kanata67

Kanata, she too looks trashy.

hally, the one in my pic, or both

they never should have killed of joker in the first movie... just what the heck were they thinking? As for the second and third movies...

I personally would like to see "the dark knight returns" made into a flick with sean connery playing an old wayne, but thats just me.

As for the hally thing... mindless comercialism at it greatest. J lo would have had more appeal and made more sense demographically speaking. Now here is something to purr about...

I picked up two of the sd gundam kits at a local video game store for $6 apiece, and later saw the exact same kit repackaged to be american friendly at TRU for $18! I wouldn't spend that much, but at $6 I consider the money well spent. Took a couple hours to assemble and they reminded me of my SD lintseeker kit. They had polycaps, good articulation, and weapons that fired after assembly.

the base was a yammie 19 with fast packs?

Wow, seems like most people here had jetfire as their first valks. I'm guessing if jetfire were ever to be reissued, everybody would get one? I know I would. I'd probably just buy two.     

Not me, I couldn't care less about Jetfire. For me, he was always a Valkyrie copy and I was only briefly interested in getting a Jetfire on eBay as a cheap, well-made transforming Valkyrie. Then I got a Bandai reissue.

I don't remember whether I saw any Transformers and Gobots before I ever saw Robotech, but they seemed childish and never appealed to me. (I was 19 years old in 1985. Talking transforming trucks didn't do anything for me, but teenage angst and global destruction were both pretty relevant...)

first... bobe- I know I would buy a few. As always it would depend on the price. Heck, I'm at 8 now and with a few more parts might make my cut-off of ten soon... but a convinient stack of ten re-issue jetfires would be an entirely different cutoff

As for ewilen and all the others, who don't appreciate the moment of glory some children had when they realized the coolest stupid talking robot they had was actually a valk, can feel free to send them to me where I will hold them and pet them and squeeze them and call them george

I had jetfire as a kid, as well as some mocross toys but as I lived in the sticks I never even had the chance to see, much less get, even a JM! I had a invid shock, hover tank, and tactical pod back then. I never even got to see an officers pod [say marauder boys and girls] in stock anywhere. The only "valk" I knew was jetfire besides two really cool ones I saw once in a store in boston there wasn't a chance my parents would spring for at $80 a pop. I found out later they were the the ostrich and seeker.

About a year ago I found macross world and renewed my love with it tracking down the missing armor for a jetfire a friend in hard times pawned me to replace the one lost in my childhood. I started buying macross again at what seems the best time as it was right when the re-issues came out. I managed to get a few additional jetfires for cheap with armor, which to me were super valks anyway, and eventually I got some re-issues which were transformed once and shelved. My first non 1f were the bandai 17 and 19 which I promptly sold and bought more 1f's. Then I got a 19a in a trade and I guess that is my first true valk as it is a pure image of non jetfire jaded beauty that has no other mental connentations other than itself. Truely a work of art. The 21 was nice as well -thanks david.

Now I have more macross stuff and robotech crap than anyone in their right mind could justify, besides perhaps graham . Lets just say that my obsessive personality has taken it above and beyond the bounds of good taste. Look for some interesting posts in the future. Here's a quick question for you all... where do you conveniently store an arnmy? Anwer will appear in army topic when I resize the damn pic

It is nice to find out there are people older than me here though . Growing up when disco was cool was a lonely existance for anyone with a brain

and for valkyrie312 who inquired about getting a house and a wife... good luck with that .I'd recommend getting the house first and putting it in your name, but thats just me. At the very least I'd recommend living together in some capacity before marriage. They say that over 50% of the people who live together before marriage don't get married, but they always forget to point out that they don't get divorced either . I was engaged for 5 years to my now wife, and we still have issues. At least we have been through enough crap to know that we are both willing to work towards improvement.

Oh yeah... never trust something that bleeds for 5 days and doesn't die

hey kid... There is only one sad ass hobby store in town that caters to warhammer mini's. I took me two months to educate them on what a pin vice is before I could get one, so without an actual product name I'm SOL.

jesse... Just what I need... a laser . Actually, I have a bunch of lasers around as I needed to get a bunch back when I made individual lasers that attach to the fingers of my nintendo power glove and run off a single power supply so I can better mess with the minds of hippies at raves. Unfortunately the chance of going to a real rave around here is non-existant so another wonderfull creation gathers dust in my closet.

