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Everything posted by hobbes221

  1. It feels too rushed, with Marvel everyone had their own movie/movies or were at least in other movies (Hawkeye and Black Widow) to introduce them to us before Avengers. So far we only have had a Superman movie so that means a new Batman, Wonder Woman and Lex Luthor to intro in the movie. So either it is going to cram everything into a stupid amount of time and it is going to be a mess. Or it is going to be three hours long and to me there have been a few movies that can pull off that kind of run time well. The last Transformers movie is a not only a bad movie (understatement) but a bad long movie (2h45m) that makes it feel even worse. I hope that they keep the intro/backstory for the new guys short, like five minutes short. We know who these people are you don't have to give their whole life. For me best example of this would be Iron Man, they did that little news montage thing, a few quick scenes to intro the characters then bam! he is in the event that starts him on his path. Worst example (again for ME) is Batman Begains, they spent way too much time on Wayne before he even thinks about becoming Batman. They could have started with The Dark Knight and with only a few small changes and it would have been just fine in my book. (Really they only needed The Dark Knight, I'm not too fond of the other two at all)
  2. Caught it today with my brothers and man was it great! I liked the fact that they didn't take half the movie filling in the back story and the flow of the whole movie was very well done. I don't know much of history of the comics and I didn't feel lost at all. And Rocket was great!
  3. Have you tried different ammo? Has anyone else shot the gun, any chance the sights are off? Do you dry fire? If so is there any noticeable movement in the gun that you feel shouldn't be there? Cdr Fokker is right on the grip, practice at home as much as you can. How is your HK set up? DA/SA, DAO... ? My 226 is DA/SA and I dry fire it soooo much in double action that I don't even think about the first round being double action when I'm at the range . But I can really tell right away if I mess up my grip or lighten my grip too much. Getting good with a pistol is one of the harder things to do in shooting, staying good is even harder with the time and work you need to put into it. Keep us up dated and have fun with it.
  4. Sweet stick man! Jasonc - Good to hear your AR runs, my brother and I have put together quite a few ARs for family and friends and as long as you follow the manual and don't cut corners (cheap, out of spec parts are the biggest reason I see ARs fail next to bad mags) they do tend to work. What issues do you have with your pistol skills?
  5. If you're talking to me - I fully get that. Its more of just the fact that every other platform I run right now (AR15 1911 P226) has me doing something either before (safety off) or after firing (safety on/decock) Its just a mental hangup, nothing more.
  6. Picked a gen 3 G19 (along with a metric butt-load 'o mags) right before the laws went stupid here in CO. It was ether that or an M&P and I was able to find mags for the glock at the time. I really want/need to send it off to Cold Bore Customs to have them work their magic on the frame as I don't like the finger groves and want the hump on the back strap flattened out. I do have some issues with glocks (striker fired pistols in general) as I grew up on 1911s and P226s so not having a safety or a heavier/longer first trigger pull kinda messes with my head. But it has its place in the tool box, it fills a few rolls for me so it works.
  7. Jasonc - That looks almost just like my brother's AR, I'll have to see if I can snag a pic of it. Quick question, how do you like that grip? its the Troy metal one right? I've been thinking about picking one up.
  8. Sweet! I want a can for my AR so bad, then a can for my sig and then a .22 and a can for that one and so on and so on.
  9. On lefties and the BAD lever, I have seen one or two guys cut the part of the lever that goes in the trigger guard area off and use the bottom of the vertical part of the lever in the same way that a right handed person would. I have a BAD lever on my AR and a long an AR works with it (some ARs don't seem to play nice with it) I will run them. They really make handling the carbine faster and smoother for me
  10. Sweet setup man. drop some lube on them and just work the pins in and out and a few dozen/hundred times and see if that helps any.
  11. Only problem with bird or target loads in a shotgun for defensive use is that they are not defensive ammo and are not ideal for that role Using them to train without using defensive loads leaves one unprepared for the reality of how the gun runs with other ammo. If used along with other types of ammo in training then it has its place. The following is from DocGKR over on M4CARBINE.net If you go and look up his posts over there he has more info and photos as well.
  12. Yeah the price is big, but for me worth every penny. One of my biggest gripes of the TLR series is that mounts seem to be a problem and I just don't like that clamp/screw system they use. I think the X400 uses a system like that too but I have no interest in that model.
