Jump to content

Silvestri

Members
  • Posts

    25
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Silvestri

  1. $660 is a good price.. I sold my Club-M UD last year for a little more than that.. think $700USD. Needed the money.. but I have a couple of Hasegawa 1/48s to fill the spot.. albeit with a little less detail.
  2. Glad yours are all without QC issues.. mine from NY has a spot on the right wing where it looks like someone dropped some glue on the plastic, then sanded it off before the paint was applied. Other than that it's the perfect VF.
  3. At the time of release, I wasn't making much more than a dishwasher's salary at the local pub, but I managed to come up with enough tip money to buy the Club-M Ultimate Valkyrie. Then later on, it was the 5000 piece Lego Millenium Falcon at around $700CDN... And more recently, I just put down a deposit on a 1/8 scale Lamborghini Aventador model... But the biggest of them all, I spent $25k on a 1:1 working toy Honda S2000.
  4. Hmm.. did anyone else's VF-4 come without the fin under the nose cone? Took mine out of the box the other day and I noticed there's no fin. Looked around in the plastic packaging and didn't find it loose either, or on the floor or anywhere on the table. It was ordered from HLJ.. wonder what are the chances they'll get me a replacement? Thank you..
  5. I still want my first Ozma renewal version..
  6. Beautiful.. very well done. Any hints or suggestions for those that haven't built theirs yet?
  7. I wonder if I can commission anyone (where's wm-cheng?) to build mine.. haha.
  8. I managed to get one in on order at HLJ when it was still available this morning. Thanks MW!
  9. Been out of the loop re:toys for a while, but do the new Valks improve upon the original VF25 line by Bandai?
  10. I think the key is to tap the holes first with the screws then thread them in. Or I just don't know my own strength.
  11. Overtightening screws = bad. I cranked down on the part that binds the shoulder to the body and the retaining ring snapped in two and flew out somewhere. Just be careful not to overtighten anything.. mine was loose until I tightened it another 1/8 of a turn at which point the ring snapped. Thanks again for getting the shoulders Graham!
  12. I'll sell you a resin and PE transkit for it for a buncha cash - it's called the Club-M 1/48th, haha!
  13. Picked this one up in October when HLJ had their free shipping blitz if you used Paypal and opened it just after Christmas. It's a Fokker with a knurled hinge pin.
  14. Durn it.. no reason to keep my 1/48 Club M kit now...
  15. Yep, I have that problem. Also, the hip connector is very loose.. gotta find a way to tighten that so his torso doesn't flop back.
  16. I don't know if anyone has looked at the color differences on the Ozma DX. Under lighting (sun, fluorescent, incandescent, pick one), compare the shades of grey between the grey plastic, and painted grey metal. If you're freaking out to such a high degree from seeing Luca's, why aren't you freaking out and returning/rejecting Ozma's? Keep in mind, that colored injected plastics and painted metal will always look different. Go outside and compare the colors between your car's body and a plastic piece (bumper or something). Having collected die cast cars and planes for the last 20 years of my life, there are huge differences between painted metal and painted plastic - more so on metallic paint, but you get over it after a while.
  17. I find it surprising that some of Bandai's FIX line include extra antennae, but they didn't include any with the DX's.
  18. Blech.. the paint scheme looks better on a race car.
×
×
  • Create New...