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Official Bandai 1/72 Scale Macross Frontier Model Kit Thread Ver.2


Graham

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Yeah, I never do SAL if it can be avoided. Everytime I've had SAL something ended up going wrong, like broken pieces or a crushed box. But I also blame other factors such as my weakass post office not doing its job right.

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NEWS about Alto´s SuperPack and S.M.S. Action Base on Ngee Khiong Blog:

http://ngeekhiong.blogspot.com/

post-10806-1235031891_thumb.jpgpost-10806-1235031903_thumb.jpgpost-10806-1235031913_thumb.jpg

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Runner coloured in RED for missile pods:

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EDIT:

Instruction booklet has a picture of Alto´s Messiah with ArmourPack :lol:

Soon, very soon you will be mine B))

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Sweet! Armour pack here we come! I hope the Ozma super pack comes with yellow runners for the missile covers.

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Better images on Hobby Search Store:

http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10082659

I hope so the simple Super Pack Kit comes with 4 runners for missile covers, one of each in his correct colour, better than sticker/decals

Remember that price of one simple SuperPack Kit cost almost half of complete VF Model Kit...

We will see news in speciallized magazines soon

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Seems from these scans that the super parts:

1) come with custom colors for each livery, they are red in the VF-25F Alto Custom...

2) there is only a sheet of either stickers or decals (from the color it seems to be a sticker (no waterlide decals for heard-core model makers?!!!?)

3) MANY parts will not be needed (crossed out) if you want it with Super Packs on, which makes me wonder if I want to go through the disassembling of the built up standalone VF-25F to exchange for the Super Packs...good excuse for getting the bundle, yesss! (no time to build it, boooo! I have a Ozma waiting there and I BET when the armor comes out there will be many redundant parts...so more money goes to Bandai)

Lastly, my big question:

1) will the stand alone version of the Super Pack come with all color variants for everybody's valk? I don't own an airbrush, and missile bay doors are meant to be opened and closed so decals are a no-no for me: PLEASE do include pre-colored doors for sub-skilled snap-fit plamo builders!!!!

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almost forgot:

on my running around toy shops in Wanchai district in Hong Kong today, I came across a VF-25F set with a signature on it...the price tag was a little over HK$ 1K (forgot how much exactly but it COULDN'T have been 11K when the normal thing goes for 200-360).

The funny thing was the message by the price tag: "autographed by singer of animation"... I've never seen the signatures of either May'n nor Megumi and the shop owner didn't bother to find out! Either case Kawamori-san's autograph on a VF would have made more sense??!?! Would you pay extra for a plamo that claims to be autographed by the singer of the soundtrack of that anime??? I remember an episode when Charley Brown found out another kid was faking autographs on baseball bats, balls and gloves...

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Super pack combo is now available at HLJ, still waiting for the separate super parts though.

HLJ wants my money now for some previous order but I am going to hold them off until the super parts get released so I don't have to pay more for shipment than necessary.

[edit]Just noticed. http://www.hlj.com/product/BCL2880 Huh? Since when does B-club have the license to produce MacF kits? With that reduced price it looks like all the pro-modellers will finally get their fightermode only model.[/edit]

Edited by DarkReaper
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[edit]Just noticed. http://www.hlj.com/product/BCL2880 Huh? Since when does B-club have the license to produce MacF kits? With that reduced price it looks like all the pro-modellers will finally get their fightermode only model.[/edit]

once again those are hands, just hands.

hdm_186.jpg

very expensive up detailed fixed pose hands from b-club for use with the bandai VF-25 kit.

Edited by anime52k8
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8 days to 30+ days. SAL ships based on when the boat is filled up. So if the boat is just starting to get packed, then you're in for a long wait. Also, you can't tell the boat's status, so it's just luck...

I'm not really all that worried about the wait. I have more than enough things to keep myself occupied. :D Plus, I still have the Sinanju kit that I bought last weekend to build, so that should keep my desire to play with plastic satisfied for at least a couple of days.

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Okay. Someone helped me with sanding suggestions by pointing to a link to a good sanding thread, anyone got the good panel line thread? I've done a few searches here with mixed results, most being that the threads don't really say how to do well if you don't use paint. I have zero interest in using paint and want to use pens or possibly graphite (except graphite rubs off). I've tried using a rapidograph pen, but it wouldn't dry on the gundam plastic...

Edit: Forgot to mention, I tried a sharpie pen (not marker) and it worked great, aside from leaving a large line. I'm kinda looking for something that will fit fine lines too. The sharpie didn't smudge or streak when rubbed either.

Edit2: Found out an eraser will actually take off the sharpie, so if I can get an ultrafine sharpie, that might work. But will it fit very small panel lines? Someone on another board said that Crayola Water Colors is the easiest thing to use and since I won't be painting, MAYBE I'd be willing to try them...

Edited by protostar8
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Okay. Someone helped me with sanding suggestions by pointing to a link to a good sanding thread, anyone got the good panel line thread? I've done a few searches here with mixed results, most being that the threads don't really say how to do well if you don't use paint. I have zero interest in using paint and want to use pens or possibly graphite (except graphite rubs off). I've tried using a rapidograph pen, but it wouldn't dry on the gundam plastic...

Edit: Forgot to mention, I tried a sharpie pen (not marker) and it worked great, aside from leaving a large line. I'm kinda looking for something that will fit fine lines too. The sharpie didn't smudge or streak when rubbed either.

