Darth Mingus

It looks like Hasegawa will be releasing 1/48 photo-etch upgrades for the VF-1 and YF-19:

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_UVRoF5dMi7U/TLlicdHrdxI/AAAAAAAAT8s/qHxhP-uymTM/s1600/7.jpg

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_UVRoF5dMi7U/TLliepWLtWI/AAAAAAAAT8w/6i6H-Nhgjao/s1600/9.jpg

Tokyo Hunter had them listed. I never did any business with these guys so I don't know what commission they charge:

http://tokyohunter.blogspot.com/search?updated-max=2010-05-11T01%3A35%3A00%2B09%3A00&max-results=10

It was listed towards the bottom of this page on his blog.

Oops, just noticed that the pre-order period ended on June 14th.

Sorry...

Anybody know a good online source for preordering the two accessory sets for the Fire Valk (Sound Booster & stand)?

Just looked at HLJ & amiami, but couldn't see them.

Graham

In terms of metallic paints, here is a quick article about the Alclad metal paints:

http://www.swannysmodels.com/Alclad.html

I think the tips here should apply to other metal-type paints.

This kit was just confirmed to be a fall release. Price TBD.

http://ngeekhiong.blogspot.com/2010/05/mg-musha-gundam-mk-ii-others-from.html

Towards the bottom of the page.

HI all,

COOL! Thanx for the pic n info... Really hope they make this......

For the clear parts, stay away from the types of glue that melt the plastic to bond it. I would try 5-minute epoxy or contact cement.

I've got some. I just thought it'd be risky to use on a "toy" that I plan to transform/"play" with. I don't actually do much playing though. Mostly just posing it on the mightyblock (I think that's what it's called) stand that I have and the occasional transformation. I suppose I could test it.

Whatever glue you use, make sure you test it on some sprue first. I had horrible experiences with Bandai's ABS plastic and the Humbrol liquid cement. It would dissolve the plastic like no one's business, making the ABS extremely brittle. The ABS parts literally fell apart in my hands.

Thanks David!

As for plastic, the box says ABS, POM on the outside. I've always seen this on the details of HLJ's ordering page (I think that's where I've seen it) but didn't know that was straight from Yamato. So yeah, I'm guessing the ABS is the majority of hte kit and that (possibly) the purple tinted plastic is the POM. Either way, it looks like Plastic Weld is what I'll be looking for. Although, given how hard it is to find anything here in Australia that's common in the States, I might be looking for something not made by Plastruct. I asked the hobby store guy the other day what he'd recommend for ABS and he said there's some sort of Testors product, also in a glass bottle. He was out but said the main ingredient was MEK (nasty stuff). Perhaps that's going to be the ingredient to look for.

This site has scans of most of the instruction booklets. Here is the link to the VF-1S/A/J:

http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10042285

Hi!

Can some one have a scan of the VF-1 S/A instructions specially the paint and decals pages.

Thanks

I hate to mention this but the VF-25G should be SMS003 not SMS007. Otherwise, it is looking good.

If you have an airbrush, there is a company called Polly that makes a water based clear coat in flat, satin and gloss finishes. A bottle costs ~$4 CDN. I think they were made for model railroad building so I am not sure about the durability. My LHS is primarily into the railroads so they have an amazing selection of colors.

They are calling this thing an "Atmospheric" unit. How can covering up your leading edges on the wings make this an "atmospheric" unit? Why would something designed to look like a airplane need an "atmospheric" unit? Put all the boosters you want for a space configuration, but I would hope that the people who designed the plane version of this thing would have considered "atmospheric" flight when they designed the thing.

Epic fail...or just another excuse to sell more models.

Hi guys,

What you are seeing is the Laquer overcoat reacting to the paint underneath. You cannot paint lacquers over anything other than bare plastic or other lacquers because lacquers etch the surface they are painted over.

For overcoats, you should stick with acryilics whenever possible.

One thing to keep in mind about clear coats. It seems that Japan has banned the export of spray cans so Mr Hobby and some of the other brands may be more difficult to get outside of Japan in the future. Keep this in mind, because it would suck to have to try to change clear coats mid-model.

