Jump to content

Motorized 1/72 VF-1 Ranger and Launch Arm Completed


arbit

Recommended Posts

I'm pinning the final video at the top. WIP follows.

I've been working on this for a while on the Workbench, and since it has passed a reasonable stage, I thought I would give it its own thread.

This is also a call out for help to finalize, because I need to find really small limit switches that are Normally Closed  (Edit: This has been solved with an Arduino sketch and instructions attached further down). I found small limit switches based on a similar project by DorobouHige, but they turned out to be Normally Open, which does not work in my wiring diagram for reversing a DC motor with limit switches.

This is what the limit switches I have look like (9x5.5x2mm ). I believe they may be available in Japanese electronics stores with Normally Closed options. Larger "micro" switches wont fit in the Valk. Any help solving this would be greatly appreciated.

s-l1600.thumb.jpg.9491bd289bb7177278b6e32cc96264ad.jpg

5a4516d2bb9f3_MechtechSchematic-DPDT-Plus-Snap-Action-Switches-For-User-Control-With-Limit-Stop.gif.9dc77c86720c1912be2c9e0f1ebe8842.gif

Edited by arbit
Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 hours ago, NZEOD said:

that's servo controlled though.

 

Yeah, he needs to slow down that servo to make it look cooler.

But not clear if the servo would fit underneath.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, Urashiman said:

Okay, I think I got it now. I'll send you the explaination via PN.

Thanks Urashiman. I will test shortly and let you know how it goes. It's great to have electronics geniuses on the boards!

For everyone's benefit, this is a circuit to reverse the motor with NO limit switches. 

Urashiman has been kindly trying to solve this problem, since really small limit switches seem to only come NO, as opposed to NC as required in the typical reversing circuit displayed previously.

Edited by arbit
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice work so far, I like how you've integrated your system inside such as small space.  Not sure if there is any way to reduce the noise, whether it's the motor or the gears.  Although the final assembly and enclosure will help alleviate it somewhat.  The method used with the 1/48 is interesting in that the movement is more fluid/advanced, but just look at the size of the unit barely visible underneath.  While it's high tech, it seems quite large and impossible to place inside the 1/48.  He found a method, whereas your project seems much more feasible.  Good luck and looking forward to updates.

At the current rate of technological advancement, I bet we'll see actual transformable valkyrie toys in our lifetime should there be an interest in the future.  We already have large scale cars and a valkyrie that have limited transformation.  B))

Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 minutes ago, ChristopherB said:

Nice work so far, I like how you've integrated your system inside such as small space.  Not sure if there is any way to reduce the noise, whether it's the motor or the gears.

Thanks! The noise is from the motor and some vibration... the gears don't make any noise at all. I can speed up the motor with a higher voltage.

I am doing my best to keep all parts hidden with a clean valkyrie on the outside, but given the tight space, I am willing to sacrifice a bit if necessary.

5a3e3da3d7049_2017-12-2315_17_43.thumb.jpg.de81a8ae6c4c426d77eb3f0e50499d47.jpg5a3d428074140_2017-12-2219_24_05.thumb.jpg.494ea06f595ac474b8c6af75c5e4a464.jpg5a3d40b4f00af_2017-12-2219_24_16.thumb.jpg.015944303f9812f2d9e4a26a3bba7ded.jpg5a3d3e6d88f3c_2017-12-2219_27_57.thumb.jpg.57139e16105a031f02653fa6bd305e0e.jpg5a3d3e60667d3_2017-12-2219_27_20.thumb.jpg.7a1ed1fef793964e2336872bf926ceca.jpg5a3d3e5200f9a_2017-12-2220_02_01.thumb.jpg.c5005205d7b8a8c03685cfdf8a04a667.jpg5a3d3e44d8983_2017-12-2220_02_13.thumb.jpg.794b8e2abd94e537a6d64d77017874f0.jpg5a3aef417293a_2017-12-2103_08_21.thumb.jpg.64e29e1b393c94bc39d594c6f3cf3341.jpg

Edited by arbit
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
17 hours ago, big F said:

This is excellent work so far, I have often wondered if one could motorise parts of one of these kits, although I was thinking a 1/48 scale might be the way to go.

Thanks. I didn't think it would work either.

Now that we have solved most of the wiring issues, I have ordered a new motor from gizmoszone which I hope will be quieter.

Final gear set up complete. I added some screws to lock the arms on the body, and a track for the gear to run, for sideways display on a launch arm.

5a61ddacb39c7_2018-01-1915_43_15.thumb.jpg.68883ba5ca83c5687043f6c6a45a49f1.jpg5a61ddb653471_2018-01-1915_46_16.thumb.jpg.cda6dfe129ad15035ec8ea8741a0f2e0.jpg

Edited by arbit
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've found a second solution for reversing the motor with a momentary push of a limit switch. This approach is with Arduino. The sketch is attached for anyone interested. This uses the exact same set up as shown here on Adafruits site with the L293D motor driver. Only the sketch is different.

You can use two limit switches in parallel for up and down limits. I am working on an update to this with a built-in counter so you can blink lights, move the motor once or twice, then go on with more blinking.

For this project, I prefer Urashiman's circuit, because the Arduino approach will take up too many pins.