If you want to use a pen, use either the Sakura Micron 005 pens, or the fine gundam markers (GM02). Alternatively, you can try this: http://www.promodeller.com/promodellers-weathering-wash/ You need a paintbrush, true, but it panel lines your kit in about 20 minutes, it works on any surface (even bare plastic), and it wipes off with kitchen towels. The effect, IMO, is far better than anything you can get with marker pens and with less hassel than a proper oil wash.

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If you want to use a pen, use either the Sakura Micron 005 pens, or the fine gundam markers (GM02). Alternatively, you can try this: http://www.promodeller.com/promodellers-weathering-wash/ You need a paintbrush, true, but it panel lines your kit in about 20 minutes, it works on any surface (even bare plastic), and it wipes off with kitchen towels. The effect, IMO, is far better than anything you can get with marker pens and with less hassel than a proper oil wash.

The "wash" sounds nice, but I see the same issue I see on every page that mentions "wash" techniques. All mention that the wash needs to be applied on top of a gloss coat (or other coat). I don't plan to use a gloss/matte/flat coat b/c I'm not painting my kit, so will this still work? And will it need to be sealed after application? After all, if a moist washcloth can take the stuff off, won't fingers rub the stuff out of the panels by accident?

I know the sharpie I used was basically smudge proof and could only be removed with the eraser I used.

Edited by protostar8
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If you want to use a pen, use either the Sakura Micron 005 pens, or the fine gundam markers (GM02). Alternatively, you can try this: http://www.promodeller.com/promodellers-weathering-wash/ You need a paintbrush, true, but it panel lines your kit in about 20 minutes, it works on any surface (even bare plastic), and it wipes off with kitchen towels. The effect, IMO, is far better than anything you can get with marker pens and with less hassel than a proper oil wash.

I used that wash on my VF-25 first and it just did not work well at all (ask for details). I ended up washing the wash off and using the gundam marker Grey fine tip for panel lines GM02 instead and it looked a million times better.

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I used that wash on my VF-25 first and it just did not work well at all (ask for details). I ended up washing the wash off and using the gundam marker Grey fine tip for panel lines GM02 instead and it looked a million times better.

Okay. Sounds good. I'll very likely try that approach then. I hope the gray will work well with the Luca green color and the Michael blue color (if not, I may try an ultra-fine black sharpie). Thanks for the input! Of course, I'll try to post an update like I did with the sand paper stuff to tell how it worked out and any little tricks I picked up.

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Okay. Sounds good. I'll very likely try that approach then. I hope the gray will work well with the Luca green color and the Michael blue color (if not, I may try an ultra-fine black sharpie). Thanks for the input! Of course, I'll try to post an update like I did with the sand paper stuff to tell how it worked out and any little tricks I picked up.

I am guessing that it should work fine with the luca and michael. The sharpie may be difficult for when mistakes occur. One very cool thing about the gundam marker for panel lines is that you can use some wiping techniques to get some cool effects and if mistakes occur you can wash them off quite easily or use a gundam erasing marker. I have a feeling a sharpie may be a bit less forgiving.

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I am guessing that it should work fine with the luca and michael. The sharpie may be difficult for when mistakes occur. One very cool thing about the gundam marker for panel lines is that you can use some wiping techniques to get some cool effects and if mistakes occur you can wash them off quite easily or use a gundam erasing marker. I have a feeling a sharpie may be a bit less forgiving.

Well, I can use a pencil eraser to completely remove any sharpie that gets in places it wasn't supposed to get. Sounds weird, but it really works. I'd bet the gundam marker can be erased too...

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Well, I can use a pencil eraser to completely remove any sharpie that gets in places it wasn't supposed to get. Sounds weird, but it really works. I'd bet the gundam marker can be erased too...

That is very cool. I did not know that. Thanks for the information on that!

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I used that wash on my VF-25 first and it just did not work well at all (ask for details). I ended up washing the wash off and using the gundam marker Grey fine tip for panel lines GM02 instead and it looked a million times better.

Why didn't it work? It worked perfectly well for my VF-25S and my DX VF-25F... and this is on bare plastic, with no preparation.

Edited by edwin3060
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Why didn't it work? It worked perfectly well for my VF-25S and my DX VF-25F... and this is on bare plastic, with no preparation.

It did not adhere very well in general, when carefully rubbing the excess it was apparent that it did not fill the panel lines evenly, it filled in whatever inperfections were in the plastic better than the actual panel lines, and on some randomly select pieces of plastic it stained the white to gray. I tried to completely wash off those gray pieces but they were toroughly stained by it. And after all that it just did not look very good.

That was when I decided to wash off all the weathering wash and start over with a gundam panel line marker (as listed above), which was even, smooth, easy to use, and gave a much better look overall in my opinion.

The promodeler weathering wash works good with other things and I think it is a useful product in general.

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Maybe the porous nature of bare plastic isn't suited to promodeler wash. Maybe it's pigments are too small and get soaked up.

So I guess clear coating is a necessity if you want to use that wash. My acrylic wash worked fine on bare plastic though, there was a bit of discoloration in the plastic but nothing major. Most of it can be attributed to my bad swiping technique, those q-tips I used simply got soaked with color after the first cm or so and then started smudging.

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