Valkyrie addict Posted November 18, 2008 Share Posted November 18, 2008 we're all waiting for reviews on the new VF-1J that just got released to see if anyone could see if any improvements were made to the shoulder material Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghostryder Posted November 22, 2008 Share Posted November 22, 2008 Can I change my vote to broken?? The dreaded left shoulder hairline crack due to spur-side of pin pointing up syndrome just cropped up on mine - maybe it was there all along, and I just haven't noticed. Luckily, it's still as tight as the other shoulder. Also, one of the head laser turrets is loose as a MOFO in fighter mode, it won't stay horizontal. Surprisingly, these issues don't bug me nearly as much as I thought they would. I guess I have a hardened heart after my VF-0S/-0A v1 disasters. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lynx7725 Posted November 23, 2008 Share Posted November 23, 2008 Update for my Fokker -- both hinges are now cracked. I'd transformed it to Battloid after my initial post and had left it thus for the last few weeks. I've loosened the screws too. Today I just transformed it back to Fighter and noticed the new crack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VFTF1 Posted November 23, 2008 Share Posted November 23, 2008 Also, one of the head laser turrets is loose as a MOFO in fighter mode, it won't stay horizontal. Have you tried to "push" it in a little? I noticed that, contrary to the 1/48, these laser turrets are made so that as you rotate them out when the head is in battroid mode, they sort of bend over to the side, to give it a more "anime" look, whereas the 1/48 were just parallel and straight out... I checked my VF-1S and have absolutely no trouble with it. The only "problem" is that the right shoulder is very tight - in the sense of the actual shoulder resting on the ball joint. Tight enough that I need to hold the square in order to provide counter-pressure for when I move the arm - but this isn't some huge deal... Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m0n5t3r Posted November 24, 2008 Share Posted November 24, 2008 so, does the breakage/fracture/crack happen while posing or transforming??? i myself haven't transformed my 1S back to fighter ever since this shoulder hinge thing started happening... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
schmungbeen Posted November 24, 2008 Share Posted November 24, 2008 Yeah, well now that I have transformed my valks (particularly the 1S cause its my fave) a few times that tell tale crack has appeared (and the foot/front left jet protrusion thing) on my valk somehow managed to become dislodged... Glue must have cracked or something, cause its not snapping back into place. Nothing lasts forever; I say enjoy it while it lasts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VFTF1 Posted November 24, 2008 Share Posted November 24, 2008 I've transformed my VF-1S about ten or so times since I got it, and no cracks, protrusions or anything of the sort have happened. In fact, none of my Yamato figures have had something like "cracks over time" happen. The ones that were defected busted during the first transformation/posing. The ones that aren't defective don't suddenly explode. I keep looking up and down my VF-1S everytime I read another horror story in this thread, wondering where the problem is... and seeing absolutely nothing ... I still have my second VF-1S - unopened in the box... maybe if I open him, he will explode after two transformations and I'll know what everyone is talking about? Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ff95gj Posted November 24, 2008 Share Posted November 24, 2008 Is it only me or what? I found the 1/60 v2 (and the VF-0 in that matter) require me to put force to transform in certain steps. Never had to push so hard for 1/48s. e.g. the hip part when you change back from battroid... I checked the Yamato site and I think I am doing it right. And the shoulders do look so fragile! Mechanically, it looks the same as 1/48 counterpart, but the 1/48 shoulders feel so solid that I never worried. But the 1/60 model makes me wondered if it would break any time when I pose the arms. I've transformed my VF-1S about ten or so times since I got it, and no cracks, protrusions or anything of the sort have happened. In fact, none of my Yamato figures have had something like "cracks over time" happen. The ones that were defected busted during the first transformation/posing. The ones that aren't defective don't suddenly explode. I keep looking up and down my VF-1S everytime I read another horror story in this thread, wondering where the problem is... and seeing absolutely nothing ... I still have my second VF-1S - unopened in the box... maybe if I open him, he will explode after two transformations and I'll know what everyone is talking about? Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VFTF1 Posted November 24, 2008 Share Posted November 24, 2008 (edited) Is it only me or what? I found the 1/60 v2 (and the VF-0 in that matter) require me to put force to transform in certain steps. Never had to push so hard for 1/48s. e.g. the hip part when you change back from battroid... I checked the Yamato site and I think I am doing it right. And the shoulders do look so fragile! Mechanically, it looks the same as 1/48 counterpart, but the 1/48 shoulders feel so solid that I never worried. But the 1/60 model makes me wondered if it would break any time when I pose the arms. About the hips - that's probably you. I had a "problem" with getting the swing bar loose from the pelvis as well - in the sense that I noticed that there was "no way to do it." I asked about it - I think even on this thread - and the gentleman with Stormshadow (GI Joe) in his Avatar was nice enough to talk me through it. I forgot the sequence - but there is indeed a sequence - starting I think with pushing the legs up... I'll check and find it.... But the point is - once you know the sequence - the transformation of that particular part is smooth. As for the shoulders - it's a matter of proportion. The "square panels" to which the ball joint is attached on the 1/48 is a big peace of plastic, and the 1/48s have far looser ball joint attachments for the arms - true. What I do is - when I want to move the arm on the ball joint, I hold the entire square bit that the ball joint is attached to as counter-friction. That takes the pressure of and makes you not have heart attacks whenever you want to re-pose the arm. But yeah - the hip from Battroid mode is easy - if you follow the sequence...gotta dig that up... it's here somewhere... gettin' old... too many different complex transformations to remember... EDIT: From Shin Densetsu - here you go: Pull the back towards you. This angles the swing bar. Swing both legs downward simultaneously. This will pop the latch open and expose the hips. At this point, push upwards from the bottom(as in bottom of the feet), this pushes the hip bar out of the nose cavity, and you are done. This literally only takes seconds. Pete Edited November 24, 2008 by VFTF1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ff95gj Posted November 25, 2008 Share Posted November 25, 2008 Thanks Pete! I think I did the right things... I looked at the reference from the official site; in case somebody else has the same problem as I do, I'll post the link here: http://www.yamato-toys.com/dev/cont_057/index.html I suppose if they explicitly add a page in their site on how to do this, I'm not the only one with the trouble. The sequence is basically fine, but it takes some force for me to push it up to "slide" the hip thing out of the fuselage (step 3 -> step 4 in the above link), and I hate to. I have had too many experiences in breaking toys like this (touch wood, none broken in my Yamato collections yet). And about the shoulder thing... so it's not only me who have the heart attack! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noisetrigger Posted November 26, 2008 Share Posted November 26, 2008 I always wanted a Yamato Valkyrie but have always been holding out for one due to the 1/48 VF1 reputation on being fragile and when the 1/60 was announced I was still vary because of their past reputation but due to Graham positive hands-on of the new 1/60 valky, I took a chance and ordered one. I got the figure back in July and voted perfect in this topic cause it was really perfect back then. Solid and sturdy and an amazing piece of engineering. It's one of my favourite toy in my collection. Well, fast forward today and I was reading about all these broken hinge and and upside down spurs or what not and I took my Roy out for inspection (I haven't transformed this for months!!!) and guess what? My left shoulder has the dreaded upside down spur. I then decided to transform it back to plane mode so I can keep it in the box before it starts to fall apart and lucky me, THE SHOULDER HINGE BROKE!!! Well, not the whole piece, only a small piece of plastic where the metal pin ends. The shoulder is still intact and I can still transform the Valk without it falling off but I guess it's only a matter of time before the whole thing fails. The right arm is currently fine but there is what looks like really fine hairline cracks or maybe it's just the plastic texture I can't tell for now. So that's it guys, Yamato has been at the valky game for decades and they couldn't even solve one simple QC issue. I really love the VF1S so this has been a really HUGE disappointment for me. This is probably my sixth or seventh times transforming it that's by any standards that's not unreasonable amount of wear and tear on the toy. Any ways to get a replacement shoulder? I really love this toy and it would really sucks if I have to buy a whole new vf1s just because of an small and easily replaceable part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
