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Yamato 1/60 VF-11B Thunderbolt - Thread 2


azrael

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No, the nub is not covered and I don't see any way to cover it with the top part. I think you'll just have to go with painting it.

Thanks, MacrossJunkie.

BTW, is it possible to "mix" colors using Gundam Markers (as in mixing ink taken from a red and yellow Gundam marker)? I don't think they sell orange Gundam markers individually, and I don't want t buy the whole marker set for just that one color, which I'll only use a drop of.

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Thanks, MacrossJunkie.

BTW, is it possible to "mix" colors using Gundam Markers (as in mixing ink taken from a red and yellow Gundam marker)? I don't think they sell orange Gundam markers individually, and I don't want t buy the whole marker set for just that one color, which I'll only use a drop of.

I think you'd be better off buying some orange paint that looks close to the orange of the heat shield.

As for gundam markers, if you're talking about the ink kind, I don't think they'd blend well. For the paint markers you could theoretically mix the paints, but I don't think it would be a good idea and it probably wouldn't turn out well. If you want to attempt it with gundam paint markers, you'll want to pre-mix the paint so you get the right shade before you actually apply it and to do that, you'll have to pull out the tip of the marker and dab some paint from the other end of the plastic insert of the paint marker on some plastic wrap or foil and mix them with a brush. Getting the right shade will likely be difficult to attain. You will likely need to throw in some white as well.

Edit: I just remembered that there was a person in this thread, Negotiator, that had the orange stripes on the leg missing and painted it himself. He mentions Cadmium orange and the result looked very close. You may want to just buy the paint and save yourself the trouble of having to mix gundam marker paints.

Edited by MacrossJunkie
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I think you'd be better off buying some orange paint that looks close to the orange of the heat shield.

As for gundam markers, if you're talking about the ink kind, I don't think they'd blend well. For the paint markers you could theoretically mix the paints, but I don't think it would be a good idea and it probably wouldn't turn out well. If you want to attempt it with gundam paint markers, you'll want to pre-mix the paint so you get the right shade before you actually apply it and to do that, you'll have to pull out the tip of the marker and dab some paint from the other end of the plastic insert of the paint marker on some plastic wrap or foil and mix them with a brush. Getting the right shade will likely be difficult to attain. You will likely need to throw in some white as well.

Edit: I just remembered that there was a person in this thread, Negotiator, that had the orange stripes on the leg missing and painted it himself. He mentions Cadmium orange and the result looked very close. You may want to just buy the paint and save yourself the trouble of having to mix gundam marker paints.

You, sir, are a life saver!

It it's at all possible, could you tell me what brand of spray/paint I can find this particular color of orange? I scoured the hardware stores in my neighborhood, going through the aisles of Krylon and Pylox, and the closest I could find (based on the color on the cap) was Tangerine and Light Scarlett from Pylox.

The hobby store's pretty far, so I'll have to make sure I can find that particular color in the form or Tamiya or GSI paints before I go there.

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You, sir, are a life saver!

It it's at all possible, could you tell me what brand of spray/paint I can find this particular color of orange? I scoured the hardware stores in my neighborhood, going through the aisles of Krylon and Pylox, and the closest I could find (based on the color on the cap) was Tangerine and Light Scarlett from Pylox.

The hobby store's pretty far, so I'll have to make sure I can find that particular color in the form or Tamiya or GSI paints before I go there.

I don't know honestly. This was the info in his post:

I'm too impatient so went to the craft store for some cheap $1 paint. Couldn't find any orange trim sticker because that would have been much better.

Luckily found this cadmium orange which looks like a pretty close match, but anyway, here's what my afternoon consisted of.

post-10971-1243309074_thumb.jpg

You could try PM'ing him for details.

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  • 1 year later...

Hi all,

Joined this party late... just got my very first VF-11B from that HLJ sale! I always wondered why it was more expensive than the other similar sized valkyries, but now I understand why - especially sweet when there was that sale on top. Has no one stickered up theirs and posted photos?

Question, I plan on trying to scrunge up enough water slide decals to do this justice (unforunately, I think I'll have to make up the NEW EDWARS T.F.C ones - is it supposed to be NEW EDWARDS - did the Japanese just mis-spelled it?)

Second question is the NO STEP stenciling, on the Yamato toy stickers, they are red like all the other VF-1 but on the Hasegawa model, they are black. Is there any "canon" on who is right?

Initial impression so far:

-great sculpt for fighter mode (also great for battroid which is rare!)

-that forward heat shield is a bitch! scratched the paint on that pull up nib - damn!

-can't get the rear landing gears out without tweezers - sits a little low or squat

-best display in-flight - wish there was a stand

-overall grey colour is a bit too dark - it should contrast against the fast packs, not to blend into them

Hmm, funny I love this toy so much, but most of the points seem negative, I think the overall shape trumps all these points!

I'll just do a quick little oil wash, a bit of weathering and sealing with water slide decals and call it a day. Might re-paint the gunpod into something more a like a military olive though.