Kaolian... I have many years of various construction/demolition experience. I considered using a mini chipping hammer in the "hammer and felt" technique to losen it up, but due to the elasticity of the plastic it doesn't help. Works wonders on die cast stuff though. Freezing it seems like a damn good idea. Do I assume correctly that the plastic will only be brittle while still cold and will go back to normal tensile strength when returned to room temp? I have noticed that warming it in a cup of hot water helps a little [using hot water to rinse off multiple applications of goo-gone], do you think putting it in the freezer for a day and then immediately putting it in hot water would be of greater benifit?

judging by the time you have into it (or will), itll be the most expensive part of your collection. AGH man I said in an earlier post to test a part of it (acetone is nail polish remover). If that doesnt dissolveit, nothing will that wont do damage to the plastic. I would try a light sanding to get the bulky parts off being careful not to sand the parts, when its thin enough, it MIGHT be able to be flaked off. One thing you might try is the glue manufacturer to see what dissolves thier product and what type of material your working with (ABS,PVC,ect,,,,,)

If I had a clue what glue(s) were used I might be worth a shot. The glue on the milla was amberish and the glue on the max [my current exacto/patience project] is of a clear variety. I can't tell about the skull yet as it had less gaps than the max so got put off. I won't know about the others till tomorrow when they arrive [hypothetically as I don't like to jinx things ]The glue was also applied 15+ years ago so I don't even know if it's currently availible or what it might be.

At least I know wheat the parts I'm sanding should be like after getting the first one apart.

The ice pick's name is mr floppy ears and is BENNETT's bestest friend...

most informed bootleg description I've ever seen... http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...&category=36568

Selling a windows folder... now thats ingenious. The relisted one sold no less http://cgi6.ebay.co.uk/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dl...item=3626101535

maybe I should try selling desktop wallpaper a $1 a pop

improved joons??? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...&category=16467

macoss the board game???? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...&category=16467

Not macross related, but I think this qualifies.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...&category=47127

Now that is too funny. I not sure how many have seen Mad TV. He would be a prime canidate for Lowered Expectations.

props to hurin for a sale well done. What was the starting bid?

Looks like I missed my two week window of opportunity to sell some stuff.

Ladic... just what were you searching for when you came across that???!?!?!? It is way to funny. Already relisted AND no longer availible... wonder why??? Still... what were you looking for Ladic?

well... hypotetically the first one is done. A red milla back/chest plate was successfully seperated after many applications of "goo-gone" and repeated scribing with an exacto blade. Based on how much I make an hour and how many hours it took, I lost mad money on the deal . Detailed walk through of process will eventually make it to my site alone with all my other projects. I'm good about taking pics as I go but bad about getting around to resizing them so they are web friendly.

Naturally, being the hippie I am...

After successfully seperating the pices I decided to dip them in acetone based nail polish remover to speed up cleaning the remaining glue. Didn't make a damn difference with the glue but did turn all the exposed areas a nice shade of pink! DO NOT, under any circumstances, use acetone on a JM! I rinsed the part off quickly and was able to repair the damage I caused with repeated washes of red ink, but if I had let the parts stay a moment longer before rinsing them I doub't I would have been able to negate the damage. As is, it added about 5 hours of painting and buffing to the already "not worth my time" project. Hypothetically of course

I still could use any suggestions for how to speed up the proccess of glue removal without damaging the plastic... anyone?

Several?!

one of my favorite pictures I've saved off this site...

I didn't add the words but I do appreciate the pictures title

It also serves as justification for some of my multiples

I was thinking of posting it in the new collections thread, but graham can cross link it if desired.

you may have to either peel back or slice hrough the black sticker tat wraps around the nose of the valk in front of the cockpit. Took me a while to realize that was my problem on my first jetfire dis-assemble. If that doesn't do it off the bat [that sticker is surprisingly strong] try pushing a small screw drever into the hole below he head pivot plate and pushing them apart from that point. I do know that the re-issue tail assemblies are either a whole lot tighter than the old school ones so they almost appear glued. Perhaps the assembly line is more streamlined now-a-days and they are assembled before he plastic is completely cooled... not sure. Get back to me if you still have probs.

2nd edition... the one with the blue vfx paint scheme that I love???

I traded a higlander sword with a dinged scabbard for my first one. I got my second [now sold to a friend] MIB with a MIB 21 for $130. [my friend broke the canopy removing it from box ]. It's my favorite paint sceme valk and one of the nicest toys I've ever played with, but I couldn't justify paying over $100 for one

Hello,

I have the distinct honor of nominating someone who is actually not on the list yet, but definitely should be.

Amped

I purchased a perfect 1/48 Club M Ultimate Strike Valkyrie from him recently. Excellent communication, fast shipping and the item arrived well packaged and in the condition he described.

I also had a great transaction with, "JsARCLIGHT," but since he is already on the list all I can do is emphasize what a good seller he his.

Sincerely,

Christopher B)

it's not so much what a good seller JsARCLIGHT is, and he is, as the fact that anything he ships could be in a UPS truck that drives over a cliff, lands on a cow, and then explodes... without your package being damaged in the slightest!!! I swear he must have an in with the company that makes bubble wrap

once again my love goes to monkey and mr beers, as always. Also opus, DARTHTODD, Diverdown, tom64ss, hurin, Weaseldancer, GreenGuy42, phatslappy, Chowser, and jesse

as well as nemesis120, Postman Pat, and gian for being the cool people they are.

