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BlueMax

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Posts posted by BlueMax

  1. 10 hours ago, ErikElvis said:

    I would like to know how my shuttle tydirium and b wing yellowed sitting in a dark room. And they’re gray plastic. 

    That’s the thing... it sure ain’t exposure to UV in your case, though prior exposure might play a part. Yellowing can occur regardless of the color of plastic, just a matter of whether it is obvious or not.

     

    Maybe a few questions you can ask answer:

    Were the items handled with bare hands regularly prior to storage?

    Is it an even yellowing? Does the yellowing somewhat correspond to where contact was made when handling?m, or mainly the “top-sides” and parts generally visible to the eye?

    How long were displayed in regular settings before being settled in a dark room? Why kind of lights were you using in regular settings?

    How hot and humid is your dark room?

     

  2. 4 hours ago, MKT said:

    I wonder how did you deal with the humidity? More frequent AC turned-on? Use a dehumidifier? Use desiccant packs?

    AC use would probably give the best results, but in my case, that room has no AC, so  desiccant packs/ hungry hippos (from Daiso) for me now, plus a hygrometer for measurement.

    This is in addition to making sure I limit my time inside (previously I would spend lengthy periods inside trying to look for stuff, and that would result in me becoming very hot and sweaty, raising the temp and humidity levels. I made use of the Circuit Breaker period ( in effect a Soft covid lock down) to fully rearrange the room and offloaded loads of unwanted stuff. Now things are sorted properly and catalogued so I won’t have to spend unnecessary time going through stuff.

  3. 7 hours ago, slide said:

    Do we have any chemists on the Forum?

    I'd be very interested to see how some of the solutions that have been tried and tested on the forums stack up against any scientific knowledge on the subject.

    Not a Chemist, but from a common sense point of view, what I can think of and what I am currently trying to do is minimise the risk factors at play.

    All the risk factors, seem to have this in common: Exposure of bare plastic to: AIR, combined with heat, humidity, organic contaminations (oils, sweat, etc) and visible / invisible spectrum of electromagnetic radiation.

    Except for visible light, i am attempting to eliminate or at least minimise the risk factors’ direct interaction with the bare plastic. I am currently sealing all new and opened Macross toys’ white or light coloured bare plastics with a top coat, specifically Gunze’s Mr Super Clear (semi gloss) and the UV cut version (flat).

    Of course, we won’t know the outcome until a few years later... and even then, it might not be conclusive. I’m not setting this up as an experiment after all, more to protect my toys the best I can.

     

  4. 1 hour ago, ErikElvis said:

    I have an original shuttle tydyrium  That sat in a warm dark room in the house for 10 years. It yellowed. Infuriated me.  
     

    my display valks to get a splash of light on the displays but have not noticed any yellowing. 

    I have a room, totally non-ventilated, which is used to store all my valks and other stuff, from about 2011 onwards. Since then, more than 95% of the time, the room is not accessed and is is basically in darkness until the ligts are switched on. However, the room is constantly between 30 - 32 Deg Celsius (86-90 Deg F) and maybe even higher on warmer days. Humidity level is high, because I live in the tropics (I have since corrected this in the last couple of months to be more inline with ambient humidity), and is evident by instances of whitish mold growth on some of the boxes (most obvious on the TF masterpiece black boxes). There are 2 main results.

    1. Toys that have basically seen very little or no display outside its original packaging and stayed in packaging for the duration of the 9 years. Very limited to zero handling by hand.

    2. Toys that have seen substantial time outside (months to couple of years out out box, but out of direct sunlight, but exposed to flourescent light at night for up to 4-5 hours each night) and then either left in the dark exposed, or put into storage in ziplock bags and sealed. Also, most have been handled by bare skin pror to being put back in storage.

    For toys under 1: There seems to be little to no yeallowing at all, when I pulled a couple out of storage just days ago to take pictures to facilitate selling (Yamato 1/48 VF-1A Max and Kakizaki) . To be clear, alot of MISB toys' condition are unable to be ascertained.

    For toys under 2: Substantial yellowing, and for some, very serious yellowing. Regardless of whether they have been in ziplock bags or not. (Examples include: Yamato 1/48 Roy Focker and VF-1A Hikaru, All 1/60 VF-1 V1s, 1/60 Roy Focker VF-1 V2 and Bandai 1/55 CF,  

    Interestingly, once those in group 2 were exposed to regular ambient light, after a couple of days, the yellowing subsided a little, not as bad, but still obvious. (intense exposure to sunlight for the severely yellowed items yielded good (up to 70% less yellowing), though with somewhat uneven results (some parts only yielded 20% or so)

    Makes me wonder how many factors there were in play here simultaneously, and how much each contributes. Heat? Light? Prior exposure to visible/ invisible spectrum of light? Organic residue after being handled by bare hands? Moisture? Quality of plastics (some parts remained as white as ever)?

     

     

     

     

  5. 58 minutes ago, EastwindS2k said:

    Thanks man.  

    I don't have a step by step, but I shared my thoughts about this model on my facebook page https://www.facebook.com/Bryans-Macross-Workshop-100854188399106 

    I'm trying to keep it simple here on the Macross Forum :) 

    Nono, I’m not asking for step by step, I’m just saying that I appreciate the sharing on your choice of TOP coats, as well as how you prepared the resin kits, and the various things to take care of

  6. Hi all, so I’ve scored some loose Regults... only thing is....they don’t come with Tamashii stand adapters. Does anyone know of any shapeways link that has such replacements?

