kanata67

that's what she said...

if you bought it somewhere that offered extended warrenty services, and you paid the extra money, it's however long you paid for. Manufacturer's warrenty is either 90 days or 1 year... I forget. Anyone who still has the psx2 direction manual can tell you for sure.

You're not alone on that one. I still need to get that movie on DVD. Maybe I should keep waiting, since all of Carpenter's movies seem to be getting the Special Edition treatment these days. ... bad film to watch on acid on an aircraft carrier... did he do "I madman"?

I can post scans of the directions if anybody wants. there are a select few transformers I have/want... many including the omni bots did not make the cut

welcome?!?! Savannahtron's been involved in a four month trade with me... he's been here a while... just got lost in a new job for a bit... battlecry was availible on x-box as well, and psx2 I believe. M3 was dreamcast. There have been others but they are easy enough to emulate rather than have to deal with finding an antiquated system and an original game. I liked vfx digital mission for psx1 myself, and they made a sequal. Not sure what else... the macross games forum might be a good place to start your search though.

looks like someone used to program in dos or ascii oh yeah... get a hold of big o' if you want info on ripping dvd based psx2 games down to cdr size so you can "back-up" cheaper. I'll tell him to make a comment when I see him. Most of the older games are less than 700 megs, as are all the psxone games, so the knowledge is useful. He keeps offering me stuff but I have so many games I haven't played already that I got burnt out . All I can say for certain is he has over a few hundred psx 2 games that work on his unit, not even beginning to factor in the roms, emu's, psx1, etc that he has gotten to work. He's focusing on x-box and setting up a reptile farm so I will see if I can get his attention... BIG O BIG O BIG O ... Can you hear me???

here's what is being offered to me... if it's any help... Yamato --- Transformable Escaflowne 9800 yen 1 case = 6pcs US$50/pcs 1-3 case US$48/pcs 4-6 case US$46/pcs 7-9 case $12 x Bandai 1/72 VF-1D Valkyrie Fully-transformable $12 x Bandai 1/72 VF-1A Valkyrie Fully-transformable $12 x Bandai 1/72 VF-1S Valkyrie Fully-transformable $12 x Bandai 1/72 VF-1J Valkyrie (Max) Fully-transformable $12 x Bandai 1/72 VF-1J Valkyrie (Millia) Fully-transformable $30 x Bandai 1/65 VF-19 Fire Valkyrie New Version Fully-transformable $30 x Bandai 1/65 VF-17S Stealth Valkyrie New Version Fully-transformable 1) Soul Of Chogokin GX18 (Getter Dragon), GX19 (Getter Ligar), GX20 (Getter Poseidon) 160.00 (For All 3 ) (Will included exclusive gift only available thru Bandai Hong Kong) 2)Bandai Gundam FIX 18A 35.00 18B 35.00 3)Bandai Evangelion Test Type Model (NEW LINE) 26.50 1/144 LED Mirage Action Figure (Clear Version) 2,980 yen ...US$9/pcs Haruhara Haruko Action Figure 2,980 ...special price US$12/pcs Gunbuster Action Figure 2,800yen ...special price US$12/pcs BANDAI Mazinger Mazinkaiser Chogokin OVA .....US$75/pcs http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...24&category=348 9" Mazinger Z 1901 Garada figure ....US$15/pcs http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...19&category=747 Bandai Popy 5 gashapon part 3 grendizer + UFO ...US$9/set Transformers G1 Reissue Prowl $14.50 x 12pcs Transformers G1 Reissue Jazz $14.50 x 12pcs Transformers G1 Reissue Hoist $14.50 x 12pcs Transformers G1 Reissue Thundercracker $16.50 x 12pcs Transformers G1 Reissue Skywarp $16.50 x 12pcs 60pcs just fit 30 kg box by EMS (need $200 shipping fee) thanks es88 The above is a few different messages I got... I swear there was a pre order with time frame on the 1/48's but I can't find it at the moment. I know prior 1/48's were less than $100... fell free to cantact easy88 and get put on the mailing list. I mentioned easy to kev but he said he already had a dealer : easyshop 88 To: Sent: Thursday, October 23, 2003 2:45 AM Subject: Special price - Macross Model

aggred we lost a good MW member cuz of that. sex not only sells... it also gathers information prior to public awareness... I have to agree with exo and say just sit back and enjoy... or sell off all your vintage stuff to me real cheap and stock up on current releases... whatever

