arbit

Nice work. 

5 hours ago, derex3592 said:

Well....as per usual, things were going a little toooo smoothly..LOL. I jinxed myself thinking "Oh, I'll be able to finish up the Ent C today!" Yeeeh.... right.  So I can't actually tell you what happened, but I think I need to press PAUSE on that new Home Depot Gloss clear coat over Tamiya Acrylics.  Lacquer Tamiya TS sprays aren't affected at all by it. However the blue for the warp nacelles was airbrushed Tamiya Acrylic Sky Blue.  After I brought it in from the garage I noticed it looked like I had lightly misted grey over the blue somehow. Now the blue was painted 7 days ago and not touched until today when I hit with the Gloss coat, so I'm assuming some kind of funky chemical reaction happened to the Tamiya Acrylic when the gloss coat was applied.  You can actually  see it in the picture above on the left one.  Anyways, ok, whatever, remask and respray the blue, no biggie. Did that, then went to decaling. No, I didn't seal the blue this time, because I didn't want a repeat of that. So the top engine decals were a little to big and the extra film folded down onto the blue Tamiya later in the afternoon and stuck down without me seeing it happen. UHHGGG. So now I've scraped off the excess decal and will now have to RE-MASK and RE-SPRAY the blue for the nacelles a 3RD EFFING TIME. But not today. I'm out. .

 

P.S. The warp engine decals for the C are by far the hardest yet. Uhhgg... Hindsight being 20/20 I should have cut them into a million little itty bitty bits and trimmed them all to fit but for F*CKS sake, you don't KNOW that they aren't going to fit and lay down right until you have them on the fracking model and then it's to late! 

 

Sorry...rant mode OFF. 

 

 

I'm guessing that gray tinge may be frosting from the gloss? Happens a lot to me with clear coats, including Future. I've found that a second spray of clear removes the frost.

In any case, the hardware clear coats are just too thick, unless you know how to handle them. I particularly fear Krylon colormaster clear, which seems to have a yellow tinge, as well as being sticky.

And I have my own rant: I've yet to figure out how to safely clear coat anything reliably yet, which is a bummer because it means I cant weather or panel line too much.  90% of the time my clear is not thick enough to withstand the oils, no matter how much I spray the oils seep right into the base coat (I've tried airbrushing Mr. Hobby superclear, Vallejo varnish, and Future, with varying results.  It's particularly hard for me to gloss a large or flat surface. Small parts are okay.) I hope that with practice I will get there.

Now this you have to see.

12 hours ago, Valkyrie Hunter D said:

I'm actually doing a build up of this beast right now at another forum.  I invite anyone who is curious about it to check it out.

Awesome! I will join you over there and bother the heck out of you with questions.

16 hours ago, easnoddy said:

Glad I ordered a new set 001, applying the the vernier nozzles to the nose area in set 002 I got glue on the outside of the metal (there's not really a surface for the glue on the nozzle to attach to, I accidentally wiped it off and took off/smeared some of the tampo.  In set 003 there's these TINY (1 mm x 3mm) little component things to glue on the inside of the cockpit that could just have easily been molded in.  Anyways, when I snipped one of them it flew off to never be found again, no bother, not like you will see it anyways...and its just black on black.

It a very different kit than the Hachette Yamato.  There's more useless/pointless gluing of pieces.  Also, gluing plastic to paint on top of diecast metal just seems like a dumb idea...(like on the seat).

I'm curious about what type of glue is used with these Hachette models?

Plastic cement, ABS Cement, or Super Glue?

505thAirborne, Love your CMS figure collection. Kakizaki and Milia! Why didn't I think of that. I'll have to copy you

Delta-One-One, Nice to see all your old builds. Are you working on anything new these days? Would love to see your work. Join us at the Workbench thread. 

Joscasle, Lookin good! I like the Goodyear tires.

MW member Darkspire17 reached out to me. He isolated the original SDF Macross sound effects which I used in the build, timed with the guns and engine. He has lots of other sounds on youtube if you need them.

Darkspire17 said,

Hello, ive just come to say im very flattered that you used the audio from one of my old videos for your project ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z2lT5Ezj8YM   it's nice to know that ive at least influenced someone with the work i do. Id also like to say you did a FANTASTIC job with your partial flight deck, id love to build one for myself someday!  If you would like some more of the sound effects, i can provide them.

This guy is modifying the Hachette's screen. He does lots of cool stuff.

SunDuk, Nice to see a YF-21 in progress. Scheme looks very interesting. Hope to see lots of photos as you progress.

Mechtech, Interesting set up. I look forward to seeing it function.

