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Official Bandai 1/60 Scale DX Toy Thread Ver.6


Duke Togo
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I PM'ed Graham recently how lucky he is to live in HK and be able to visit local shops and get the lowest price possible for his valkyries, not to mention store discounts like we see on HLJ, etc. Everyone else has to pay shipping, higher internet prices, and sometimes customs. Just last month I lost almost $1,000 in customs/shipping costs, but if I lived in HK that money could have been used to buy another (10) valkyries. :wacko: The bad thing about HK is the tiny apartments and overcrowding. :ph34r:

Sincerely,

Christopher B))

(Edited to fix country)

I lived in hong kong a couple of years ago. That's what got me back into macross. In retrospect I would have bought a LOT more. I picked up my revys in a shop for $10 (canadian each) and I got my 1/48 CF for $80.

I can't wait to go back!!!

BTW, does anyone have any great pics of their light blue movie Alto? Is it blue in the movie?

Edited by pondo
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yeah, the front toe articulation is probably the most underwhelming part of the toy, if you fiddle with the ball joint in the ankle you can get a bit more forward movement in the whole foot. the best way is to just angle the leg using the thigh swivel so that you're getting both forward and sideways lean on the ankle, as there's plenty of side to side movement.

Anyways, I really love this toy but it makes all the problems with the VF-25 that much worse. I actually want a VF-25 to go with my -27 now but not one that's such a downgrade.

As for the green VF-27, I'm holding out hope that after the strait repaint web exclusive they'll also do a beta version with the fin-less head from the model kit and new pilot sculpts

Yeah I started transforming them and posing them side by side and all I could say to myself why couldn't the 25's have been like this? It's a much better toy/collectible...... it's just to bad they dropped the ball on the paint again! Is it me or is the paint job on these actually worse than on the 25s or does it just stand out worse because of the colors used?

I'd buy the green if it came out (as a non-web exclusive) but it would have to have a more resilient paint job. I love posing my toys and it frustrates me how much I am scratching the VF-27 up. If I gave this to a kid I imagine it would be an ungodly mess of scratches and chips in a couple of weeks.

Edited by logos
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Yeah I started transforming them and posing them side by side and all I could say to myself why couldn't the 25's have been like this? It's a much better toy/collectible...... it's just to bad they dropped the ball on the paint again! Is it me or is the paint job on these actually worse than on the 25s or does it just stand out worse because of the colors used?

I'd buy the green if it came out (as a non-web exclusive) but it would have to have a more resilient paint job. I love posing my toys and it frustrates me how much I am scratching the VF-27 up. If I gave this to a kid I imagine it would be an ungodly mess of scratches and chips in a couple of weeks.

I fell victim to the paint chip... FUDGE!!!! Im gonna take the mixture of this lilac color from the 1/72 manual and try to match it to just dab it on there. It could've been worse, anyone have any idea on how to get the nose cone off in case i need to repaint the whole thing.

DSC06208.jpg

Edited by anubis20
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UGH! Still not as bad as the jaggy I have running down the front nose cone......

IMG_0249.jpg

Edited by logos
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An added benefit of doing a clear coat was that it makes all those out of the box scratches, scuffs and swirls in the plastic invisible. Also, it makes the surface sheen fairly uniform where before there was a very noticable difference between the painted die cast and the different plastics they used. Some of the plastic parts looked quite dull, not very glossy at all.

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An added benefit of doing a clear coat was that it makes all those out of the box scratches, scuffs and swirls in the plastic invisible. Also, it makes the surface sheen fairly uniform where before there was a very noticable difference between the painted die cast and the different plastics they used. Some of the plastic parts looked quite dull, not very glossy at all.

Let's say we have an untouched , never transformed VF-27 without scratches... :)

Does the clear coat prevent from scratching while transforming? (Especially nose and shoulder areas)

Edited by charger69
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UGH! Still not as bad as the jaggy I have running down the front nose cone......

IMG_0249.jpg

after a dozen transformations Mine is still fresh-out-of-box pristine ^_^

also, how many people actually use the intake covers this came with? Personally I think they kind of look like little deformed kidney beans.