You're old and foolish now!!! Here's a fun one from earlier this summer of my niece and I. Mad props to whomever can guess what the hell we're doing. pervert seriously... I assume you are either being shot at by something or wathching something blow up. Props for the Pratchett quote in the sig. I read a ton of his stuff in the UK public libraries. Poor turtle...

the f/a 18... the volvo of the navy mine would be the SR-71 blackbird... ecological nightmare that it was kind of funny how many people can't spell the names of the ancient ones properly... oh well... better "CTHULU" than the goat with a thousand young or some of the nasty ones... ambrose bierce did it before lovecraft just in case anyone cares I will never fear a god who cares about mortals... it's the gods who simply want to eat the planet that make me nervous [gee... what to do taday... I know... why not summon one of the gate keepers and possibly lose my soul to something unmentionable and/or destroy the planet]... thank the heavens they ommited many chapters when they released the necronomicon in paperback else some dumb-ass somewhere would have... why anyone would want to risk their life just to have the crap scared out or them and possible be eaten is beyond me

you guys with the peer pressure... I just have to wonder if I have any non-incriminating pics of myself found one... though I still need to take pics of the kevlar for my trade post so expect a better one from me. FYI ... no incriminating evidence around because this was taken by my wife on our wedding night. I took pics of her as well but lord knows I would get yelled at for posting those feel free to make whatever derogatory comments you can think of LOL.

joons made a 1s??? I though all I was missing was the green one?!?! as my monkey collection grows by 3 since the last time I posted

you guys got me edited... "oppression of free speach" and more liberal whining omitted Good thing I didn't go into real detail I will say that I always thought it kind of silly to keep people from knowing some of the common ingredients... wouldn't we be better off if the cashier at the supermarket was suspicous of the hooded guy buying a lot of houshould cleaners? Can we discuss beige-boxing and other abuses of the infra-structure? j/k on a seroius note... what would you guys recomend in a .380?

capt. kramer no longer exists... beware of anyone using that moniker as it will be identity theft. Our beloved capt. has "transmorgified" into opus and retained all the stand up qualities that make him a pleasure to do business with. Once again... opus = good, capt. kramer = ?!?!?! yeah opus additional folk who I've had good transactions with recently include GreenGuy42 -I want to see pics of the finished 1/48 head still Chowser -though he hasn't told me if he likes his new pointy yet ewilen - cool and patient mac000 - hope he's as happy with the trade as I am Savannahtron - made good though possibly a bigger hippie than me HG Blows - cool guy, great deal Hikaru Ichijo SL - for hooking me up with a soundwave if I didn't already give props. more good people will be added soon.

I just have top wonder what kind of format mcfarlane uses for te spawn stuff. I've cut a few apart and know it's surface dyed/painted plastic. The well designed figures take one heck of a beating but it seems there are often poorly bonded/poured parts in many of the figs. great detail and mold work, but piss poor quality control. Actually relavent to rewooh's question... anybody want to give a list of popular resin makers "ie ebay keyword searches] and pro's and con's? I know that the pics of the ultimate 19 resin looked sweet as all hades. I've come across a few manufacturers searching on ebay but I can't help but think that someone who has actually built one would know more than me

Go ewilen, Go ewilen you should keep in touch... I always like to help out those who "grok" the system