Bolt, Looking good. I also have the V1 from Xigfrid. A prized piece next to my M+ valks.

But of course he had to go and make an even cooler V2

For sale 1/60 Yamato VF-4G (Not Arcadia later releases), because I am interested in switching to the VF-4A scheme.

USD 300 (Includes Worldwide registered shipping)

In perfect condition. Never Transformed or played with. All parts and box and instructions and decals included. Displayed in glass cabinet. Box stored in protective carton. Nothing missing. Box Grade A.

Note: 5x decals cleanly applied to each side on non transforming parts, as per photo.

I'm a cat lover too, but I'm allergic to them these days.

I do have four kids, does that count? 

On 1/31/2020 at 3:25 AM, electric indigo said:

Time for some shiny stuff - I recently put the finishing touches on my Hasegawa Fighter 1 kit and just got enough sunshine to snap some pics.

More in the Crusher Joe thread

Relatively flawless.

4 hours ago, joscasle said:

Top final coat applied and ready for decals!!

Really nice work. I think you hit the target for what you were aiming. And that's probably the best photo of the bunch.

Looks like you started with a base coat, then speckled the whole thing, and then a top coat, before the gloss. How much did you dilute each step? I want to do a valk with this method, but a bit concerned.

Oh, and more photos and close ups please 

electricindigo, Very smooth finish as always. You definitely have an air brush style of your own.

I would say that the paint finish, color palette, pixel camo and decals are very nicely balanced.

Everything works together very nice and fits beautifully.

Most real world aircraft are severely weathered with oils, which is cool of course, but your's has the new look I prefer for a change sometimes. 

7 hours ago, MechTech said:

That came out AWESOME Arbit!!! The video thoroughly highlights just how cool this project came out! Congrats on an excellent execution of a great idea!!! - MT

2 hours ago, Graham said:

Amazing.

I hope Kawamori and Tenjin see it.

Thanks gents. I'm not social media savvy. Please feel free to share it around.

Very nice work and hard to choose between the two. Although we rarely see such a nice Gnerl as this one by Takering.

3 hours ago, Return To Kit Form said:

Here is a build up of our 1/72 soldier kit that we call Warren in the workshop. The face is buggered and he isn't going to win any beauty pageants! Not far to go now and he will be the first kit that I have finished in a while.

Warren looks awesome. The build looks perfect and the weathered painting is great too.

Weak us through this: What is the base kit and what customization did you do? Don't tell me this is the old Arii kit.

On 11/10/2019 at 11:10 PM, Reïvaj said:

Thanks @Reïvaj, this cross section really highlights the differences.

Seems to me Bandia traded thicker legs for thinner arms. Guess you cant have both fit.

And here's me playing with my toys... Pick your poison.

On 1/9/2020 at 2:11 AM, Bolt said:

I wasn't feeling nearly ambitious enough to bore that space out enough to hold a 9v and drill through. Figuring out how to make the rear thruster plate attachable and detachable would be the easy part,  but still take some doing..

No need for a big old 9v. A 3v button cell would light an led for days.

I see you used Tamiya epoxy to fill gaps. How well does it bond to resin? And does it sand well?

And we are DONE.

Please enjoy my Macross show. Hope you have as much fun as I did making it.

Comments and feedback welcome (except about one little musical choice ).

Thanks for all your support along the way. Couldn't have done it without you.

8 hours ago, neptunesurvey said:

Won a bronze for this Bandai mini Star Destroyer at 2019 WF in Louisville . Ran 18 feet of .10 mm fiber optic for windows, 2 pico LEDs in the hangar, and 3 LEDS (3mm) for the engines.  If I build another one I will use pico LEDs for the engines instead of the 3mm.  They are a bit large for the interior.  Right now I am working on the Bandai mini Super Star Destroyer and attempting to light that won as well.

Nice work neptunesurvey. It takes more effort to light up a small scale model than a larger one. If you want to win more medals, I can give you a couple tips from what I see here.

- Your engine LEDs are leaking through the plastic on the sides. You can light block so the light only emits out the end of the thrusters. You can try painting the sides of the leds, wrapping the leds in black tape, housing the led in a light-bocked styrene tube, and/or painting the insides of the thrusters black. For light blocking I have used black paper, liquid electrical tape, polyurethane primer, and black and metalic paints. Just keep going till there is no leakage.

-Your fiber is extruding a bit. I use a square of masking tape, put a 0.10 hole in the center, slide it down each fiber, then snip it with a flat sniper or nail cutter without damaging the model.

- You can adjust your resistors for each effect so they look right in real life for the audience. 

- You can use a thinner tube to base the model at this scale by switching to thin 0.30 enamel wires.

Hope that helps.