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New but not brand-new...


viperbite

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Well... it's been sooooooooo long since I posted my last work here... To say sorry to you guys, I bring you new stuff.

I can't tell that it's my brand new work,but it was finished last fall, the whole production time was like two weeks. The kit was build out of box, while building this I felt Hasegawa did make a good kit...

I used pre-shading with regular shading during my painting job, and it looked pretty well... Hope you like it.

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The other two were also my old works, I build the B version for VF-31 Tomcatters and the A version for Top Gun Aggressor.

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Edited by viperbite
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:lol:

Well...I cannot say I have tips or tricks... but I do have something that can be shared... hope that can be helpful.

First, you probably need to strengthen this area, carefully drill and a steel wire would be enough.

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Making these holes would do fine for the final effect

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And I also cut the fingers individually to make a good fit and effect

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That is some amazing work. Your model looks really nice, and your photography skills are impressive as well. You should be very proud of this finished work and frankly, I'm floored by it. There is one naggling thing that I keep noticing tho that keeps it from being effectively perfect... there is some visible decal film, especially around the decals on the dark surfaces like the FPs and leg fins... there is some silvering under some of these decals, and it detracts from the overall very professional look of the model. I don't know if you used it or not, but an application or two of decal setting and/or softening solutions would blend those decals right into the dark surfaces, especially if the decals were applied to a glossy surface that you then matte-coated to further blend the decals in and make them look painted on.

I personally can't wait to see more work from you!

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Thank you promethuem5, the things you pointed out did nag me, but frankly, I did use decal softer for them, but didn't work very well, especially on the dark color area, I guess a gloss coat under the decals is the ideal way. :(

And let's continue...

After the assemble, I used Gunze's Mr. White Surface 1000 for coating, it coule help you to check if there is anything not that good on the surface and can be as the color paniting basis, especially for the rubber parts.

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I used Alclad 2 Jet Exhaust mixed with some drops of Pale Burnt Metal for the metal color.

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Then I made the pre-shading, I used Gunze's Navy blue and NATO Brown.

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I used Gunze's c318 Light Grey mixed with some white for the basic color.

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Then I used even whiter grey for the high-light areas, and NATO Black for the strips, for me, pure black is too black. In the actual world nothing is pure black due to a lot of reasons esecially the sun light and air.

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Thank you promethuem5, the things you pointed out did nag me, but frankly, I did use decal softer for them, but didn't work very well, especially on the dark color area, I guess a gloss coat under the decals is the ideal way.

Hasegawa decals and decal solutions usually don't mix anyways... They're really an odd duck at times.

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There is one naggling thing that I keep noticing tho that keeps it from being effectively perfect... there is some visible decal film, especially around the decals on the dark surfaces like the FPs and leg fins...

I didn't even notice those until I read this post! Good eyes, promethuem5!

Still, even with the flaws, the kit looks amazing!

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  • 3 weeks later...

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