fastens them, while cue-tips only move the entire thing around? Is it that the paint brush dries them and that fastens them? Impressive stuff this! Pete Strange. I've not once used a paintbrush when applying waterslides. Always used tweezers to set them down and tapped them lightly with a q-tip to absorb excess water. As long as you don't move the q-tip on any axis but straight down, you should be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VFTF1 Posted September 20, 2009 Author Share Posted September 20, 2009 Yeah, I use tweezers to set them down too, but the cue-tips don't work for me in terms of of actually applying them.... I guess I'll try the "straight down" approach... but the paint brush is really simpler. You just well...you know...umm...stroke the brush...and bingo - it's down. No problem at all. Anyways - obviously I've still go a way to go. I'll post my progress as it is made (after all, this is supposed to be an epic journey) I'll try the cue-tip method again. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ghadrack Posted September 22, 2009 Share Posted September 22, 2009 (edited) Like the cotton in the Q-tip the brush can aid in capillary action drawing the water out from underneath the waterslide which sets it down on the model and not on a cushion of water which is why it still slides around before you draw the water out from under it. The brush also puts a little pressure on top of the decal expelling the water you are drawing away with the brush stroke. a damp/wet Q-tip flat on top of the decal won't do anything but push it around, a dry Q-tip at the edge of the decal will draw the water out and set the decal in place. Edited September 22, 2009 by Ghadrack Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SchizophrenicMC Posted September 23, 2009 Share Posted September 23, 2009 Like the cotton in the Q-tip the brush can aid in capillary action drawing the water out from underneath the waterslide which sets it down on the model and not on a cushion of water which is why it still slides around before you draw the water out from under it. The brush also puts a little pressure on top of the decal expelling the water you are drawing away with the brush stroke. a damp/wet Q-tip flat on top of the decal won't do anything but push it around, a dry Q-tip at the edge of the decal will draw the water out and set the decal in place. ^ | Which is exactly why I always have a box of Q-tips when I decal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VFTF1 Posted October 2, 2009 Author Share Posted October 2, 2009 Well...moving along... Got the head done today, and the nose. Not much by way of Sheryl decals going on today - just the one on the head, which was a pain in the ass. I'm still new at this. In fact, if anything, what has been a challenge has been panel lining. I've decided that pencil is too light, and now I'm wondering whether permanent marker is not too dark... grumble grumble. It's not easy... But whatever...it can't be helped. I just hope it looks good when finished. There are places where I totally screwed up the panel lining IMO, like under the nosecone - sort of. I was considering "weathering" these areas to fix to screw up - giving it some wear and tear so to speak. So it doesn't look so..well...BRIGHT!... So now the question arises...what do I use for weathering effect? But maybe I'll do that at the very end when the whole thing is built. For now I'm fighting that feeling you get when you start with tan initial premise and want to change along the way. I wanted this thing to stay in fighter mode - I've heard that the decals don't like being transformed...although I figure there are ways to get around that. I mean Ozma's big "skull" on his back didn't take kindly to wings folding for transformation either and needed to be cut where the wings folded so as not to ruin the decal. I can make precion slices in Sheryl's decals too to incorporate the transformation...er..."precision" being taken with a grain of sault given my poor skills Anyways... I hate building the head because then I start thinking "dag - this guy will look great in battroid mode" ... but really - the Sheryl Decals don't display well at all in battroid mode. On a final note... I know the sheryl decals are for 1/72 scale, but if you put the VF-25S model next to a 1/60 Yammie...they look "the same size"... I have a spare set of Sheryl decals and I've been thinking about using them on a Yamato... Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SchizophrenicMC Posted October 2, 2009 Share Posted October 2, 2009 They're the same size, coincidentally. The size matches the scale, about, but VF-1s are much smaller than VF-25s. Anyway, I'd suggest you just buy a good Gundam Marker - they're like $2.50 US - and panel line with that. The results will be much cleaner and look better. That panel line you have right now looks like crap, to be honest. Get some alcohol and wash that out. As for cutting decals for transformation, I can't help you with that unless I get my hands on it. My advice is to stick it down in Fighter, and use an X-Acto knife to cut it where there are places the fuselage splits. On that note, before transforming it, give it a nice coat of clear coat to seal it against wearing the decals. Don't weather the nosecone just yet. Wait until the thing is done. If it looks too bright then, and doesn't complement the rest of the valkyrie, wash it with some grey or something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreatMoose Posted October 21, 2009 Share Posted October 21, 2009 Are those decals available seperately or are they part of a kit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VFTF1 Posted October 31, 2009 Author Share Posted October 31, 2009 The Sheryl Nome decals were available seperately and actually they were - as far as I know - exclussives that were available free from Bandai for a limited time and can't be gotten easily... which is why I am a very sad body right now given I have lost/can't find parts B1, J8 and i-5 :( :( Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SchizophrenicMC Posted November 3, 2009 Share Posted November 3, 2009 Oh, dear. If you can't find them, you may have to order a whole new kit to make your valk. Ouch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hingtgen Posted November 5, 2009 Share Posted November 5, 2009 You can order parts straight from HLJ. Will have to order the entire sprue, but I'm sure even with shipping it'll still be a lot cheaper than a whole 'nother kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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