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azrhino

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Posts posted by azrhino

  1. never built one myself but from everything I've heard they are really poorly made, lots of ill-fitting parts with hardly any panel detail, and a crappy canopy.

    I think the MIM kit is actually a crappy recast of the Retppu vinyl kit.

  2. In the "We're back!" thread, Shawn said he couldn't log back in until he deleted his Macross World cookie. Maybe the maintenance made Ashton's old cookie unrecognizable and allowed a new login.

    Good to have you back though!

  3. They can take a long time, as I dont have the luxury of using Bondo or similar quick-setting putties, I have to sculpt, then wait until the next day for the epoxy clay-type material to properly set before I add detail, or machine it etc... it can be frustrating.

    Have you tried a "light bulb oven" to speed up the curing of the putty?

  4. Should I switch to "slice off most of nub, but always remove the last bit via sanding?" (of course, that always dulls the surrounding area)

    That is the best and cleanest way to remove the attachment points. To get the "shine" back on the plastic, you need to polish the area with succesviely finer grits of sandpaper. One of the best (and cheapest) ways is to get a Nail Buffer from a beauty supply shop that has four grades of abrasive. Use each grade in succession, and you will notice the plastic start to pick up its previous shine.

  5. Is it definite that this is a piloted vehicle? I always thought it was an automated robotic controlled vehicle.

    I always thought the same... I've never seen anything to indicate otherwise.

    I also thought it was unmanned, but according to Egan's Macross Compendium, it states:

    EQUIPMENT TYPE: SPACECRAFT

    GOVERNMENT: UNITED NATIONS GOVERNMENT

    MANUFACTURER: LOCKHEE

    TYPE: UNS manned space fighter.

    CUSTOMERS: UNS

    Carrier-borne plane deployed on ARMD class space carriers; 78 deployed on ARMD-01.

    Sorry Valkyrie. We can move this discussion elsewhere if you prefer.

  6. As stated earlier, apply some more MicroSol and after the decal has softened up again, CAREFULLY (I can't stress this enough :) ) use the brush to smooth out the wrinkles. Work from the center of the decal out to the edges to make sure there is no trapped air under the decal.

    Another trick I have used is to carefully sand down the ridges of the wrinkled decal, and then touch up the white spots that are created with paint. After you seal the decals with a coat of Future and then apply a dull coat, the repair is almost invisible.

  7. I've been swamped with stuff for the upcoming WF in Tokyo, contract work for some guys. I will be busy with that for the next few weeks. After that i will make molds of what i have and start offering the basic sets, and get to the add on's sometime by Sept. I still need to get to the second run of the monster as well....

    mike

    No worries Mike,

    The buyers will be there when you are ready to sell. My bank account appreciates the break, too. :lol:

    Thanks for the update, and good luck with all your projects.

  8. last year, due in large part to the monster project, I spent on resin and silicone...............$12,000 :o

    Dude! Please tell me you didn't take a loss on the Monster project.

    I guess on the plus side, is if you did, it reduces your AGI and therefore your taxes. Sorry, last terms class was Federal Taxation. :wacko:

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