schmungbeen Posted November 26, 2008 Share Posted November 26, 2008 Depending on the supplier you can normally get replacement parts I think. I go through HLJ, and they are trying to get a hold of a replacement part for me, though I dont know how you would go about replacing it on this valk! (the shoulder swing thing). I feel your pain with respect to Yamato though - the other day I sort of snapped one of the nozzles off the foot on my VF-1S. Easily fixable fortunately - I think there was only a light glue on mine out of the factory - and honestly now the valk is a little sturdier. I am almost thinking the 1/48's (aside from the missiles and lack of tampo printing) are a better built toy - perhaps the size makes little things sturdier. Yes I am aware of the floppiness when transforming, but when in the modes themselves the thing was a gem (all of the ones I own). Personally, I will still get the 1/60s - the extra bit of cheapness and some of the nicer details (like the UV cockpit, tampo printing, beautiful modes etc). I just hope they fix the 1/60 Focker shoulders. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leon Posted December 3, 2008 Share Posted December 3, 2008 thanks yamato for nothing!!! My VF-1A shoulder just have a crack line!!! and its on the left one,and it is on the thicker metal pin side,n too i had already loosen screws!it happen during my transformation from fighter to gerwalk. Bro here with the problem,can check with u guys,i had applied some super glue from those gundam kit,do u guys think its ok for using that type of glue? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m0n5t3r Posted December 3, 2008 Share Posted December 3, 2008 wow, first 1A casualty... are the pins' thicker spur side on the same side? top or bottom? i don't have the 1A. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leon Posted December 3, 2008 Share Posted December 3, 2008 wow, first 1A casualty... are the pins' thicker spur side on the same side? top or bottom? i don't have the 1A. Its on the top when in robot mode. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m0n5t3r Posted December 3, 2008 Share Posted December 3, 2008 what about the right shoulder hinge, on the top too in b-mode? i think epoxy would be better coz it'll act as a filler to the crack. i don't think you'll be able to glue and then press the two sides of the crack together. that might just make it worse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruskiiVFaussie Posted December 3, 2008 Share Posted December 3, 2008 f me dead, a 1A casuality. hope the 1J has had a seeing too, it's been a couple or so months in between releases compared to the 1A... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eugimon Posted December 3, 2008 Share Posted December 3, 2008 what about the right shoulder hinge, on the top too in b-mode? i think epoxy would be better coz it'll act as a filler to the crack. i don't think you'll be able to glue and then press the two sides of the crack together. that might just make it worse. I did the epoxy thing. It works for a while but the hinge isn't the same and it juts out a little bit causing it to catch on the little stop bracket. Eventually it will fail again due to the stress from being pulled on and from the stress of hitting and catching while it's being swung up and down. You can try filing down the outside of the hinge so that it has a smooth movement and doesn't catch as much, or you can do what I do and fashion a metal brace for the inside of the hinge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leon Posted December 3, 2008 Share Posted December 3, 2008 what about the right shoulder hinge, on the top too in b-mode? i think epoxy would be better coz it'll act as a filler to the crack. i don't think you'll be able to glue and then press the two sides of the crack together. that might just make it worse. Just to comfirm,epoxy is something that have a "A" mix with "B" and it will harden right?sorry because i m not too sure what it is... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eugimon Posted December 3, 2008 Share Posted December 3, 2008 Just to comfirm,epoxy is something that have a "A" mix with "B" and it will harden right?sorry because i m not too sure what it is... yup. If you use it, be exact with amounts since if you're off the epoxy won't be hard it will just be oily and gummy and then it you'll need to do it over and clean the parts you want to epoxy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m0n5t3r Posted December 3, 2008 Share Posted December 3, 2008 (edited) yep. the other one is the hardener... seems eugimon has done the epoxy fix... maybe sanding or filing it after will help. (and painting it white ) so where's the right shoulder hinge pin spur side pointing? up or down? Edited December 3, 2008 by m0n5t3r Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leon Posted December 3, 2008 Share Posted December 3, 2008 yep. the other one is the hardener... seems eugimon has done the epoxy fix... maybe sanding or filing it after will help. (and painting it white ) so where's the right shoulder hinge pin spur side pointing? up or down? Eh...the right one i think its facing up,can't really comfirm as they look quite the same when it is not broken. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m0n5t3r Posted December 3, 2008 Share Posted December 3, 2008 (edited) Eh...the right one i think its facing up,can't really comfirm as they look quite the same when it is not broken. ok... well, good luck. BTW, i checked my 1J and it seems you can remove the shoulder hinge by removing the 3 screws on the backplate (opposite of the chestplate, i guess). 