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New Pics of Yamato VF-0S 1/60


Graham
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Picked up a second VF-0S yesterday from a small toy shop in the town of Tai Po, as my normal supplier wasn't able to come through for me. I paid HK$880 (US$113).

From what I've seen here in Hong Kong over the last week, the VF-0S seems to retail for between HK$850 (US$109) the cheapest I've seen, to HK$980 (US$125), depending on which shop you go to.

Happy to say this VF-0S was flawless. The tail spikes were undamaged, the paint job was crisp, Tampo printing was all straight. The joints were all sufficiently tight and the toy was able to hold any pose I put it into in any mode.

While it's true that the knee and elbow swivel joints are slightly looser than on the 1/48 VF-1, I wouldn't really describe them as 'loose joints' per say and don't consder these 'slightly less-tight joints' a problem at all.

All in all, I'm a very happy camper and will probably pick up a third one soon.

Graham

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I wouldn't say a new addition. I've been collecting Valk toys for a long, long time.

While I'm not up there with the big guys like Godzilla as far as collection size goes, I still have a reasonable size collection.

Graham

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I wouldn't say a new addition. I've been collecting Valk toys for a long, long time.

While I'm not up there with the big guys like Godzilla as far as collection size goes, I still have a reasonable size collection.

Graham

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Man. No wonder some of you guys don't have much problem with looser joints. You have enough copies to pose in all modes that you don't even need to transform them. :D J/K

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Finally got to play around with my newly arrived VF-0S. Transformation while similar to the VF-1, but some areas seem less straight forward to figure out. Funny that the instruction left out a couple tricky areas (like the bottom hinge of the backpack to lift it so the back pack sits closer to the back of the Battlroid mode,

Dude they did. Page 16, item 13, side picture.

and the way to close the nose cone cover when storing the leg sway bar). Need to really take my time to figure out how to get those right, without forcing any fieces too much and snap it off.

They did again, page 15, item 12. :p

QC-wise, mine is pretty good overall. But I do find both upper arm swivel and knee swivel all pretty loose. I fixed them by looping those swivel joints a couple times with dental floss. If you do it right, you can hide the floss pretty good inside the gap with an Xacto knive. Just be careful when cutting the floss and pushing it in without scraping the plastic. Now they are nice and tight, with a bit of cushiony feel. One of the head cannon is looser, but not enough to cause an issue. All the other ball joints, ratchet and wings are nice and solid.

Genius. Keeps the valk minty fresh too. :lol:

I'm gonna try it with that plumbing tape (the one u use to wrap around water pipe joints) which is soft and discreet.

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Dooode. I just got home and checked the menu. I wasn't smoking crack afterall. The instructions you pointed out weren't the ones I was mentioning. It was the backpack bottom hinge, not the snap lock on the sway bar. The second one simply is that you have to put the sway bar & legs halfway in, then have the nosecone bottom cover close together. I had the bar all the way in first, then couldn't close the cover at all. The instruction didn't point that out. And in VF-1, you put the bar in first, then close cover. I know I am not that bad at following the instructions, especially I can understand a little bit of Japanese. Just to clarify. :p

Edited by mpchi
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Dooode. I just got home and checked the menu. I wasn't smoking crack afterall. The instructions you pointed out weren't the ones I was mentioning. It was the backpack bottom hinge, not the snap lock on the sway bar. The second one simply is that you have to put the sway bar & legs halfway in, then have the nosecone bottom cover close together. I had the bar all the way in first, then couldn't close the cover at all. The instruction didn't point that out. And in VF-1, you put the bar in first, then close cover. I know I am not that bad at following the instructions, especially I can understand a little bit of Japanese. Just to clarify. :p

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I'm not sure if we're both talking about the same thing, but if you say what should be there isn't there...... i'll take your word fer it.

Using graham's instruction scans to show ya: ;)

The 1st one shows the new hinge (not in the VF-1) for the backpack that has to go up at a 45 degree angle so the backpack sits closer to the body. Not very sure about what the "snap lock on the sway bar" is. The circled part probably shows your sway bar, but look to the right picture as it shows the hinge folded up in and colored differently to highlight it. So you probably talking bout something else?

Item 13:

http://www.macrossworld.com/macross/toys/v...ructions-16.jpg

For the 2nd one i admit it isn't very clear but i didn't have a problem with it. Cause the picture shows that you have to put the hinge on top of the hole but not pushed in. You have to cover the nose cone flap over the hinge.....then press it in and it all goes in easily. The right side picture shows how the hinge should be outside the nose cone flap when its pressed into place.

http://www.macrossworld.com/macross/toys/v...ructions-15.jpg

But overall i didn't need to look at the instructions. I just watched out for "new parts" and made sure i didn't moved things where they weren't made to move. It was simple enough.

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Just got my VF-0S from Hobby link yesterday. Overall I'm happy with it, but I must say it was a little disapointing because of the fit of parts, otherwise it could be the best Yamato VF. I am much more impressed with the VF-1 Stealth, it looks awesome and it is by far the tightest fitting and most solid Yamato I have so far, its like a rock. Pictures of both are on the way.

