Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by VF-19

  1. I used Ross super glue. But, wouldn't that fog up the clear piece? Your best bet would be a 5 min epoxy. It will never come out again! But, I don't know if it will dry clear. All I know is that Lepage 90 min set epoxy does dry pretty clear (worked wonders for my 1A Max. see pic a few posts back), and it will be super strong.
  2. I'm really sorry to hear about the damages to your car... I'd be pretty pissed if my bike (since I don't own a car) was smashed into... If it's any consolation, if they do catch the guy who did the hit and run, they can PROVE that he did it. They'd be able to match your paint on his car to yours. Anyways hope it gets better soon!
  3. I'd like to clarify my order. I'd like to order: Jet intake/hip (don't know what else to call it) - #R-L1 & L-L1 - 1:60 - Super VF-1J
  4. I'd thought I'd post an update as to the status of my Max 1A, who had suffered a damaged shoulder! I think I'll let the pic speak for itself!
  5. I for one think it's a great idea. I personally think you should go for it, as it probably would be convient for many people here (myself included) to have somebody in Japan ordering the parts they need (canopies excepted) to fix their hurting Yammie. If you were to compile a list, would part R-L1 and L-L1 be on that list? They're the top most leg section, the one with the hip joint in them in the 1:60 Valks. As far as I know they come in several variants. For as you may or may not know, my R-L1 on my VF-1J is damaged. In anycase GO FOR IT!
  6. Ha! I've had my pre-order for about 2 months now! Can't wait for Prime!
  7. Now that is what I like to see! Pity he will never be a toy... He'd be cool to have on my shelf!
  8. If it was sized up, then it would mean it's less than 1:72... I'm not really a huge sucker for scales, just as long as it looks good. And that the hips don't break on me.
  9. I'm in the same boat with toy addiction... But I love my addiction... Even if the people whom I live with don't. As soon as I see Optimus up for pre-order, I'm putting one down for me. I may even try to scratch build a non transforming trailer... Just for looks. Shouldn't be too hard, it's a basic retangular shape...
  10. Now those are two beauties! Now which one to get...
  11. I've decided to quote myself just to make this post a wee bit clear. As you can see in the picture, the arm's off (and yes, I had to saw through a peg to get it off), and the ball joint is exposed. This ball is attached to the shoulder plate via a metal pin. Now the problem is, is that the ball is not staying put, as the pin or glue is not holding the ball in place. I'm thinking a two part epoxy glue. One part would be where the pin attaches to the inside of the shaft, and the other would be where the ball attaches to the outside of the shaft. Is this a good course of action. I don't want to use superglue as it may not hold up to wear and tear. Also, for this I'm planing to use the highest rated strength epoxy so it stays fixed (which may be 30 min epoxy). Any suggestions would be welcome.
  12. You haven't named it Luke yet? I've got some damage on both of my Yammies. The 1J has a cracked hip joint. Looks bad, but it is stable, and isn't progressing/deteriorating (probably because I'm not touching it until I can get a new one. My new Max 1A has some slight damage to the left shoulder joint, due to me seeing how far the shoulder can rotate up and down. Turned out I disloged the ball socket from it's rivit... I'll post pics as soon as I get my hands on the digicam. Doesn't look like it's too bad, nothing some super epoxy can't fix.
  13. Ahhgh... CF18 you've got pics of my favorite aircraft... The spitfire... I was planning to go this year to the one in Carp (outside of Ottawa), but I was unable to...
  14. Here's my question. I recently got my 1:60 max (which I like very much... except he's a tad naked without the fast packs), and due to a tad bit of stupidity on my part, the left shoulder has been partly damaged. I took it apart, and noticed that there is a ball joint that's rivited to the arm plate (or whatever you'd call the part that the arm attaches to. Now I was able to push the rivit and ball joint back into position, but I'm worried... Is there any thing I could do, like epoxy or superglue the joint (with the arm off)?
  15. Well... It is worth it, and at the same time, some may disagree... I kinda straddle both arguments. I suggest you rent it first and then buy it if you like it. BTW your scratched disk can be fixed quite easily, just find a shop that will resurface your disks. I don't know if you have a Microplay in your area, but they'll do it.
  16. VF-19

    Yamato Parts

    If it's the 1:60 scale 1S you're out of luck... I tried ordering a new hip piece for my 1J and I tried multiple valks, but HLJ wasn't able to get any of them in... You might try asking in the proper forum here on the MB...
  17. Could have been another blue coloured VF-0, or it could have been caused by the lighting of the scene.
  18. Your death from radiation would happen if you left the vincinty of the Earth area. The Earth is protected from solar radiation from the Van Allen belts (I believe, I could be wrong though), and if you left the area of protection from these belts, without protection, you'll die from radiation overexposure.
  19. Well, the above point about the VF-0 being more advanced than the VF-1, may be valid in some area. My question is: Does the VF-0 actually have a wrap-around cockpit like the YF-19 does in Battroid mode? It seems so, but then there's these monitors that are positioned around the pilot in such a way, that it seems that they look out of it... Other than that, I'd say that the VF-1 may actually be more advanced in the end... But then again, lots of data concerning the VF-1 survived Space War 1... Data concerning the VF-0 probably was destroyed when the Zentradi burned the Earth (so to speak)...
  20. Ahh yes, Freespace 2. I played it to death, and I think, if this pack works, I'll play it again to death. To me, this was the only game that had deadly capital ships. Many other space sims (Star Wars etc...) capital ships were just really big floating targets that you got medals for. Not here. Beam weapons, flak turrets, and good old laser cannons protected the ship. Not to mention, friendly fire isn't so friendly if you get in the way of those nasty anti-capital ship beam weapons when they're firing...
  21. My first Yamato was the VF-1A Hikaru type, which I had to return to the store because of a defect in it (I believe it was one of the locking joints in the hips that was damaged). My first perment Yamato resident in my room is my Super VF-1J, which now has a damaged hip (hopefuly rectified when I get my paws on a replacement). I love Yamato, but the price is what's keeping me from buying more...
  22. Just a slight change. I was a prototype that killed a few of it's pilots. Now I'm a full production version!
  23. Just 2. 1:60 VF-1J 1:60 VF-1A Max (just came in) However, I hope to expand to the two recent re-releases of the Macross Plus line.
  • Create New...