I also look foward to dealing with Dax415, glane21, and ewilen.

on a side note... I thought my responce to someone telling me that I had an immaculate reputation "My reputation is immaculate?!?! I know I'm honest, but I was sure everyone here had me tagged for an absent minded hippie LOL." getting a responce of "Heh, heh, a hippie? Ok how about a hippie with an immaculate reputation? LOL Seriously, a good reputation isn't that easy over the net" was pretty funny, but thats just me . Lord knows poor chowser has been waiting on his free go-bots for a while now

Something's wrong here. Either this seller is nuts, or I got incredibly lucky.

At least the seller is coming down on the price.

I'd say both ewilen.

http://cgi.ebay.it/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewIt...4&category=9983 .... sooooo not a taka . I have two of them and the quality leaves more than a little to be desired

"Before you get too worked up, only the CLOTHES are for sale! "... Good thing you said something else I might have bid

You want really absurd??? Hurin just got $167.50 for a loose super O' without accessories/armor!!!!! I paid around a whopping $30 for my unbroken but tail-less super O' that was sporting a replacement tail assembly within ten minutes of being unpacked. Lord knows I like seeing fellow members make money, but I just don't see how this is worth more than the strike with most armor he was selling at the same time?!?!

if you are just re-painting the toy... Besides saying use primer...

From what I gather yammies are more prone to paint chipping than the MPC, though I have never removed my MPC from box as I fear them pulling a spawn toy desintergration when exposed to air. I do know that due to the electronics the MPC is more of a pain to diss-assemble, if you plan on diss-assembling it prior to painting.

Painting a custom valk isn't that big of a project, though many start out with a bootleg or a junker first time. Kidkorrupt's web site has some great examples including a rooster valk that is just to funny. As long as you prime and seal when done, it should be smooth sailing. As for what you will need... I'm thinking

paint brushes

paint

spray primer [i recommend citadel]

spray matte sealer [again I recommend citadel]

a small phillips screw driver so you can disassemble before priming any areas that would be hard to paint otherwise, like the insides of a 1/55 legs that you can see if you squint into the hole behind the lowered landing gear for instance

Patientce.

good luck and post progress pics.

Pine Sol! I got an Elintseeker that someone painted red. I dissasembled it and let it soak for a few hours in Pine Sol and 99.9% of the red came off with just a little scrubbing with a toothbrush. Works on plastic and diecast, and did little damage to stickers. Make sure you wear gloves as the Pine Sol will do a number on your hands.

pine sol won't do that much to your hands, then again I work with chlorine and muriatic and sulfuric acid on a daily basis so my perspective may be skewed. You can also try "goo-gone" and a paper towel and repeated applications as it won't hurt plastic.

this does remind me though... sbarrett4.... when r u gonna sell me that ve-1 as my beer's seeker armor would surely like it. I can make it worth your while

On the one hand...

As children's toys, those joke machines would be GONE now if they hadn't been glued. I broke one 3 times before we chunked it. Glued it back twice, then pitched it.

Specifically, the bars connecting the front and back fuselage were prone to failure. At least on my Max.

On the other hand...

What's the point of a non-transformable VF? I had a crisis when my dad was saying "We can fix it, but it won't be able to transform if we do. Whatever mode we fix it in it's stuck." It was like "But it's a TRANSFORMER! Can't you fix it RIGHT?"

...

Transformer, of course, being a generic term for any robot that changes, including GoBots, Robotech, and Voltron.

Anyways, that was repair #2. I picked "robot".

Thankfully the little shoulder bars are intact and unbroken. They were removed along with the cockpit, legs, and tail section in an attempt to get to the one glued area. It looks like someone used glue along the top part of the chest plate and then pressed the part against the back plate in fighter mode. I've been using an exacto and repeated goo-gone sprays and seem to be making progress on the first one. I have a pin vice, but do not have a fret saw [the mini saw blade for exacto knives] as I can't find them anywhere and normally use a plubers pvc saw which is way to big for a job like this [it looks like a tiny hack saw]

Hypotetically I could post pics

I probably should check and see if the armor is glued in place as well... though I know that the boosters aren't glued.

I hate having two topics on the first page... but this is decidedly of a different nature than my army question. I am working on my repair web site and have done a fair bit on my own, but here is a situation I figured I better ask about before I tackle.

Here is the hypothetical situation...

Lets say an old guy spoiled the heck out of his kids in the 80's. Lets say the same guy was concerned about child safty so glued certain parts that may be damaged, or damage the children. Lets say that one of those safety mods was gluing the back plate and chest plate of a matchbox JM so that the toy is pretty but cannont transform.

