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arbit

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Posts posted by arbit

  1. 1 hour ago, MechTech said:

    One circuit board worked intermittently so I gave up on it. I prepped a second board and before I could get a good test out of it, it has now failed too.

    Was it able to reverse the motor before burning out? A lot of these remotes are designed for ON/OFF only. I haven't been able to find a cheap reversing remote.

  2. 1/12, oh okay, I thought it was 1/6. Looks like a perfect fit for the new Kidzconcept Hikaru figure. I would print this in clear and light it up like a Christmas tree!!!

    @Chavakaiser, we don't mind if you write in Spanish, then google translate and paste here. As you prefer. 

     

     

  3. Cockpit looks amazing. Must be machine polished I think. It looks too good a finish compared to other 3d printed stuff I've gotten on Shapeways with enormous ridge marks.

    But printing something that big must be enormously expensive.

    It's crazy what people are doing with 3d modelling these days. It's liberating... Anyone can make whatever little figure or accessory they want. The days of garage kits being the only option are long gone. 

  4. 45 minutes ago, Chronocidal said:

    To clarify, the lit version comes in an insanely large box, and contains extra sprues that duplicate a large portion of the kit in clear plastic.... with the holes still drilled in them.

    I'm not familiar with this kit, but interested in what you're saying. What exactly is the purpose of the clear parts if they have already provided drilled holes for fiber? 

    I am only guessing that you can use the clear parts to avoid fiber, because it will distribute light internally from the few LEDs provided, and you would black base the outside only.

  5. 3 hours ago, Gatsu said:

    This is absolutely incredible!!!! My only displeasure is that you didn t adhere to the vf_1j hikaru schemes

    Thanks Gatsu. No worries, I left that scheme for you to do B))

    7 minutes ago, Thom said:

    It's looking fantastic!

    What is the ultimate set-up going to look like?

    Thanks Thom. Since you asked, I am working on the exterior box and interior elevator shaft. Sheets of styrene will enclose the box. This is more like carpentry than modeling, and I'm no carpenter :huh:

    907438655_2019-11-0813_28_11.thumb.jpg.9f8a071d67b32c4e28e7d33431803594.jpg

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  6. 8 minutes ago, anubis20 said:

    Started the Kawamori Expo YF-19. This is my 1st Hasegawa kit and holy crap nothing is going to stay together without some glue :lol: There are also a bunch of super tiny pieces and im hoping nothing gets lost in the process :wacko: 

    Yup, you have to glue, sand down, then prime. I use a little q-tip box for those little pieces.

  7. I finished mounting the valk base to the elevator lift. I made a clam shell for the valk base with all its electronics for light and sound.  It seals with magnets so I can get at it in the future. The clam shell is mounted on the scissor lift and will go up and down independently of the remaining electronics for the project.  I only have two sets of wires which come out the bottom of the clam shell for external power and wing motor control. So I can control the wings from the outside with bluetooth along with the other 3 motors in the project.

    The set up inside the clam shell base is an Arduino Micro, speaker, amp, and SD Card, controlling 27 leds and sound in the valk and base.  I only need to access the base for reprogramming, but otherwise power and battery charging will be done from the outside with the lead wires out the bottom.

    The rest of the Flight Deck project is controlled by a second arduino with bluetooth control of the 4 motors (Deflector, Door, Lift, and Wings), and is independent of the valk electronics. 

    The two Arduinos will be turn on at the same time, with the valk's Arduino running a sound and light sketch, and the flight deck Arduino for 4 motors controlled separately by the bluetooth app.

    460694897_2019-10-3006_20_56.thumb.jpg.2a615e7c94b9fde78cad5b080457c79a.jpg

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  8. 3 hours ago, MechTech said:

    That's looking awesome Arbit! Did you use reed valves in place of micro switches for your electrical door "stops"? I didn't add any stops to my "garage door," but think it will prevent something from being broken. Better be safe than lazy and break something I can't easily fix after its painted. - MT

    Hi Mechtech. Thanks for visiting!

    Yes, I used reed switches for the roller. You can see in the previous images how I placed them, and the big ol' magnet is on the exterior of the door. 

    I had to test them carefully for placement to ensure they contact before mounting. Also, the pins of the switches tend to break off the body of the reed switch, so I strengthened them with epoxy.

  9. Thanks mickyg. Glad you passed by.

    21 hours ago, mickyg said:

    "why the door?"

    1. Because I thought it would be cool B)), and I like gimmicks. It is fan fiction, but looking closely at the TV line art, those valk elevators seem to be closed. Maybe someone has other line art examples.

    2. Theoretically, its an "airlock". Only you and I know it's just a garage door roller.

    3. A sliding airlock would be better, but would double the width of the deck... it has to slide somewhere, right? So a roller was the only option for me.

    20191028_095629.thumb.jpg.79cdc3244d673d8b9814b04638837fd3.jpg

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