Valkyrie addict Posted September 7, 2008 Share Posted September 7, 2008 ok...I hope with this pics there is no doubt about what are we talking about fvck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sumdumgai Posted September 7, 2008 Share Posted September 7, 2008 Looking at those pics, I don't get it. Where is it that it broke? Seriously though, that sucks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shin Densetsu Kai 7.0 Posted September 7, 2008 Share Posted September 7, 2008 Holy shi! that is one awesome photo highlight! Now, there won't be any question to which part broke. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diabloM Posted September 7, 2008 Share Posted September 7, 2008 (edited) even if the material used (for the hinge) for 1/48 and 1/60 v2 is the same, but there are structural differences between them... have a look at 1/48's or even the 1/60 vf-0's i thought this v2 was the perfect vf-1 ... Edited September 7, 2008 by diabloM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vegas Posted September 7, 2008 Share Posted September 7, 2008 weak plastic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m0n5t3r Posted September 7, 2008 Share Posted September 7, 2008 i'd be pissed too if that happened to me... the plastic covering the pin maybe a little on the thin side when compared to some TF toys that use the same type of metal pin (w/ teeth on one end). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valkyrie addict Posted September 7, 2008 Share Posted September 7, 2008 well, glad I made that clear... I don't own a hikki 1A...so I don't know what Yamato improved in the shoulder area, could anyone post pics of the 1A shoulder and hinge to see the difference Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Posted September 7, 2008 Share Posted September 7, 2008 Have you tried either moving the arms without supporting the hinge, or swiveling them out from fighter to gerwalk mode, without pulling the hinge up and over the stopper? If you try moving the arms by themselves, without supporting the hinge, you can definitely feel where the tension is coming from, and how it bears down on the hinge. No and No. I always lift the arm-to-back plate 180 degree swivel connector up and over the stopper. When I got my early version, I didn't have the benefit of any instructions, just figured that was the right way to do it and I've had no problems so far. Same with supporting the folding shoulder hinge. Like any object made of multiple, small, moveable parts, especially made of plastic, if I feel a joint is overly tight and giving me too much resistance, I'll support as much of it as I can while trying to move it, rather than holding it unsupported and pulling. I presume the way I have been transforming the new 1/60 VF-1 is correct. Don't know if it's what Yamato recommend in their instructions or video (haven't watched it yet). It just seemed the right, or common sense way to do it to me and I've (touch wood) had no stress marks or breakages so far. I haven't been following these threads on the new 1/60 VF-1 closely so far, so I was honestly surprised about the shoulder issue. In the months I had the toy to test, it seemed as sturdy as a brick to me. I do hope we don't have another brittle plastic problem. I'll be monitoring my toys closely and discussing with Yamato. Graham Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Javabean Posted September 7, 2008 Share Posted September 7, 2008 I thought the 1/60 hv the similar hinge design as the 1/48? So far I don't read anyone broke their hinge on the 1/48? Really give me the shutter after seeing those pics. Got to be extra extra careful transforming my 1/60 now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shin Densetsu Kai 7.0 Posted September 7, 2008 Share Posted September 7, 2008 (edited) I presume the way I have been transforming the new 1/60 VF-1 is correct. Don't know if it's what Yamato recommend in their instructions or video (haven't watched it yet). It just seemed the right, or common sense way to do it to me and I've (touch wood) had no stress marks or breakages so far. Its the same way David suggested swiveling the hinge out. I have been doing that, and supporting the shoulder hinge everytime I move it. No breakage for me so far either. I don't own a hikki 1A...so I don't know what Yamato improved in the shoulder area, could anyone post pics of the 1A shoulder and hinge to see the difference According to Swoosh, the shoulders are not as tight, they feel just right. I thought the 1/60 hv the similar hinge design as the 1/48? So far I don't read anyone broke their hinge on the 1/48? Really give me the shutter after seeing those pics. Got to be extra extra careful transforming my 1/60 now. The design is similar, but the hinge itself can move sideways(in and out) on the new 1/60, on the 1/48, its secured in one place and cannot move sideways in battroid mode. Edited September 7, 2008 by Shin Densetsu Kai 7.0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Javabean Posted September 7, 2008 Share Posted September 7, 2008 (edited) How I wish Yamato can also secure the hinge on 1/60 in battroid mode, same way like the 1/48. Moving the hinge in & out, sometimes when you are trying to do a pose, really scare me. The hinge on the new 1/60 juz look & feel soft to me. Edited September 7, 2008 by Javabean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diabloM Posted September 7, 2008 Share Posted September 7, 2008 I thought the 1/60 hv the similar hinge design as the 1/48? So far I don't read anyone broke their hinge on the 1/48? Really give me the shutter after seeing those pics. Got to be extra extra careful transforming my 1/60 now. 1/60 has similar mechanism but the joint part is not as sturdy as 1/48's due to structural difference... basically, i would say most of us support the hinge joint while transforming the valk, but the breakage still happens when i look at my valk, i feel irritated thinking about its stress mark. it was supposed to be a perfect/near perfect valk... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sumdumgai Posted September 7, 2008 Share Posted September 7, 2008 Maybe on future releases Yamato could engineer little additional parts to add on to lock the shoulder hinge area in place in battroid, kind of like they included side covers with the 1/48 GBP. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterryno Posted September 7, 2008 Share Posted September 7, 2008 Maybe on future releases Yamato could engineer little additional parts to add on to lock the shoulder hinge area in place in battroid, kind of like they included side covers with the 1/48 GBP. And there it is...........SIDECOVERS!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
valhary Posted September 7, 2008 Share Posted September 7, 2008 the solution for me is do the conector arm of metal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shin Densetsu Kai 7.0 Posted September 7, 2008 Share Posted September 7, 2008 the solution for me is do the conector arm of metal As the early Garlands have shown us though, even their diecast parts can break. What worries me is that the hinge may already be made out of POM, which is one of the most durable plastics out there, yet is breaking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hingtgen Posted September 7, 2008 Share Posted September 7, 2008 I'll check and see what the shoulder hinge is made of--I've built enough models that I can identify just about any plastic type by appearance/feel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterryno Posted September 7, 2008 Share Posted September 7, 2008 I'll check and see what the shoulder hinge is made of--I've built enough models that I can identify just about any plastic type by appearance/feel. Now THAT is a skill to have you could get on Americas Got Talent or whatever the hell that show is with Hasslehoff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shin Densetsu Kai 7.0 Posted September 7, 2008 Share Posted September 7, 2008 Now THAT is a skill to have laugh.gif laugh.gif laugh.gif you could get on Americas Got Talent or whatever the hell that show is with Hasslehoff. David would PWN that guy in identifying aircraft. David can identify block numbers of an aircraft from 90 yards away. The best Hasslehoff could come up with is Knight Rider. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Birdman Posted September 8, 2008 Share Posted September 8, 2008 Both my -1S and my -1A are fine but I won't vote just yet in case something decides to self-destruct in the next little while. Perfect for now... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Javabean Posted September 8, 2008 Share Posted September 8, 2008 Decided last nite to transform my 1S back to fighter mode. Cold sweats break during transformation as the broken hinge images reminded me . Yes as suggested, lifting the hinge up over the stopper, make it sweep back easily. My 1S will stay in fighter mode indefinately. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackdaniels Posted September 8, 2008 Share Posted September 8, 2008 (edited) Are people breaking their hinge by not lifting it over the tab? Or is it breaking while they are lifting it over? I've transformed it about a dozen times so far and I don't see a problem. I lift it enough so that the hinge gets onto the tab and then I let go and let it rest on the tab while I push it across and then lift it up again to get the end off. I just wanna figure out exactly when it is breaking. Edited September 8, 2008 by jackdaniels Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vegas Posted September 8, 2008 Share Posted September 8, 2008 Are people breaking their hinge by not lifting it over the tab? Or is it breaking while they are lifting it over? I've transformed it about a dozen times so far and I don't see a problem. I lift it enough so that the hinge gets onto the tab and then I let go and let it rest on the tab while I push it across and then lift it up again to get the end off. I just wanna figure out exactly when it is breaking. its breaking while they are lifting it over Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valkyrie addict Posted September 8, 2008 Share Posted September 8, 2008 what about the stand alone VF-1S with no FAST packs, anyone who owns it can say if the shoulder hinge is improved like the 1A?, any feedback on this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hingtgen Posted September 8, 2008 Share Posted September 8, 2008 its breaking while they are lifting it over Valkyire_addict seems to have broken his while messing with the hip bars, and wasn't moving the arms at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shin Densetsu Kai 7.0 Posted September 8, 2008 Share Posted September 8, 2008 Are people breaking their hinge by not lifting it over the tab? Thats what I'm wondering, whether its that or not supporting the shoulder hinges when moving the arms. Its a pain in the ass to have to support those damn things each time when you move the arms, just to prevent breakages. Sure someone can say I don't have to, but I am not taking a chance on an expensive toy like this. Everything else is solid for the most part on this toy, except for the hinges. By far very durable, except for that. Valkyire_addict seems to have broken his while messing with the hip bars, and wasn't moving the arms at all. He did mention the hinge being pressed against the thigh though, and in gerwalk mode, as wolfx pointed out, the hinge doesn't have much else to go, as the wing is pressed against the shoulder, and the shoulder hinge is pressed against the leg. