Vostok 7 Posted December 5, 2008 Share Posted December 5, 2008 Probably already discussed, but how do these rank in detail and features compared to the Gundam kits? Seems like from what I've heard they are inbetween an HG and an MG? Vostok 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shiroikaze Posted December 5, 2008 Share Posted December 5, 2008 Probably already discussed, but how do these rank in detail and features compared to the Gundam kits? Seems like from what I've heard they are inbetween an HG and an MG? Vostok 7 I believe they're more inline with the MG's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Master Dex Posted December 5, 2008 Share Posted December 5, 2008 I'd personally recommend the wash method like others mentioned above me. Even when I first started building Gundam models, I'd use the q-tip and wash method and the finish was leagues better then using a panel lining pen. I must have owned 3-4 different panel lining paint pens and all of them had to "thick" of a look to them. Check out these sites to get an idea of how to do washes or just google it. gamera and fichten The paint pen method will work (thats all gundam markers are) but it won't give you the best result unless you do some cleaning up (erasers, etc) and the wash method may be faster. That second link didn't seem to lead anywhere but that first one was very helpful. I never really understood the other panel lining method before so it was nice to see a video of it. Only question I have is he mentions several times that wash method works better after you have clear coated it... I have heard this said many times but what exactly does it mean and how is that one done? (I figure I'll get better answers from the people here than google...) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWR MKII Posted December 5, 2008 Share Posted December 5, 2008 Spray a coat of futore floor polish or tamiya clear over it. A wash will stain a matt/flat finish where a gloss finish will only keep the paint in the panel lines and around details. the gloss allows you to remove excess. I will be covering this in my VF-25 build. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gamerabaenre Posted December 5, 2008 Share Posted December 5, 2008 That second link didn't seem to lead anywhere but that first one was very helpful. I never really understood the other panel lining method before so it was nice to see a video of it. Only question I have is he mentions several times that wash method works better after you have clear coated it... I have heard this said many times but what exactly does it mean and how is that one done? (I figure I'll get better answers from the people here than google...) Hi, this may better answer your question: http://www.gamerabaenre.com/panel_line_wash.htm And there is a larger scaled version of the video from the front page. Hope this is helpful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anime52k8 Posted December 5, 2008 Share Posted December 5, 2008 right now I've got two VF-25F's, and one I'm going to build as alto. but the other one I'm feeling a little crazy, and I'm going to try and paint it up like this: I'm also thinking about making a pair of delta wings for it. anyone happen to know of some good tools/tutorials for scribing panel lines? (I've tried it before, usually with little success relative to the amount of headache/frustration.) any help/advice on scratch building (or if you think you can talk me out of it) please speak up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edwin3060 Posted December 5, 2008 Share Posted December 5, 2008 (edited) right now I've got two VF-25F's, and one I'm going to build as alto. but the other one I'm feeling a little crazy, and I'm going to try and paint it up like this: I'm also thinking about making a pair of delta wings for it. anyone happen to know of some good tools/tutorials for scribing panel lines? (I've tried it before, usually with little success relative to the amount of headache/frustration.) any help/advice on scratch building (or if you think you can talk me out of it) please speak up. That's gorgeous! Where is that aircraft from? Having just built my Eurofighter Typhoon I suggest taking an existing aircraft kit wing and modifying from there? The basic shape is already there and all you'd have to do is drill a hole in it or something... should be far easier than trying to build it from scratch (although you might not get the exact shape you want) HWR MKII: Yea I know that the wash is the way to go, but it requires more equipment, including the clear coating stuff (I don't have a space for spraying my kits, and living in London it rains so often and so unpredictably) as compared to a marker and an eraser. Edited December 5, 2008 by edwin3060 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dobber Posted December 5, 2008 Share Posted December 5, 2008 (edited) Doing that kind of wash has NEVER worked for me. Not saying it doesn't work, but I could never get it to work and I'm a fairly experienced modeler. Enamel thinner or Alcohol always removed the base coat no matter what I used or sealed it in. Tried mineral spirits too. I don't know what I must be odoing wrong but I've followed those steps before and it always ruined the under coat. I may also just be lucky too because I've never had a problem with different paint types. I almost exclusively use Acrylics now and pretty much always seal it with MM gloss/ flat excetra lacqure's, and never