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What's wrong with my Yamato, Bandai, etc.


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Super glue is indeed an impressive thing!

I'm quite surprised to report, my fix from yesterday appears to be holding up! I've swung the leg out a few times and everything seems to be OK.

Here's a shot of where I glued. The little barred area at the end of the green line is where I was careful to stop the glue, so that area just beyond can still flex. This is what's in contact with the detents on the gerwalk hips. It has to flex a bit to allow the joint to click.

post-10360-1256101295_thumb.jpg

I expect this won't last forever and I plan to use a machine bolt and nut to hold the shell together. It won't be completely hidden but I think I'm OK with that. The joint is not all that visible in fighter mode, where it'll spend most of its time. We'll see about the other modes...

So it can be repaired! It's just not a pretty repair when it breaks the way mine did. If I had it to do over again, I'd have been more careful with that cap over the screw and just drilled a few progressively larger holes until I could get the screw out. The cap won't just pop off, as I was attempting to do at the start.

Anyway, I hope someone finds this helpful at some point.

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Not really a 'what's wrong'...but does the upper body of the Bandai DX 1/60 VF-25 'lock' into place or is it just kind of 'there'?

It is something wrong as far as I am concerned! See my sig!

it is suppossed to stay in place.... locked. However the locking mechanism doesn't seem to do a good job, especially after locking/unlocking a few times, and with the weight of Super packs, it just seem to be too much for it.

It seems to be a fairly common problem, but some people don't seem to have it, even though they have seemed to transform it a few times.... :unsure:

For myself, I have not tried nail varnishes. What I have done is take a piece of paper, and used it as some sort as a wedge by putting that piece in between the locking mechanism, so that the damn thing will hold by friction. I know, it ain't the best solution, but if you are just displaying these things in battroid form with little to no playing, it works... at least it does for me.

Edited by BlueMax
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Assuming the VE-1 has the same friction-type head mount as the other v2 1/60s, I'd check and see if another Valk's head fits it, or if the VE-1 head fits another neck. The hole in the head might be a bit big, or the neck might be too small.

Either way though, I think you could fix that just by applying something to the head peg to make it a bit bigger (preferably something you can sand down if it gets too big). I coated a couple pegs on my SV-51s' wings in super glue to enlarge them, and that seemed to work well for that.

Depending on how loose the head is though, it may take a few coats of glue before you get it big enough.

BTW, I use an extra thick superglue for this, so I can build up a bit of a bulge fairly quickly.

I wish I could get into my VF-1J's head to fix the floppy lasers, but the gaps are too small to get to the hinges easily, and I think they're riveted on. Still no ideas on how to get the head apart?

Edit: K, I know what's wrong with the head lasers.. the hinge pins that keep them on are press fit, and the surface of the head is not quite perpendicular to the pivot axis.. When I first got it, the head lasers were fine in fighter... after rotating up to battroid the first time (quite a bit of friction here the first time), they're completely limp, except in battroid. If I reach into the head with a pin, and press outward on the hinge pins while pressing the laser mounts down tight, they'll go tight enough to stay level in fighter... but rotate them up for battroid again, and the pins pull loose, making the lasers limp again.

I'm wondering now if I just have a head that got molded badly. Has anyone else had this happen? Should I maybe think about ordering a replacement?

Edited by Chronocidal
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  • 1 month later...
I just got my VE-1... and the head won't stay attached. <_<

has anyone else had this problem? does anyone know how to fix this?

Which part of the head wont stay in place? The ball socket btw head and neck or the peg btw neck and torso? I reckcon the joint, apply nail polisher or glue shall help. Mine stay in place but will come off with little force.

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say. i just got my new 1/60 1j max....and for some reason the "attachment" holder for the backpack just would not attach properly, like it was not made for it.

when attached the pegs on the twin booster is not in line with the little hole in which it should peg in securely. and then when it's forced in the wing cannot closes...

basically it feels like the tray that holds the booster was NOT the right one.....like, it just doesn't fit AT ALL.

i notice that this particular valk has different "backpack" thingy than my previous valks which is elintseeker and super ostrich. so yeah.....can't really compare to see what is wrong since they have different backpack.

any help is greatly appreciated.

