Valkyrie addict Posted September 11, 2008 Share Posted September 11, 2008 (edited) ok, sorry to be a pain about this, I know we're beating this to death and Graham already send pics to Yamato about this well, since I've been trying to glue back the piece that broke from the hinge with no success, I was able to take a good look about what might happened and what I've concluded that the piece breaks by a series of combined factors, but the main problem is that the shoulder is too tight now, let's get technical . . IN HERE YOU CAN SEE HOW THE HINGE IS ARRANGE; 1 IS THE HINGE -- 2 IS THE METAL PIN -- 3 IS THE BAR THAT PIVOTS -- 4 IS THE LIMIT WHERE THE HINGE HOUSES WHEN LOCKED FOR BATTROID NOTICE THAT THE PIN IS THICKER IN THE DISTAL END, PROBABLY FOR THE PIN TO NOT SLIDE, THE PIN (PIECE NO.2) ITSELF APPEARS TO BE GLUED TO PIECE 3 AND THE HINGE (PIECE 1) IS WHAT MOVES, SO ESSENTIALLY WHEN YOU MOVE THE HINGE TO POSITION THE SHOULDER, PIECE 2 AND 3 ARE STATIC AND PIECE 1 IS WHAT MOVES ABOUT THE THICKER DISTAL END ON PIECE 2, NOTICE THAT THANKS TO THAT, PIECE 1 IS MORE NARROW ARROUND IT, LESS PLASTIC TO SUPPORT, MORE FRAGILE . . NOW IN HERE, WHEN YOU APPLY FORCE TO PIECE 1 UPWARD, MOST OF THE FORCE WILL BE FOCUSED ON THE CIRCLED AREA, BUT THIS DOESN'T SEEM TO BE THE PROBLEM . . NOW IF YOU APPLY FORCE DOWNWARD PIECE 1 SUFFERS A LOT ON THE CIRCLED AREA THAT APPEARS TO BE THE MOST FRAGILE BIT OF PIECE 1 . . ANOTHER THING, WHEN POSITIONING THE HINGE ON TRANSFORMATION, NOTICE ON PIECE 4, THERE'S A TAB WHICH PREVENTS THE SHOULDER TO DROOP DOWN ON BATTROID, THE PIECE CIRCLED ACTUALLY STANDS OUT AND IF YOU'RE NOT CAREFUL THE TAB FROM 4 WILL CLASH WITH THE WEAKEST AREA OF PIECE 1 MAKING IT MORE SUSCEPTIBLE TO BREAKAGE . . NOW WHAT APPEARS TO HAVE HAPPENED TO ME, IS THAT WHEN I WAS TRANSFORMING TO BATTROID, WHEN POSITION THE HIP BAR IN PLACE, IT PUSHED PIECE 1 AGAINST THE HOUSING OF 4, MAYBE MY PIECE WAS CRACKED AT THE MOMENT AND THE EXTRA PRESSURE MADE THE PART BUCKLE AND BREAK Now, what I think the problem is, essentially whenever you move the hinge on transformation, the weak part of the hinge gets stressed, but in essence it should hold, until you start to move the arm, the extra tightness of the shoulder applies extra pressure on the hinge, since it's the right arm that holds the gunpod, whenever we play with it this is the arm we move the most to pose (probably why there have been no left arm breakage reported yet), remember that the metal pin is glued so it doesn't move with the hinge, so essentially the only piece that actually moves is the plastic hinge, all the pressure is directly to only that slender piece of plastic until it eventually breaks now what I think would have prevented is that the thick part of the pin be up instead of down getting thicker plastic on the downward edge that gets stressed the most and for the pin to move with the hinge thus the energy would be transfered to the hinge and pin when moving it well, that's my analysis...hope everyone understand this, feel free to add any corrections or extra stuff you might want, thanks... Edited September 11, 2008 by Valkyrie addict Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horatio Positronic Posted September 11, 2008 Share Posted September 11, 2008 I just unboxed my VF-1S, and it arrived in perfect condition. Nothing broke transforming it from fighter to battroid and back, but I had about 4 heart attacks and had to watch the transformation video on Yamato's site to get the pelvis joint out of the nose. This new one has the tightest fit of all of the Valks I have (which is only three now but still). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shin Densetsu Kai 7.0 Posted September 11, 2008 Share Posted September 11, 2008 but the main problem is that the shoulder is too tight I guessed right then! I mainly thought it was because so far, the 1A with looser shoulders has had no reported breakages. Thanks for the diagram man! Therefore, it is in our best interested(1S owners), to find a way to get the shoulder armor off, and loosen the screws. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shin Densetsu Kai 7.0 Posted September 11, 2008 Share Posted September 11, 2008 but I had about 4 heart attacks and had to watch the transformation video on Yamato's site to get the pelvis joint out of the nose. Its actually extremely easy to do. Pull on the back, this will make the swing bar bend at an angle(notice that there is a joint immediately before the hip bar which it is attached to). Then swing both legs forward simultaneously. At this point, the nose latch should pop open and all you need to do is push the bar forward to release. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterryno Posted September 11, 2008 Share Posted September 11, 2008 I guessed right then! I mainly thought it was because so far, the 1A with looser shoulders has had no reported breakages. Thanks for the diagram man! Therefore, it is in our best interested(1S owners), to find a way to get the shoulder armor off, and loosen the screws. Too late for me . Until I get my 2nd 1S. Now I know...and knowing is half of the intergalactic battle . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EXO Posted September 11, 2008 Share Posted September 11, 2008 No sire, I don't like it... I'm only gonna buy 2. this year... of each... kidding... don't send the hate mail! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken Posted September 12, 2008 Share Posted September 12, 2008 i got mine yesterday,i must say it's the final and best version of 1/60 vf-1,so i absolutely vote perfect the fighter mode is very solid and handy,you can play it like a child the gerwalk mode is sweetas the same,but the ankles are a little tight to pull out,well,better than being loose the batteroid mode is good in shape,no part is loose,the joint of upper arm is even tight,it's a bit release since my vf-0a is loose everywhere but the shoulder still can be folded in and out,i think it should be fixed,though it might be able to pose the figure easily i think it's a perfect toy,not too big but detailed,Q/C is not high for the cost part but i don't even want to guess the price of yamato's real "DX" version of vf-1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horatio Positronic Posted September 12, 2008 Share Posted September 12, 2008 Its actually extremely easy to do. Pull on the back, this will make the swing bar bend at an angle(notice that there is a joint immediately before the hip bar which it is attached to). Then swing both legs forward simultaneously. At this point, the nose latch should pop open and all you need to do is push the bar forward to release. On the first transform the joint just above the hip bar was far too tight to be able to do that, so it just got itself stuck. I had some trouble getting that joint in the right position to connect to the nose so I bent it back and forth a few times to loosen it, but that didn't seem to be enough. I did eventually get it out, but that was a struggle. Now it's sitting happily in Fighter mode with all the super/strike parts on its stand with my VF-1J Stealth and VF-0S with ghost. I love Battroid mode, but Fighter is my favorite. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcsiaw Posted September 12, 2008 Share Posted September 12, 2008 (edited) get my valk from HLJ on august.has a crack plate which is connected to the right shoulder. complaint to the HLJ n they sent replacement part via SAL. ok. get the replacement part today. so, before i replace the shoulder plate, i play with it a while...just a few swing...the crack appear... i think is the material + pin problem. even u loosen the screw at the main body, it would help much...just a matter of time. Edited September 18, 2008 by mcsiaw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ignacio Ocamica Posted September 12, 2008 Share Posted September 12, 2008 Had my VF-1A for two days and it's perfect!!! The shoulders are not as stiff as the VF-1S, so there's less tension. By the way my VF-1S is holding fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adrianop Posted September 12, 2008 Share Posted September 12, 2008 Picked up another VF-1S(with S&S parts this time). Its perfect for now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsvictor1976 Posted September 13, 2008 Share Posted September 13, 2008 Well, I haven't been on these forums for a while nor have I purchased a Yamato Macross figure since the 1/48s. When I saw the The VF-1S 1/60, I just had to get one. Unfortunately, the first time I tried to transform mine, a little piece of the shoulder pin chipped off. Same as descibed by others. What ticks me off is there wasn't even any forceful play involved. The damn thing just chipped off as soon as I swung the right arm