had a problem with it. I also sometimes use Tamiya clear which is glossy but have never seen a flat clear coat from tamiya except what comes in the little bottle. I tried spraying that on once, and it frosted my model. not sure what I was supposed to do there, but I've never seen a Tamiya flat clear coat in a can like thier "Clear" is but for flats. I've always just used MM flat lacqure with no problems on top of any paint type. Guess that's why I'm confused by this whole paint type thing, and how you shouldn't put one on top of another. Never gives my a problem. And yet, I can't get washes to work I seem to be opposite of every other modeler!! Chris Edited December 5, 2008 by Dobber Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Master Dex Posted December 5, 2008 Share Posted December 5, 2008 Ok, so the clear coat stuff is a spray then? If so then is it better to spray it over the individual pieces (as in the ones getting panel lined at least) and then panel line the individual pieces, or do you do like the guy in the video and have the model in only a few pieces (which is easily done seeing how the VF-25 is built in the instructions). It seems like the more I hear about it, this method of panel lining does seem easier but at the same time the more I hear about it there is continually something extra, like now there is this clear coat thing before the lining.... do you have to do something extra after finishing the panel lines too? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anime52k8 Posted December 5, 2008 Share Posted December 5, 2008 That's gorgeous! Where is that aircraft from? Having just built my Eurofighter Typhoon I suggest taking an existing aircraft kit wing and modifying from there? The basic shape is already there and all you'd have to do is drill a hole in it or something... should be far easier than trying to build it from scratch (although you might not get the exact shape you want) the plane is the CFA-44 Nosferatu, the superplane introduced in ace combat 6. truthfully this partucular version is a bit of a whale to fly, but it's an absolutely beautiful aircraft that kind of reminds me of the VF-25. as for the wings I'm still looking at different options; I'm considering either fully scratch built using sheet styrene or adding sections of styrene to the existing wings. the problem with using parts from a donor kit is that I have to find a kit with wings at least remotely close to the right size and shape, and I'm still going to end up moding it. the easiest option is looking to be building up the kit wings so far. but since I plan to finish my other alto strait from the box first to get a feel for it, I'll have plenty of time to figure out how to build this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zebu Posted December 5, 2008 Share Posted December 5, 2008 (edited) Ok, so the clear coat stuff is a spray then? If so then is it better to spray it over the individual pieces (as in the ones getting panel lined at least) and then panel line the individual pieces, or do you do like the guy in the video and have the model in only a few pieces (which is easily done seeing how the VF-25 is built in the instructions). It seems like the more I hear about it, this method of panel lining does seem easier but at the same time the more I hear about it there is continually something extra, like now there is this clear coat thing before the lining.... do you have to do something extra after finishing the panel lines too? One method I use is take all parts that need to be clear coated and secure them on large cardboard with double sided tape. Then spay on the clear coats. This way I can coat many peices at the same time with even paint consistancy. Also it is easier to keep trak/ensure ALL parts that need coating are coated. I used this method on my MG Stirke Freedom Gundam Repaint and Turn A Gundam Seriously... Don't worry too much about it and just try it first. All these questions and decision making will only confuse you more. Trial and error is the best way to go. Plus, most method we've all discussed, have means to reverse if should you made a mistake. Good luck Zebu Edited December 5, 2008 by zebu Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edwin3060 Posted December 5, 2008 Share Posted December 5, 2008 the plane is the CFA-44 Nosferatu, the superplane introduced in ace combat 6. truthfully this partucular version is a bit of a whale to fly, but it's an absolutely beautiful aircraft that kind of reminds me of the VF-25. as for the wings I'm still looking at different options; I'm considering either fully scratch built using sheet styrene or adding sections of styrene to the existing wings. the problem with using parts from a donor kit is that I have to find a kit with wings at least remotely close to the right size and shape, and I'm still going to end up moding it. the easiest option is looking to be building up the kit wings so far. but since I plan to finish my other alto strait from the box first to get a feel for it, I'll have plenty of time to figure out how to build this. I will be highly interested in your build! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Master Dex Posted December 5, 2008 Share Posted December 5, 2008 One method I use is take all parts that need to be clear coated and secure them on large cardboard with double sided tape. Then spay on the clear coats. This way I can coat many peices at the same time with even paint consistancy. Also it is easier to keep trak/ensure ALL parts that need coating are coated. I used this method on my MG Stirke Freedom Gundam Repaint and Turn A Gundam Seriously... Don't worry too much about it and just try it first. All these questions and decision making will only confuse you more. Trial and error is the best way to go. Plus, most method we've all discussed, have means to reverse if should you made a mistake. Good luck Zebu Well I don't want to mess up this VF-25 because I do not plan on buying a second, I don't do the whole duplicate thing. So I don't want to do something I could horribly mess up even if it is reversible. It just seems like there is always another step that I am just suddenly learning about, I just want to know what all I am supposed to do if I use this method of panel lining because otherwise I'll skip some step and it won't work out. I don't want to spend money on buying a whole new kit. I am not even sure where to get all this stuff so I may just not bother (I am sure I could Google it all and find it for sale somewhere but at this point it is seems like more of a chore to track it all down). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
electric indigo Posted December 5, 2008 Share Posted December 5, 2008 The new issue of Model Graphix is not only full of VF-25 goodness, it also has a new VF-4 build. Grab it here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Master Dex Posted December 5, 2008 Share Posted December 5, 2008 Whooo.. is that VF-4 a Hagasawa or is it something Bandai is making? Because the Haga's are a bit more than I want to deal with (I don't like doing glue or cement models). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Master Dex Posted December 5, 2008 Share Posted December 5, 2008 Ok, another question here... I just can't find anything on this by searching. I got the idea on the panel lining now, but what I need to know more about is this clear coating stuff. I search the names people say but I can't find anything that helps me understand it better nor where I can get this stuff. I am really a novice at this stuff so I can use any help I get. Also, I know that if I use the wash method I should do this clear coat first, but should I do that at all if I use a marker? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zebu Posted December 6, 2008 Share Posted December 6, 2008 Howdy! Par 2 of 3 for VF-25S progress is up on my blog . I'm basically done now but will work on costme made base next. Enjoy http://gunplafederation.blogspot.com/2008/...art-2-of-3.html Zebu Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vifam7 Posted December 6, 2008 Share Posted December 6, 2008 Ok, another question here... I just can't find anything on this by searching. I got the idea on the panel lining now, but what I need to know more about is this clear coating stuff. I search the names people say but I can't find anything that helps me understand it better nor where I can get this stuff. I am really a novice at this stuff so I can use any help I get. Generally when folks here talk about clear coat before panel lining via a wash, they're talking about using a floor finish called Future. Everything you want to know about Future is here: http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html. Other alternatives include stuff like Tamiya Gloss Clear in a Spray can (http://www.hlj.com/product/TAMTS-13) or GSI Creos' Gloss Topcoat in a spraycan (http://www.hlj.com/product/GNZB-501) Also, I know that if I use the wash method I should do this clear coat first, but should I do that at all if I use a marker? If you're not doing a full paint job, you don't need to clear coat before panel lining (whether via wash or via marker). If you are painting, then you should coat with a gloss type clear coat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Master Dex Posted December 6, 2008 Share Posted December 6, 2008 Generally when folks here talk about clear coat before panel lining via a wash, they're talking about using a floor finish called Future. Everything you want to know about Future is here: http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html. Other alternatives include stuff like Tamiya Gloss Clear in a Spray can (http://www.hlj.com/product/TAMTS-13) or GSI Creos' Gloss Topcoat in a spraycan (http://www.hlj.com/product/GNZB-501) If you're not doing a full paint job, you don't need to clear coat before panel lining (whether via wash or via marker). If you are painting, then you should coat with a gloss type clear coat. Oh, well I am most certainly not painting. All I want is to panel line and then apply stickers (not decals, that just seems like more of a chore, but the stickers I hear are quite good anyway). So if that is all then I do not need to worry about clear coating, ok that helps a lot. Thank you for clarifying that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edwin3060 Posted December 6, 2008 Share Posted December 6, 2008 (edited) The new issue of Model Graphix is not only full of VF-25 goodness, it also has a new VF-4 build. Grab it here Re-upload please! Links don't seem to be working! edit: good to go for me now. Edited December 6, 2008 by edwin3060 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anime52k8 Posted December 6, 2008 Share Posted December 6, 2008 Re-upload please! Links don't seem to be working! works fine for me. so, has anyone had experiance with this tool: (micro-mark Panel scriber) http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?M...ct&ID=60728 