2 are the ones for fastening the wings, right and left side and the one in the middle bottom to fasten the metal swing bar. once you remove the screws, i'm guessing the two parts of the backplate can be separated to expose the shoulder hinge connection. hope this helps... i only tried to remove one of the screws for the wings to check if i can swap wings w/ modex #. Edited December 3, 2008 by m0n5t3r Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shin Densetsu Kai 7.0 Posted December 3, 2008 Share Posted December 3, 2008 After reading all of this, the 1/48 in my experience is easier to avoid breakages on. Just don't bend BP8 all the way and you should be good to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eugimon Posted December 3, 2008 Share Posted December 3, 2008 After reading all of this, the 1/48 in my experience is easier to avoid breakages on. Just don't bend BP8 all the way and you should be good to go. the 1/48 is a freaking tank compared to everything yamato has done since. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ff95gj Posted December 3, 2008 Share Posted December 3, 2008 I agree... I am totally comfortable with my 1/48s; but I have some concerns when dealing my 1/60s (including VF-0A). The 1/60 v2 is too tight to my taste in many places. I hate it when forces (any) are required... Maybe when the mold is used over and over again (like the 1/48s), things will get "smoother"? I have the plate thing (which covers the verniers of the backpack) come off when I transformed. It's pretty difficult to describe (excuse my poor English); in short it is because some joints are simply too tight. I have my 1/60s in the boxes and wait till the day I have time to take pictures for them (like the whole Skull team is released), or have space to display them. I do not enjoy transforming them at all! the 1/48 is a freaking tank compared to everything yamato has done since. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jenius Posted December 3, 2008 Share Posted December 3, 2008 Having had no 1/60v2 problems, and having owned tons of 1/48s and seen all manners of problems, I'm liking the 1/60v2 more. Sure, maybe the 1S and potentially more have issues but the first three 1/48s had nosecones that fell off in the wind, wing flaps that fell off almost as easily, loose airbrakes, etc. Now, all that stuff is just annoying, not as serious as a break, but if the shoulders are now truly fixed then I think the 1/60 easily trounces the 1/48. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VFTF1 Posted December 5, 2008 Share Posted December 5, 2008 (edited) I just transformed my V.2 1/60 VF-1S back to fighter mode (with super and strike parts) - and guess what? A) Didn't have to remove the missiles to transform him. In fact, the missiles didn't even budge B) The shoulder is not cracked and shows no sign of cracking and as long as you are careful and not impatient, it is hard to see how you can break it C) I didn't have to remove the head in order to transform it I agree with the previous statement that some of the joints a "too tight" - but the solution to this is just be patient. Don't force things - everything has to be in just the right positions for stuff to work. I am seriously thinking of opening up my second VF-1S now... hmm .... should I... shouldn't I...should I...shouldn't I? As for the 1/48 - yes, it is built like a tank and it is a very fine piece, but aesthetically it doesn't hold a candle to the VF-1S 1/60 v.2 The V.2 is better detailed, what with the tampoo printing, but also the mold/sculpt is more anime accurate and less ...well...sorry...but less CHUNKY. Yes - the 1/48 is the Chunky Monkey of the XXI century. If you compare it to the sleek and slender 1/60 v/2 in either fighter, gerwalk or battroid modes...the 1/48 just looks boxy by comparrison all around. It is a great technical achievement - I'm not knocking it - but the V.2 is just miles ahead in almost every department. The hands are not only bigger and more anime accurate, but they are not so complicated to fold in... I think this is really really well put together. The swing bar is super sturdy, doesn't flop around. I don't think I'm gonna be able to resist guys. I have to open my second one. Screw it. I am so tempted to put my two Roys together... Tempted... Tempted... Can't... Resist... Even though my V.2 VF-1A is probably gonna be in my hands in a week's time...I...still....need...to have...a third...Roy....can't...resist! *RUNS TO THE BOX TO OPEN IT AND CACKLE MADLY!