zephon

...somehow my comment got edited out. seems like my 25s hinge cracks were due to transformation stress and not weight.

unfortunately last nite my VF-25S Armored broke on me during transformation

sigh.. the heavy wing armor stressed the part too much... probably should've removed it before transforming

Wait....so the tornado parts are a different set purchase from the "DX Weapons Set"?

Well, that doesn't seem that bad. For those who just want the Weapons can get the first set and for those still without the tornado armor would get both....

@ anubis20 : do you need to change valk necks during transformation or is that new part good to go? Thanks!

i'm quite new with the vf-25 so here goes....

does anyone have pics of how they modified the vf-25s neck? i heard stuff like revoltech joints and all that but i have yet to see a pic...

any pics or links pls?

Well, the difference in scale is there but one just has to be creative in using which one where. A good example would be the white stickers on the tip of the guns on the armor pack -- the decals are too small that they don't go all the way around the nozzle. Same goes with the decals on the radar.

As for the ones that work great -- they're good to keep for reserve in case on of the details chip off. A perfect example would be the "001" and "SMS" on the Valk's shoulder on battroid mode.

Here's something I want to share -- I'm not satisfied with the decals on the 1/60 VF-25S Armored Valk so I decided to try to use the left over water slide decals from the 1/72 kit. Here's the result:

I like the material they used for the 1/60 DX. I just hope the plastic doesn't yellow or get brittle after...10,20yrs. I like the diecast landing gear of the DX -- wishing for more diecast on them (and paint chipping hahaha). The retracting landing gear is something the DX has over the kit.

Stuff from the 1/72 Armored Ozma I want on the 1/60 DX -- in fighter mode, a)the way the gun connector works with or w/o armor and helps hold the 2 legs together b)the way the leg armors lock on the back armor plate (the one on the large bison skull insignia) instead of locking on the wing hinge of the DX. Toss in connector pegs for the arm armor and better details for the leg missile launchers.

Now I understand the way people clamor for a version 2.0 (or at least 1.5) of the VF-25.

in a way i guess i was right in getting the 1/72 armored vf-25s first before getting the 1/60 DX version. assembling the kit was a good exercise in patience that works for you when dealing with the DX. with both having their good and bad points, wish there was an inbetween version!

I just saw the VF-1A at my local hobby store and it didn't seem to have the Strike cannon. What does it have in it's place?

It has a strike cannon. The 2nd tray is practially the same one as the VF-1S's tray.

I was browsing around some links which eventually let me to this page:

http://macrossf.com/mechanic/mecha16.html

It seems like the VF-27 is going to resemble a remold of a Nora SV-51....

I only have a couple of 1/48 VF's -- both of them purposely in non-canon schemes:

Coming from a new collector, playing catch-up isn't easy!

If you like safe, simple transformations and designs, go for the VF-0. If you want complex transformations, then the YF-21 is perfect for you!

Just wanted to share:

I'm basically a new collector -- these are the only 2 1/48 VF-1's I have (and can afford at the moment).

get the 1/48 if you want it big ... get the 1/60 coz its new and cheaper...

I'd agree with this.

Another thing is if you get a 1/48 VF-1S, a 1/60 VF-0S and the ver.2 1/60 VF-1S, you can see how Yamato's design of the 1/60 "evolved" from their previous designs. You'll appreciate the newer 1/60 VF-1S based on design elements coming from the previous 2 designs!

Im voting for the vf-1 ver.2 1/60. It's a good value for money buy. It also wont eat up too much shelf space.

I ended up getting an Ivanov.

Wow! The matte black color makes him look more sinister and sleeker.

Yeah, I did have a problem with the port-side wing joint but nothing a basic tightening technique can't fix. No regrets on getting this one!

It's been awhile since its release and the arm problems. is it safe to get it now?

No. Even if the store says it's new stock, still go for the VF-0S with ghost.

I would personally suggest going 1/60 -- I think it's a good scale in the long run. I mean should you continue on with Valks from the other series, then Macross Zero is in 1/60, Macross Plus is alson in 1/60 and eventually Macross Frontier is rumored to be 1/60.

I would also vote for the ver.2 VF-1S. It comes in a compact package that even includes the fastpacks. So for its cost, you get a Valk and add-ons!

The YF-21 isn't really that recommended as a beginner's Valk due to it's rather very very involved transformation scheme! Go grab it after your 2nd or 3rd Valk.

The VF-0S with Ghost is a good one as well but it won't be as perfect as the ver.2 VF-1S (or YF-21). It's great to hold a VF-0S and compare it with the ver.2 VF-1S and really get a feel of the design evolution of the toy!

QC-wise, which toy is a safer buy? This one or the Nora ver.?

For me the biggest problem is removing the leg bars from the jet's nose.

All I can say to help is that one needs to go thru gerwalk mode first when transforming to jet mode. To yamato's credit, going thru the instructions in reverse order helps a lot. Good thing the sequence numbers arent in japanese hehe

Yeah, you do have point there. There's an abundance of the Nora here. Based on what I've read on this thread, the best bet would be the Nora. I'm just not too sold on the color scheme.

Is there anything to indicate if an Ivanov is a v.2? I mean are there serial numbers on the box or plane or a sticker or manufacture date to know what ver/release it belongs to?

I saw someone use the term VF-0A 'red line'. What does it mean? I'm thinking of getting a 0A after my success with a 0S w/ ghost, but there aren't any 0A w/ ghost here.

Is there a way for me to have good odds at getting a good 0A w/o resorting to getting the 1 w/ ghost?