Neova

And I think Haterist was correct in making that non-Canon Green Skull Leader:

In DYRL, there also appears to be a yellow and red CF (see markings behind the intakes):

Sweet old school mech. We need more like this!

HWR MKII, Great writeup. Let me ask you this question cuz it kills me when I see a good kit with a crap cockpit: Can you use your acetate method to mold cockpit CANOPIES? I have a few resin kits here and the solid resin canopies bug me and there are not cheap alternatives (clear casting is an option but I cannot recast my foot out of my door). Also, can I use a hot hair dryer to heat the acetate sheet or do I really need a heat gun? How hot does it need to be? I can borrow one if need be. Keep it up.

Tooz, You got anymore Hasegawa model wall papers? Any in at least 1024x1280? I have a 1600x1200 desktop and the stretching kills the details. Keep it coming!

Ok, who made these? I was looking at the old Studio Half Eye full transformation kit and but this is AWESOME? Is this PVC or ABS with some or no die cast? More info please! I think a group buy needs to be started.

Bump! Available in limited supply again.

Damn... Now I have to find more VF-1Xs to customize... What about the VF-1 X Plus from Macross VF/X2? Did that have a different head too?

Carl, Incredible collection! Have you built any of these yet? Are they all really 1/100 scale or as some has said, fluctuates between 1/72 and 1/100? I'm so envious. If I won the lottery, I would have all these kits mass produced again, albeit scaled up to 1/72 at least!

The Sithlord returns! Looks fantastic!

It is true that without the background of SDF-1 or even Robotech, getting the full picture of DYRL can be hard for a non-Macross Zealot first time viewer. Personally, I love DYRL due to my earlier exposure to SDF-1. It only made DYRL better in so many ways. And I enjoy watching Jerry Bruckheimer / Michael Bay movies. Great to just veg and absorb the mayhem! You all know Macross 7 would be better if the two director / producer combo make the movie version! J/K... please put away the pitchforks and nooses.

柿崎速雄, Thanks! I missed this the first time you posted it!

Kurt, Beautiful as always. Can you post some BIGGER shots? Would make great wallpapers!

Someone needs to be court marshaled for their incompetence! US Government (lack of) Management and Bureaucracy at its finest. Glad no one was hurt.

Most toys nowadays are ABS, PVC or combo of both. Styrene is used less and less due to much more complicated molds and the need for strenght. However, depending on the requirements of the toys, UV blocking additives can be added to increase their ability to stay minty white (or keep original color) and to hold its strenght up, as Cory has said. You can pretty much tell the quality of the plastic but cannot tell if UV inhibitors were added or not until your toy turns yellow. Mr Color has a new clearcoat for modelers that has UV inhibitors (note UV can reduce the brilliance in your paintjobs) so I'll try it on a custom and see what happens.

My new wallpaper collection! Any more Hasegawa or custom model wall papers? If anyone needs hires scans from Model Graphix, Hobby Japan and Dengenki Hobby, let me know! I don't have all the Macross Issues but will supply whatever I can.

The original kit was made by Club M. It is no longer in production but recasts are available. You can find it if you look hard enough. I have a recast kit that may be available soon so let me know. If you want an original, PM me.

These are great but rather that wishing for brand new kits, what about resin upgrade parts for existing kits? Some of these appear to be restylized military vehicles and a little cutting here, slap on the resin part, hide the seam lines and whalla, instant kit bash. Using a mass produced kit as the basis would help save cost and probably get projects like this on the way. If I could make it happen, I would ask Hasagawa to make all of these kits as well.

I just wanted to say Welcome Back Seiichi and what a stand up guy he is. He is busy but has my highest recommendations.

TV Max VF-1S! Love it! So how about a Millia's now? And post some hires pictures in the toys forum will you?

The correct pronunciation is MEE-LEE-A. (silent first L) There is no "R" sound in the Japanese, even though the Romanji (Romanized Japanese using Roman (English) Alphabet) have the letter R there. The whole point of having a R and L in Romanji is to differentiate between the Japanese Hiragana and Katakana vowels: LA LI LU LE LO and RA RI RU RE RO. The "sound" of R is actually the same as L when coupled with a vowel, so both sets of vowels above is pronounced and sounds exactly the same. Both use the L sounds. Listen to a NATIVE Japanese (non recent learner) speak. Only the non natives speakers like Spanish and English would pronounce the R. MIR - REE - A (English/Spanish speaker) vs MEE - LEE A (native Japanese speaker) Phonetically, Hasegawa is correct. We need a print of how Millia is written in JAPANESE to determine the actual romanized spelling.

Nice writeup Graham... More Q/A report for Yamato..

I find this ironic coming from someone who claims to love you, for better or for worst, in sickness and in health, til death do you part. I want to see someone here go onto a "women's" forum and post the same thing, but from Yang's Wife's viewpoint and see what the reaction is. Create a fake account if need be. I would love to hear it. Don't be a doormat but really, she needs to learn that it takes two to Tango and she can't lead all the time.

The black neckpiece has a L bend at the back where you need to push DOWN on to snap that piece in place. It must be facing the back. Once snapped in, it will hold the head. You can still rotate the head and it won't be wobbly.

BUMP