promethuem5

my personal favs are Transforemrs, mostly G1, BT/Alt and SOME of the new figs, adn prolly Robotmasters when they come out. then comes Toy Biz's Marvel Legends, Lord of the Rings, and any old Iron Man figs..... And now Macross, only this low cuz of price and quantity Then prolly Legos, still fun at times....and Gundam is starting to appeal to me....I really want a perfect grade Wing Zero, but i just spent a crapload on my 1/48 DYRL Fps and stickers, and preordered the Yammi Monster from BBTS.... I sorta like Star Wars for a bit. but that didnt last....TF type mecha toys are always my fave

aaaaah...i havent got a SDF-1 fig, but I want one...however, depending on price, I would prolly want like five of the plane sprues for use in my minis games.... they look decent enough, with a little paint....

hehe.....I cut the lines wth an exacto knife, drilled the pockmarks, and Future/ink washed the whole thing. came out neato IMO....

Hi: This is my whole Macross collection, and part of my TF collection, locked in combat......

Ive been looking at htis for a while, and a getting curious..... Ive never worked with a resin kit before....is this model crazy complex, or are the insdtructions and such so that it is doable but difficult. Ive only ever worked with plastic and metal before, so if i was gona get one, would get another resin kit first to try out....i must say that this whole project looks absolutely fantastic,a dn i look foreward to the final work even if i dont get one

Well, I just fit all the limbs together and sanded down some parts....and put some filler on all the seams....will sand down when dries.

I was thinking about it....and I figure that I can asemble and paint the arm, then assemble the torso, adn paint, but leave a gloss finish on the arm so i can wipe off any paint i get on it. I also had one other thought....polycaps . Ive done it before, and could prolly mod the arms on this one to have poly caps. I did a Super VF-1S to be Jetfire,a dn added a bunch of Gundam parts to super poseable it. Its got neck, waist, ball jointed hips and shoulders, right wrist, and knees. it rocks, but I need to repaint it...that'll be next on my list. As for the washes....i dont measure exactly, but it is usually about ten drops ink, between five and ten drops water, and two or three drops future. It thins out the ink AND acts like the dishsoap would, in helping with adhesion, but it aslo does alot to make it flow into the grooves only. it also smells nice and fruity while is is drying

ah crap...... Im straxus....

Yeah. I use Future for the washes themselves in place of dishsoap. works like a charm. I know that you can use it for gloss coats too, but I havent tried that out yet. I was gonna go over the mini with Krylon Gloss coat, then future-ink wash it. You got a 1/200 Monster....I HATE you!!!! Was it a sealed in box, or loose? I have seen them go for like a hundred bucks or more on ebay. I had a hard enough time getting a 1/200 Glaug Officer pod...had to get one loose. Well, I have chosen my next piece, a Cannon Fodder VF-1A Battroid and Guardian mode. Im gonna try and all the seam lines right, and get the white to look right. Im not sure on a few things tho. Firstoff, I figured I would build the arms and legs and paint them, but then Im not sure what to do with the body...assebmling it nd painting...How will I deal with the big seam lines on the sides and top if I paintr it unassembled, but then how will I paint it assembled without messing up the white on the shoulders and arms....?

Holy crap!!! I want SDF-1 1/200s!!! Thoise Destroids look great too...something to try and mimic on some of the dozen more ive got (and that's just the Destroids ).....the best news is that Ive got SO MANY of these things left, that I should get enough proctice to really get them right by the end.... That Strike Gundam is still awesome..... cant get over it. love the kanji on the waist cowl especially, and all the joint mods. As for inking on a gloss surface, I have intended to do it on a couple diff things, and always forgotten to....however, I think ive got the perfect thing to finally try it on...

yowsers.....those are simply fantastic. those are some very beutiful pieces you have there

I cant post this in the iMacross thread, so I will do it here: ARGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! One of the bit torrent or ftp programs, Total commander, that you recommend have for downloading stuff gave my comp a poo load of Spyware and Adware!!!! Dam you all!!!!! I had to download two programs to scan and remove the bunch of malicious programs and, my personal fav, 'Data Miners' bastards. why do people make programs specifically to f#@k up other people's comps??????? WHYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY!????????????????

Yeah dude, I do the exact same thing, having learned it from the exact same source, lol. I originally started painting models, but moved into minis pretty quickly. I still keep in mind alot of model stuff, and since the Battlemechs i paint are just like tanks, a modified tank painting technique scaled down can work wonders. If you are looking, pick up Greenburg's Guide to painting WWII German Armor. Sweet book with sweet photos...love it to death. I Sometimes use a crappy normal small paintbrush to dyrbrush small stuff, but I have a great flat brush from Games Workshop that works wonders. As for the paint, I get a blob on the brush, then wipe the brush off on a rag until it stops leaving streaks going in a sweeping motion, then drybrush. I do have one little tank model that I went full out weathering on...I could get you pics if you want. Ben

I think I have heard of Tamiya putty before, in use on other models. When I do try and fill seems, I usually Spackle or, of all things, woood glue . I have found that wood glue is truly amazing stuff. I have done alot with wood glue, from decently filling seems and gaps, to casting bases and minor parts in uncooked sculpey molds (its true!! I'm making alot of my mini bases out of it now on smaller figs, instead of balsa ) I apologize if my first reswponse came off too harsh... I guess it just came out wrong Ben