open. Anyways, here is a picture taken from my not so great camera. I feel kind of ripped off now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UN Spacy Posted September 13, 2008 Share Posted September 13, 2008 The arms are a ticking time bomb. It's just a matter of time before.....KABLOOEY! I think I'll keep mine in Battroid mode from now on. I don't see any fractures and I'd like to keep it that way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shin Densetsu Kai 7.0 Posted September 13, 2008 Share Posted September 13, 2008 The arms are a ticking time bomb. It's just a matter of time before.....KABLOOEY! I think I'll keep mine in Battroid mode from now on. I don't see any fractures and I'd like to keep it that way. Just perform the fix I mentioned in the other thread man, slide the shoulder armor off, and loosen the shoulder screws to your heart's content! That way, you just have to worry about lifting the shoulder hinge over the stopper during transformation, rather than worry about the arms breaking during posing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruskiiVFaussie Posted September 14, 2008 Share Posted September 14, 2008 So whats yamato doing about this for further releases? I might have to cancel my VF-1J Hikau coz of this. I don't wanna have to worry about orderring my Hikaru 1S either! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Javabean Posted September 14, 2008 Share Posted September 14, 2008 I hope Yamato will do something for future release since Graham hv sent them feedbacks. Its too late on the 1A, so hopefully the next 1J Hikky onwards will be improved. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shin Densetsu Kai 7.0 Posted September 14, 2008 Share Posted September 14, 2008 So whats yamato doing about this for further releases? I might have to cancel my VF-1J Hikau coz of this. I don't wanna have to worry about orderring my Hikaru 1S either! They've already loosened the shoulders on the VF-1A Hikaru, and so far no breakages have been reported. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jepoyako Posted September 15, 2008 Share Posted September 15, 2008 Got my 1A last Friday from HLJ. Transformed to battroid with no problems. The shoulder swivel is a bit looser with this one. This is a good thing and helps with the transformation. My only complaint with this release is the "ultraviolent" coat on the canopy--they put too much on this one! The 1S was just right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UN Spacy Posted September 15, 2008 Share Posted September 15, 2008 How does too much ultraviolent look like? Is it easily noticed compared to the VF-1S? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jepoyako Posted September 15, 2008 Share Posted September 15, 2008 How does too much ultraviolent look like? Is it easily noticed compared to the VF-1S? Here you go... I think its very noticeable. Judge for yourself, I think too much "ultraviolent" coating is ugly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shin Densetsu Kai 7.0 Posted September 16, 2008 Share Posted September 16, 2008 I think the ultraviolent coating is based on the colors. Hikaru's has a reddish/violet/violent coating, while Focker has amber/yellowish coating. If Max's turns out to have blue coating then we have our answer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Javabean Posted September 16, 2008 Share Posted September 16, 2008 And Kakizaki will hv more greenish tint . But I kinda like these ultraviolet effect on the canopy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterryno Posted September 16, 2008 Share Posted September 16, 2008 (edited) I think the ultraviolent coating is based on the colors. Hikaru's has a reddish/violet/violent coating, while Focker has amber/yellowish coating. If Max's turns out to have blue coating then we have our answer. That's quite the deduction Holmes. . Really though...I didn't think of it that way. Makes me wonder if that's how it was really meant to be. Makes me wonder....if you're secretly working for YAMATO! ARE YOU!?! ANSWER ME.......AREEEEE YOOOOUUUUUU!!!???!!! Edited September 16, 2008 by misterryno Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shin Densetsu Kai 7.0 Posted September 16, 2008 Share Posted September 16, 2008 That's quite the deduction Holmes. mellow.gif . Really though...I didn't think of it that way. Makes me wonder if that's how it was really meant to be. Makes me wonder....if you're secretly working for YAMATO! ARE YOU!?! ANSWER ME.......AREEEEE YOOOOUUUUUU!!!???!!! Nope just observational deduction Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jepoyako Posted September 16, 2008 Share Posted September 16, 2008 I think the ultraviolent coating is based on the colors. Hikaru's has a reddish/violet/violent coating, while Focker has amber/yellowish coating. If Max's turns out to have blue coating then we have our answer. Maybe, but I still think it doesn't look right. It seems like a defect. Too much mirror coating. Looks really hazy in person. