Converting a Valk

[0Coota0]

I'm thinking about customizing either a Yamato 1/60 or an MPC into a low viz. I'm wondering if there is a reeason to use one over the other. I also have never done this before what all do I need and can anyone tell me what I'm getting myself into?

[kanata67]

if you are just re-painting the toy... Besides saying use primer...

From what I gather yammies are more prone to paint chipping than the MPC, though I have never removed my MPC from box as I fear them pulling a spawn toy desintergration when exposed to air. I do know that due to the electronics the MPC is more of a pain to diss-assemble, if you plan on diss-assembling it prior to painting.

Painting a custom valk isn't that big of a project, though many start out with a bootleg or a junker first time. Kidkorrupt's web site has some great examples including a rooster valk that is just to funny. As long as you prime and seal when done, it should be smooth sailing. As for what you will need... I'm thinking

paint brushes

paint

spray primer [i recommend citadel]

spray matte sealer [again I recommend citadel]

a small phillips screw driver so you can disassemble before priming any areas that would be hard to paint otherwise, like the insides of a 1/55 legs that you can see if you squint into the hole behind the lowered landing gear for instance

Patientce.

good luck and post progress pics.

[sbarrett4]

to add to the topic, what color(s) would you use to make a low-vis valk? I was thinking of just using Rustoleum grey primer that I already have as the base/primary coat and adding any detail work over that. Is there a better color to use?

[AL11]

Rustoleum nooooo

I've experimented with the big rattle can primers, but they really aren't meant for models or small projects like customizing valks. The tooth is just way too course for the small pieces. -real rough. Even if you sand after spraying, the outcome won't be as nice if you use a fine surface primer. I use tamiya fine surface primer. Can't go wrong with it and it comes in grey and white. I still run some steel wool over parts after priming with this primer, and the surface is ultra smooth afterward. But not too smooth, because the paint still needs some tooth to hold on to. I say, if you're going to put some good time and spend a little money on this project, might as well do it right. As far as colors, try mixing your own colors to get that trully custom look. I rarely use colors straight out of the bottle. Take the original low vis valk(or see the review here at MW) and start with a mid-gray and then mix a little blue in, or light green, or both until you get the desired shade and mix in some grey with white to get a lighter grey. Have fun and be sure to post some pics for us when you're done!

AL11

[Guppy]

As far as dis-assembling an MPC goes, it's pretty much the same as a 1/55. The electronics don't pose much of a problem - I just made sure they were completely covered with masking tape before painting.

I'm about to start my first 1/60 custom too! I remember there was a site that had a good walk thru to taking one apart. Anyone know the link?

[Deadzone]

I agree with the Rustoleum except for a different reason. The Rustoleum I got was smooth enough for doing model work. However, it says that the thing is sandable. Yeah, the stuff sands right off. When I think of sandable, I think of something that can withstand a little sanding but still sticks. The Rustoleum just falls off. Oh well, only spent $3.50 on the can.