Neova

What are the exact names of the English version books? I might need to score it on amazon or find someone stateside to pick it up for me.

You need to file a claim with USPS for a refund on your money. I hope you had it insured or it was covered with the shipping option.

Then they will track it due to the claim.

Also, if the BUYER did not flat out say never receiving it, he may have gotten it and is playing off the fact that you have no further tracking to hold payment. I mean seriously, how hard is it for someone to email or come onto the forum to screaming at you for not sending them their stuff?

Sounds fishy all over to me...

Selling for a friend.

Framed and approximately 12" x 16" - need to double check this - could be 14" x 18" original hand drawn Lynn Minmay and autographed artwork from 1999.

This is NOT an autographed print!

It is a real hand drawn artwork from Hal - Haruhiko Mikimoto - for a local person who had an inside track to all things anime back in the late 90s. Ink appears to be acrylic due to age and is pristine as it was stored in darkness. I was given an opportunity to hold and look at this upfront but not allowed to remove the art from the glass frame for further inspection to prevent any damage. You can still see the ink residue at the end of the pen strokes.

Due to various reasons, it is up for sale now:

Correction : $2000 USD asking price. If you want to make an offer, you can, but no low balling. All those will be ignored.

Rules:

Since this is for a friend locally in Hong Kong, and not my personal item, there are requirements to facilitate this deal:

1) I can inspect the item on your behalf. Discretion up to the seller to allow amount of handling. More than likely will not allow me to remove item from picture frame until payment has been transfered.

2) I can proxy between you and the seller since you do not know him

3) Payment MUST be by Western Union since the owner does not have paypal. Also I don't want to hassle with exchange rates through my personal paypal account and get stuck with fees or shipping responsibility.

4) Item will be insured for full value at shipping of your choice via Hong Kong Postal Service - SEA, AIR or EMS. If you choose to devalue the item to mitigate customs charges, you take the risk should ANYTHING happen to it and accept whatever it was insured for. Do not EVEN think about disputing this.

Protect yourself and eat the custom charges for full insured value.

5) If you are local, you can pickup or deal with the owner yourself. I am offering it to fellow MW'ers only.

6) NO DIBS, HOLDS or CALLS. First paid, first shipped.

Hi, is it possible you still hace it?

"have it" XD

It is still available. PM me to discuss further.

Are these still available?

Mike,

Put me on the list. Can't have enough Monsters!

I have the recast 1/48 YF-21 kit... in fact... it is sitting in box along with the 1/48 YF-19... If you want it, PM. I have no more time to model.

Posting for a friend. See the pictures for details. Was MISB but had to open the brown shipper to check it is real. The tape around the foam has not been removed for inspection so still factory sealed.

650 USD - The last one I saw locally sold for 850 USD +. Price is firm. You are welcomed to offer more.

Since this is for a friend locally in Hong Kong, and not my personal item, there are requirements to facilitate this deal:

1) I can inspect the item on your behalf. Discretion up to the seller to remove tape. Most likely not going to happen.

2) I can proxy between you and the seller since you do not know him

3) Payment MUST be by Western Union since the owner does not have paypal. Also I don't want to hassle with exchange rates through my personal paypal account and get stuck with fees or shipping responsibility.

4) Item will be insured for full value at shipping of your choice via Hong Kong Postal Service - SEA, AIR or EMS. If you choose to devalue the item to mitigate customs charges, you take the risk should ANYTHING happen to it and accept whatever it was insured for. Do not EVEN think about disputing this.

Protect yourself and eat the custom charges for full insured value.

5) If you are local, you can pickup or deal with the owner yourself. I am offering it to fellow MW'ers only.

6) NO DIBS, HOLDS or CALLS. First paid, first shipped.

Incredible collection and thanks for the info. I have a "healthy" 1/6 collection and can't stand all the Amazonian females I have in the group so was looking at replacing or modding the bodies. I do have a few obitsus for testing...

Curious which obitsu body you use to replace your Anime dolls and if you have any pictures of your other figures?

If you're worried about the rubber sleeve tearing further, try to bend the ball joints all the way open to expose it as much as possible. You are trying to get to the point where the sleeve does not cover the joint. Then dab a small bit of polish. When it dries, turn it the other way around 180 or as far as possible, and dab a small bit on the OTHER side of the joint where the joint is exposed and the sleeve has pulled away from it.

This way, you are putting friction back on the naked joints where the sleeve doesn't touch.

This is a hit or miss depending on how the rubber sleeve bunches up. You just want to tight up the joint spots where the sleeve has slipped.

Or if you have balls, just take the whole joint apart and replace the sleeve with thicker or fresh rubber sheet like how Yamato shows owners how to fix their 1/24 Patlabor torso ball joints.