     

    thanks in advance

  7. 11 minutes ago, jeniusornome said:

    I would have to disagree with the Bandai being priced better than an Arcadia.

    You've got to pay 18k yen for the VF, plus another 13k for the missiles and SSP. Assuming you can find all of the parts for retail price that's still 31k. An Arcadia PF VF-1S with SSP set retailed for just under 28k. It was under 22k for the regular version (if you don't mind doing decals yourself).

    Even the standalone release is more expensive - the VF with missiles is going to be around 22k, but Arcadia's two VF-1S releases that didn't include SSP were just under 17k (and included missiles).

     

    I'm not counting the ridiculous secondary market prices for the figures - a  $300 VF-1S, $90 missile set and $130 SSP, in three separate boxes, with shipping, will probably set you back double an Arcadia VF-1S set (roughly $230 before shipping). The DX figure is nice, but I don't see how anyone could think it's worth double an Arcadia.

    You see the true cost of a fully decked out DX VF-1!

    Well, thats the genius of bandai's marketing (besides artificially created scarcity)..... making us think the the DX Chogokins are more reasonably priced, but with all bells and whistles in (which all diehard fans will want anyway), it is waaaay more substantial that what we think we are willing to pay when we tried to convince ourselves that a plain VF-1 is enough.... 

  8. 10 hours ago, Acteon said:

    Not if you're careful. I put a figure out for two days and the difference was remarkable. 

    I know most people think it's a joke, but it's really not. It's a better solution than a chemical bath.

    I have tried this for myself, and the results are good, and it is probably less damaging than perioxide if exposure isn't long term (like weeks or months). However, for some of the more serious yellowing, it cannot be completely reversed, and can only achieve about 70-80% results.

  9. I have tried the Sunlight only method, it aomewhat  works, but much slower than peroxide, and some stubborn yellowed  parts refuse to return to the original whiteness 

    Right side VF-171 was not subjected to the sun treatment. Total exposure time was about 5 hours.

     

    902307FC-5264-4C6E-8A65-5BAAE3E41FBA.jpeg

  10. 1 hour ago, BlueMax said:

    I had the DX YF-19 shipped to me the same way. When confronted, they apologized, but did not take responsibility, and out of "goodwill" only gave me an one-off paltry few dollars worth of store credit.

    For whatever it is worth, the DX YF-19 was shipped and sold by Amazon itself. After that, I never had a problem like that with Amazon Japan, but obviously the problem is still occuring. My impression is that even if the item is sold by a third party, it is still packed and shipped by Amazon, not the 3rd party seller.

  11. I had the DX YF-19 shipped to me the same way. When confronted, they apologized, but did not take responsibility, and out of "goodwill" only gave me an one-off paltry few dollars worth of store credit.

  12. Caught it a few days ago, and i feel.....

     

    Spoiler

    Slow start.... and perhaps because i'm an old fart now, I didn't care about the teen romance between Parker and MJ, nor Betty and Ned. I felt it could have been left out entirely and the story would have not have been altered substantially. Spider-man could have been the one picking up the projector instead and figuring out the plot independently. 

    I don't like the idea of Peter Parker trying to shirk responsibility. Just out of character. Whatever happened to him living out the words "with great power comes great responsibility"? Also, to me it was just incredibly rude to reject calls from someone, especially when that someone would only ever call you for something really urgent. Would you like someone like that on your team who cannot be trusted to answer the call when it comes?

    Normally i'd feel bad for Peter in the movies, but this time, I don't. he deserved everything. He worsened the mess (the mess can be argued to have originated from Stark) because Peter shirked responsibility, and in such a irresponsible manner too.

    Also, Stark, though Even Dead I'm The Hero (EDITH), this hero sure created loads of villians in the MCU even-when-dead (or especially when dead). How many more disgruntled employees or steam-rolled contractors, are waiting in the wings waiting to become the next supervillian? Seems like his legacy is pretty mixed.

    On the bright side, the back story of Mysterio in the movie makes perfect sense and the scene where he lures Peter into an illusion works perfectly for me. Having JK Simmons reprise his role was perfect, though I felt like i've been splashed with cold water after feeling warm and cozy... definitely makes me feel bad. Though I will say that it reflects the reality of information manipulation happening in the real world, especially relevant in today's context.

    Perfectly serviceable movie, just that the part where Peter was actively shirking responsibility was particularly jarring for me.

     

     

  13. Dear all, i’ve managed to score a VF-31A! But it is used and has a big problem: the wing root swivelling mechanism, specifically the tube/cylinder that swivels round the rod for transformation is broken. Can anybody advise how to go about doing that? The broken tube parts are safely in storage.

     

    thanks in advance

    image.jpg

  14. 19 hours ago, ScrambledValkyrie said:

    So the second series of 1/100 armor is going to be more different color schemes? That’s great to know that the first series was successful enough that they would extend the line.

    Yeah, great to see the 1/100 armors did well enough to warrant a 2nd series. I really wonder for the 1/60 version if they have managed to get close to their target with about 1 more month to go to hit the minumim number for production.

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