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So the paint chip on my 27 had me really bummed, since I saw that paint chip i threw it in the box and off to the closet it went. I cant stand looking at the damn chip, it was small but it was obvious. So it was either send it back to AmiAmi or fix it. I decided to try it out and go for the fix. I knew that it wasnt going to be a 100% match but if I got it close enough new life would breathe into this valk, yes it was a tiny chip but im anal about it.

So I needed a lilac (thats what Graham called it) color, from my gundam building days I knew that in order to get that color I had mix some colors but not the obvious white and purple. I started out with wine red and white which gave me pink, duh. I added a little sky blue to the mix and the light purple started coming up. After that it was just a matter of lightening tit with some white until I got lilac or close to it.

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Now you see it!!

DSC06208.jpg

Now you 90% dont

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DSC06877.jpg

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they're doing something wrong, nothing touches that part of the valk during transformation.

No like a said before I, somewhat lightly, brushed the end of my fingernail down it while I was turning the toy over. I was shocked when I actually heard a tearing sound when my nail rubbed against it. That was the first scratch. The second was because I was so shocked it had to test it out (I had the first scratch already so I didn't really care if I made a second). It doesn't take allot of pressure for it to happen. I can do the exact same thing on my VF-25 and nothing happens. In fact I can try to dig my nail in a bit on the VF-25's black detail on the front of the nose and nothing happens.

EDIT:

Note: The toy can rub on the nose section if you are not careful during the transformation when you are sliding the upper body over the nose cone. You have to actually swing the upper chest section further ahead than it is supposed to be and then rotate it downwards though. It shouldn't get in this position though so I wouldn't be concerned about it. The only other way that I could see that it would scratch is if you where being a bit forceful when trying to slip the upper chest over the nose cone.

Frankly I think the paint on the nose is fragile enough that eventually most people are going to end up with a chip or scratch just buy handling the toy. Some of the toys might be better but on mine it's barely on there.

Edited by logos
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No like a said before I, somewhat lightly, brushed the end of my fingernail down it while I was turning the toy over. I was shocked when I actually heard a tearing sound when my nail rubbed against it. That was the first scratch. The second was because I was so shocked it had to test it out (I had the first scratch already so I didn't really care if I made a second). It doesn't take allot of pressure for it to happen. I can do the exact same thing on my VF-25 and nothing happens. In fact I can try to dig my nail in a bit on the VF-25's black detail on the front of the nose and nothing happens.

The toy can rub on the nose section if you are not careful during the transformation when you are sliding the upper body over the nose cone. You have to actually swing the upper chest section further ahead than it is supposed to be and then rotate it downwards though.

Sorry, my bad. If your copy has bad paint adherence, that's another thing entirely.

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Unless you mean the wings are curled up (stupid molding flaw they have no excuse for by now), yep, the shoulders are too wide to fit in the space between the thighs.

It's easy to fix technically.. you just have to unscrew the arms and take them off. Then the wings sit perfectly level. :lol:

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Unless you mean the wings are curled up (stupid molding flaw they have no excuse for by now), yep, the shoulders are too wide to fit in the space between the thighs.

It's easy to fix technically.. you just have to unscrew the arms and take them off. Then the wings sit perfectly level. :lol:

the curl on the wings is just a molding flaw? I can't believe that. It's pretty darn fluid.

Anyway, I've got all the armor on and I think it's a pretty sweet toy. I haven't transformed it yet, but I'll get around to it. I don't mind the light blue scheme of the valk, but I'm not a fan of the purple armor.

Is it better than my yamato broken shoulder edition Roy? Good question.

Anyway, for the price, it's a great purchase.

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I got my DX 27 and overall I'm happy with it. A couple paint chips on the shoulders nothing too bad. However, I found some nasty slop on the leg. Anyone know of a paint remover that isn't harmful to plastic and where I can pick it up from?

post-5389-1267586304_thumb.jpg

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I got my DX 27 and overall I'm happy with it. A couple paint chips on the shoulders nothing too bad. However, I found some nasty slop on the leg. Anyone know of a paint remover that isn't harmful to plastic and where I can pick it up from?

you might want to just try scraping it with your finger nail.

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