Edited by wm cheng
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You know, I never understood the rear gear design on the VF-11.. the 1/60 I mean. You've got those tiny struts, and that big bay with two separate doors. The front gear doors do absolutely nothing, except making it look canon. You don't even need them open to lower the gear, since the pivot is completely behind that door.

You could add a good centimeter or so to those gear if you just moved the pivot forward to the front of the bay. I just never use them, so you can't see how goofy they look. :p

As for the NO STEP bits, color on those varies by paint scheme, so they stand out, but you rarely even see aircraft with them that clearly marked anyway. With low-vis markings, they're usually just a darker or lighter shade of gray. For the VF-11B, a lighter gray or even white might look good, though black would probably be fine. I don't know why they would use red really. It's probably a hold-over from 1970s high-vis navy markings, which I think did tend to use red markings.

Edited by Chronocidal
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You know, I never understood the rear gear design on the VF-11.. the 1/60 I mean. You've got those tiny struts, and that big bay with two separate doors. The front gear doors do absolutely nothing, except making it look canon. You don't even need them open to lower the gear, since the pivot is completely behind that door.

You could add a good centimeter or so to those gear if you just moved the pivot forward to the front of the bay. I just never use them, so you can't see how goofy they look. :p

they're like that because that's how they're supposed to look:

vf-11b-lineart.gif

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Oh, I know, they definitely got the look right, but the gear are mounted way too far back. Like I said, the pivot point on the 1/60 is clear behind that front door, so the front door doesn't need to open at all. If the pivot was farther forward, there'd be room for a longer strut. As it is now, the main gear doors practically drag on the ground, and they definitely would if the plane tried to rotate on takeoff.

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Hi all,

Joined this party late... just got my very first VF-11B from that HLJ sale! I always wondered why it was more expensive than the other similar sized valkyries, but now I understand why - especially sweet when there was that sale on top. Has no one stickered up theirs and posted photos?

I stickered my up a while ago and now I'm posting photos. the The included stickers are pretty subtle but they add a nice touch.

7239402372_4872f55516_z.jpg

VF-11B Isamu Dyson Colors by Mike - drowning in plastic, on Flickr

7239400392_425c98f446_z.jpg

VF-11B Isamu Dyson Colors by Mike - drowning in plastic, on Flickr

7239401366_f46bc8bb40_z.jpg

VF-11B Isamu Dyson Colors by Mike - drowning in plastic, on Flickr

Edited by anime52k8
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I have been looking at all the pics and now want to get one. What's the going price for VF-11B these days?

Funny you should ask this as I was just looking at prices on eBay to see if it's a good time to sell my extra VF-11B. They go for about $185 shipped on eBay at the moment. HLJ is about that price as well when they have a sale. You should definitely get one as it's one of the best Valks put out my Yamato and the design by Kawamori is still one of my favorites.

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Just a question; I stickered my VF-1S 1/48 a while ago, and I'm quite not satisfied with the quality, ie peeling off.

Is the VF-11B stickers the same or different?

The 11B stickers should be closer to the ones the V2 VF-1s have... sticks on very well. Not easy to peel off even with long pair of fingernails

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  • 4 weeks later...

U know what? I've just given up on the 11C ever being in robot form. i know how the lower shield is supposed to lock, and I also know it just refuses to on mine. Ive tried taking the cockpit out, Ive tried forcing it, wiggling it, whatever; NOTHING works! So top heck with it. Fighter forever!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello guys !

The VF-11B is one of my favorite

I really like the gerwalk mode but the leg articultation is bad with time the legs tend to bend outwards easily and the valkyrie just collapses

so I found out a trick that is really simple in order to correct this weak point of the VF-11B

you only need one thing : a 0.30 mm fishing wire (the wire must not be too big as you don't have much room to fit it inside)

you do not have to dismantle the toy at all

You must wrap the fishing line around the joint and pull very hard and make a knot tight.

the fishing line will be hidden inside and your toy will take extreme poses!

DSC04649.jpg

DSC04646.jpg

DSC04650.jpg

Edited by Ghostkiller
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Looks great, but I wonder just how much more stress that would cause on the joint.

hello

no stress I think,

This is how yamato has designed the joint : a rubber part which touches the plastic part that connects the screw is suppossed to help the leg to stay in position

so the articulation works from the inside with a bit of compression between the rubber and the plastic and that is why there is a small gap when you look from the outside

my trick just fills the outside gap that you can see on my first pic...

As long as you can turn it easily without more efforts, there is no stress I reckon :)

Edited by Ghostkiller
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well, it works fine too I guess but my method is easier :p

my personnal confidence in superglue is 50/50

it tends to cracks when fully dried when pressure is applied...

superglue on ball joints for exemple does make the job at the begining but if you move a lot the articulation it tends to get loose again with time...

but I play too much with my valkyries I guess ^_^ but its works

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