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Hiryu

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ARMD Deck Swabber

ARMD Deck Swabber (2/15)

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  1. I posted here a little over a year ago about my successful attempt at de-yellowing my vf-25 dx. I basted it using salon care 40 cream in sunlight, enclosed in a transparent bin. Worked brilliantly. Since then, the valk was placed on a shelf nowhere near direct sunlight. However, I am sad to report that after a year the yellowing has returned just as bad as it originally was. Areas that were not yellowing before have now started darkening as well. This is a real bummer. Wish there was a permanent solution.
  2. So.. I have an older yf29 Alto that I got for a sweet deal some time ago. It was a little worn but still ok. Today I picked it up for the first time in several months and the legs tore apart at the waist joint. Looks like the plastic basically degraded and crumbled.. on a side note I was kind surprised that the legs, as weighty as they are, are held by such a small plastic joint. Seems to work for the 25 and 27 molds though so what do I know.. Anyway, for those of you that have a lot of experience with the 29 toys, do any of the Alto reissues have improved quality? Are the non Alto versions of the 29 better? Looking to replace mine. Thanks for any advice!!
  3. So, I've used the Salon Care 40 creme on three separate occasions and wanted to share my experience. All three valks were placed in direct sunlight after application. The difference each time was the covering. First time was was no covering. Second, parts wrapped in cling wrap. Third, piece was placed in a clear bin covered with cling wrap. The first attempt was with a YF-29 Alto that had had noticeable yellowing on white areas. No noticeable discoloration on the red. I applied SC40 to the exposed areas and left in the sunlight as is. After 5 hours, I noticed discoloration did improve. I flipped it over and repeated. In all took 24 hours of exposure and multiple treatments. No damage to surface, tampo or any paint. Discoloration effectively removed. My second attempt was with a VF-1J Max. Significant discoloration. Looks like it was left in battroid mode in front of a window. Blue chest was much darker than the rest of the blue pieces. Pretty much looked dark green. I decided to disassemble the valk to expose as much of the discolored surfaces as possible. I applied the SC40 to each piece and wrapped them individually in cling wrap. Left in the sun, expecting a slow process and checked after 6 hours. To my horror, the reaction was much faster probably due to the cling wrap. There were splotches of faded blue, lighter than the regular color. In addition, the cling wrap left some streaks of glossiness on some surfaces. Some areas of discoloration still remained while completely gone in others. I decided to call it a loss and stop and never do this ever again. Some time later, I purchased a VF-25 Alto v2 on ebay, where the description said "Excellent S- Condition". I bought it for what I felt was a decent price. However, when I received it, it had obvious discoloration all over. Like the VF-1, looks like it was left in battroid in front of a window. Other than that, it was in great shape. After complaining to the seller, he was very fair about it and I got a significant partial refund. Needless to say, I busted out the SC40. This time, I put in in a bin and covered the top with cling wrap. I also put foil on the bottom to keep the light bouncing around. I kept it in fighter, treated the top, intending to flip it over later. Interesting thing happened, after 4 hours, about 80% of the discoloration was gone, even on the bottom where I hadn't applied SC40. My thought was maybe the vapor of the SC40 trapped in the bin affected those areas as well?? Anyway. I retreated and left it out for another 4 hours. After a total of 8 hours most of the parts were completely white again. There was stubborn yellowing on one of the wings where the discoloration was the worst. After another 4, I would say the discoloration was about 5% visible. I will probably try one more treatment to get ther rest out. Hope this was informative.
  4. $180 w free shipping... hmm... Need to see reviews first. pics show the Kai but description doesn't mention it.
  5. What value does downvoting add to this forum anyway? Seems like the option should be done away with altogether.
  6. F-22s and F-35s will launch recoverable gremlins attack drones http://www.foxnews.com/tech/2018/05/11/f-22s-and-f-35s-will-launch-recoverable-gremlins-attack-drones.html
  7. Completed my 31-A alternate color scheme.
  8. I've been on a roll lately with Hasegawa VF-31 kits. Here is my newly completed Delta-5 along with my current work in progress. I guess you can call it a Mirya inspired color scheme.
  9. Sure. Here are some pics I found on the web. It has a stretchy, plasticy feel to it. It will allow you to make some pretty tight curves depending on which size tape you use. The adhesion is really good. The paint lines look really sharp after removing the tape. No issues with seepage.
  10. Anyone else attempt the hasegawa vf31-j/c kits? Between matching the blue paint, the masking hell and rage inducing decals around the cockpit area, this is probably the most challenging kit I've tried. That said, my range of experience isn't too broad. Mostly Hase valks. I am enjoying it though and learning a lot from the experience. Oh, and thank you Tamiya for the curved surface masking tape.
  11. Absolutely gorgeous. Just got mine in the mail as well. Who says you need forward swept wings to be more "heroic"? Kairos is definitely my favorite Delta design. I'll probably turn mine into a red Miriya-ish variant.
  12. Yes, I don't mind properly tagged spoilers as well. I'm actually more interested in the mecha than the story.
  13. The Wright Immelman VF-22 as well perhaps?
  14. Hiryu

    Hasegawa VF-31

    Looks like the Hasegawa VF-31a is being re-released. Reservations are available on Hobby Search! I'm not letting this this one slip away again. http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10472150
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