I avoided all the major problems, but when opening the box one of the tail fins was snapped off and laying loose in the box. It snapped back on fine, but I stressed it a little to get it on. Also one of the screw plugs on the inside leg was missing and no where to be found.

The design is amazing, the sculpt is amazing, the proportion is good, Tampo printing is perfect, but the assembly and fit are absolute crap compared to the VF-1 models. Someone here said it best that they took 2 steps forward and 2 steps backward.

Its not that one or two parts are loose fitting, pretty much the entire toy has a loose fit on everything. It is difficult for it to hold a pose. In fighter mode the whole front nose and cockpit hang limp at the heatshield joint (I found that if you smash the head against the shoulders it stiffens it up nice).

The thing that really kills me is why Yamato eliminated all of the locking pieces from the VF-1, the locking head, chest piece, backpack, back flap, hips/turbines in fighter mode. On the VF-0S none of these parts lock/snap in place like the VF-1. It really feels like they cut production costs on this one and then jacked up the price??

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Well, they jacked up the price to recover the development and retooling costs of this new design, not to mention inflation. I'm sure that if the VF-1 had debuted now, the price would be close or around what they're charging for the VF-0.

Your information does worry me though, as the VF-1 debuted as a mostly tight and solid toy all of those years ago. If the 'Zero starts out like this now, will it ever get better?

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Well, they jacked up the price to recover the development and retooling costs of this new design, not to mention inflation.  I'm sure that if the VF-1 had debuted now, the price would be close or around what they're charging for the VF-0. 

Your information does worry me though, as the VF-1 debuted as a mostly tight and solid toy all of those years ago.  If the 'Zero starts out like this now, will it ever get better?

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Yamato improved both the YF-19 and the VF-11B so there is hope.

The VF-1S was not perfect for the first run with the falling of nose cone.

I have to agree with those that are both amazed and disappointed in the Zero.

I just guess we are spoiled by the mature VF-1 design when compared to a new introduction.

Amazing enough that is what pilots say when new aircraft models are fielded.

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I finally got one for $160 shipped off Ebay. Not a bad price IMO. Got it pretty quickly as well from HK.

Mine has no obvious defects. The arm-peg/gunpod is a tight fit, but work well enough. Tail spikes are good. Biceps and thigh-swivel are very loose. It has a hard time posing with the gunpod. I will fix this when I fix my VB-6's arms using superglue.

I like the tampo-printing, but IMO they should have gone the extra 3 feet and printed the kites on the sides of the fuselage.

It also seems lighter than the 1/48 and am not too fond of the color, but I like the toy overall.

This toy really makes me wonder...when is Yamato going to make a large-scale YF-19??? This thing screams "the 19 is next!"

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I like the tampo-printing, but IMO they should have gone the extra 3 feet and printed the kites on the sides of the fuselage.

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They can't Tampo print in that location, because there is a seam line between the upper and lower fuselage parts.

Graham

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A buddy who owed me in a big way showed up on my doorstep with a VF-0 in hand; he frequents Frank n' Sons and knew that I was starving for this thing and picked it up for me.

Ok, fresh out of the box impressions? It "feels" loose, like many others have reported. I'm starting to agree with another member here who notes the lack of solid "click and locking" parts like the VF-1, which feels like a brick (Low Viz, CF). I see a sort of "Broke-back" VF-0, in that the fighter tends to flex somewhere behind the canopy, like on the MPC Alphas, for example. Also, my right stabilizer is very loose and clicks into place with a very flimsy millimeter sized tab that I can see wearing out at some point. Nothing is broken, as far as I can tell. The gunpod hole is too tight to mount so I'll have to drill that out. This is one big, beautiful bird, although I'm going to give that nose antennae 1.6 days before I end up breaking it off; maybe I'll just cut it off before that happens. Ultimately, tightening this bird up would make it the perfect toy.

One of my favorite sayings is, "With people like friends, who needs enemies?" I might change that after today...

Edited by myk
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This is one big, beautiful bird, although I'm going to give that nose antennae 1.6 days before I end up breaking it off; maybe I'll just cut it off before that happens.  Ultimately, tightening this bird up would make it the perfect toy. 

Nose antanna is removable. Just put it away if you worry breaking it. You'll remove it in battroid mode anyway. No worries. ;)

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Lol-thanks, I just discovered that! Although I do wish I could keep it on. Maybe one of you wacky customizers/casters will come up with a more flexible version?

Edited by myk
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I agree the kite would be difficult on the nose. Many of the 1/48's have a gap in the nose panels (albeit small). My VF-0S has no gap AND they printed the black stripe on the same seam. If they print it and you don't like you can always cover it with a sticker. However, I love the tampo printing because it make the toy displayable right out of the box.