Yes he has a site, but he does not list everything on there. I think these were from his personal collection but he was will to part with the sitting figure. He is a huge Gundam model builder. His shop deals mostly in Anime rentals and manga sales. He told me the model business is tanking, partly do to the exchange rate and mostly due to customer laziness (my words, not his).

Interesting, I wonder if the creator has been selling some kits through a hobby shop, your location says you are in Canada.

Does the shop have a website and did they offer any other Macross kits by a certain kit maker?

Looks like it. I don't think they were recasts though. I looked through the package and the heat pressed face shield was still there. Most recasters don't do those. The box had something about Moscato or something. I have not been on this forum so long so I am not familiar with Cap'n's work.

I was in a local shop today and he had 2 1/72 Zentraedi resin figures for sale. The standing one he may keep, but he has one designed to fit in the cockpit of a 1/72 battle pod. He did not quote me a price but I offered to post something on this site to see if anyone is interested. PM me and I will give you the guys contact information.

I am in way profiting from this, just trying to help out a local merchant and the fan community.

Thanks,

Looks like Queadluun-Rea Klein Klan's Unit is a September release.

Wonder if it will come with removable pilot?

Nice work, great update.

Based on the number of replies these updates generated in less than 24 hrs, I guess lots of people are watching this one.

beautiful! I had dreams of kit bashing a Bandai 1/72 variable kit with Hasegawa's static models. But with the rising Yen price, that dream became a bit prohibitive. ($45 CDN for the Bandai kit, plus another $36 CDN for the Hasegawa)

In case anyone had any doubts, here is the link to Hasegawa's site: http://www.hasegawa-model.co.jp/2009sh/MACROS.html

Looks like the kit will be revealed to the public at this year's Shizuoka hobby show happening from May 14-17th.

I hope they are jumping into the 1/48 market. I have been waiting for this since they released the VF-1 in 1/72 originally. I always preferred the 1/48 scale for military aircraft. The level of detail is much better than 1/72. Or course, now I can just sit back and wait for 1/32...

I am not sure if this has been posted before but this guy build a transforming Valkyrie in lego:

http://kaisun1192.blog121.fc2.com/blog-entry-933.html

I've got a friend going to Japan for 3 weeks at the end of February. Hope he can find me one.

For those of you who want a completed kit and have money to burn:

http://www.gundampro.com/macross_vf25s_ozuma_custom.php

Yes. Don't do it.

From what I know, you should use Future mixed with Tamiya Clear Flat or Gunze's "Topcoat".

Agreed, don't use the Testor Dullcote. It will cause your acrylic paints to do the Orange peel thing. I have head that you cannot mix Tamiya and Future. Tamiya flat base should be OK.

OK, are some general guidelines regarding model paints. There are 3 types of paint available for modelers: Lacquer based, acrylic based, and enamel based.

* Lacquers should only be applied on top of the bare plastic or other lacquer paints. They will react with other types of paints. They are also very runny so they should only be applied with either a spray can or an airbrush. Paints like Mr. Color, Mr Surfacer, and the Krylon are examples of lacquer paints. They are toxic.

* Enamel paints can be applied over lacquers without problems. Large coats over acrylic can be problematic. Most modelers use thinned enamels to do panel lines because the thinner to clean up will not react to other paint types. Enamel paints have great metallic colors and hand brush nicely and dries slowly so you can even out coats better.

* Acrylic paints can be painted on top of anything. They can be thinned by water and have nice flat finishes. They fall somewhere between Enamels and Lacquers in terms of drying time.

Note that you cannot, under any circumstances, mix any combination of enamel, acrylic and lacquer paint. Also watch out for some clear coats because they may be lacquer based. Acrylic based finishes are best, but they are not as tough as the others.

I would recommend finding a technique that works best for you on cheap disposable kits before tackling your masterpiece.

EDIT:

Forgot to add that some paints may react to some plastic types. I have heard reports that Bandai's ABS parts become brittle after painting with Tamiya acrylic paints, even though these are considered the safest paints. Primed parts did not suffer this. I have not confirmed this myself but it is a cause for concern, especially with the Macross Frontier kits.