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say. i just got my new 1/60 1j max....and for some reason the "attachment" holder for the backpack just would not attach properly, like it was not made for it.

when attached the pegs on the twin booster is not in line with the little hole in which it should peg in securely. and then when it's forced in the wing cannot closes...

basically it feels like the tray that holds the booster was NOT the right one.....like, it just doesn't fit AT ALL.

i notice that this particular valk has different "backpack" thingy than my previous valks which is elintseeker and super ostrich. so yeah.....can't really compare to see what is wrong since they have different backpack.

any help is greatly appreciated.

I had the same problem. Moreover, the white paint on the back of the shoulder - light thingies for both Max and Miriya is scratched all to heck and back during normal careful transformation from Gerwalk to Battroid mode.

I'll check my other backpacks for comparison - I have all but three of the releases so far. More info soon.

Edited by RainBot
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The shoulder tab scratching is going to happen no matter what you do really.. it's a key attachment point for the chestplate.

What I did was file down the tabs on the inside of the chest plate some. They were rather jagged, which probably wasn't helping the scratching, and they were big enough that detaching the chest plate was tricky.

The way the back boosters mount though... I have a mini-rant I need to post about this system. Yes, it's sturdy, but the way it's mounted scares me. It looks like it's seriously compromising the tail structure, not to mention scratching the tail paint on my Roy.

I'll post pictures of this later, but I'm actually afraid the booster system is eventually going to lead to the tails snapping in half. I might be overly concerned.. but those tails should NOT be bending as much as they are.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Don't know if anyone else had this problem, but the reflective stuff on my 1st edition 1/60 v2 Roy 1S canopy was chipping and falling off. Quality! The shoulders will probably break whenever I decide to transform it too.

I have over 40+ V2 and one of mine has the same problem, and yes it's roy's vf-1s too, this particular unti also has cracked shoulder. This is the only problem that I have with all my V2.

DSC00770.jpg

DSC00773.jpg

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Ouch! That's worse than mine. Mine just had a little spot, so I started chipping away and just took most of the coating off. Unfortunately the canopy itself has a slight yellow tint so I guess it's going to be in Battroid mode whenever I have the room to display them.

You haven't experienced this with your others, you say? That's good news. I was worried about my Cannon Fodder. The first issue Roy must have been the teething phase.

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Sorry I couldn't find an appropriate topic to post under for this specific question. I have noticed between my Focker 1s and Hikaru 1s that the Focker 1s is sturdier than the Hikaru 1s. For example, when in battroid mode Focker's swingbar sits in place without any movement, whereas the Hikaru version has a little give and pushes the nose door back and forth as I try to position it standing. It's really awkward. My Focker is well balanced and the Hikaru is not as a result of the bar moving. Also on my Hikaru the knees are also looser. Enough space to move the shin left and right whereas on my Focker there is barely any movement. Does every valk come out differently or is it just me? Thanks for your input

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I finally got YAMATOED...... :angry: :angry: :angry: My Virgin Road has the "cracked" look on the shiny coating on the canopy. The ONE CANOPY OF THEM ALL THAT NEEDS TO BE CLEAR!!! *SIGH*

anyone around here actually received and successfully changed out a ver. 2 canopy??? :huh:

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I finally got YAMATOED...... :angry: :angry: :angry: My Virgin Road has the "cracked" look on the shiny coating on the canopy. The ONE CANOPY OF THEM ALL THAT NEEDS TO BE CLEAR!!! *SIGH*

anyone around here actually received and successfully changed out a ver. 2 canopy??? :huh:

I'm emailing HLJ today for that same reason, but on the Kakizaki DYRL version. They've been awesome about that sorta stuff before. Clearly this cockpit problem is a recurring motif.

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I'm emailing HLJ today for that same reason, but on the Kakizaki DYRL version. They've been awesome about that sorta stuff before. Clearly this cockpit problem is a recurring motif.

awesome, I'll do the same thing. Thanks. Let us know how it turns out on your end!

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On my Nora, the hinge that connects the wing to the hinged fuselage part is lose. I discovered that there is only one screw bolting that point together, and when you flex the joint, the two halves start to separate. I used some glue on one,of the sections but it didn't do anything about the looseness of that hinge, and Im having problems gluing the other one. I just bought a small philips head to tighten it, but I suspect that the hinges may have actually been displaced. Anyone have similar problems?

