Ignacio Ocamica Posted June 20, 2009 Share Posted June 20, 2009 Thanks for the reply John!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guncross2 Posted June 20, 2009 Share Posted June 20, 2009 LOL I was going to ask "Where s the seat?" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gabe Q Posted June 20, 2009 Share Posted June 20, 2009 I never would have noticed that half the pilot was scraped off. I was sittin there staring at that picture for like 10 minutes! Oh well... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jadefalconguard Posted June 20, 2009 Share Posted June 20, 2009 I see it, but I can't believe it...beautifull update Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kremmen Posted June 20, 2009 Share Posted June 20, 2009 (edited) Am I the only one who checks the model section with a little fear because it's been a few days, given his track record of insanely awesome fast work, seeing a post from the captain that looks something like: [image picture of awesome] Send money, kthxbye Nope, that'd be my fear too, except it already happened to me and I did miss out on this one, unless John's moulds hold up for an extended run. :( My answer for the pop quiz was going to be that the chin gun ball mounts are phonies! And that the cockpit is insanely cramped, as always with SF stuff (I swear, the Ministry of Crap Design MUST have a hand in this - EVERY fighter-sized cockpit in the whole of SF ignores basic ergonomics). So I guess I was on the right trail. Edit: forgot to ask - John, how does the Bondo compare to the Renshape in density? The stuff I'm using, I have to use a water-based acrylic putty cut with microballoons to get the density down a bit to match. I'm guessing with your stuff it must be the other way around? Also, my god, gorgeous, whole new standards being set, yadda yadda yadda... Edited June 20, 2009 by Kremmen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wasp Posted June 20, 2009 Share Posted June 20, 2009 This looks fantastic. I wish I would have had the money to jump in on this. If you ever decide to make another mold or somehow do more runs of all your destroids and this, you could probably make a killing offering them to Battletech fans. When I think of it, especially this. Keep up the fantastic work and the in progress reports. Wasp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captain america Posted June 20, 2009 Author Share Posted June 20, 2009 Edit: forgot to ask - John, how does the Bondo compare to the Renshape in density? The stuff I'm using, I have to use a water-based acrylic putty cut with microballoons to get the density down a bit to match. I'm guessing with your stuff it must be the other way around? It's a bit difficult to compare Bondo and Renshape: the latter is more brittle and stable to carve, whereas the former, even when fully cured, remains a tad rubbery, but still sands very well and bonds splendidly. To be honest, I only use the Bondo because it's relatively inexpensive, easy to find and cures fast. The downside, like with any polyester putty, is that the odor is about as subtle as a punch in the face. This microballoon-filled, water-based acrylic putty intrigues me. Can you tell me more about it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kremmen Posted June 20, 2009 Share Posted June 20, 2009 It's a bit difficult to compare Bondo and Renshape: the latter is more brittle and stable to carve, whereas the former, even when fully cured, remains a tad rubbery, but still sands very well and bonds splendidly. To be honest, I only use the Bondo because it's relatively inexpensive, easy to find and cures fast. The downside, like with any polyester putty, is that the odor is about as subtle as a punch in the face. This microballoon-filled, water-based acrylic putty intrigues me. Can you tell me more about it? That's interesting. The local PE car body putties I've used tend to set very hard, unless you screw around with the catalyst or thin it with acetone. One of the reasons I hate working with the stuff - too hard, and brittle to boot. And yeah, that toxic stench, gah!! If you're after cheap and flexible, you indeed might want to try the water based approach. Doesn't have the fast cure time of Bondo, however: you've really got to leave it overnight for a moderate thickness, and longer for substantial thicknesses. It's just your basic hardware store wood putty - the local brand is Wattyl Woodstop, but there must be North American equivalents. It doesn't come with microballoons, it's just an ordinary water-based acrylic timber putty. Hardly any stench, non-toxic, sands well, softens again with water so you can remove it easily if necessary. I mix in the waterballoons to make it a closer match for the density of my Renshape, or just to thicken it up for sculpting a fillet or whatever (it's pretty gloopy out of the can). RC aeromodellers have been using this technique forever, BTW - you actually can buy premixed "balsa putty" versions at any LHS that carries a decent RC range. Oh - same thing works well with industrial epoxy putties if you want to bulk them out and reduce their hardness a bit. Far cheaper than Milliput, and not much less fine. Certainly not as nice as Aves, admittedly. Cheers, Martyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahiachris Posted June 21, 2009 Share Posted June 21, 2009 I mix in the waterballoons to make it a closer match for the density of my Renshape, or just to thicken it up for sculpting a fillet or whatever (it's pretty gloopy out of the can). RC aeromodellers have been using this technique forever, BTW - you actually can buy premixed "balsa putty" versions at any LHS that carries a decent RC range. Oh - same thing works well with industrial epoxy putties if you want to bulk them out and reduce their hardness a bit. Far cheaper than Milliput, and not much less fine. Certainly not as nice as Aves, admittedly. Cheers, Martyn When I was talking with the supplier of Renshape here in HK he introduced an epoxy type of Renshape to me. Have you guy tried it before? They came in big cans. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MechTech Posted June 21, 2009 Share Posted June 21, 2009 The model is looking great John. With all those interior shots, I'm expecting to see/hear: "And here you can see the custom upholstery with 1000 Watt sound system. The 15" sub-woofers are co-located with the booster motors." You just need some fuzzy dice to go in the cockpit too . Seriously, awesome work on the model! Thanks for the posts and answering everyone's questions too!- MT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kremmen Posted June 21, 2009 Share Posted June 21, 2009 Seriously, awesome work on the model! Thanks for the posts and answering everyone's questions too!- MT QFT, and seconded. It's great to have someone with such hardcore skills being so accessible. Thanks!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captain america Posted June 22, 2009 Author Share Posted June 22, 2009 The model is looking great John. With all those interior shots, I'm expecting to see/hear: "And here you can see the custom upholstery with 1000 Watt sound system. The 15" sub-woofers are co-located with the booster motors." You just need some fuzzy dice to go in the cockpit too . Seriously, awesome work on the model! Thanks for the posts and answering everyone's questions too!- MT Actually, you may notice in some cockpit pics that there are two round "portals" hidden by the pod engines/thrusters that lead right into the cockpit. This was done intentionally so that if one wishes to light the engines, the same lighting source can be routed through those portals into the cockpit. Fuzzy dice are optional Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
promethuem5 Posted June 22, 2009 Share Posted June 22, 2009 Unbelievable! Always great to see a new Mostacat buildup. You're gonna make me regret not getting in on this, but I just don't have the space... I've got the WF recast Glaug kit, which is decent looking, if undersized, but even that takes up a ton of space on my crowded college-student-living-at-home-still shelves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big F Posted June 22, 2009 Share Posted June 22, 2009 Looking dam fine so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MechTech Posted June 23, 2009 Share Posted June 23, 2009 Aoshima will be releasing Graug fuzzy dice last quarter of 09. Nice forthought for the modders with the cockpit! - MT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cowie165 Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 Aoshima will be releasing Graug fuzzy dice last quarter of 09. Nice forthought for the modders with the cockpit! - MT lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoryHolmes Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 Video. Need... video... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captain america Posted June 30, 2009 Author Share Posted June 30, 2009 Time for the latest Do-It-Yourself-Glaug build update. Things have been progressing slowly but surely, and I should be done with all the main exterior parts in a few days. Once I've got those out of the way, I'll be able to concentrate on the details and the cockpit, which should take another 1.5 weeks. Not my fastest build, but certainly my biggest and most elaborate. Pic 1: here are the foot masters, freshly re-puttied. As the putty hardens, it goes into a flexible state in which it can be easily carved, which I did. This will save me some sanding later when it's sufficiently hardened. Bear in mind that this is merely half of one foot; a whole one (when complete) will probably take as much resin as an entire Commanchero kit, and could smash a Destroid into oblivion if used as a blunt weapon. I guarantee that no one will be scoffing at these ginormous clown feet of doom! Pics 2 and 3: with the rough stuff cleared away, the foot parts are almost ready to be primed. There will be, of course, under-foot detail, which is still in the planning stages. Just like the ball part, the "toes" will be strategically hollowed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captain america Posted June 30, 2009 Author Share Posted June 30, 2009 Pics 4 and 5: here is the main arm cannon assembly, being made from mostly 2.5mm styrene sheet, and is, just like certain other parts, designed to be hollow. This part will need it more than others, due to the bulbous nature of the gun pod and the flimsy design of the upper arm. Putty and Renshape are also used in strategic areas of the masters, depending on the specific shape requirements. Strangely enough, the particle beam (cannon) emitters kinda look like speakers! Pics 6 and 7: the overall beast, looking better and better with each passing day. I'm taking my sweet time with the design of the joints, as many of these will be load bearing and the design of which is critical to keeping the kit upright and sturdy when assembled. As always, I soldier onward. Things are going a bit slowly due to the recent festivities ("Quebec" day) and soon Canada day, as well as my trying to enjoy the summer while we have it. I will also likely be starting some preliminary mold-prep by the end of next week, so as to eventually get the necessary duplicates of the many parts I need for one whole model. Hope you enjoyed my little "show-and-tell" moment, and stay tuned for the next update! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nightmareB4macross Posted June 30, 2009 Share Posted June 30, 2009 That looks incredible!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cool8or Posted June 30, 2009 Share Posted June 30, 2009 Wow!! It's really huge... I can't wait to see the next update, it will be almost done! Congratulations Cap! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big F Posted June 30, 2009 Share Posted June 30, 2009 (edited) Ahh another Capt fix. Like all good dealers just giving us enough to stay hooked. Edited June 30, 2009 by big F Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jadefalconguard Posted June 30, 2009 Share Posted June 30, 2009 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
codam23 Posted June 30, 2009 Share Posted June 30, 2009 More ... more .. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Berttt Posted June 30, 2009 Share Posted June 30, 2009 nice work dude - man that has to rival the monster in size. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miriya Posted June 30, 2009 Share Posted June 30, 2009 Beautiful work Captain. Great sculpt and clean look. I look forward to seeing what people do with their kits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vi-RS Posted June 30, 2009 Share Posted June 30, 2009 nice work, I was wondering is there any articulation that gonna be accomplished for the hip joint and elbow joints? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captain america Posted July 1, 2009 Author Share Posted July 1, 2009 nice work, I was wondering is there any articulation that gonna be accomplished for the hip joint and elbow joints? No articulation will be possible, I'm afraid, only the carefully-crafted appearance of articulation. It will be a hard-fought job just to combat the effects of gravity on a mecha design that, in and of itself, does not seem to take gravity into consideration. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cool8or Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 No articulation will be possible, I'm afraid, only the carefully-crafted appearance of articulation. It will be a hard-fought job just to combat the effects of gravity on a mecha design that, in and of itself, does not seem to take gravity into consideration. The Captain first Regult, was made articulated. But when I add the pilot, articulations could't support the weight. Finally, I had to fix all articulations, and left it in static position. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PetarB Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 Hi John - I know this isn't the most interesting subject in the world, but I'm interested in your sanding/polishing techniques. What do you use, and how? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MechTech Posted July 3, 2009 Share Posted July 3, 2009 AWESOME work as always Cap'n. Some very happy guys will be getting this in the mail one day. - MT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captain america Posted July 3, 2009 Author Share Posted July 3, 2009 Hi John - I know this isn't the most interesting subject in the world, but I'm interested in your sanding/polishing techniques. What do you use, and how? If you're asking about the sanding/polishing of the masters in genaral, it's very straightforeward. -I bring the modelling board up to a basic finish with 320 grade (3M) sandpaper--wet, then 600 grit, also wet. -Apply primer (good ol' CANADIAN TIRE rattle can primer is my tool of choice.) -Depending on the part, I may leave the primer finish as-is, or give it a go with some 1000 grit. One again, wet-sanding. That's about all there is to it. The only parts that may get more attention are the masters for clear parts, which I coat with lacquer (Tamiya spray cans work great) and then proceed to some slight buffing with some 6000 grit and then some polishing compound on an old cotton t-shirt. I'm actually sort of at this step for some parts as i type this; I always get carried away with over-designing my kits, and now I have to prep all of those 800 bazillion pieces. Yay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captain america Posted July 18, 2009 Author Share Posted July 18, 2009 Hi folks! I realize that I've not been terribly present on the forums lately, but there's a good reason for it: I've been super-detailing the Glaug, and the process has been quite long. Nevertheless, I have a whole slew of (mediocre) pictures of my progress. I would have prefered to use more grey primer, since it photographs much better than the red stuff, but the local supplier was out... Essentially, I only have the cockpit thingamabobs left to do now, which I will get onto in parallel with my mold prep for the parts that need duplicating. It would be no exaggeration to say that one set of Glaug masters takes almost as much work as three Destloids... But it's worth it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captain america Posted July 18, 2009 Author Share Posted July 18, 2009 Once again, apologies for the poor quality of the pics. I don't have good lighting at my place for pics, and the red primer just makes it that much worse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captain america Posted July 18, 2009 Author Share Posted July 18, 2009 A closer look at some of the detail bits... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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