Halfstep

Is that Misa and Hikaru in the cockpit for gerwalk and Minmay and Hikaru in fighter?

Is there an easy way to get to actual shoulder joints? Specifically the ball joint connected to the white part that rotates out and has the back circles painted on. Looks like it's in two halves held together with a screw and maybe a pin. I tried to open this part up but it would not give at all and i did not want to break it. Tightening the screw did nothing. My right arm is freely moving with no friction at all and it's a HUGE bummer. Is there supposed to be ball joint cap in there cause if so mine feels like nothing is in there at all. I got a little KiKis in there and it helped some what but wanted to peak inside to see why it's loose or maybe wrap the ball with clear tape or something cause it's quite bad. Everything else is quite perfect on mine except this.

I definitely think some kind of thin washer between the arms is needed especially if you mount chogokin with super parts. If you position the arms as needed and torque well before mounting I don't think the arms are going to move. However trying to make any adjustments while items are mounted you will loosen the bolts just enough where arms will give and you can have a toy fall off. It's happen to me a few times trying to position things while they are mounted. I caught the valks, but to me it's not worth it with heavy items. Remove the valks position then remount. Could take a bit but safer in thelong run until I can find a "in-between" solution that works. That said the Archi stands are wonderful.

I am going to try shaving away at that tab until it fits.

I thought I was going nuts with my WWM VF-25 and the gun pod not securing to one of the arms. Is there a solution for that? I can't tell if it's the tab or the slot or cut out for the handle causing this issue. I almost want to shave the tab in the offending arm completely out so it does not cause a headache with Fighter mode. It offsets the arms and leg because of this issue when the gun pod is in play.

Nothing fancy but I like how it turned out

Yeah I just checked the site but maybe it's worth contacting Eugene to see if that part is in the works for separate purchase. Without it or some custom replacement you won't be able to get two Valks side by side and you can't bank them.

I think you can still achieve the yeti double stack with Archi "max" set up. Here is a pic of my max stand. Mind you there are extra small braces in my pic that can be removed to condense the set up for a detolf. Kim also announced this morning you can buy extra parts so if you buy a single stand it can be converted to a "max" stand.

And this indeed is the secret sauce. I had it this way and it felt right. But then every shot I saw of others it was flat as you mentioned so I thought I was over extending something that would lead to breakage This and a little Kiki's and I am happy with this thing. I want armored parts for it.

Got a new custom emblem for my VF-25 40th Anniversary edition. Glows in the dark.

See I had done this and it felt locked in but thought this was wrong. maybe I will do this again. I knew exactly what you mean and thought it felt solid.

I guess my RNG was not so lucky with this one as my feet joints are loose as hell. I spent so much time worried about hips I never considered feet being an issue. The forward and back tilt joint is very loose. The heel and toe tilts are also very loose. Trying to stand it up in gerwalk or battroid is a effort of frustration with it tilting forward or back. Hips are ok. I like tight hips...would not say these are tight, but not as bad as these feet. I have used Kikis on hips and multiple places on the feet which after 24 hours sees much better. I have had this bottle of Kikis for over a year. First time I have used this stuff and I have to say its pretty damn awesome. I do have a question. This is my first VF-25, is there a trick to the chest shroud that comes over the fuselage in battroid? I am failing to see/feel a position where it locks into solid position. Feels like it just floats up there and can easily move about and out of position. This thing is beautiful to look at but seems like just a let down as a "toy". Its going on display to never touch again as it seems so finicky. Before Kikis I was really regretting this thing. Now I am just sorta ok with it as I am not sure how Kikis hold up over time or if this stuff makes plastic weak after a while.

How are the hip joints? Loosey goosey?

No problem. In my head I think it would be cool for those who are collecting the DX DYRL line to have color coded Skull and Crossbones to go with them. I only have the Hikaru which in my picture I shared is using a Spacey kite. But I would love it to be a red and white skull and bones instead and move the kite over to my SDF Max. It would be cool to see a set of birds with corresponding bones for their stands I think. Been talking to Gary about this idea.

I am forum stupid. The guy will respond to FB messenger DMs. Not sure how to share that out here on the forum. Here is a sample of other plaques he has right now. He seems willing to work on requests as well as I did ask about a skull and cross bones plaque. He originally did not have the Spacey kite which was a request from me and another in the group. I don't want to go against forum guidelines by derailing the thread. I did suggest he post about this here on the forums, I know there is a buy/sell/trade section here I told him to find...but I can't seem to find that section myself. If somebody can share me a link to that I can recommend he post this there.

Finally my DX stands are not dull and drab. Guy in a Macross Facebook group had created some really cool 3D printed plaques with a connection system to the base. I think I will buy some more.

I just recieved email from BBTS that the ETA is in and as soon as payment is processed it will ship.

I would like to ask those that received the SSP parts, does the gun pod sit on the ground in fighter mode with landing gear out? It looks to me from pics that it has zero clearance.

Anybody else have a very loose trigger TV hand on their VF-1A?. Mine is perfect except either the ball joint is kinda small or the wrist plug is too big. Have not swapped all hands to see if it's an issue across the board yet.

So the 1S has ejector tampo's? Also, I had the same issue with my 1J where the panel on the missle connector separated when I tried to remove them. Did not pull the panel off completely but it really irked me when it happened. It's like the plastic just tore on the panel lines. Not like I was pulling hard either.

I dont have a good picture of this. Where you see the hard points that's the panel. Maybe it's not a seperate piece. Maybe the panel line is so deep that when I tried tugging on the reactive missle cluster which was attached to the hard point on the right side in pic that side of the panel lifted away from the wing a bit past the hard point itself. So like a perfect outline of the panel . The rear side did not do this. You can not see the stress mark in pic as it did not fold enough to make the plastic go white but when looking at it you could tell it there is a mark there. Happened on both wings. And seriously, I was not pulling that hard but the connections were just very tight.

I may be unfortunate here. I just received my missle set. After swapping things around I noticed the connections to the micro missle box and the cluster reactive missles were extremely tight to the hard points on both wings. Because the pylons are so stubby and the missles are so bulky, it was hard to get fingers in there well and pulling to free them (not hard mind you) it actually lifted the panel of plastic on side closest to the outer wing that the hard points are a part of. I had no idea that this was a panel of plastic and thought the wing was just a solid part with panel lines. It put a slight stress mark on the panels themselves where they slightly lifted. Be careful I guess is what I am saying here. I have tried to glue the panels back flush with the wings but that kinda sucked.

So will the fast packs have internal details? I wonder if that's how you swap out the skull emblems.