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miriya Posted December 6, 2008 Share Posted December 6, 2008 (edited) works fine for me. so, has anyone had experiance with this tool: (micro-mark Panel scriber) http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?M...ct&ID=60728 Yeah it is quite nice. It is very dynamic and takes a bit of getting used to. Best to use with a straight edge and constant/even pressure for the depth. EDIT: Sorry. I was thinking of a different brand. I will try to find the one that I have and post a link. Edited December 6, 2008 by miriya Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest sh002 Posted December 7, 2008 Share Posted December 7, 2008 these are great for snapfit kits that are transformable. i hope bandai is allowed to release valkyries from other series after they release everything they can for frontier. i would love a 1/72 vf-2ss. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miriya Posted December 7, 2008 Share Posted December 7, 2008 works fine for me. so, has anyone had experiance with this tool: (micro-mark Panel scriber) http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?M...ct&ID=60728 OK I found the one that I have.... http://www.bare-metal.com/Introduction-To-...Metal-Foil.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Master Dex Posted December 7, 2008 Share Posted December 7, 2008 Ok, last question I will ask about panel lining.. I think I am going to try the wash method another time and go with markers now, I can deal with that and I'm not really too picky about line thickness. Now someone before once said that find tip gray like GM02 would work find for the Ozma kit despite this valks gray color, is that best or should I just go with GM01 black I was thinking about getting both but in the interest of saving money I was thinking then just to get an idea of which would most likely be better and only get the one. I have a place to buy from so I don't need links, just an idea for which would work better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anime52k8 Posted December 7, 2008 Share Posted December 7, 2008 I would say GM02 would be better. GM02 grey is very dark, and and will still be visible on just about every color short of black. but being Grey, GM02 will be a little more subtle, and in my opinion better looking than strait back. (strait black looks a little odd on most colors but white, and even then it looks very intense.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shenphong Posted December 7, 2008 Share Posted December 7, 2008 I have to say, I'm fairly impressed with the quality of the kit. Picked it up off a member on the board and really like what I'm seeing with it. Not as sturdy as the later MG Gundam kits, but leagues above most of them in detail. I'd definitely recommend anyone buy any of these kits if they are still on the limb about it and thankfully, bandai will be releasing add on packs separately as well as bundled together with the full kits. I'm hoping to get my Ozma unit built soon and going to refurbish my already built Alto unit so hopefully everything separates just as easy as they came together. By any chance, for all the people who used stickers on their Alto unit kits and don't plan to use the decals be willing to part with them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IXTL Posted December 8, 2008 Share Posted December 8, 2008 (edited) From Hobby Midori 1/72 RVF-25 PLAMO Feb 2009, 5,800yen Edited December 8, 2008 by IXTL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
klam1020 Posted December 8, 2008 Share Posted December 8, 2008 (edited) with 3 ghost! in fact, waht I need is just the ghost Edited December 8, 2008 by klam1020 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
electric indigo Posted December 8, 2008 Share Posted December 8, 2008 Same here. Should be a good way to compensate the higher price for the kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anime52k8 Posted December 8, 2008 Share Posted December 8, 2008 you know I just noticed this, but the RVF-25's head reminds me of Guy-Manuel of Daft Punk's helmet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cent Posted December 8, 2008 Share Posted December 8, 2008 Hm. Is there a physical difference between Luca's 3 UCAV Ghosts and the Ghost X9/V9s? Aside from the color scheme? Been waiting for ghost fighters forever, but I don't know if I can justify getting the RVF-25 for that. Luca wasn't exactly an inspiring character, and neither was his piloting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kelsain Posted December 8, 2008 Share Posted December 8, 2008 Zounds, that's $62 + shipping!1! On the other hand, 3 ghosts! I suppose with the right custom paint scheme, the RVF could be pretty sweet... I gotta put more transformers on eBay! Ah, hell, I'm still trying to find an affordable S or F! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thankheaven Posted December 8, 2008 Share Posted December 8, 2008 I expected it to only come with one ghost but 3 ? Cool, looks like i need to buy a lot of actionstands then. But to be honest i'd rather take one ghost and have them put in the Superparts instead. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miriya Posted December 8, 2008 Share Posted December 8, 2008 Yeah, it would have been best with super parts too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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