Kamina337

Yes thanks for sharing this again! I only wish they were up close shots of the paint being applied. But the English translation is pretty good. They clearly describe the issue of how difficult it is to smoothly and properly apply the glow paint. The site I recommended in the US may very well be a business that imports this paint. And repackages it. But I assume the opposite could also be true. They may have imported it in bulk for the project. Either way it’s pretty much an exact match.

I would definitely start there. If you get your technique down it’s probably all you’ll need. And the colors are yellow and bubblegum red But of course it might even be more impressive if you decide to employ others. I often wondered if blue would have been worthwhile somewhere. But overall the bubblegum red and the yellow. Do not dilute it. It’s going to seem very thick. And like I said I was having the best luck using toothpick points as applicators. Some areas it was as simple as lightly playing a dot down with a toothpick and leaving it there to dry. Other areas I kind of had to set it down and then tug at it to drag it across the areas that require slightly larger spots. Think of it as a paint that feels very thick and grainy. It is also why when you look at pictures of the premium up close it is not like a flat evenly applied paint application. But rather kind of three-dimensional spots dotted on. But it was one of the clues that I had the right sort of paint. Here’s a picture of the actual premium finish buildings compared to a dot on top of the paint cap. You can see the texture. Whatever you use don’t settle for any other cheap glow in the dark acrylic paints. This is definitely the product you’re looking for.Also I recommend having a black light nearby. It will help you to see where you may have spilled some so you can clean it up from areas it is not supposed to be. Think of a barely visible paint smear that lights up like a sports field under black light. Whatever you use don’t settle for any other cheap glow in the dark acrylic paints. This is definitely the product you’re looking for. Panel lining with a fine point Gundam marker and a coating of gundam topcoat is really all that’s left to set the premium finish apart.

So I don’t think I had an actual thread. I think I posted some pictures in this thread and was looking in the forums for whatever pictures and advice I could use to try to pull it off. I actually have a few more details I need to add as when the pandemic came I found myself focused on other things. When I’m done I will use a topcoat matte or semi gloss finish. However one thing I will probably leave different from the premium as I will mask the clear parts. I think I lost the files but at one point actually found pictures of the original room they were doing the premium finish details in. Literally all of it is done by hand. This is why when you go back through the thread and look at some of the painted features of the buildings inside of the legs you will find the glow paint is by no means perfectly applied. It’s because it was free handed and the glow paint is very thick and you cannot dilute it and it still work properly. In many areas I found that the best application method was literally dipping a toothpick in the paint and dropping dots of the paint where I needed it. And then gently taking the toothpick and dragging it out to cover the larger areas that weren’t just supposed to be beads. The only thing I’m not 100% certain on is whether or not they did some sort of topcoat very lightly to act as a primer for the glow paint. I only say that because I’ve noticed that areas like the tips of the guns were easy to chip the paint off . For now I have been doing mine without any sort of topcoat to use as a primer. I will topcoat lightly afterwards and if I find protruding areas like the gun tips are still easy to knock the paint off, I will topcoat to prime before finishing over with the topcoat in those specific areas. I believe anymoon Is where I found most of my great reference photos to see the detailing up close on the premium finish version so I could copy details. and advantage you have with the assembly kit is that you could much more easily tackle areas like the buildings. But ask around here and look around. I know there are some examples of extremely detailed work on the cities. I think I’ve seen at least one case where someone individually painted each building and made their own custom backdrop to go behind them. Meanwhile Arcadia came with a background sticker that isn’t actually able to fit unless you could break the ship down. And they did not make this thing to be able to come apart without possibly breaking something on the Arcadia. Also with this I am posting a picture of one of the more detailed interiors I came across on my hunt that someone had made. http://anymoon.com/blog/?p=4389

http://www.glow-on.com/ bubblegum red and yellow glow paint are the match. Yellow is actually more of a green tone. And bubblegum red is more pinkish orange.

I bought the Arcadia and added the proper glow paint. Visually the paint I found is an exact match to the paint on the premium. http://www.glow-on.com/

Thank goodness that’s just yen. For instance 55,000 JPY is only about $478 USD.

