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Hasegawa VF-1A Build-up


Ido

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I think roy is closing it because there are already a good model and toy thread in this part there is no need for a how to thread. I have no real problem with it. Maybe he could consider moving some of the more relevant buildups and examples here so the information can still be accessed.

Your build is going great so far Ido i like the results you have achieved.

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I think roy is closing it because there are already a good model and toy thread in this part there is no need for a how to thread. I have no real problem with it. Maybe he could consider moving some of the more relevant buildups and examples hereĀ  so the information can still be accessed.

Your build is going great so far Ido i like the results you have achieved.

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Sanding and repainting the black part wasn't a problem but I wished to do a white wash to make out the details, however the wash didn't stayed on, there is something different to do with very light colors wash?

About sealing the canopy... I masktaped the cockpit borders with micron masking tape (1mm) and used modeler's mask-sol for the hard to reach area, the canopy will be covered with masking-sol and glued on using a little of liquid mask, I hope this time the paint don't make its way in the cockpit edges.

That's all for today, I'll continue it tomorrow.

Edited by Ido
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I tried both white and light gray but it doesn't remain on damn...

It means both the white & grey wash is too thin. Instead, try enamel silver. Even when thinned, it will stay on much better. After you've wiped off the excess, coat with flat coat & the silver will end up as grey.

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Which kit are ya doing exactly ya never posted it.

Hasegawa 1/72 Vf-1j/a/s

I will build it as DYRL version Kakizaki Vf-1A, landing gear down, pilot-less, canopy and airbreak closed.

The cockpit its sealed and the fuselage primed, now i'll do some of the parts that need to be painted before assembling such as exhausts, fans and intakes...

About the intakes fans, how they are supposed to looks like? Should I just go with chrome silver? :huh:

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About the intakes fans, how they are supposed to looks like? Should I just go with chrome silver? :huh:

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If they are anything like the fans on my PC they will quickly get quite dirty. Also I'm not sure what such fans would be made of, would they be metal or some sort of carbon fibre material? I think this is one for some of our aviation experts to sort out.

The model looks great so far, makes me want to break out some of my Hases, I've got about a dozen of them but haven't started any of them yet.

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Most intake fans are made of titanium. So a dull aluminum or steel with a light wash will look good enough once in the intake.

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Well, I metalized them with mr.metal color alinume(aluminum in engrish), Mr. metal color require a sealer so after a layer of gloss-cote I washed it with tamiya smoke enamel plus flat base, I'm happy with the results but I think it will be even better with stainless metalizer cause its less shiny.

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The picture just don't let you understand anyways.-.

You can also see the intakes/hands covers painted with dark seagray(331) and washed with flat black.

Some other little stuff and then I can work completely on the exhausts, any suggestion about that?

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For the exhausts I highly recomend using WM Cheng's trick of putting in thin strips of styrene in there. Looks great when done.

Berttt

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Uhm... I think its welcome for the VF-0 cause they actually look that way, but the hasegawa VF-1 exhausts are already correct (just too long) so I'm not going to modify them, if you have suggestion about the colors they are welcome.

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I normally use plain flat black as a base coat and do a heavy drybrush with silver mixed with raw umber. I tend not to get them to dirty as the air intakes and fanblades are inspected almost every day for flight safety. The air intake channels you can give a very light and subtle weathering to simulate airflow. Just don't overdue it.

Nice build up, keet it up B))

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That's all for today

The injection marks are a pain.

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They are a pain and while I appreciate your thoroughness, you'll never see those pin marks once it's together.

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I agree with Grayson, that's a bit of overkill. I applaud your thoroughness and enthusiasm, though. :)

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That's all for today

The injection marks are a pain.

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They are a pain and while I appreciate your thoroughness, you'll never see those pin marks once it's together.

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I agree with Grayson, that's a bit of overkill. I applaud your thoroughness and enthusiasm, though. :)

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It may be overkill, IMO it isn't cause they aren't invisible, anyway I have to detail the exhaust, you can light up the inside and say, Holy crap!.

I painted the inside with burnt iron, metalized the outside with mr. metal color dark iron and the turbines with mr. super metallic , super iron. The weathering was done with pastels, I don't even try to take a pics of the inside, it's already hard take a pic of the outside, sorry for the crappy pic.

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The mr. metal colors paint the needs to be polished besides sealing are a pain in the ass to work with, must pick up some alclad metallizer before the next model. :blink:

I will surely pick up steel, can you suggest me some other metal tones?

The next step it's assemble the wings and fix the chest area mechanism.

I was thinking about jet exhaust too, dark alliminum is darker then steel?

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I painted the inside with burnt iron, metalized the outside with mr. metal color dark iron and the turbines with mr. super metallic , super iron. The weathering was done with pastels, I don't even try to take a pics of the inside, it's already hard take a pic of the outside, sorry for the crappy pic.

************

Don't give up on taking pics. They are the meat of your posts.

Keep up the great work. So are you condsidering lit up afterburners?

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Don't give up on taking pics. They are the meat of your posts.

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I have to, sorry, crappy camera for this kind of stuff. Its just black and white pastel, nothing special aniways.

Keep up the great work.Ā  So are you condsidering lit up afterburners?

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No, I mean just watching in the the exhausts with a lamp...

Quick test.. uhm I think I'll assemble the backpack too.

036.jpg

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Worked a little more on the bird, the backpack looked simple but I messed up with the glue, after sanding priming, sanding priming again ots okay, now I'm currently doing the wings, I messed up a little on one wing, but nothing serious.

Just hope to don't run out of primer :D

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Really that kodak digital camera sucks, my father fujifilm is way better. I think I'll use this for the next pics.

Too bad that exhausts and cockpit are already sealed, so I got pics only for the seat and ehausts vents. Finally the eject handle its a bit more visible.

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Worked out seams and pin marks

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Empty space filled with epoxy putty

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Airbrake sanded down a little to fit better with the fuselage. It isn't primed cause is already painted with mr.base white.

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The Bird!

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I have to fix some faults the primer showed me in the wings and main fuselage, then I will finish the interiors, after that I'll start with the legs/engines block.

Really hope nothing bad happens

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All ready to be glued together.

Intakes...

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Details

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Engines...

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The fitting test show a good fitting, my greatest fear its that paint or glue will end on the exhausts, I wish Hasegawa made them detachable, damn.... :(

You make this look so easy. I have a hard time, taking my time to make things look right. Great Job so far.

I'm surprised myself that nothing bad happened yet, the worst part will be canopy and clear parts I guess. I'l will mess up, don't worry I'm 99% sure it will happens. :angry:

Edited by Ido
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If you use a plastic welder correctly the melted plastic fill the seam, a lot of people don't even apply the putty cause there ins't any seam to fill, but its possible that the plastic have some depressions, here Mr. surfacer show them very well.

Its very important to propely clean the piece after sanding especially the panel lines, a wet used toothbrush its great for this.

Seriously, modeling paint applied lightly with an airbrush don't harm details but the sanding residues are awful. :angry:

Now the parts are clean and ready for mr. surfacer 1200 I suggest to use this on 1/72 valks cause its very detail friendly and its a lighter in colour then mr. surfacer 1000.

There were a big depression near the exhausts, I'm glad mr. surfcaer 500 did the job.

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