  13. I'm a Surefire fan big time, My Sig has a X300 and my AR has a X300U. The X300 has two rating for lumens, the old at 110 and the new at 170 (I think) - both are underrated, people have tested them and have found the X300 to put out about 200 lumens. For a long time (maybe even still to a degree) Surefire rates/rated their light's output with batteries at about 50% power or so. This gave a lower output but a more realistic rating. I have a Malkoff P60 head in another light that is rated at 225 or so lumens and it's very hard tell which is brighter - it or the X300. Of course the X300U smokes them both with 500 lumens. the X series light has a TIR lens as opposed to the reflector of the TLR, and I like the tighter beam the lens gives my lights (the Malkoff P60 uses a lens as well) If you shop around around you can find the X300 for around $200-225 or less right now. About the same size as the one you are looking at but I feel they are way tougher lights. Also I like the fact that you have options in the mounting system that come with the light along with being able to order the DG switch that sits right under your middle finger on the grip. Another note on the mounts is that I have heard from those on police qual firing lines that they have seen many TLRs going down range as the mounts failed. Someone on another site who is an engineer pulled apart a surefire X series light and said that it looks to be the toughest little light he had ever seen. I have been very happy with all my Surefires and the one time the light I gave my mother had it's clicky tail cap go bad, one email and a new tail cap was on the way, without having to send it in to be looked at, without having to give any warranty info or anything. They took me on my word that I had a bad part and sent a part that costs about $50 bucks out to me with zero questions, didn't even ask for the old one back. That type of service goes a long way with me and I'm happy to pay a bit more to a company like that. Also what type of Glock? The Gen 3 Glock 22 (.40) have been know to have some issues with mounted lights. Its not all of them, seems to be hit or miss. What ever light you get, if it runs off of 123 batteries buy the Surefire brand ones, they sell for cheaper than most and are very good, my local Lowes sells a two pack for $4.95, while the two big name brands sell single 123s for about $9 bucks. sorry this is long, I feel a weapon mounted is a must these days - and a good one even more so.
  14. If you can get the chance, try everything you can before you buy. Every platform has its ups and downs. To me the biggest things when running a shotgun are- One -make sure you test the pattern with the load you will use for defense - some gun/ammo mixes can kick out a very tight pattern, so tight you could very well miss your target. (don't know how much area/land your home is on or how long the longest indoor shot you may have to take) Two - make sure both of you know how to run the gun, i.e. look up 'short-stroking'. Make sure you can work the safety, load it, clear it and the like in the dark. Three - recoil management! for me that means leaning into the gun and PUSHING away on the foregrip with my support hand, by doing this I find I can run it faster than by PULLING the full weight of the gun into my shoulder as many say to do. When someone asks me "what gun?" for what you listed I say find something that is comfortable, for many that's a 9mm striker fired pistol like a Glock 19 or the M&P 9. My reasons are that one I want the person or persons shooting it to be able to really run it, if you or your wife can't go out and put 50 or 75 rounds of 12ga. through the shotgun on a range trip but has no problem with a 100+ rounds of 9mm, I feel that you get more out of the pistol. (and I don't want you to think that I think anyone is weak, some people just can't run a shotgun, be it due to body size, age, injury or any other factor.) Another reason I like pistols for home defense is because I can hold a pistol in one hand all day if need be and still have full use of it. To me this is important because sometimes I may hear a 'bump' and need to go check it out, having a hand free allows me to open/ close doors, turn on/off lights and the like, and it also allows me to have a phone in the other hand. For me if I hear a 'bump' then my Sig P226 9mm with 21 rounds and my cell phone comes with me to go see whats going on. If I hear SOMEONE in MY HOUSE then its my AR15 with 28 rounds, both have mounted lights on them and I feel ANY gun for self defense should have a light on it. Any firearm you get make sure that you test it with the ammo you plan to use - please look up Doc GKR online, he posts on places like M4CARBINE.net and his word on ammo is golden. Also get to the range as much as you can! Practice is the key!
  15. As for a standard piston system I think the only hope for that is on the Big Army picking a piston M16/M4 FOW then the tech data may become open source and have companies bid on the contract as they did with the M-16. I think that in one of the latest trials Colt did NOT submit a model because they wanted to keep the design proprietary and not lose 'trade secrects'. The HK416 as a standard would be the heat, I feel its the most well thought out, tested and proven system around. Now they just need to made a HK417 that runs 7.62 Pmags and we are golden. What I really want in a piston system is for Remington to let all the work they have done on the ACR come over to the civilian side, lighter weight, alloy lower and the rest. Oh and I NEED a Tavor
  16. DI for me, only piston ARs I'd want are H&K and LWRC but I'm not in any real rush to grab one. Not a fan of conversions as there always seems to be a catch - ether in how well they run, what type of odd proprietary parts they use (big fan of being able to just hit up BCM, Midway or Brownells for spares) or limiting the types of forend or rail system I can run. A proper Mil-Spec'ish setup will run just fine. Look up the BCM carbine 'Filthy 14' and see what you think. Any reason for the piston or just because you can? (totally valid reason in my book) To me the only REAL reason (to me) for a piston system is for full auto, short barrels or both together. That is where I feel pistons really give you the most bang for the buck. And yeah the UBR is a heavy SOB my brother has one on his AR and it really adds weight in the ass, would maybe swap out my ACS for one if they made a sloping cheek version.
