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zanderwitaz

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Everything posted by zanderwitaz

  1. Yeah, Im poor so thats definitely a factor when looking at which valkyrie line to collect. Yamatos are very cool valks if you plan on keeping them boxed or displayed loose untouched.But, as big F said, bandais are much more robust and wayyyyy cheaper. And, I also wouldnt modify a yammie unless I had a ton of money. ( I only could afford 1 1/60 valk). having bootlegs around is a HUGE plus. I cannot stress how handy those things are. for example, a longgggg time ago, Kingnor made a fully ball jointed super articulated bootleg 1/55. I gave his design a try, and incorporated my own modifications and those of others. It was a compelte sucess, so I decided to turn it into a high quality custom. before: after: (still havent finished the black details on the chest plate) It includes every modification we have come up with so far, except for the tapered swingbar and swivel thighs. (soon to be added, I cant find my saw) and of course, my scratch built head with an integrated ball joint. phew! glad thats almost done.
  2. dont forget the sanded tab thread mentioned in this thread! also, ball jointed shoulders. I put them on all 12 valks that I have!
  3. I never watched the original show. did the VF-1D ever have super armor on it? I know the super O did from the movie obviously but thats different. Im thinking of putting armor on my 1d.
  4. Ebay, of course. the only one on at the time. The plastic is surprisingly better quality than the rest of the ones I've encountered. The joints were just as crappy though. I swapped in a bandai nose section and a few metal hinges. It's still tan and orange, but its a VF-1d now.
  5. thanks. Its yellowed, but I dont care! About the bootlegs, I remember some guy kept selling 3 with fast packs for 15 + 10 shipping. I cant find those auctions anymore. when I was younger, I used to get them off www.vf1x.com , but I havent seen them around for years and years.
  6. Its actually hurt the transformer market in my opinion. It seems everyone put their stuff up after the movie came out and flooded the market with everything. i picked up a jetfire a week ago for 14 bucks shipped.
  7. I cant find these anywhere! all I can find is the crappy silver ones with the added random panels and bumps, and the smaller more 1/60 scale bootleg. what happened to the good one that was on a bubble with the blue fast packs?? I need help finding these for Arms and boosters!
  8. zanderwitaz

    Macross VF's

    Im guessing you'll get around 45-55 for the damaged yamato yf-19 and you'll get about 7-9 for the battroid valk, and about 8-12 for the incomplete super gerwalk. These are about what they go for on ebay. I got mine for a little bit more, but they were Mint in package, and complete. Hope that helps.
  9. Im shocked you still havent tried this for yourself! heres a convincing picture by the way:
  10. I was going to suggest the sundowners scheme as well, but someone beat me to it. with that said, Im all for a vf-41 black aces sceme!
  11. Thats a ton of work. and, in my opinion it is still not perfect transformation. I would say just go with bandai's older 1/72 variable kits and swap in some hasegawa parts.
  12. heres the pic posted before. you can see on the side of the arm where its sanded off. same valk:
  13. First off, Id like to say hello! I havent been on these forums for a looong time. to answer the question, I sand the arm notches completely off of every 1/55 custom I do. It does look much better, and and after I add my special ball jointed arm mod, and wrist mod, these 1/55s can do almost anyhting with their arms. I have a super posable 1/55 that I completed about a year ago that I will post up soon. EDIT: I remember I posted a detailed pic in BigF's "My Custom Chunkie, Oh no It another 1/55 Thigh mod" thread. its on the second page, along with my ball jointed shoulder mounts.
  14. I did a 1/55 gunpod that collapses and has no scope. Its on another valk right now. as for the joints, these modifications are also great in gerwalk mode, and I designed the mods for all 3 modes. It still transforms beautifully
  15. Big F, I used the Garan kit and the Piruk kit. the other kits have bulky arms with round and ribbed surfaces which make them hard to sand mount. each kit comes with 9 ball joints and sockets. 6 are easy to use, the other 3 need more sanding (the head and ankle joints). I recommend the Garan kit for leg joints and the Piruk kit for arm joints. Im next going to make swivel wrists, more posable thrusters, and ball jointed elbows. Im thinking about just making a general super posable 1/55 thread so we can all post in the same thread and so I can stop myself from hijacking your thread.
  16. bet you guys didnt expect a chunkey monkey entry!
  17. heres another pic. I had to shave off the cuff to get good mobility out of the ball joint. I also have a ball jointed head modification I will post soon. So far, I have a valk with ball jonted hips, arms, and head, and swivel knees. It is indeed a sight to see once all these mods are all done!
  18. I know you'll never believe this, but I thought of something similar ball joint shoulder mod.around the same time. I used part of the arm jonts from the 3.50$ bionicle figures, and the sockets fit miraculously.its a complete sucess and the battroid han hold the gunpod wit 2 hands. I also did some trimming to allow the arms to bend in a little more, like a regular human.
  19. love the gerwalk. theres just something cool about hovering in a jet fighter. I like all the gerwalk forms except for the stealth valkyrie's and the yf-21's. I love the vf-0, vf-1, thunderbolt, and yf-19.
  20. Is anyone casting the regular super 1/55 armor set?
  21. Well the bootlegs fall into two catagories as far as 1/55 is concerned. You have the Joons bootleg which is second only to the original Taka or Bandai, these are the ones you see in the packaging similar to the Taka packing from the 80`s. Then you have the $5-$10 ones that come on a card and blister these are cheap all plastic casts of I think a late Taka. They are made of soft plastic much the same as a Hasegawa kit. Many of the parts are interchangable with the real 1/55`s. The are inferior to all in build quaility but they are great for customs. They cost nothing and can be glued with normal modelkit glue and filled sanded etc very easily. I have four of them that came on different cards two with fastpacks and two with out. You can do all the mods Skull does with the exception of the taper swing bar as they are made of plastic. You can though sub the parts for the metal ones if you have some spare. I have been modding one of these to do a more radical thigh and leg mod. the plastic parts are a god send as if I were to use the metal leg parts from an original it would take ages to file them out as I did in minutes on the bootleg. 418299[/snapback] wait wait, yhis mod doesnt have an advantage in battroid mode? you just gotta expiriment with it man.
  22. Thanks! I just did it strait across for simplicity. I was inspired by your blue valk, so I gave it a try. I cut them in half with my scroll saw, and then used two lego 1 X 2 technic swivels and the plastic dowel. ( I used these: http://media.peeron.com/ldraw/images/2/3004.png with the holes in them) So, I trimmed them down, glued them in and connected them with the lego dowel. To make sure they will swivel tightly, i added a drop of super glue to the dowel, so its super snug. the coolest thing about using legos is that i can detatch the legs whenever I want. makes taking apart the valkyrie much easier! Gerwalk is my fav. mode, and the A stance is awesome. for the arms, I took out the screw on the shoulder plates, sanded down a little rut, and glued the plate pieces together. Since its at the top of the plate, they still lock in in jet mode because it is the bottom of the plate that locks the arms in. Im going to do this to all my valk customs!
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