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Everything posted by Pulltoeject

  1. Bend the tip back (in battroid mode), and apply a hairdryer to it....do this very slowly, it will get rid of the white stress marks.
  2. Try IPMS/USA The international plastic modelers society. They have a bunch of forums and You can try asking there if someone in Your area is willing to do what You are looking for.
  3. Is there any possibility that this mold gets made in non-canon colors, green, purple, yellow... I know most people here prefer anime accurate , but if valkyrie factory offered having your vf-1 made a la nike id would be awesome. !
  4. Like to bet on it no, but the valks that don't pass Qc to be sold as genuine arcadia products be thrown out seems ulikely to me.....maybe they make profit just selling them as KO.
  5. That beast head somewhat resembles the decepticon logo outline lol
  6. If they ever get their hands on the VF-4 mold, they should start pumping out Max and Milia, Just my 2 cents
  7. I personally think they are both one and the same. Those that pass QC are sold as legit, with their respective boxes , stickers and manuals....whereas the lower QC are passed off as KO and sold as such at a lower price point. Anyhow, I really don't care, as long as they look good, I dont transform any of mine, just leave them in fighter mode.
  8. Is there any way to contact valkyrie factory and ask them to milk the VF-1 mold ? Cavaliers, low-viz Roy, Angel birds, Alaska............etc...... Drool.......dammit
  9. That's exactly what stops me from considering getting one. I bought the CF a few years ago and sold it a month later, due to my eyes, the huge gaps that were all over it. The design is awesome, being based off the sukhoi 27 one of my favorite planes, but the arcadia one having the same gaps? I mean come on arcadia, I think they could habe done better than that, especially at the current price.........
  10. Hey Bolt! Would need it for a 1/60 v2 yamato/arcadia Thanks
  11. Hey people, I have a project where I want to make a VF-1S Kakizake, and I would need a green heatshield ( I know it would be easier to buy a Kaki but it is a bit difficult finding one....) Thanks for Your time !!
  12. Don't be so hard on Yourself. You can always sell it to someone here on the forums at msrp+shipping or go psychoscalper and sell it on ebay, etc.......
  14. Absolutely, but I would prefer it in 1/60 scale. It'd be awesome if hasegawa teamed up up with arcadia to launch special edition scemes, but I'm afraid the prices would skyrocket....sigh
  15. Hmmmmmm ok.....thanks !! I wanted to use it as a base to do the hasegawa YF-19 EXPO valk paint scheme
  16. Hi Jenius !! I'm interested in the Yamato 1/60 25th anniversary YF-19 for a custom but was wondering if it is solid in fighter mode like the 1/60 Blazer valks....I only display in fighter mode, and don't want to deal with a floppy mess. Anyways, thanks for Your input !!
  17. This scheme is totally doable on the yamato 25th anniv. 19 valk.
  18. Oh wow, splinter camo would fit it nicely !!
  19. I work as a flight attendant for Latam and have flights to Jfk, Mia and Lax. If You are willing, You could ship it to my hotel in one of those cities, and I will gladly give it a go. I know this might seem risky to You Shizuka, but I assure you I will make Max's old ride even Napoleon proud.
  20. Hmmmm....looks like the messy parts were not finished, say, not cleaned up to leave the clean panel line look. Try the qtip thingie and wipe away the excess paint first along those parts and see if you like the end result, the over all panel lining does not look bad. If not satisfied, go full mister clean and strip it all off. As for the yellowing, I would go the sandpaper route. The scratches on the canopy might be buffed out with an old tshirt and WHITE colgate. Moisten the tshirt with some water, dab a little paste on it and rub in tiny circular motions. Try doing that now, it'll take you about 15 min. Ps, be careful with the black canopy frame !
  21. Hey Shizuka, buy a bottle of tamiya thinner, dip a q-tip in and squeeze the excess off with a paper towel, You want a barely moist tip, not fully saturated. With a little elbow grease, You want to rub into the offending panel lines till they are gone. If a tampoed section is panel lined, that is a bit more difficult without knowing what was used to panel line in the first place. For the de-yellowing.... chemical methods are pita if You dont know what You are doing. I would recommend buying some extremely fine grit hobby sandpaper, the kind You wet first, and basically buff the yellow off the plastic being careful not to take off any paint/tampo on the valk. This does not scratch or marr the surface. Take Your time and go SLOWLY. Youtube has lots of vids on how to use the sandpaper, and the thinner and sandpaper will probably set You back perhaps 15 dollars. I hope this helps, and try to post pics of the patient!
  22. Shizuka, try asking on a plastic model kit building forum. You can ask there if there are any builders in Your area, and ask for a quote. If You want to save money, try de yellowing it first and removing the panel lines if Your'e up to it, it's not that hard. Good luck !
  23. Really like the real world fighter look rather than the squeamish colors that are usually used on valks. Ps, anyone know if this kit can be 3d scanned and printed in 1/60? And if so, would anybody be able to do this for a fee ? Thanks !
  24. I had a 51 CF, sold it about a month later after buying it. What bugged the hell out of me was the extremely crappy hinge system that attaches the wings to the fuselage. Also, the tail planes would swivel allover the place. I see the exact same hinges on this one. Even if it was made with another plastic, that wouldn't fix the floppiness imo
  25. Anyway to contact them and ask if they can squeeze out the lowviz Roy as well ?
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