Roy's Blues Posted January 19, 2007 Share Posted January 19, 2007 Best looking fix so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
takatoys Posted January 19, 2007 Share Posted January 19, 2007 And don't forget to try the neck shield also done with the spray can cap. It makes a big difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom64ss Posted January 19, 2007 Share Posted January 19, 2007 (edited) I just fixed the gunpod in three steps. Very easy fix, no glue necessary. 1.Cut a small piece of plastic from a spray can cap. It has the right thickness and you can give it shape with a pair of scissors. 2.Make a little hole so the piece snaps in place on the left arm. 3. Put the gunpod as it goes and that's it, straight fit. I sense a great disturbance in the Force. It's as though thousands of spray paint can caps were just mutilated at the same time. Great fix Takatoys. Works perfect. Edited January 19, 2007 by tom64ss Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wicked Ace Posted January 20, 2007 Author Share Posted January 20, 2007 Good job takatoys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
takatoys Posted January 20, 2007 Share Posted January 20, 2007 Good job takatoys! Thanks I hope you can fix the gunpod issue the way I did it. For me, it works. Let's see if it works for everyone else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roy's Blues Posted January 20, 2007 Share Posted January 20, 2007 (edited) I took Takatoys Idea and modified it. Instead of using a paint can lid, I used a DVD+R 25 stack lid. It's clear. Please forgive the pic quality, but I've been hitting the yoshinol this evening. No glue was used for this mod. I driled the hole a little smaller than the peg for a tight fit. I also cut it as close as possible, for an exact fit. Somebody get NightmareB4macross to make a some for everyone. Edited January 20, 2007 by Roy's Blues Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fly4victory Posted January 20, 2007 Share Posted January 20, 2007 Somebody get NightmareB4macross to make a some for everyone. That plus the black neck cover for fighter mode. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom64ss Posted January 20, 2007 Share Posted January 20, 2007 Somebody get NightmareB4macross to make a some for everyone. That plus the black neck cover for fighter mode. I hope you guys are kidding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wicked Ace Posted January 20, 2007 Author Share Posted January 20, 2007 (edited) Believe me, I'd rather be posting pictures of modifications/improvements rather than fixes, but I got unlucky with my second -19. The quick rundown: 1. This thing broke upon very first transformation (note: I am experienced in transforming the -19, not a newbie); 2. I noticed the locking pegs were more pronounced than on my other -19; and 3. I've repaired the gray fuselage pivot holdown and filed down the offending pegs. Here are pictures of the repaired part, followed by where I filed to relieve undue pressure/effort on the fuselage: Edited January 20, 2007 by Wicked Ace Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wicked Ace Posted January 20, 2007 Author Share Posted January 20, 2007 (edited) I was fortunate in that both fuselage pivots did not break, so I was able to use a decent "glue weld" on the broken pivot hold-down. Note: this repair job looks messy, because I tried three different common glues to see what worked. I don't recommend the model glue or the Krazy Glue for this job -- the Seal All does the trick -- perhaps others can chime in on what's good, too. Anyway, this repair is rock solid as of now -- I'll post up if it breaks after a few more lock/unlock tests. I hope nobody else has to go through this fix, but hopefully my posts will help if need be. If I choose to clean up this repair job with Tamiya model putty, I'll post up pictures. Edited January 20, 2007 by Wicked Ace Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
do not disturb Posted January 20, 2007 Share Posted January 20, 2007 well the bright side is atleast you were able to fix it. as far as which glue, i only use binary epoxy. it doesn't melt the plastic in order for it to bond like krazy glue and the like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wicked Ace Posted January 21, 2007 Author Share Posted January 21, 2007 as far as which glue, i only use binary epoxy. it doesn't melt the plastic in order for it to bond like krazy glue and the like. Did you include some of this stuff with the -19s you were selling? Seriously, is there a particular brand you like to use, if so maybe you'd be kind enough to post a picture of it, so others can know what to look for, should the need arise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dobber Posted January 21, 2007 Share Posted January 21, 2007 2 part epoxy should be fine also right? Also, should I remove the grey peice or just put the epoxy right on top of the peice. I know that by doing it that way the peice won't beable to be removed would that matter? Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyp Durron Posted January 21, 2007 Share Posted January 21, 2007 I already have two-part 5 minute epoxy handy, hopefully, I will never be forced to use it. -Kyp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat S Posted January 21, 2007 Share Posted January 21, 2007 takatoys: How do the wing flaps you made connect? I was trying to think of a way to do it without them being being loose, but I can't... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wicked Ace Posted January 21, 2007 Author Share Posted January 21, 2007 2 part epoxy should be fine also right? Also, should I remove the grey peice or just put the epoxy right on top of the peice. I know that by doing it that way the peice won't beable to be removed would that matter? Chris Remove the gray piece and put the epoxy on it, then, after the epoxy has cured, screw it back down. I would check to see if this is enough, but in my case it wasn't, as my piece was completely snapped at the screw hole. If need by for added strength, add epoxy in the wedge the gray piece seats in. Note, this part will no longer be removable, so if you need to take the fuselage hinge apart, you'll have to unscrew the other gray piece. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hingtgen Posted January 22, 2007 Share Posted January 22, 2007 I can confirm the hinge will still come apart with one piece still glued in... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
