Kurt

Do you mean the gun pod? I just mask off the red marker light and paint it just like the rest of the valk.

1-1/2 to 2 weeks.

Not pastels. I used an oil wash for the panel lines and post shaded with Tamiya smoke.

Per the Hasegawa painting guide, no colored arrows on the head.

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Hello again everyone. I thought I would post the latest custom I just finished. Another Moon Act Minmay Guard Valk. This is pretty much just like the previous one I did. Let me know what you think. Enjoy!

Only 3 in the world, why so many? I can customize a 1/48 for you and I promise that it will be one of a kind....

Jeremy, I am available for commission jobs. There are a couple of links below to some Hasegawa Valks I have done. I have images of several more that I can post, or give me your e-mail and I will send them to you. PM me and we discuss exactly which kits you are interested in and how you would want them built. http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=3209&hl= http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=331&hl=

I have never had my hands on a 1/72 YF-21. So I don't know the difficulty in taking one apart for customizing. However I am willing to try.

Oh, come on. You will never regret it. Thanks everyone for the wonderful compliments.....

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Hey everyone. Here are images of yet one more Enigma that I have done. I know, your probably tired of them by now. This one is weathered a bit more than previous ones and I used a different ID number. Let me know what you think. And if you like what you see, it could be yours. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...item=5916911502 Shameless plug....

pm sent.........

Taking a 1/48 apart and re-assembling it is very easy.......

Welcome to the boards. And I would be happy to answer your questions. 1. I personally use denatured alcohol. I know this has been a topic of discussion in the past and it seems there are different products being used. I have tried a product by Polly S that is specifically for paint stripping. I would stay away from it since it tends to make the plastic very brittle. I just soak the parts in alcohol for a 5-10 minutes and give it a scrub with very fine steel wool. Completely disassemble the valk and of course only treat the parts with paint on them. I just scrub enough to get most of the paint off. I don't worry about seam lines or hard reach areas. 2. I usually don't sand before I prime. I say usually because there may be a rough area or two that I want to smooth out. I do give every part a rub down in rubbing alcohol to remove any greasy finger prints or mold agents. For primer I like to use Mr Surfacer 1000 from Gunze Sangyo. There are cheaper alternatives, but this has never failed me. Thin it and airbrush it on. 3. I tend to do a bit of both. After the pre-shading and when I am applying the main color I will "fill in" the area first and lightly spray the entire part to blend everyhting in and get the right look. Although doing this sometimes covers up the pre-shading too much and then I will do a bit of post shading to bring it back. I hope that answers your questions, let me know if there is anything else you would like advice on.

No reason, just habit I guess,

I pre-shade the panel lines with an airbrush. Then apply the main color and add a wash to the panel lines. And then depending on the look I am after I may post shade the panel lines just a bit, just as I did on the 1J.

This one took me about two weeks. Working on it in between other projects.