electric indigo

On 5/30/2020 at 6:34 AM, nightmareB4macross said:

Is there other work from the builder?

Luca Zampriolo - he's basically Italy's Makoto Kobayashi.

The report also notes:

"Touchscreens weren’t the only issue in the collision: the report calls out that several crew members on the bridge at the time weren’t familiar with the systems that they were overseeing and were inexperienced in their roles, and that many were fatigued, with an average of 4.9 hours of sleep between the 14 crew members present. The report recommended that the Navy conduct better training for the bridge systems, update the controls and associated documentation, and ensure that Navy personnel aren’t tired when they’re on the job."

From my experience in designing industrial GUIs, they provide much greater flexibility, reduced information load, because the content can be adapted specific to the situation, and flatter learning curve (and yes, you still have to be highly trained to operate a complicated system).

One of the coolest Macross designs x beautiful sculpt x masterful finish = awesome³

Sanding some epoxy resin garage kits really makes you appreciate sanding ABS.

Turns out ejecting co-pilots are not a privilege of l'Armée de l'air, and you don't even need a civilian passenger:

Emergency, my RIO just ejected

I remember leaving the cinema after Empire (on it's original release) and thinking "Wow, that was... too fast!"

Three Platz 1/72 resin kits are up for another re-release in June (no Sylphid, though)

Product listing at Hobbysearch

I also planned to paint the markings on Alto's plane, until I realized how complex the scheme really is. I have yet to muster the courage to pick it up again...

@wm cheng I can imagine how painful that moment must have been when the canopy cracked. But on the bright side the problem is fixable for the price of another kit. And the rest of your build looks excellent with the well balanced weathering. It could pass as a 1/48 kit in those shots.

Technically impressive and with solid acting, but unfortunately, for the final act they ran out of ideas before they ran out of bullets IMO. And the repetitive slaughtering of police/army men got on my nerves.

But I'm totally hooked on "No see" by Man.Goes Human from the soundtrack.

I'm in!

I finished my Sylphid to 90% ten year ago, but it took a few hits in a move since then and needs some care. Here are some old pics:

I highly recommend replacing the resin canopy with a heat-pressed part, I used a blister pack heated on the stove and the original part as a plug. I still have the kit part and it has gone dark yellow. The cockpit detail is not too bad, and a Hasegawa pilot will make things more exciting.

The colors came out great! I guess the decals are from a custom sheet?

Really cool colors on that custom B-Wing. And flawless execution.

Keep on modeling!

I guess "Sixpack Dave" would be a tad too blunt, wouldn't it?

28 minutes ago, TangledThorns said:

Just because it sounds like a good idea it doesn't mean it is. 

I find your lack of faith disturbing...

Whoa, did you ink all the windows individually with a pen or did you apply a wash & wipe?

The Idolmaster Rafale is indeed the quite good original Revell kit, and Hase even used a Monogram Mirage 2000 in their Idolmaster line.

Tamiya has released the mediocre Italeri A-10 and Su-27 under their brand in Japan. Imagine the disappointment.

Always go to Scalemates to check what's in the Box. The range goes from ancient Lindberg to recent Zvezda or Italeri kits. 

Revell has kits from the new movie coming, but of course they had to dig out the most horrendous molds from last century (Monogram?):

https://www.revell.de/produkte-revell/top-gun-maverick/

Just great! It looks like it came from the pages of a japanese modeling magazine.

The 1/72 Airfix kit was the first plastic model I built. Looking forward to see more visuals.

If I'd have to work with paint that is 90% thinner, I'd never finish a kit...

_

Recently, I unearthed a tool from the ink & paper period of technical drawing and found it very helpful for creating circle sections from masking tape. That came in handy for the Fitter canopy:

15 hours ago, MechTech said:

Electric Indigo, your finish is smooth as always! What ratio of paint to thinner do you use? We have some guys in our club that thin down something like 8:1. They do a ton of coats to build it up. Their bottles look like thinner with a thin layer of paint at the bottom.

Wow, 8:1 sounds really excessive. Are they doing those super shiny car finishes?

I use Tamiya acrylics exclusively; with a fresh jar a ratio of 2 parts paint to 1 part thinner usually works fine for flat paints. For gloss finishes I may go for a 3:2 ratio, for detail work like weathering it would be 1:1. What matters most IMO is to get a wet coat in the first pass, then put the part aside, do not directly apply the second pass, as your paint may not be able to level on a semi-dried undercoat. Flat paints are more forgiving here. Adjust the paint output and the spraying distance so that you get enough paint on the part in that first pass. Do not spray in the direction of an already coated area, but away from it as the mist will stick on the semi-dried paint without leveling properly. I usually spray really close to the surface (2-5 cm) to adjust for my airbrush's output. This goes down to 1 cm for detail work.

It's about american bombs stored in Germany. The Luftwaffe needs a replacement for their Tornados and the F-18s are a viable option for their role. NB that the political opposition wants to get rid of the bombs and the need for the F-18s altogether.

William, what you see on the kit right now is all post-shading, as the black pre-shading got almost completely swallowed by the base colors. I guess I could have started with an even thinner paint mix, but I find the post-shading better to control anyway.

I mix the base colors a tad darker and dirtier than I want the final appearance to be, and then apply a mix of (flat) base color and gloss(!) white in a 2:1 ratio, thinned 1:1 for easier application in thin layers for tonal & specular variation.