takatoys Posted January 22, 2007 Share Posted January 22, 2007 (edited) takatoys: How do the wing flaps you made connect? I was trying to think of a way to do it without them being being loose, but I can't... The only way to connect them is by using a pair of sewing needles or similar. I cut the flaps with x-acto knife and dremel with a cut-off wheel. You can cut the tip of the flaps with the knife. But the end of the flaps is too thick so the cut-off wheel is required. That left a big gap that I had to complete with a small piece of plastic of similar color. I sanded the little pieces with the dremel tool, glued and pinned them. You need to drill the little holes with a tiny drilling bit, the ones found in a hobby shop. Any mistakes on cutting and drilling and you can ruin the flaps. It is not an easy job so I do not recommend this customization to everyone. The last thing I need to do is to apply my custom stickers that will be ready very soon, so wait a few days for more pictures Edited July 12, 2008 by takatoys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wicked Ace Posted January 22, 2007 Author Share Posted January 22, 2007 Takatoys' gunpod fix works great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dangard Ace Posted January 22, 2007 Share Posted January 22, 2007 Tear-down: three screws hold the lower leg together. Note: be careful when separating the lower leg halves as there is a peg just forward of the vertical stabilizer (or tail) that can be broken off if you try to rip the halves apart at an angle. Sonuvabitch. Stripped one of the screws in the leg. Anybody know what size/type screws these are? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knight26 Posted January 22, 2007 Share Posted January 22, 2007 I wonder how long it will be before someone mods a YF-19 to be able to do the high speed mode. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
do not disturb Posted January 22, 2007 Share Posted January 22, 2007 Did you include some of this stuff with the -19s you were selling? Seriously, is there a particular brand you like to use, if so maybe you'd be kind enough to post a picture of it, so others can know what to look for, should the need arise. theres a 100 different brands of binary epoxy out there, i just buy whatever dries clear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat S Posted January 24, 2007 Share Posted January 24, 2007 The only way to connect them is by using a pair of sewing needles or similar. I cut the flaps with x-acto knife and dremel with a cut-off wheel. You can cut the tip of the flaps with the knife. But the end of the flaps is too thick so the cut-off wheel is required. That left a big gap that I had to complete with a small piece of plastic of similar color. I sanded the little pieces with the dremel tool, glued and pinned them. You need to drill the little holes with a tiny drilling bit, the ones found in a hobby shop. Any mistakes on cutting and drilling and you can ruin the flaps. It is not an easy job so I do not recommend this customization to everyone. The last thing I need to do is to apply my custom stickers that will be ready very soon, so wait a few days for more pictures Thank you, I already cut mine off, but won't reattatch until I have a day off this weekend. So, just using the sewing needle, they don't fall down when the YF-19 is parked with wheels down, or fall up when the YF-19 is upside down? It already looks good when I hold the pieces in place because ou get that detail of the part seperation. Anyways, do all of the YF-19's flaps work individually? Maybe I'll have them all movable with a wire going through each piece, though drilling might be a challenge. I have this stuff from the hobby store, it's a super strong metal bar maybe 2 or 3 times the diameter of pencil lead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emajnthis Posted January 24, 2007 Share Posted January 24, 2007 (edited) Because i was completely uncomfortable with the thorough explanation of the "shoulder fix" that i posted in the other YF-19 thread, i decided to find a different/better way to do it that does not necessitate breaking modifying and then fixing to get the shoulders to sit flush. Please give me about 20 or so minutes to get pictures taken and to confirm that this is 100% functional before posting the fix. The good news is the fix (once it's completely confirmed) does not involve you to break anything. Bad news is, i'm not sure if it's due to the singular modification or multiple modifications as there was about three or four different things i did to get the shoulders to sit completely flush without me fidgeting with them. *edit* Okay, my photography and camera suck so i decided to steal one of graham's pictures and just circle the part that needs modifying. The inside of the "calf" of the YF-19 is too thick, so when you put it in fighter mode, the tension of the calf pushes on the inside of the shoulder forcing it to pop up. Because both of my shoulder's were modified ahead of time, you may need to modify both sides of the calf in order to make it wide enough for the shoulder to fit flush. Just make sure you're careful and don't compromise the overall shape of the leg. I'm very pleased to see both shoulders sitting very flush in fighter mode; it might sound confusing especially since the picture isn't that good, so hopefully i'll be able to get a really good shot of the 19 and the modification tomorrow (it's midnight where i'm at). Edited January 24, 2007 by emajnthis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hingtgen Posted January 24, 2007 Share Posted January 24, 2007 I just had my -19 apart doing the main gear mod (annoyingly, Yamato has the wheel offset from the strut so far, that when you angle the gear out correctly the wheel touches the gear door). The wheel can be removed from the axle, but even if you sanded