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dangard Ace Posted September 8, 2008 Share Posted September 8, 2008 Query: Hmm....if the part is breaking because you have to lift it over a tab why hasn't someone tried filing that tab down? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shin Densetsu Kai 7.0 Posted September 8, 2008 Share Posted September 8, 2008 Query: Hmm....if the part is breaking because you have to lift it over a tab why hasn't someone tried filing that tab down? Because its the only thing keeping the hinge/shoulders in place in gerwalk, and battroid modes. If its filed down, the hinge will immediately swing downwards in battroid mode, making the shoulders lower than the chest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterryno Posted September 8, 2008 Share Posted September 8, 2008 Because its the only thing keeping the hinge/shoulders in place in gerwalk, and battroid modes. If its filed down, the hinge will immediately swing downwards in battroid mode, making the shoulders lower than the chest. exactly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dangard Ace Posted September 8, 2008 Share Posted September 8, 2008 Because its the only thing keeping the hinge/shoulders in place in gerwalk, and battroid modes. If its filed down, the hinge will immediately swing downwards in battroid mode, making the shoulders lower than the chest. That's for the useful reply. I see what you mean by filing the tab down wouldn't solve the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eugimon Posted September 8, 2008 Share Posted September 8, 2008 I think if the tab were wider, there would be less chance of it getting stuck in the hinge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ignacio Ocamica Posted September 8, 2008 Share Posted September 8, 2008 I've had my VF-1S Strike for a month and after repeated transformations it's holding fine!!! No cracks at any of the two shoulder hinges. I always secure the hinges when posing the arms Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
valhary Posted September 9, 2008 Share Posted September 9, 2008 review from collection dx http://collectiondx.com/node/2739 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterryno Posted September 9, 2008 Share Posted September 9, 2008 review from collection dx http://collectiondx.com/node/2739 THANKS!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valkyrie addict Posted September 11, 2008 Share Posted September 11, 2008 (edited) ok, sorry to be a pain about this, I know we're beating this to death and Graham already send pics to Yamato about this well, since I've been trying to glue back the piece that broke from the hinge with no success, I was able to take a good look about what might happened and what I've concluded that the piece breaks by a series of combined factors, but the main problem is that the shoulder is too tight now, let's get technical . . IN HERE YOU CAN SEE HOW THE HINGE IS ARRANGE; 1 IS THE HINGE -- 2 IS THE METAL PIN -- 3 IS THE BAR THAT PIVOTS -- 4 IS THE LIMIT WHERE THE HINGE HOUSES WHEN LOCKED FOR BATTROID NOTICE THAT THE PIN IS THICKER IN THE DISTAL END, PROBABLY FOR THE PIN TO NOT SLIDE, THE PIN (PIECE NO.2) ITSELF APPEARS TO BE GLUED TO PIECE 3 AND THE HINGE (PIECE 1) IS WHAT MOVES, SO ESSENTIALLY WHEN YOU MOVE THE HINGE TO POSITION THE SHOULDER, PIECE 2 AND 3 ARE STATIC AND PIECE 1 IS WHAT MOVES ABOUT THE THICKER DISTAL END ON PIECE 2, NOTICE THAT THANKS TO THAT, PIECE 1 IS MORE NARROW ARROUND IT, LESS PLASTIC TO SUPPORT, MORE FRAGILE . . NOW IN HERE, WHEN YOU APPLY FORCE TO PIECE 1 UPWARD, MOST OF THE FORCE WILL BE FOCUSED ON THE CIRCLED AREA, BUT THIS DOESN'T SEEM TO BE THE PROBLEM . . NOW IF YOU APPLY FORCE DOWNWARD PIECE 1 SUFFERS A LOT ON THE CIRCLED AREA THAT APPEARS TO BE THE MOST FRAGILE BIT OF PIECE 1 . . ANOTHER THING, WHEN POSITIONING THE HINGE ON TRANSFORMATION, NOTICE ON PIECE 4, THERE'S A TAB WHICH PREVENTS THE SHOULDER TO DROOP DOWN ON BATTROID, THE PIECE CIRCLED ACTUALLY STANDS OUT AND IF YOU'RE NOT CAREFUL THE TAB FROM 4 WILL CLASH WITH THE WEAKEST AREA OF PIECE 1 MAKING IT MORE SUSCEPTIBLE TO BREAKAGE . . NOW WHAT APPEARS TO HAVE HAPPENED TO ME, IS THAT WHEN I WAS TRANSFORMING TO BATTROID, WHEN POSITION THE HIP BAR IN PLACE, IT PUSHED PIECE 1 AGAINST THE HOUSING OF 4, MAYBE MY PIECE WAS CRACKED AT THE MOMENT AND THE EXTRA PRESSURE MADE THE PART BUCKLE AND BREAK Now, what I think the problem is, essentially whenever you move the hinge on transformation, the weak part of the hinge gets stressed, but in essence it should hold, until you start to move the arm, the extra tightness of the shoulder applies extra pressure on the hinge, since it's the right arm that holds the gunpod, whenever we play with it this is the arm we move the most to pose (probably why there have been no left arm breakage reported yet), remember that the metal pin is glued so it doesn't move with the hinge, so essentially the only piece that actually moves is the plastic hinge, all the pressure is directly to only that slender piece of plastic until it eventually breaks now what I think would have prevented is that the thick part of the pin be up instead of down getting thicker plastic on the downward edge that gets stressed the most and for the pin to move with the hinge thus the energy would be transfered to the hinge and pin when moving it well, that's my analysis...hope everyone understand this, feel free to add any corrections or extra stuff you might want, thanks... Edited September 11, 2008 by Valkyrie addict Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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