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AL11

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  1. So I was wondering what you guys would pay for a, pretty much new off the store shelf, 1/55 scale Bandai VE-1 Elintseeker. No box wear, one side is open though, bright non-faded graphics. Pristine figure and accessories removed from the foam only once then put back. Perfect foam, stickers and everything else unused. So what's the old man worth as he stands in the shadow of the yamato giants?
  2. Awesome work, you know I'm all in for a set I can't wait to see pics once you have the color set!
  3. YES, those feet are awesome. Those are the kind that someone should cast plenty of and sell them to us for cheap! No really, if anyone can lend mslz22 a pair of those beauties so that he could make some copies, I personally would be very grateful. Will someone please come forward
  4. Hey I'm all for the 1/55 parts, because sooner or later I'll get around to all the projects I've started Anyhow, I like the idea of not having to "re-invent the wheel" you guys. I mean, there are some awesome mods that I'm seeing here. The talent and time put into the designs is very apparent. So why don't we send some prime specimens over to the casting experts here so that others who don't have the time or knowhow can enjoy the ideas without having to build from scratch? I like Jasonc's vote for line art accurate 1/55 feet, with maybe some swivel-play for a thigh A-stance mod. Which brings me to the thigh piece. Can this part be casted? That would save a lot of work, not to mention original thigh pieces. Maybe a chest plate with line-art intakes, the canopy with lines on it sounds cool, the usual cockpits with pilots inside(single & dual), just to name a few. Keep the great work up and YES lets pls cast 1/55 parts!!!
  5. Hmm, well the first LV that came out was actually a new color scheme and still looked like a serious fighter. First, good job Yamato in taking the big risk in the production of some new color schemes. Second, ugh, with these new additions the new color schemes angle is somehow all of a sudden reduced to a gimmick. The barber pole camo is well, I'll just leave it at that. The stealth is at least tolerable. Anyhow, I'm sure they'll be eatin up just the same.
  6. If Rohby does a set, I'll probably buy. But I must admit that I agreed with Valkyrie even before I read his post. What Yamato did make a tastefull business decision. Rather than create an entire clear set as a Gimmick, they made clear pieces of only the parts that conceal detail. This is the purpose of the clear parts, to show what's underneath. Why make the detail underneath clear? You wouldn't be able to see it as well and it would defeat the purpose that they had in mind for the clear parts in the first place. I respect Yamato for not pumping out a lot of gimmicks to milk the molds for all they're worth. Like Takara does with their black version, then the ghost clear version, then whatever. Don't get me wrong, I like the transformers line but some reissues have been reissued a bit much. Only thing that comes close to this that Yamato has done is the Low Viz. But even then, it shows that they put some good design and thought into it instead of simply making another production valk in a different color plastic. Heck everybody loves the Low Viz. Anyway, I think this says a lot about Yamatos integrity.
  7. I think I'm already down for a set, but if not, pls put me down for one now. I can pay asap. Thanks Rob. AL11
  8. AL11

    MAX TV VF-1A

    Wow, I was just asking Rob about a custom 1A head for a TV Max just the other day. I am now more motivated to make the custom after seeing your nice work. Thanks
  9. Right, the only difference between primer and paint is the surface they create. Primer is meant to stick to a surface and then create a surface that paint can stick to. So primer has a certain amount of tooth that paint shouldn't. If you use just a primer, you may have to sand with some fine paper to get a good finished look, then seal. The paint just sticks to the tooth of the primer and fills the tiny holes and you get a smooth surface afterward(hopefully). So really, if the primer is the color you want, just finish the surface with a little sanding and then seal and your as good as painted. In any case, I would highly recommend using primer and not just painting a surface with paint. These plastic parts are way too smooth for paint to adhere to without coming off with the slightest abrasion. You really do need the glue in between(Primer).
  10. Wow that's really weird. I've never come across problems with separating the nose of a reissue. The ONLY parts that are glued, and I have taken apart a good many, on a reissue is the backpack(glued on the sides) and the areas where the 2 metal shoulder hindges are held down(by the other section that connects to the nose). I don't get it. Either you have a nose with two halves that are real snug or maybe all the reissue valks I have taken apart just had poorly glued noses. Hopefully, by now, you've got them separated. Let us know what you find and good luck!
  11. Rustoleum nooooo I've experimented with the big rattle can primers, but they really aren't meant for models or small projects like customizing valks. The tooth is just way too course for the small pieces. -real rough. Even if you sand after spraying, the outcome won't be as nice if you use a fine surface primer. I use tamiya fine surface primer. Can't go wrong with it and it comes in grey and white. I still run some steel wool over parts after priming with this primer, and the surface is ultra smooth afterward. But not too smooth, because the paint still needs some tooth to hold on to. I say, if you're going to put some good time and spend a little money on this project, might as well do it right. As far as colors, try mixing your own colors to get that trully custom look. I rarely use colors straight out of the bottle. Take the original low vis valk(or see the review here at MW) and start with a mid-gray and then mix a little blue in, or light green, or both until you get the desired shade and mix in some grey with white to get a lighter grey. Have fun and be sure to post some pics for us when you're done! AL11
  12. Quick question. A local comic book store is going OB so I got a "deal" on the whole Robotech Legacy Box set 1-7 brand new. I gave him $175 for all 7 box sets. Is this a good price? Seen them sell regular price for $40 each. Anyway, just wanted to check to make sure I didn't get took. If I did, let me know. <_
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