I have a 1st issue 1/60 VF-0A with broken elbow and totally cracked, almost breaking knee joint still here from a swap I did for fellow MW a long time ago. Yamato didn't take it back and I had to eat that cost! Grr.... But maybe I can develop stronger joints off it and offer to Zero owners. Will need to take it apart and see what is possible.

I believe the version 2.0 Zeros still have slightly loose joints.

Just don't force it and use the clear nail polish on the ball joints trick to help tighten them up. Nothing you can do about it without replacing or remaking the joints.

I don't pose my zero's much for this reason and leave them in static poses most of the time. I definately pose my 1/48 VF-1's more than the 1/60s or 1/100 VB-6!

RE: VE-1 and VF-1Ds. I would not worry too much about the pricing and availability if you can wait it out. Unless Yamato specifically says those were limited editions, there is always a good chance for a re-issue, especially when prices are going so high for them now. Same for Bandai.

... per forum rules. Thanks for the update Exo.

That is not bad actually. The SV-51 can be had for between 100-120 USD in Hong Kong plus ~ 25-30 USD shipping to the states, so that is about correct. Previiously the SV-51 was ~ 150 USD before shipping.

I will post a picture when I get home later today. It is ~ 1/3 to less than 1/2 page of A4 (8.5"x11") but will know when I get home. All single sided on 1 sheet.

Picture of my sets attached. Note there are no decals for the Fast Packs. These are ORIGINALS from Yamato Japan and not fan made reproductions

How many sets were you looking for? A friend of mine has 8 sets in hand that he is selling at 150 HKD a set before shipping. PM me if you're interested.

If FM doesn't I still have a bunch of 1/48 sets here but without boxes, otherwise 100% new and mint, with blister, decal, manuals and micro missiles. Shipping should be fairly good since I can repack it into a much smaller box.

Woah! First time I've seen these! Bravo!

Any chance for a 1/48 set? I'll take em all!

@neova, i have case of shaky hands so its hard for me to panel line it.

If you want to test panel line, grab a soft lead mechanical pencil - 0.3mm and try it. If you don't like it, you can erase it.

The new movie should be animated.

http://www.youtube.c...h?v=6SsHfWBLVr0

Is it me or is Rothamon and Serpentor from GI Joe really the same and one character from this intro?

If you want to know if the VF-0S or VF-0A were re-issues or not, get the super pack combos. Those were supposed to be fixed from the regular editions, except for the stand alone VF-0A which is a different color scheme.

I would get the zeros asap. I love em for over all design and size. They look like modernized versions of VF-1 and to me looks better than a non super or strike VF-1.

just made another 1S hasegawa.. using the same kit, now hikaru's unit.

I think that is one of the most perfect pose of a VF-1S battroid I've seen! Beautiful! So bad ass in fact I'm going to break out my 1/48 VF-1S Hikaru now and work on detailing it. If you add slightly feint panel lines, it will look even better!

If someone has Hasegawa 1/72 and Yamato 1/60 + 1/48, I would love to see the same exact pose side by side!

VF-25 with Armoured pack + reaction missiles or VF-25 with Tornado pack. Tornado pack is awesome.

Graham

I just saw the Bandai 1/72 model of the VF-25F Tornado set and it cost MORE than the armored 25S or F! That must be totally badass then.

The main issues with the first issue / production 1/48 VF-1S Roy and Hikaru, and VF-1A Hikaru were loose nose cone (fixed with a change in tooling so the nosecone has a slot to bite onto), some floppy joints tightened. slightly loose canopy??? and crooked skulls on the tail fins.

The 2nd production starting with the first issue VF-1A Max fixed all that. So 2nd issue VF-1S Hikaru + Roy, and VF-1A Max and 2nd production Hikaru, and first issue VF-1J Hikaru (regular and super pack) were all fixed. 3rd production were fairly good too with little complaints.

But as time went on, around the 4th production, crooked skulls came back on a few of them since I was asked a lot to part out straight skull fins here on MW, and by the 5th or 6th production, when the 3rd re-issue Max and Millia came around, reports of exploding shoulders for the first time came out for 1/48s.

This was when the wave of the super cheap Max and Millia Super 1J sets and I think the VF-0 series. Now you guys know why. There were complaints by buyers here in HK about it. I am not sure of the DRYL VF-1s shoulders at this point.

Funny that the price of plastic and labor goes up but the 1/48s get cheaper yet costs more to make than a 1/60! Probably a change in factory or something.

You are usually safe with 2nd - 4th production and I don't think the VF-1S had exploding / crackling joints ever but best to check with recent buyers of new stock.

I know you wanted to choose between a,b or c but if this was in space, there is only one choice with the VF-1x platform:

Stampede Valkyrie