  17. I understand the need to sell the firearms and it sucks that you need to do it. As Dio said above Gunbroker.com and the like are most likely your best bet. Only real down side I could see right now is that most people are after the larger capacity guns i.e. - Glocks, M&Ps, Sigs and the like. More so on magazines, a lot of people have spent more on magazines than guns right now. Things like revolvers and single stack, small caliber semi-autos just are not in much demand right now. Just looking real fast this is what I found for ballpark prices -PPK $350-450 -Beretta 21 $275-300 -S&W 36 $350-500 And these are REAL rough without seeing them, so don't hold me to them. Hope things work out for you. (Keep the S&W, you never know what tomorrow will bring)
  18. Thanks again, for anyone thinking about spraying their own stick I would pick a cheap airsoft or nerf gun to do a test run on. I did with a old MP5SD and I felt a lot better before hitting the AR. The AR started out as a stock LMT STD 16" Defender 2000. So yeah, lot of part swapping to get to that pic above.
  19. Thanks, its just Aervoe spray paint with some quick 'multicam'ish' stencils I cut out. Hardest part was spraying the ACOG, I was very nervous on the first pass of the rattle can over the optic. And I want to touch it up by adding a few more/larger darker area in the pattern so it breaks up the outline more.
  20. So was chatting with Benson13 in PMs and he asked about that chestrig under my 1911 so just tossing these pics up of kicks if anyone cares. the AR is just about set up perfect, just need/want a Surefire flash hider or brake (can't make up my mind) a Geissele trigger and a few small odds n ends. Now just need to take the time and take better photos...
  21. Yeah I'm in the same boat with ammo, I don't like to go below a set number of rounds on hand if I think I may not be able to replace my supply easy or fast.
  22. No issues at all with the 18lb recoil spring, but keep in mind that I lube the slide rails with TW25B and the rest of the gun with Slip 2000 EWL and run 230 gr rounds so I can't say what will work 100% with any other combo (gun/spring/lube/ammo/???) If/when I change out any part, I only change ONE thing, run the gun for a set number of rounds to see if it has any effect on the operation first. Worst case you try the spring just take the stock one with you any swap at the range so you can compare between the two on the fly. Glad I could help, I'll try to answer any other questions the best I can.
  23. My take on the 1911 and break-ins is that at some point the super tight race guns and the fighting guns crossed lines. From what I have seen and heard from those I would bet my life on is that for a 1911 the most important thing is that the barrel and slide lock up the same way each and every time, how tight the slide is to frame and the like are just fine tuning the gun for that last bit accuracy and if not done correct can end up causing issues. If you hold a US GI 1911, some will rattle like mad but still shoot well within the range of good combat effective grouping for a shooter. It may not stack the rounds on top of each other but it will run longer than a race gun. The other part in this for me is lube, I only use Slip 2000 EWL and TW25B on all my firearms. For the record I own a Colt XSE 1911 that runs like mad with all ammo to date other than some odd Wolf semi jacketed hollow point rounds. For mags it's Chip McCormick 8 and 10 rounders followed by Wilson. I use a 18lb recoil spring over the stock 16lb as I feel better knowing the slide has a bit more power to lock back up into battery with when dirty and it seems to reduce felt recoil a bit. To date it has just around 4500 rounds ran with only 3 or 4 failures at the time I was using Wolf ammo and/or crap lube. Max rounds so far without any cleaning was 650 on a all day shoot, she was dirty but no issues at all that day. To me if I was going to buy today, for the money the best out of the box 1911s are Colt and Springfield. All the above is my take on it and only that, take it for what it's worth.
  24. Just sent off my payment to HLJ now. So how does this group buy for the packs work? I am down for one of each.
  25. Re the EA-6B the Navy did a few birds with paint jobs like for the centennial of naval aviation (IIRC), here are a few I found awhile back. I think I have more saved somewhere and I know that there are more photos out there edit to add - Would loved to have seen an F-14 done up like this.
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