The Glow-on paint is water based and does not need thinner. It is a bit gritty because of the phosphoresce. Dip the tip of a toothpick and gently drag the paint where you want it. Keep a blacklight handy to check for mistakes before they dry. It isn’t easy and is very tedious. But doable. I will apply matte after I’m done with lining and paint to help protect my work. But only a light dusting of spray for me. And absolutely no touching for a day at least after. Also I will mask the clear plastic windows and bridge as the premium just blanket frosted everything with matte and I don’t like it on the windows. Look for the glow-on website. Bubblegum red and yellow are the two colors you will need to match.

Printing from my iPhone and it did not seem to give me an option. I’ll see if there’s anything I can tweak.Printing from my iPhone and it did not seem to give me an option. I’ll see if there’s anything I can tweak.

Comes out a bit massive. Anyone know what I’m doing wrong?

Let me know if you find a link to that decal. No rush. I’m having trouble.

Thanks Slave VI!

Decal I fits. It’s just supposed to be behind the buildings. I just slid mine on without taking off the backing.

Disappointed that my labels not as cool. But trimmed it and put the thin part in at an angle first and Fisht down in and then worked it over the top of the buildings. Definitely doesn’t look so plain.

Take a look at the sticker I have. This came with the standard Arcadia. Is yours print it from somewhere online? Or did they just out right change what kind of label to use? Because yours looks a heck a lot better.

So did you literally just slide it back behind and get it to lay right?So did you literally just slide it back behind and get it to lay right?

Yes. The paint dries it’s kind of a hard layer or bead where it is placed. And then it appears they apply the topcoat to help protect the painted additions. But if it ever does snap these are definitely matches for the color. http://www.glow-on.com/

Does anyone happen to know if there is a safe way to disassemble the leg with the city? I am of the opinion that the label made for the city background will properly fit but may have been designed without keeping in mind that the buyer would not have good access to disassembling the city. I do believe there is enough space and the sticker is formed to apply behind the city structures. And they definitely seem to of be a piece that is applied over that flat section. I took what screws off that I could today but it seems that I might have to go for screws that are hidden under pieces that are snapped over the screws before they are shipped out. Curious if anyone has done this. I do not want to take too many risks and would be more happy leaving the city alone if I’m too likely to do nothing but cause damage.

I got the standard version and I’m slowly updating it to match the premium as closely as possible. I’ve got it narrowed down that the most likely candidate for the paint they used is either exactly or very similar to glow – on gun sight paint and craft paint. Specifically bubblegum red and yellow which look more like an orange-ish pink and greenish yellow. They also have the same texture.

So here’s the thing, I got a hold of a standard release Arcadia SDF-1. The current cost of acquiring a premium is double to triple the standard finish if you can find one. Close-up pictures others had provided online of the premium finish gave me the necessary clues to find matches in glow in the dark paint. Glow-in-the-dark paint finishes that work well are not very diverse. Enough close-up review pictures and coming across a highly phosphorescent paint under the name glow-on let me to an exact color match. Scorched earth toys had wonderful review shots of the premium finish. Notice the grainy texture that others including those on this forum have on their official premium finished figures. Unfortunately the very things that make the paint so phosphorescent make it very grainy in texture. The paint I am using for the glow in the dark is it glow-on brand “bubblegum red” which dries to more of an orange reddish pinkish color and “yellow” which clothes bright greenish and dries a kind of greenish yellow color. Some of the photos show my online matching of the paint before I ordered it. Close up details of the official premium version are from scorched earth reviews. I’m working on much finer applied panel lining as the official was mass produced by hand application of the panel lining and fine detail paints. I had just discovered this particular form Macross world today. And since I have not officially handled the real premium I had one of my suspicions confirmed. Scorched earth does make the complaint that they decided to frost the windows of the bridge. And someone on the forum had made the case that it actually has a matte topcoat. And this is why the bridge is frosted over. I will be masking my bridge and any other clear parts present. But the topcoat finish likely help to secure the glow-on which does attach and dry very hard but due to it’s grainy bead like nature can be scratched off easy (As I discovered on the shoulder cannons after days of drying not being careful and transformation scraped the dots of paint off the tips and I had to reapply. Also if you own a premium finish but have scratch the glow-in-the-dark paint this should be valuable information to allow you to repair the paint yourself. Glow-on comes in very small vials. But so far I found I’ve added most of the glow in the dark details and still have the majority left by purchasing the medium size which is still a very tiny amount. But for what you have to use it goes along way. It is actually manufactured and mainly advertised as a sight paint for guns