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyp Durron Posted September 16, 2008 Share Posted September 16, 2008 It doesn't look right to me either. -Kyp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sumdumgai Posted September 17, 2008 Share Posted September 17, 2008 I like the Focker ultraviolent coating in pictures better than the Hikaru coating. Then again, what would really count is me seeing it in person. Pictures are nothing compared to the real deal in person. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruskiiVFaussie Posted September 19, 2008 Share Posted September 19, 2008 (edited) They've already loosened the shoulders on the VF-1A Hikaru, and so far no breakages have been reported. Cool! Thanks Shin, makes me feel better about getting the 1J. I'm way out of the loop lately with no net access 5 days of the week, gettin a new laptop today! YAY. Edited September 19, 2008 by ruskiiVFaussie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcsiaw Posted September 19, 2008 Share Posted September 19, 2008 (edited) ok. get the replacement part from hlj today. so, before i replace the shoulder plate, i play with it a while...just a few swing...a crack appear... i think is the material + pin problem. even u loosen the screw at the main body, it wouldnt help much...it it just a matter of time. Edited September 19, 2008 by mcsiaw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jenius Posted September 19, 2008 Share Posted September 19, 2008 Well that's pretty damning. Could be a number of factors. There may be a tiny bit of slop in the size of the hole the pin fits in allowing it to wobble a bit applying pressure to the housing around it. It could also be the fat hinge in the middle doesn't have enough room to maneuver so when the plastic is in certain positions it pushes outward against the thin plastic edges that house it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcsiaw Posted September 19, 2008 Share Posted September 19, 2008 (edited) reply from HLJ: "...the extra shoulder part about 1500 yen each . please contact parts@hlj.com if you would like to order them..." hope this help. Edited September 21, 2008 by mcsiaw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shin Densetsu Kai 7.0 Posted September 19, 2008 Share Posted September 19, 2008 even u loosen the screw at the main body, it wouldnt help much...it it just a matter of time. The screws we loosened are on the shoulders themselves, not that hinge/main body. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterryno Posted September 19, 2008 Share Posted September 19, 2008 Graham, Any news to or from Yamato as of yet on the shoulder? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcsiaw Posted September 19, 2008 Share Posted September 19, 2008 (edited) The screws we loosened are on the shoulders themselves, not that hinge/main body. sori, i thought tat is the screw tat need to be loosen, as tat tight screw is the one which make the shoulder difficult to 'go over' the block/tab. arm was not attached when i moved the hinge, as i want to try if the 'pin holder' will break up even there is no loading/stress. anyway, i m getting some shoulder (hinge) to try again. Edited September 19, 2008 by mcsiaw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valkyrie23 Posted September 21, 2008 Share Posted September 21, 2008 I just opened my brand new VF-1S Roy from HLJ. The very first time I rotated the shoulders, before I even lifted the hinge over the stop, I noticed that one of my hinges has the same crack that shown in mcsjaw's pics! Completely new, out of the box - this is pretty annoying. Time and time again Yamato! I'm gonna go email HLJ now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.