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Just got the Sv-51 Nora type and it has the floppy wing issue. not too bad at the moment . But is there a fix for it?

I probably wont be putting the attachments on due to the fact they require so much force it scares me some.

while i'm at it is there an easier way to put the boosters on?

Edited by BeyondTheGrave
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Im not sure how much easier they could be. You take the panels off the wings and then slot the boosters into them. Are you having problems with keeping them on the wings?

I haven't put them on the wings. The panels are in quite securely. I'm trying to find and object to use to remove them that won't scratch the paint.

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Just got a 1/48 VF-1J Hikaru and the left hip was very very loose at the ball joint. Took both hips apart, found that both rubber caps are shaped differently. One too tight, the other too loose.

Any tips on making the loose one more tighter?

Replace the rubber caps with new ones, by using a single-hole punch and an old sink mat. Works like a charm.

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Is it easy to peel off that coating in one swoop when it starts peeling? It's kinda getting me conscious and not want to get a Valkyrie any soon unless it's the 1A TV Max which I would like to display in Battroid mode (where any peeling canopies will be hidden by the heat shield).

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Is it easy to peel off that coating in one swoop when it starts peeling? It's kinda getting me conscious and not want to get a Valkyrie any soon unless it's the 1A TV Max which I would like to display in Battroid mode (where any peeling canopies will be hidden by the heat shield).

I don't think the peeling of the reflective film from the canopies is a widespread problem. I have 10 v2 VF's and none has this issue.

And yes, the canopies are completely hidden by the heatshield in battroid mode.

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Is it easy to peel off that coating in one swoop when it starts peeling? It's kinda getting me conscious and not want to get a Valkyrie any soon unless it's the 1A TV Max which I would like to display in Battroid mode (where any peeling canopies will be hidden by the heat shield).

I had to chip away at it, but if I had let it sit there for a few more months so that more bubbled off it probably would have been easier. It doesn't look perfect now, but unless I mentioned to someone that I had chipped the coating off they wouldn't even notice.

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Hello - I posted the content below as a new thread and was directed to this thread....

Anyone had a similair issue with the lower intake on their 1/48??..................

As the title suggests I received a broken 1/48 Yamato Hikki VF-1S just before Christmas.

I have checked over the other topics in relation to damaged Yamato's and I couldn't find this specific issue so I apologize if I missed it.

I bought the 1/48 from Angolz (my first purchase with them). I thought the price was good and the shipping was reasonable so I took the jump....

This is where the story comes unstuck. As I slowly unwrapped my new prize I noticed hairline cracks on the lower portion of the intake. Thats below the hip joint and the pivot point when in Gerwalk mode. At first I thought I was seeing things, so I gently slid the legs out as if to transform into Gerwalk and the cracks started to open up (or flex) under the pressure.

Thats when I noticed the other leg had the same crack but on the inside of the leg!!

I have to say that this is my tenth 1/48 and I have over 20 of the V2 1/60's so I know some of the issues taht have been popping up but I haven't seen or heard of this problem before.

Just to be clear its the lower portion of the intake and the crack runs from the laser pod to about 1mm from the edge of this part. The other leg with inside crack runs just above the seem of the intake and right around to the top of where the two parts of the intake meet. These cracks are NOT on the intake part that joins to the hips or the front of the intake which has the intake covers.

Angolz have been really good about the whole thing, I sent a polite but concerned email and I had a response within hours.

I had to get some pictures and so forth but as soon as Angolz received the pictures they offered to replace the 1/48. The only catch was that I had to pay the shipping to return the Valk.

So far it has been about 7 days and I'm hoping my damaged Valk arrives Ok - as they wont ship the replacement until my damaged one arrives.

Fingers crossed that all goes to plan and I recieve my replacement next week.....

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I don't think the peeling of the reflective film from the canopies is a widespread problem. I have 10 v2 VF's and none has this issue.

And yes, the canopies are completely hidden by the heatshield in battroid mode.

I don't think it's a major problem. I have over 40 V2 and only one with the problem, and this particular one happen to have stressed shoulder, so the shoulder is a bit loose. The rest of mine V2 are all intact.

DSC00770.jpg

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