I'd show a pic of myself, but it would just make everyone but the ex mil jealous that and someone might recognize me

you don't look that gay, or did you mean the topic? just kidding as for what the typical MW'er looks like... remember the morlocks from the original time machine??? If you want to see a pic of graham... check out the weapons banter thread

you my friend, obviously don't do quality drugs welcome MSth08. I am sure you will enjoy it here. They have warned you about the damage to your wallet but they haven't warned you about the lurking leaches who wait like vultures for some-one to say something like "the only macross collection which i have is 3 pieces of 3 diecasted VF" and then immediately ask if the parts might be of use and if you want to part with them... Hint hint

what if you keep it out the sun? hiding from the sun will definately slow it down to the point where you might not notice in your lifetime, but it still happens. Cave painting that have never seen the sun have faded with time... thats life. Just don't leave it on your dashboard on a sunny day etc... you don't have to be super anal about the ocasional time you walk by a window with it though... it's not a vampire

I normally go for a combination of drybrushing and washing. I use citadel water based acrylics and can't really comment on other brands, but I think the technique would be the same... Do a base coat/primer of whatever. Paint all your main pieces/panels. Do a drybrush of white or mythryl[bright mettallic]. touch up you main bits and do your detain work. Dry brush again with more delicacy. Either dillute the heck out of a paint/paint mix or use an actual wash/glaze diluted appropriately in the manner described by Plastik Missle. You can also do successive washes as in wash the whole thing with a dilute mixture and as the fluid settles into the natural places dab the highest part of a line with a much less dilute [or evel undiluted depending on what you use] mix of the wash. You aren't really painting hear so much as placing just the tip of a very fine brush in the correct spot and letting the piant flow off and along the panel line. repeated thin washes gives better blending. painting detail between washes gives the look of age contrast between parts. always have whatever you are painting in it's natural position when doing washes... ie if you are washing a 1/55 valk in fighter... have it "standing" on it's boosters so te wash will flow as if push by the air during flight. Do a destroid standing as thats how rain falls... upside down just looks weird. need a destoid to practice on?

I still use "super gel" [availible at wallmart's tool dept] as it's as strong as super glue and stays where you put it so you don't have to deal with any of that nasty glue drippage. My only warning is don't get in the habit of taking the top off with your mouth while you use it as you will sooner or later miss when putting the cap back on and glue your lips together. The really sad thing is I've done it more than once

it's basically fancy water for transfers 1. even with stickers... a little goo-gone, a paper towel, and there is no residue. 2 I will par-a-phrase goldenboy_forever and point out that decals will block light from the surface of a toy so any color fading due to sunlight will not occur... which leads to some pretty messed up looking contrasts on, say, a mustard yellow jetfire. As long as you apply decals/stickers properly... ie don't use super glue... you shouldn't have to worry. In 20 years when the decals fall off and you can see the sun damage you can always get reprint decals and cover up the difference oh yeah... goldenboy_forever... I can't help but think that wax would have to come after decals... just like on surf boards... else the decals don't really stick that well. A wax rather than a clear coat? Let us know how it works out.

I am in the unique position to be able to find out for you as a JM suffered greatly in my care so a little disection isn't out of the question... well... that took about a minute. Mine was the same way I guess... with the front part coming out fairly easy. The back tab looks to be shaved at an angle on mine. Anyhow... don't try to pop them both and then remove it... After popping the front tab gently pry the foward part of the canopy upwards. I inserted the end of my flat-head between the halves and rotated it to get it started the first time. The front tab is longer than the back one... just wiggle it till the tab is actually free of the other portion. Here the back half will either easily pop out on it's own, or pop out with a little pressure from a screwdriver [i had to use a screwdriver the first time I did it... I did it twice just to make sure it wasn't a fluke ] Did it three times and didn't even break anything. If I wasn't a rage-a-holic I wouldn't have the corpses though. It is a damn good mod tweaking the interior of a JM cockpit though... I might just have to do that to one or two. hope this helps.

that's why I likened tham to torpedo tubes... as long as it's circular... the end is just tapered to one side to account for the end point. Picture a gun barrel cut at a 45 degree slope at the end... the end is sloped but the bullet still goes straight. I wouldn't think it useful for a projectile but homing type weapons would work fine.