Hi guys, I am currently working on a crappy 1/44 Strike Gundam from Bandai to get back into the swing of things after being away. The set is the single most dissapointing figure I have ever bought. Almost all of the Gundam kits come with crazy articulation, but this one lacks hand, waist, elbow, and knee joints. I decided that if nothing else, I was going to add posability to the wrists. The kit comes with one piece arms, so the hand is already sculpted onto the arm, but is a bit larger that the grey soft plastic ball wristed ones most kits come with. Using my Dremel, i cut off the hands after assembling the two halfs of the arms. the two pieces of the hand, fingers and thumb, and back of hand armor plate then reseperated, not having any snap pegs. I hollowed out most of the platic in the hands, and removed the thumbs the trim down the profile of a pair of gray soft plastic hands i had lying around. I can now use some putty and buld up the larger hard plastic hand around the soft gray one, with the ball joint at the wrist and batter durability and holding accessories when ready. I also hollowed out a round cavity in the arms at the wrists with a ball shaped Dremel tool. There is a peg and socket right at the wrist, so there is alot of plastic to make a cavity in. I the filled the cavity level with JB Quik Weld and inserted the ball of the gray plastic hands into it most of the way, and let dry. The quik weld dont make a real bond with the soft plastic, so when it is dry, you can pop the ball right out. I then trimmed the excess glue away, and had a perfectly functioning socket due to the slightly rubbery smooth finish of JB Weld. All I have to do now is finish rebuilding the hands and viola! Ben PS. Sorry for the crappy quality of the pics. I think you can get the idea tho....the wearther has been sucky where I live and these were the best I could do in poor lite. Also, I the model finished and can thro up a few pics of the finished assembly. also, i think that excessive removal of the ball from the socket starts to deform the cavity, because one seems to be loosening up a tad....

while I was at it, I just thought I'd throw up these two 1/200 pics to at least show that I do know what I'M talking about, and that I can in fact do better, lol..... These are in paint schemes from Battletech, where most of the Macross designs used to be used until the HG suit enjoy:

fair enough, I stand corrected. looks like reading the whole post thouroughly does help, lol. That first gunam and the regult and the valk look great. True tho, that is a whole diff style we're talking about... clean and even. Id just thought I would throw in somehting I reemberd, looking over the Armored valk fig again....the unevenness of the white isnt in fact from the base being uneven, its because I botched up the ink job and quick still semi wet slopped some more white onto it. I had forgotten about that. Also, on your 'Guncannon" Gundam thingy (sorry, nto xactly sure what it is), you could definetaly use the jeweling techniqu on the cockpit. It looks kinda bland the way it is...at least some dark green ink to darken the border, adn then some gloss maybe... Is that regult the Nichimo kit as well? Ive got two of those in box waiting to be done, along with about 15 other boxes of the Nichimo kits. How exactly did you get the seems to be gone like that? The reason I have had so much trouble with mine is the fast that the seems are all AWEFUL on these kits. One last thing, what did you panel line that valk with? Ive tried pencil, marker,a nd paint and not gotten a good finish

{Edited for being a dumbass} Thanks all for looking. sorry I didnt properly explain what was intended in the finishes of these figs. Yes, I have a 1/100 from Arii, and no, I dont have much exp. in larger figs. most of the stuff I do is about 2 or 3 inches tall at most. see here for some examples: http://www.lordsofthebattlefield.com/galle...s.php?album=151

Hi all, I have never displayed anything on this site before, but I have been using Macross kits for other things, and I finally painted up a couple of them in the Macross schemes. the first one is a Super Brown VF-1A in 1/200 scale. It is moderately posable, with swivels and neck, sholders,a nd hips. I did it with a drybrush and ink scheme. I jeweled the cockpit green. The second piece is Hikaru's VF-1J in the GBP armor, in 1/200 scale. I did this one also with an inking and drybrushing scheme, and it looks pretty beat up. The cockpit on the one os also jeweled green. I BSed the markings on both due to a lack of proper reference materials, so bear with them.

dude, BBTS still has Hikaru 1Js if ur looking.....I just got mine, first 1/48, and i LOVE IT!!! now i need fastpacks and stickers from valk exchange

on the subject of india ink and such for weathering...I do wargamming giant robot minis, namely Battletech, and all I gotta say is...future wash!! I have seen a few people here mention it before, but most of them were just using it for a gloss cote. A few drops of it in an ink wash however, adn you can really go to town, expecially with acryllic basecotes, which are a toughie to ink well. I am interested in the pencil technique as well,a dn am planing on trying it at some point.

well, I dont have any 1/48s, but I did custom up a 1/200 Super VF-1S to be Jetfire. I super posabled it with Gundam parts, adn painted it all weatehred and beat up. Its in my minis gallery on another site: http://www.lordsofthebattlefield.com/galle...s.php?album=151 that 1/60 btw, is fricken awesome...

who's Valk is the Yello trimmed 1A in the third to last pic? and what is that Glaug, it is sweet.

Hey man!!! I just 'crossed over' myself....i think. I havent actaully seen any Macross stuff yet, but I have seen some Robotech. Im not a purist whack job either, and think both are cool. word from a noob with the same experience....skip the 1/60s you'll kill yourself over all the stupid @#$%#^#$#%##@##!!!! diecast.

I realize at this point not to get 1/60s. Whats an FP upgrade? The only prob is that 1/48s are REALLY expensive. and besides, aside formt he Toynami, this was my first real valk