* EDIT: Well - that took a little longer than expected, because I had to go mix up some epoxy glue and apply it to the cracked shoulder hinge on my second VF-1S But I STILL think he's beautiful and the shoulder defect is really minor. Hopefully the glue I used will seel it shut and keep it sturdy. Very nice. Wanting more Pete Edited December 18, 2008 by VFTF1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shin Densetsu Kai 7.0 Posted December 5, 2008 Share Posted December 5, 2008 B) The shoulder is not cracked and shows no sign of cracking and as long as you are careful and not impatient, it is hard to see how you can break it I can see how. Try moving the shoulders without bracing the hinge, look at the hinge closely while moving the shoulders, you can see how the hinge will be put under the strain of shoulder movement, it is simple a thin piece that should have been made out of POM or even diecast. The 1/48 has a thicker shoulder hinge of similar design, except that it is made out of POM(you can tell by feeling it, it is definitely more sturdy than ABS pieces like the wings, and it is bright white), and does not move sideways in or out in battroid mode, it remains in place. If the added articulation to enable sideways movement on the shoulder hinge is the true cause of the shoulders breaking, it simply was not worth adding. The added articulation really doesn't add much since the shoulders are on ball joints to begin with, and already have excellent range of motion. On future releases, the added articulation is truly the culprit I'd like to see a retooled design where the hinge just remains in place in battroid mode like the 1/48. The hands are not only bigger and more anime accurate, but they are not so complicated to fold in... I think this is really really well put together. The swing bar is super sturdy, doesn't flop around. The way the hands swivel in is very impressive. It is also funny that the hands are the exact same size as the ones one the 1/48! Yes - the 1/48 is the Chunky Monkey of the XXI century. If you compare it to the sleek and slender 1/60 v/2 in either fighter, gerwalk or battroid modes...the 1/48 just looks boxy by comparrison all around. It is a great technical achievement - I'm not knocking it - but the V.2 is just miles ahead in almost every department. The new 1/60 is a better toy all around except for the shoulder hinge. Why? It is because the shoulder hinge on the 1/48 does not break(I have NEVER heard of a breakage on the 1/48's shoulder hinges). In a way, they are even; the bp8 is a part to be watched on the 1/48 while the shoulder hinges should be monitored on the new 1/60. However, under casual or even extensive handling, the Bp8 is far less worrying than the 1/60 shoulder hinge. With the Bp8, just make sure to never move it beyond the stopper. With the 1/60 shoulder hinge, always lift the shoulder hinge above the stopper during transformation to and from gerwalk/battroid mode, and either brace the shoulder hinges, or loosen the screws on the shoulders on backplate, then pray that yours either doesn't break, or develop a hairline crack like on mine. Honestly when I first opened mine, I did see a small line on the hinge, I thought it was just a mold line, then months later I could feel it, and realized it was a damn hairline crack. Still hasn't broken yet, I do pose it, but I am disappointed so much; why? It is because ironically, this is my favorite modern day VF-1 toy, I love it, it is so much better than the 1/48 in almost every category(except for the shorter nose and the hinge situation), but the fact that I already have a hairline crack on mine, and that mine may eventually break, well that hightens my discontent. Again, on the 1/48, you did not have to worry about the shoulder hinge at all, hell you could even it push it past the stopper and not worry about it breaking! I wish the same could have happened on the new 1/60. I hope Yamato decides to do whatever they did with the 1/48 shoulder hinge, apply it to the new 1/60, and hell I could care less about the shorter nose, the new 1/60 will be better than it already is in my eyes! Oh and for those who think it is fragile, it's just that damn hinge you have to worry about. Other than that it is very, very solid, and addicting to pose in gerwalk/battroid mode. It is just a shame that a cheap pin or idiot at the factory is the cause of this toy breaking. It really is sad. I have studied this toy extensively and compared it to my 1/48 extensively, the way the armor is attached and removed on this new 1/60 is very satisfying, it is obvious that Yamato knew that their demographic, the older mecha heads like us, would be playing with this thing. The main reason people are disappointed with Yamato is because it is obvious that Yamato can make durable toys, hell that is just obvious by handling the new 1/60. Making a indestructbile shoulder hinge for it ought to be relatively easy for them. I have faith in them to pull them off, the only question is why didn't they catch it in time before the release of the 1S? Just fix the hinges Yamato, and I will buy more! I honestly think they already started with the 1J, those shoulder hinges, if you look closely, look like a brighter white than the rest of the pieces on the toy, other than the diecast pieces that connect the chest with the backplate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VFTF1 Posted December 5, 2008 Share Posted December 5, 2008 Well if that's true - that the hinges on the 1Js are fixed - then I hope they go back and fix the 1Ss later. I LOVE the 1S for all the reasons you give. In fact, I was just comparing it now battroid to battroid to the 0S from Zero. And you know what? I used