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arbit

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Everything posted by arbit

  1. arbit
    Nice work.
  2. arbit
    I'm guessing that gray tinge may be frosting from the gloss? Happens a lot to me with clear coats, including Future. I've found that a second spray of clear removes the frost. In any case, the hardware clear coats are just too thick, unless you know how to handle them. I particularly fear Krylon colormaster clear, which seems to have a yellow tinge, as well as being sticky. And I have my own rant: I've yet to figure out how to safely clear coat anything reliably yet, which is a bummer because it means I cant weather or panel line too much. 90% of the time my clear is not thick enough to withstand the oils, no matter how much I spray the oils seep right into the base coat (I've tried airbrushing Mr. Hobby superclear, Vallejo varnish, and Future, with varying results. It's particularly hard for me to gloss a large or flat surface. Small parts are okay.) I hope that with practice I will get there.
  3. arbit
    Now this you have to see.
  4. arbit
    Awesome! I will join you over there and bother the heck out of you with questions.
  5. arbit
    I'm curious about what type of glue is used with these Hachette models? Plastic cement, ABS Cement, or Super Glue?
  6. arbit
    505thAirborne, Love your CMS figure collection. Kakizaki and Milia! Why didn't I think of that. I'll have to copy you
  7. arbit
    Delta-One-One, Nice to see all your old builds. Are you working on anything new these days? Would love to see your work. Join us at the Workbench thread.
  8. arbit
    Joscasle, Lookin good! I like the Goodyear tires.
  9. arbit
    MW member Darkspire17 reached out to me. He isolated the original SDF Macross sound effects which I used in the build, timed with the guns and engine. He has lots of other sounds on youtube if you need them. Darkspire17 said, Hello, ive just come to say im very flattered that you used the audio from one of my old videos for your project ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z2lT5Ezj8YM it's nice to know that ive at least influenced someone with the work i do. Id also like to say you did a FANTASTIC job with your partial flight deck, id love to build one for myself someday! If you would like some more of the sound effects, i can provide them.
  10. arbit
    This guy is modifying the Hachette's screen. He does lots of cool stuff.
  11. arbit
    SunDuk, Nice to see a YF-21 in progress. Scheme looks very interesting. Hope to see lots of photos as you progress. Mechtech, Interesting set up. I look forward to seeing it function.
  12. arbit
    Bolt, Looking good. I also have the V1 from Xigfrid. A prized piece next to my M+ valks. But of course he had to go and make an even cooler V2
  13. arbit
    For sale 1/60 Yamato VF-4G (Not Arcadia later releases), because I am interested in switching to the VF-4A scheme. USD 300 (Includes Worldwide registered shipping) In perfect condition. Never Transformed or played with. All parts and box and instructions and decals included. Displayed in glass cabinet. Box stored in protective carton. Nothing missing. Box Grade A. Note: 5x decals cleanly applied to each side on non transforming parts, as per photo.
  14. arbit
    I'm a cat lover too, but I'm allergic to them these days. I do have four kids, does that count?
  15. arbit
    Relatively flawless.
  16. arbit
    Really nice work. I think you hit the target for what you were aiming. And that's probably the best photo of the bunch. Looks like you started with a base coat, then speckled the whole thing, and then a top coat, before the gloss. How much did you dilute each step? I want to do a valk with this method, but a bit concerned.
  17. arbit
    Oh, and more photos and close ups please
  18. arbit
    electricindigo, Very smooth finish as always. You definitely have an air brush style of your own. I would say that the paint finish, color palette, pixel camo and decals are very nicely balanced. Everything works together very nice and fits beautifully. Most real world aircraft are severely weathered with oils, which is cool of course, but your's has the new look I prefer for a change sometimes.
  19. arbit
    Thanks gents. I'm not social media savvy. Please feel free to share it around.
  20. arbit
    Very nice work and hard to choose between the two. Although we rarely see such a nice Gnerl as this one by Takering.
  21. arbit
    Warren looks awesome. The build looks perfect and the weathered painting is great too. Weak us through this: What is the base kit and what customization did you do? Don't tell me this is the old Arii kit.
  22. arbit
    Thanks @Reïvaj, this cross section really highlights the differences. Seems to me Bandia traded thicker legs for thinner arms. Guess you cant have both fit. And here's me playing with my toys... Pick your poison.
  23. arbit
    No need for a big old 9v. A 3v button cell would light an led for days. I see you used Tamiya epoxy to fill gaps. How well does it bond to resin? And does it sand well?
  24. arbit
    And we are DONE. Please enjoy my Macross show. Hope you have as much fun as I did making it. Comments and feedback welcome (except about one little musical choice ). Thanks for all your support along the way. Couldn't have done it without you.
  25. arbit
    Nice work neptunesurvey. It takes more effort to light up a small scale model than a larger one. If you want to win more medals, I can give you a couple tips from what I see here. - Your engine LEDs are leaking through the plastic on the sides. You can light block so the light only emits out the end of the thrusters. You can try painting the sides of the leds, wrapping the leds in black tape, housing the led in a light-bocked styrene tube, and/or painting the insides of the thrusters black. For light blocking I have used black paper, liquid electrical tape, polyurethane primer, and black and metalic paints. Just keep going till there is no leakage. -Your fiber is extruding a bit. I use a square of masking tape, put a 0.10 hole in the center, slide it down each fiber, then snip it with a flat sniper or nail cutter without damaging the model. - You can adjust your resistors for each effect so they look right in real life for the audience. - You can use a thinner tube to base the model at this scale by switching to thin 0.30 enamel wires. Hope that helps.
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