down the metal strut itself, I don't know how you could stop the wheel from still going to the end of the axle. Maybe ultra-micro washers, but even my coupler height washers for model trains are too big. Anyways, I also thought the "insides of the calves" may be the problem, and was thinking about thinning them. Also, the shoulder seems almost impossible to get apart, and the risk of breaking it is high, so I was looking for an alternate mod to lower the shoulders. When I first got it I thought the calves were the problem, so now I plan to go back to them. I'm saving the gunpod for last I think, seems to be the most complex/3D problem, with probably a combination of issues causing the problem. Question to everyone: anyone found a fix for the rear tab on the right wing constantly popping out of the leg in fighter mode? I currently think it's actually caused by the wing's forward tab being under stress, so I'm gradually sanding it down, but I'm having trouble determining WHERE to sand. (Don't want to sand too much, or the front one will be loose, and then there'll be even more problems) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emajnthis Posted January 24, 2007 Share Posted January 24, 2007 Question to everyone: anyone found a fix for the rear tab on the right wing constantly popping out of the leg in fighter mode? I currently think it's actually caused by the wing's forward tab being under stress, so I'm gradually sanding it down, but I'm having trouble determining WHERE to sand. (Don't want to sand too much, or the front one will be loose, and then there'll be even more problems) I found that once you relieve the tension on the shoulders the rear wing root tabs go in very tightly. From my visual inspection, the shoulders were crammed too tightly inbetween the wingroot and the rear calf causing it not only to pop up but also the wingroot (on mine it was both sides but especially the right side) to pop out. Since my shoulders were modified to be slightly thinner, you may want to look into sanding down part of the wing root very lightly that is closest to the outside of the shoulder to see if it relieves tension. I'm glad you didn't take your shoulders apart; like i already said, it is very uncomfortable to tell someone to break their shoulder, modify it, then glue it back together; which is why i went on a mission to discover a better way through the calf. When i look back on it, i wish i wasn't filled with such haste and just studied the design more to find the calf problem in the first place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
takatoys Posted January 25, 2007 Share Posted January 25, 2007 (edited) Well, I managed to fix both, the shoulder sitting flush and the gap of the swivel and shoulder. It did not require to dismantle the whole shoulder, but you need certain skills handling a dremel and the drill. As you can see in the picture, you need to create space from inside, so the shoulder itself can be pushed forward to the swivel and thus, eliminating the gap. This modification fixed both the gap and the shoulder sitting flush. No need to take the arm apart too, I just did it so you can see the modification better. Be careful when sanding the excess plastic with the drill, try smoothing it down with the x-acto knife There is a minimal gap between the end of the shoulder and leg, but it is barely noticable. Now my YF-19 looks perfect in fighter mode. Right shoulder fixed Both shoulders fixed No gap!!! Now it looks perfect, next project: custom stickers Edited July 12, 2008 by takatoys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emajnthis Posted January 25, 2007 Share Posted January 25, 2007 (edited) very nice *edit* I tried it, and it works pretty good. Since i already had my shoulders apart, it was even easier to do. Edited January 25, 2007 by emajnthis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
promethuem5 Posted January 25, 2007 Share Posted January 25, 2007 Taka, that is an extremely ingenious fix, and looks great one completed, but I wonder if it will affect durability at all... If not I just might try it myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
holytoledo69 Posted January 25, 2007 Share Posted January 25, 2007 Has anyone tried to "lock" the torso in place with mods or with some kind of clip? I know that sounds stupid. I can live with the gerwalk mode not locking down but the non-locking torso puts me off a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
takatoys Posted January 25, 2007 Share Posted January 25, 2007 (edited) The shoulder fix is not difficult to do if you have the proper tools. A Dremel is the best tool for sanding and drilling and gives you better control. Fortunately, the modification is from inside of the shoulder and practically unnoticed in all modes. Don't worry, the shoulder cover won't fall apart if you do it right. Good luck. Edited January 25, 2007 by takatoys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aegis! Posted January 25, 2007 Share Posted January 25, 2007 Wow! I don´t know if I´m more impressed by all these awesome fixes or by the sheer number of problems the 19 seems to have I wanted to ask all of the modeling Guru´s here if it would be possible to make a mod so the YF-19 can do the High speed mode pose. I guess that´s a pretty difficult mod to thinck of given the wing structure of this bird but that´s why I come here in search for Enlightenment. Thanks all of you for your patience Aegis! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
takatoys Posted January 25, 2007 Share Posted January 25, 2007 It can be done but only if someone casts a different type of wing, like this resin kit: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myk Posted January 25, 2007 Share Posted January 25, 2007 And even then the wing would probably have to be pulled out and replaced, as there is no room for the wing to pivot backwards into the body of the fighter... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hingtgen Posted January 26, 2007 Share Posted January 26, 2007 I don't think that kit can transform, so it can have the wing slice right through the legs and head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.