Now lets say it is today, and by the the benifits of fate a hippie ended up with one of the JM's [hypothetically of course ] and is trying to make them fully transformable again. I have been scoring the glue, which looks similar to amber in it's dried 15+ year old state and is not they type of glue that melts plastic together, and have made slight progress in the seams but the parts "feel" no closer to seperation. I have been spraying "goo gone" on the affected area, having diss-assembled the JM to better work on the one area glued... hypothetically of course. There appear to be some parts besides the front seam that are affected, but as I have never had a functional JM I don't know what the parts look like in robot mode.

Does anybody know of a way to weaken/remove glue without damaging the plastic? I have already written off the decals as a loss as they seem to have been applied by a drunken deranged midget, again hypothetically, so soaking it in something is an option. Also, if anybody can provide transformation instructions on a JM so I know what should move and don't do anything stupid, it would be appreciated.

Can anyone give input on a way to do this simply to 8 JM's at once, again hypothetically?

The money thing can't but play a huge part. I was thinking maybe the 1/144 die-cast figures could be a good basis as they aren't that expensive, but destroids are pretty much all there is cheap. Would it look a little off having one 1/144 nousjaduel ger power armor surrounded by 50 destroids and one doyusha vf? . Maybe the pencil sharpeners...

citadel spray matte sealer is typically sold at any tabletop gaming store. The same stores that sell warhammer/D&D/pewter miniatures and paints. As for touch up... That is best answered by another as I normally remove all flaking paint with a brush and start from scratch with primer. I know my old show 79 camaro had artic white paint and one or two rust spots were cured through prep work, painting a few layers of the closest citadel paint [perhaps not the best but what I had and what I know] and sprayed with sealer and I never had a problem there-after.

"Citadel" spray matte sealer would probably work. I can't say for sure but it works on my car

Exosquad re-released a bunch of the old robtech stuff. Most of it is eactly like the original released stuff. The only things I can see that are different between the glaug and tactical pods are the color or the plastic and the decal sheet. Same applies for all the 7" destroids and power armors and invid stuff. The re-issue vf-1 is much different however, though both versions suck. The original one was originally designed to be transformable and then made non-transformable. As such it could be made into a transfrmable one with some work. It had arms that were seperte from each other and had hands. The reissue has a solid mas of arms with no hands. Both had shoulder hinges however, though they had no functional purpose without modification.

Don't get either vf. If you have to get one, get an original. The plastic mecha are functionally the same.

I personnally think the original takatoku/bandai/matchbox 1/144 3" destroids were better. They came packaged in styrafoam and some had to have parts attached like a wanna be HCM. The rereleased 3" came in either Civil Defense or Tactical Corps paint schemes, like the originals. Unlike the originals they did not have removable pieces or near the ammount of die-cast

The best thing about them is that they were cheap and could be used to assemble armies for table top gaming.

Here is a pic of four of the ones stamped bandai in their styrafoam. You can see the removable bits and so forth.

GO check this out NOW!

Here's the link: http://members.xoom.virgilio.it/_XOOM/ilma...o/emulatori.htm

If the link doesn't work, cut and past this address into your browser (remember to change "xx" to "tt" in http in trhe address in your browser.) hxxp://members.xoom.virgilio.it/_XOOM/ilmagazzino/emulatori.htm

Everything you need will be there.

-------

for some reason the link MAY take you to a page that gives you an "access Denied" message and then takes you to the site's main page.

If this happens:

Skip the intro and enter the site.

Click on the guy's "games" tab on his sidebar and then choose "emulatori" from the drop-down menu.

That will take you to the Emu section.

THis guy seems to hve everything!

-------

Everyone else should check out this site as well!!

This site has roms for:

NINTENDO:

Game Boy / Game Boy Color

Game Boy Advance ( roms 0001-1122 )

N64

Nes

Snes

VBoy

SEGA:

Gamegear

Master System

Megadrive / 32X / Genesis

MAME:

M.A.M.E thru .71

Neo Geo

Capcom 1 & 2

ARCADE:

Daphne

Model 2

Modeler

NamcoS22

Zinc

COMMODORE:

Commodore C64

CONSOLE:

Colecovision

Intellivision

Microsoft MSX 1 & 2

Miles-Gordon Computing Sam Coupe

Neo Geo Pocket / Neo Geo Pocket Color

Supervision

Tandy Color Computer

Turbo Graphix 16 / PC-Engine

Wonderswan / Wonderswan Color

ATARI:

2600

5200

7800

Good d/l speed 150-200 kbps

call me a dumbass, as many do, but can't the newer macs run PC emulators of slightly antiquated windows? The first series of C&C, which is my all time favorite PC game series besides "worms", was win 98 and I know that will run on a friends mac laptop with proper EMU. Find a working mac EMU [EMUlator], and I will send you the pc C&C that I can, though you are better off PM'ing me as I also rarely check the games section.