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Got mine yesterday!!! thankfully no Major problems. Part of the vertical Stab spike was broken but I found it in the box and glued it back on. Agreed with most sentiments that it does feel a little loose, and you can see it sag when it is picked up off of the gear and then settle again when it is resting on the gear. The left leg is pretty loose and if the leg is turned outward in Gerwalk mode, it jus collapses. I also find the new arm/ swing bar situation much more difficult than the 1/48, but this does make it look much better so I won't complain. Overall very happy with it! Thanks to Twin Moons!

Chris

Edited by Dobber
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I like to hold the VF-1s with an underhanded grip, with my fingers squeezing the two intakes. Trying to do that with the Zero results in the leg assemblies popping out of and away from the backpack/stabilizer assembly. I'm hoping that this is the result of loose knee joints, as I might be able to deal with that...

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What type of glue, putty or filler would you use to build up the missing pin on the vertical fins? Do not want to use the wrong stuff and watch my Zero melt.

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I just used regular super glue. Just make sure you use a very small amount just a dab will do ya' ;)

MYK, I noticed that too, if you hold it back on the leg fast pack area and squeeze there, it makes sure that the back pack stays in place, you just gotta do it hard enough or the fast packs will slide off though. :huh:

Chris

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I like to hold the VF-1s with an underhanded grip, with my fingers squeezing the two intakes.  Trying to do that with the Zero results in the leg assemblies popping out of and away from the backpack/stabilizer assembly.  I'm hoping that this is the result of loose knee joints, as I might be able to deal with that...

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Don't think its the loose knee. Mind does exactly the same, even when I fixed my loose swivel (also the knee ratchets are tight). Its just the way its built, with the leg pegs not strong enough to hold onto the backpack. You just need to get used to holding it on the legs (clamping the backpack) more towards the back then the intakes. Maybe thickening the pegs would help, but haven't tried. I also found that without having the gunpod attached in fighter mode, the leg pegs are less likely to pop off.

The locks in general on the zero is just less secure. Though last night when I transform it back to fighter mode, the shoulder hinges is a pain to put it all the way in in the middle (so that gunpod doesn't sag and touch the ground). There was barely any room for the square shoulder hinge to go pass the leg metal sway bar (metal doesn't bend like the plastic) and go all the way down. I have to push so hard that I can snap any parts with that force. Now that its in fighter mode, I wonder how hard I need to pull those shoulders back out when I transform it next time. :blink:

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In fighter mode, I hold my Zeros in an underhand grip either at the knee area or the lower legs. No problem with intakes popping out.

Graham

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Graham, I think he meant the legs(peg) popping off from the back pack, not the intakes popping. Since you hold at the knee or lower towards the lower legs(where the fast pack sits), its less likely to have the popping. But if you grip it at the intakes(which I do that normally too), those leg pegs pop right off, since there is no hook on that leg peg to lock onto the backpack.

Edited by mpchi
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Right. I've just had to modify my grip by moving it down towards the lower legs, thus pinning them against the backpack/tailfin assembly. Don't misunderstand me though, I love this fighter, probably even more than the VF-1.

VF-1, intakes. VF-0, lower legs.

Now I can go running around making those jet sounds...

Edited by myk
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Right.  I've just had to modify my grip by moving it down towards the lower legs, thus pinning them against the backpack/tailfin assembly.

VF-1, intakes.  VF-0, lower legs.

Now I can go running around making those jet sounds...

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Sounds good to me. :lol: SHWOOOOOOOOOOOOOSHHHH! BAAAM BAAAM BAAAM BAAAM!!!

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I find the front landing gear on the VF-0S is much easier to get out compared to the 1/48 VF-1. On the VF-0S, you can pull on the plastic tow-bar to get the front landing gear out and not have to worry about it coming off like you do on the 1/48's tow-bar.

I admit that the VF-0S's rear landing gear is a little difficult to get out, but I can manage it without tools, as long as my fingernails are not trimmed all the way down. I do have fairly slim fingers though.

Graham

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I was going to ask about that tow-bar. It seemed strong enough to yank on but I didn't want to press my luck-thanks alot...

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I definitely find the VF-0 landing gear to be harder to pull out. There's a bit less "fingernail" access to flip open the bay doors, and then the gear are tight as frack. I do love how the gear struts are slimmer than the VF-1, more fitting for the scale.

I'm liking the fighter mode so much, I think i'll leave it in this mode for now - and put the pitot tube/antenna back on the nose. It's got such a cook menacing Flanker profile from certain angles. I still think VF-1 is still sleeker looing in fighter mode, and overall a better "toy" to transform and abuse.

Edited by ghostryder
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IMO 2 of the coolest things about this toy are the arrestor hook and the nose antenna. I wish they had kept the moveable flaps. I like them on my 1/48's that aren't my R1 Hikaru 1A. It has its drawbacks and could have used some more diecast in the transformation assemblies for sturdiness (the swingbar is too thin IMO). However, its still very cool and displays nicely.

Hey Yamato, where's my 1/48 YF-19?

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