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pengbuzz

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Posts posted by pengbuzz

  1. Thanks guys! I really appreciate the input and complements. :)

    A little bit of an update here: I FINALLY gave Skull-1 a "hand" (ba-dum-dum-tish!).

    Macross%20art%20progress%2017_zpsfazfimz

    While the hand isn't perfect (it needs a LOT of work!), it's a start and I should be able to start on the other hand soon. I also got the handle to the gunpod started, and I wrestled with the intake covers; they still need some work, but they're a LOT better than before. In addition, I tweaked the head and head lasers a bit, and did some more work on the visor (it was bugging me).

    And looking at this: I need to fix the "U.N. SPACY" on the gunpod: it doesn't look right to me. I'll probably go in with photoshop and use the transform tool to fix it. No big deal, but it's been bothering me for a while now.

    Hoping to get to the Regult soon, and work some of the buildings a bit more. Stay tuned...

  2. Sorry about the delay folks; had some family issues to take care of (money's short, as usual).

    In any event, here's the latest progress:

    Macross%20art%20progress%2016_zpsgfi7fdv

    Still a WIP; lots of stuff to take care of. None of it meets my criteria yet, but it's coming along.

    Stay tuned...

  3. Less smoke from the barrel, propellant burns fairly clean, and make it a lazy curl... Most of the smoke off a hot weapon is gun oil burning off. A heat haze off the barrel jacket perhaps but definitely less smoke. The powder in a cartridge is call "Smokeless" Powder.

    600px-Sound_12_Kar_(1).jpg

    143468863.jpg?v=1&c=IWSAsset&k=2&d=2DF30

    smoking-gun-23774351.jpg

    Definitely, NZEOD; after posting my WIP last night, I noted that and proceeded immediately to kill down the smoke:

    Macross%20art%20progress%2013_zpsfz074as

    (Kinda looked like a cigar more than a gunpod!)

    Thanks for picking it up though; before posting this, I did go in and make a bit of a "lazy curl" as you mentioned. I really appreciate the advice on the smoke.

  4. Nice. Maybe add some smoke effects from the gun and in the bullet holes?

    Thanks! I plan on adding some smoke, as well as a firefight behind Skull one here. Right now, trying to get the whole scene to look a bit better; this is still very rough by my standards.

    Current progress:

    Macross%20art%20progress%207_zpsag3eopb5

    Stay tuned...

  5. Okay, the idea works out great, but I need something better than what I'm currently using for this project. I'm considering getting JB weld when I get some money, as a bad tube of plastic welder has caused me to go through half of it (air in the tube) with no results (had to remove work I did due to mis-cured welder.

    Stay tuned folks.

  6. WOW!! haven't seen a MS Natural keyboard in ages! Loved mine until it broke..

    And your Regult build is looking good so far too! ;)

    Thanks! :) Yeah, the Regult will be used for some upcoming photo shoots (If I can get my 1/72 VF-1S to cooperate: I have to rebuild the back AGAIN. :( )

    As for the keyboard: I prefer the MS Natural, since it helps with my Carpal Tunnel in my right wrist.

  7. So how coould i remove tamiya clear enamel from styrene if i can t use enamel thinner?

    I would just polish it without removing the clear enamel. You see, clear materials work by letting light pass through them; when the clear enamel attacked the canopy you have, it caused a rough texture on the microscopic level that catches light rather than lets it pass through.

    To explain further: anything with a "flat" (non-reflective) surface looks at the microscopic level like sandpaper. Smooth surfaces at that level are mostly smooth and flat. The "clear" you used partially crazed the plastic at that level, and more thinner will do the same (paint contains an amount of thinner, that's how it is dissolved and dries when applied).

    So what does all this mean for you then? That rather than chemically trying to remove it, just polish the canopy until you get past the clear enamel layer and start to optically smooth the clear plastic. I know 90 percent rubbing alcohol can remove Krylon in enough applications, but I'm not sure about Tamiya (not to mention you tried alcohol once and it fogged the canopy, if memory serves).You're probably best off sanding it with ultra-fine sandpaper and polishing it from there (if you want to preserve the current canopy).

  8. UPDATE:

    Well, a little bit of a setback: the wing pivots were beginning to crack, so I decided to replace them. but as I tried to put new pegs in to the back to hold them, other stuff kept coming apart. Not to mention, the pegs just would not stay, no matter what I did; they kept letting go and popping out. So, rather than continue wrestling with the mess that it was becoming, I tore the back panel/ rear fuselage down to the basics:

    2bb2e812-5b8d-4ba6-a0c6-10a728ffc447_zps

    The pivots from the Bandai 1/72 have been integrated into the original wings, and the pivot pegs will be glued to the rear plate. The holes made by my previous attempts will be filled in with plastic welder, while the backpack hinge joint will be revised as well as the Battroid retainer system (the peg that keeps it from becoming a floppy mess). I'm also toying with lengthening the pack plate slightly, which would also mean a corresponding lengthening of the lower leg/ engine nacelles.

    But in the long run, this should last much longer than the original pegs would have (which would have been a few weeks at best.

    Stay tuned everyone... either this will turn out to be an epic model, or an epic mess!

    We'll see on that one as we go.

  9. Hey, no worries Rob. We all go through rough patches. Good to see folks though return to the boards; admittedly, I myself used to be on here a long time ago, but I left. I had some changing of my own to do, and several years helped with that. :)

    ValkyrieExchange: yep, I miss that site too...

  10. Thanks for the suggetsion, I already had a problem with the clear canopy joint that crack over time in the yamato's... i did realize it was fault of the clear gloss paint... i wonder what kind of plastic is generally used on clear plastic parts and why is so sensible to some materials... anyway as i put decals on it or paint i need to protect it with clear spray paint, my intention was as i said to protect all clear parts and to spray only the small black painted part of the canopy but that bloody adesive masking tape left some glue on it. Th eproblem is that it was the internal and concave surface of the canopy were sanding with abrasive paper is extremely difficult...

    Also i wonder if there is a issue with masking tape that sometimes ruins the paint were it s attached.... maybe it expires after some time from the purchase??

    P.S. I ve been able to find in hardware store just the 1000P abrasive paper, no way they have finer one.. 12000??? Never known it existed...

    Hobby shops carry them. And I think I may have put one too many zeroes in lol

    THe plastic used in canopies for models is styrene, but it has no color elements in it. That makes them more fragile and apt to crack.

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