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Flat Clear Coat -- What do the experts use?


Skull-1
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(I accidentally posted this over in Customizing. Please delete that one not this one.)

I would love to know what our Valkyrie model experts use to flatten the paint on their models.

I heard that Gunz-Sanyo (or whatever it is called) is non-yellowing.

Well, I heard that about Kyrlon Matte Finish Clearcoat and found it to yellow with time. It didn't give me the flat finish I wanted any way so that one is out the window.

Does anyone have GENUINE experience with a TESTOR'S DULLCOTE *EQUIVALENT* that will not yellow? I am talking raw flat, not matte, not glossy, but *FLAT*. That Gunz product has me particularly curious. Does it yellow with time on white paint?

Many thanks in advance for your help.

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Most people will tell you to mix future with a flat base (like Tamiya) and spray it on. You should be able to find some web-sites that have the correct ratios on mixing it. Works wonders and have never heard a complaint about it in the last 5 years that I've known the technique.

Edited by Duymon
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Some of the problem may be with the white paint too. I know a lot of modelers add a touch of blue to the white paint to avoid yellowing.

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Anyone else?

Mr. Cheng?

Anyone?

Will have to try that dot of blue in the white paint. Will that make it turn GREEN instead of yellow? LOL :)

Edited by Skull-1
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Anyone else?

Mr. Cheng?

Anyone?

Will have to try that dot of blue in the white paint. Will that make it turn GREEN instead of yellow? LOL :)

Why not just put a dot of yellow in :p At least then you wouldnt have to wait.

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  • 1 month later...

I use the Model master flat. With any clearcoat, what I've found and tested is the amount that is sprayed on. I've found that some of the clearcoats seem to almost cook the paint. It may be some sort of chemical reaction, but what it looks like is that the more clearcoat you spray, the more yellow it becomes. There is a fine line that I've been able to do that lets you put spray your coat out, and it doesn't yellow white color at all. Best bet is to spray a junk piece white, and test out the various clears. Can't tell how much I've spent on finding what works for me. but light coats they always say, I would double that for clearcoats. :D

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but something like Micro-Flat brushes on glossy...

Micro-Flat users:

Does this actually work!? I've tried brushing and spraying; both with little success. The last spray was over Future and it barely put a dent into the Future shine...

Any pointers for this Micro-Flat noob?

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I've been TOLD that Micro-Flat will airbrush on flat, but I'd believe you if you said it won't...

Maybe that's the problem! It is pretty darn thick; after thinning it with water no doubt I've just diluted that much it doesn't dull the shine...

Thanks p5

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For a flat finish I use Testors Dull Cote. For a Semi-gloss/Satin finish, I use Tamiya Flat Base mixed with Future and shot through an airbrush. It takes a little experimenting to get the right level of "glossiness" but shoots nicely.

Edited by azrhino
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Most people will tell you to mix future with a flat base (like Tamiya) and spray it on. You should be able to find some web-sites that have the correct ratios on mixing it. Works wonders and have never heard a complaint about it in the last 5 years that I've known the technique.

1st use, 1st complaint :(

I sprayed about 1:8 flat base:Future on my black S-37. Now the beautiful black finish looks like it has been dusted with light grey? wtf? Please tell me it dries clear...

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1st use, 1st complaint :(

I sprayed about 1:8 flat base:Future on my black S-37. Now the beautiful black finish looks like it has been dusted with light grey? wtf? Please tell me it dries clear...

Tamiya Flat Base seems to work well with Tamiya Gloss paints but I've had limited sucess using it to make Future flat. Limited in that the best I've ever gotten is a nice satin finish.

And yes, it dried clearer than it sprayed.

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  • 2 weeks later...

When I have finished painting a model I usually give it a coat of straight future (which makes it shiney) to act as a base for decal application. Having a smooth glossy surface really makes the decals go on easy. After that, some decal setting solution and another coat of future and what ever weathering I am doing and then I usually top it with Testor's Dullcoat. To prevent yellowing problems I put a single drop of blue paint in every bottle of white I buy before I use it. Mix it really well and you will never see the blue in the white or any yellowing later either. On an unrelated note: Drop a couple of BBs in the bottle with the drop of blue. It won't stop yellowing but the next time you use the paint it will help mix it when you are shaking the bottle. I do this with all my paints and it makes mixing a bottle you have not used in 6 months a lot easier.

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When I have finished painting a model I usually give it a coat of straight future (which makes it shiney) to act as a base for decal application. Having a smooth glossy surface really makes the decals go on easy. After that, some decal setting solution and another coat of future and what ever weathering I am doing and then I usually top it with Testor's Dullcoat. To prevent yellowing problems I put a single drop of blue paint in every bottle of white I buy before I use it. Mix it really well and you will never see the blue in the white or any yellowing later either. On an unrelated note: Drop a couple of BBs in the bottle with the drop of blue. It won't stop yellowing but the next time you use the paint it will help mix it when you are shaking the bottle. I do this with all my paints and it makes mixing a bottle you have not used in 6 months a lot easier.

Thanks for the tips.

One question though what do you thin your Future with ? Or do you just air brush it neat. I was thinking of trying it with Distilled Water, as a thinning agent

Edited by big F
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I don't thin the future. I want a nice glossy coat to act as a base for decal application and to be a barrier between my original paint job and any weathering I do. I put a second coat between the decals and the weathering so any weathered effects on the decals like chipping has to be done 1st. More than once I have made a mistake while weathering and the future let me correct it without having to worry about the paint job. If you are doing a wash the future is a good base for this too as the smooth surface will help the wash flow into seems. Just make sure to clean your airbrush really well after using it to put the future on.

Another thing future is great for is giving the cockpit canopy a glassy look. This probably isn't news to anyone but just in case I will tell it anyway. Take the canopy and dip it in future. Pull it out slowly so you get a nice even coating. Holding it at an angle as you pull it out so that a corner is the last part out helps. You can touch the corner to a rag to remove the small amout of excess future that usually pools there. This gives a nice finish when dry and is a lot easier than using a buffing compound.

Edited by Replicant Mechanic
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I thin my Future with about 10% Tamiya thinner. Seems to help it go down smoother.

Than and my Future has gotten thicker over the last few years.

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