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007-vf1

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Posts posted by 007-vf1

  1. I also agree these sort of topics have to be pinned if they have links and reference points for newbies and experience builders that can benefit from the information...

    I would advice with any new endeavor like this to start small... or even big would be fine as long as you are able to live with your creation even if you happen to destroy it in the end. There's no way to acomplish your end goal and acquire experience unless you take the first step even if the result is failure.. keep in mind the time and monetary investment in it.

    Having 3 scratchbuild and modification projects that has been in the backburner for years I can tell some jobs are not simple...

    I would add this to the tool lists;

    Clothes or paper pins/clips to hold parts for glueing or painting.

    Wires and small metal and plastic tubing of different gauges and strengths.

    Soft trasparent plastic toy box encasings that I use to make windows and such.

    Save discarded spruce parts as greebles for future scratchbuilding parts.

    Glass and plastics jars/containers that can be used for mixing paints and also to safeguard small pieces.

    Set of different exacto blades.

    Paper; just regular plain white paper for drawing, scketching and also soft paper towels for drying and such.

  2. Personally, I don't think that the DYRL color scheme gets enough love.

    There'a a lot DYRL love laking in general except for the VF's valks and the SDF-1.

    To me the dark Green/ Blue is more menacing "true to life" shade that would go great in a metal mecha than the almost puke lime version from Toynami..

    The ambiguity in the DYRL movie colors is that Regults only shows in space fight for a brief period in a dark background; not even the valks are quite "white" in those scenes.. So the interpretation of colors even in the movie has a pretty wide marging..

    post-104-0-49580000-1439502326_thumb.jpg

    Know what I mean..?

  3. I have them all, but those are on my computer back in home and I will be out for 2 months. As soon as I have the chance I will post them here.

    Dude..!! that's awesome.. Been looking for those a long time..

    Thanks a lot

  4. post-104-0-28912300-1439347305_thumb.jpg

    Where I am so far with my regults. Yes; 5 of them, plus the Glaug.. Preshading and base coat....

    But now I am thinking on making it a different shade; more in the realm of the greenish DYRL.

    I have been looking for bigger and better pictures of this regult I found pictures of a while back on the web.

    post-104-0-36917200-1439347857.jpg

  5. That would be impossible to have the same level of detail, but I can have a look and make one available in WSF material from shapeways if the quality is sufficient for your need

    Awesome... I wouldn't need it to be extremely detailed. I would sand the parts, graph the panel lines and add greeblies to it if that was necessary. I would like the bulk of the model and correct proportions mainly.

    If something like that was possible with the M+ drone it would also be superb..

  6. The the club is local to you and the members suggested Tamiya cement to you, why not ask them where they get it? Here is a great video for using Tamiya's Extra thin cement to help eliminate seam lines with minimal sanding.

    I think practicing this technique would be a very good idea for you since you are just starting out.

    That's a good video... Keep in mind there are exception where the plastic piece warps or even they don't quite "fit" and they do need putty nonetheless. Specially on Resin pieces you might encounter later on.

  7. That moment when you just successfully cut off all the tiny delicate pointy parts off the sprue and then knock over your bottle of Ambroid Pro-weld right onto all said tiny parts on your work pad at which point instantly starts melting the s*itty 30 year old plastic and bonding it to your work pad. Yeh. Well, I thought there was perhaps a hope in hell for this kit....now....it won't be as pretty as it might have been.

    Battle damage..Dimensional Fold gone bad... Protodeviln fart destruction... There's always a way to apply a personal, liberal interpretation of the events ;) , so finish that kit..

    I wouldn't cut the spruce piece at once with an exacto blade. Do you know the tecnique to cut brass or copper tubing while rolling the tube and pressing it evenly with the xacto? It could be worth trying to roll the cannon the same way..

  8. Does anyone have a clear picture of these guys regult?

    I am digging the green color scheme but the original web post pictures have been erased so I have no ways to find them online..

  9. For sale Some of my left over Macross models built and original in box for any takers

    I also have old first edition hasegawa VF-1 fighter models A-J's at $30

    FREE Shipping in the contineltal US included

    Send me a PM with any questions

    Imaii 1/200 Monster built and painted - $110

    post-104-0-15719200-1435341958_thumb.jpg

    post-104-0-11889300-1435342284_thumb.jpg

    1/4000 DYRL SDF-1 as pictured. I believe is a YS recasted knock off from back in the days - $110

    post-104-0-89849400-1435342322_thumb.jpg

    DYRL movie picture book set plus collectible "archaic" model book from the 80's - $45

    post-104-0-78678700-1435342487_thumb.jpg

    Robotech the role playing game & Invid invasion book sets by KS - $35

    post-104-0-28467800-1435342658_thumb.jpg

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