to think Zero was so slick - and that it was so awesome - but side by side - Zero S looks clunky; like a real prototype of sorts. The VF-1 is just such a classy design - it's mind boggling. And the v.2 really shows that. So yeah - fix that hinge Yamato: because dag - the rest of the figure is super super super durable - that's for sure. Very very well done. But I want to have like - a lot of 1Ss With good shoulders. So far I'm 1 for 1 Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shin Densetsu Kai 7.0 Posted December 6, 2008 Share Posted December 6, 2008 I used to think Zero was so slick - and that it was so awesome - but side by side - Zero S looks clunky; like a real prototype of sorts. The VF-1 is just such a classy design - it's mind boggling. And the v.2 really shows that. I actually like the clunkiness of the VF-0 and the sleekness of the VF-1. I love the VF-0 design in the anime, it bridges the gap between a conventional engine regular fighter to a nuclear powered variable fighter. I look at it as the step in between the F-14 Tomcat and VF-1 Valkyrie. It just reaks of a fighter that was never meant for prolonged combat, but adapted to it anyways, and that is what happened in Macross Zero. So yeah - fix that hinge Yamato: because dag - the rest of the figure is super super super durable - that's for sure. Very very well done. EXACTLY Seriously the shoulder hinge should not be hard for them to make durable, they managed to outdo their 1/48 with the all new 1/60, and make the 1/60 YF-21 sleek, like I said before, those are ambitious efforts on their part and they succeeded, a measley shoulder hinge should not be difficult at all for them to make durable, especially when everything else on the 1/60 is basically worry free(even the intake tabs, just make sure to bend the hips/intakes inwards before pulling the hip bar out to go to battroid mode, this makes sure the tabs will not snap off). The tabs on the backplate that go into the legs? Twist the lower legs inwards before pulling down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VFTF1 Posted December 6, 2008 Share Posted December 6, 2008 (edited) I actually like the clunkiness of the VF-0 and the sleekness of the VF-1. I love the VF-0 design in the anime, it bridges the gap between a conventional engine regular fighter to a nuclear powered variable fighter. I look at it as the step in between the F-14 Tomcat and VF-1 Valkyrie. It just reaks of a fighter that was never meant for prolonged combat, but adapted to it anyways, and that is what happened in Macross Zero. Well, here's ol' Roy's first love next to his newer, younger, sleeker model I do like how they actually are not that radically off kilter in terms of size - although the VF-1 is smaller; it is only slightly smaller in battroid mode, and indeed looks sleeker. And the arms actually have...you know...armor plating As for the shoulder hinges on the 1S V.2.... Willing to let it slide as long as all of the other Js As and the Hikaru red 1S are problem free. Especially since my other 1S fokker is perfect with no shoulder problem at all. Pete Edited December 18, 2008 by VFTF1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m0n5t3r Posted December 6, 2008 Share Posted December 6, 2008 (edited) the hands for me is indeed one of the most noticable and most welcome improvement. hate the middle to pinky configuration of the old chicken hands. agreed, the more humanoid proportions of the v.2 VF-1 is definitely nicer, better... (VF-0S looks like a WWE wrestler compared to the VF-1) Edited December 6, 2008 by m0n5t3r Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jepoyako Posted January 7, 2009 Share Posted January 7, 2009 Originally voted perfect, pages ago. Now have to report more broken sholder hinges. That's right, both right and left hinges on my V.2 1/60 VF-1S have cracks! They haven't fallen off yet but, this sucks... This is after ~5 transformations. I usually keep mine in fighter mode. Yesterday, I transformed it to show my cousin. That went fine. This morning I thought, "lemmie check the shoulder hinges to see how they are doing." So now, my day is ruined! I hope my 1A and 1J hold up better. Haven't transformed them yet... I'll have to go back and re-read this whole post to try and find remedy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
logos Posted January 8, 2009 Share Posted January 8, 2009 (edited) I treat my VF-1S like a pampered princes there is no way I should have a shoulder crack....but guess what, checked my VF-1S today and cracks on BOTH shoulder hinges! Argh! Guess I am going to have to dig into my manual and find the part number for those pieces so I can order them from Overdrive tomorrow. They aren't broke yet and I thought I was treating them gingerly....... this makes me so fricken mad! Hopefully this won't cost me more than 20 bucks for parts and shipping then. FYI I love this toy but for $100+ this breakage really pisses me off! I am so waiting on the VF-11B now to see if anyone reports any problems. Edited January 8, 2009 by logos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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