Motor_Reverse_with_Switch.ino

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is my second priority after the motor. I've used 0402 SMDs in parallel, with liquid electrical tape to minimize space. Cant wire them in serial because 5v is not enough for three. Plus if one goes out, I don't want all three to go out in serial. Should be safe :ph34r: since they are the same type, and with a 100 Ohm resistor, double the requirement, for added security.

I would prefer to control the wing light and the two warning lights separately, but I need to reduce wires for movement. 

I'm planning a Low Vis scheme. Black primer with gray on top. The black primer will doubly serve to occlude some light seepage. Any suggestions for the mix for the gray? 

5a64ed492e4c2_2018-01-2015_29_00.thumb.jpg.413830e868d0ff946e255d42f047e59c.jpg5a64ed363ccd1_2018-01-2123_32_08.thumb.jpg.538d496397853aaf8c9cb5649afb85e3.jpg

Edited by arbit
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks RTKF. There is really no magic here. The issue is that I am learning on the job. I also had some experience with this type of gear on my Nautilus build, which I micronized further here. For any knowledgeable person, the wiring would be a breeze. But as I am trying to teach my kids, you can do anything if you put your mind to it.

I will take any combo of recommendations for the Low Viz scheme, just as long as the primer is black. One layer for the gray and done, given my skill level. I like the blue shade in the 1/60 Yamato, but it's a bit too much blue.

I use Vallejo Air paints (I know, Tamiya is better, don't kill me, I am not a good painter or very artistic). 

Edited by arbit
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Got the left wing up. 

5a672c92df6ce_2018-01-2316_25_21.thumb.jpg.fdf1c9758ee26067562abaa07dadd18a.jpg

5a6735d6243d0_2018-01-2316_30_52.thumb.jpg.8d3db94456997ed875574edd18faa316.jpg

I'm using screws to seal the body, in case I ever need to open it. The screws don't stress the plastic, they connect to bolts on the opposite end.

Now I need to figure out how to attach the backpack and super parts without glue. Maybe magnets. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 23.1.2018 at 2:23 PM, arbit said:

Got the left wing up. 

5a672c92df6ce_2018-01-2316_25_21.thumb.jpg.fdf1c9758ee26067562abaa07dadd18a.jpg

5a6735d6243d0_2018-01-2316_30_52.thumb.jpg.8d3db94456997ed875574edd18faa316.jpg

I'm using screws to seal the body, in case I ever need to open it. The screws don't stress the plastic, they connect to bolts on the opposite end.

Now I need to figure out how to attach the backpack and super parts without glue. Maybe magnets. 

Hehe, I like the blue and red LEDs on the wings. Want to make them blink like on real planes?

 

Edit:

And yes - Magnet should be the best to accomplish this. My Warhammer player buddies do this with their tanks to change equipment. If you get high power magnets this will work good. :D

Edited by Urashiman
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 24/01/2018 at 2:23 AM, arbit said:

Got the left wing up. 

5a672c92df6ce_2018-01-2316_25_21.thumb.jpg.fdf1c9758ee26067562abaa07dadd18a.jpg

5a6735d6243d0_2018-01-2316_30_52.thumb.jpg.8d3db94456997ed875574edd18faa316.jpg

I'm using screws to seal the body, in case I ever need to open it. The screws don't stress the plastic, they connect to bolts on the opposite end.

Now I need to figure out how to attach the backpack and super parts without glue. Maybe magnets. 

Definitely magnets. And it's fun fighting the tiny buggers when you go to mount the second one and the magnetic field from the first one keeps attracting it or causing it to flip

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, NZEOD said:

Definitely magnets. And it's fun fighting the tiny buggers when you go to mount the second one and the magnetic field from the first one keeps attracting it or causing it to flip

Hah! Seen that before... Maybe one at a time then. I'm also considering screws for that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've decided on screws for the backpack. It needs to carry the weight of the entire valk and elctronics sideways on the launch arm, so magnets wont cut it.

I need to replace the pan head screws with flat heads, then some thin pla plate to conceal the screws, and we will call it "custom panel detail".

5a6c8d13ec058_2018-01-2718_17_45.thumb.jpg.e7eab593b6911e581c4e32197f3a73c4.jpg5a6c8d207ffe6_2018-01-2718_16_30.thumb.jpg.3e6a4f05f843772dad88cfabdc31eab6.jpg

Edited by arbit
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Fitting limit switches. I decided to go below the gears, rather than on top, to save space for all the wires up there.

5a6cad30aca0e_2018-01-2720_35_26.thumb.jpg.5ecf3ab7c733c4c94d18baa2714a2849.jpg

5a6cb5b96a9d0_2018-01-2720_37_08.thumb.jpg.d91a17f8b5b22eabe7529ce71bcac81a.jpg

Edited by arbit
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I got Jasmine Models cockpit photo etch for the cockpit lighting; I was hoping that the side panels would have holes in them for the light to go through, but they turned out to be solid and wont backlight. One option is to scan and print them on plastic sheet. I have scanned and printed on plastic sheets before, but the resolution is no-where-near good enough to capture that small detail. Another option is to scan and print them as decals on a lightbox.

1.jpg.38a671120c770cc049b4aec5e4963563.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Mechtech! 

Got the cockpit closed up. This is my take on the DeAgostini Falcon.

It has 4x leds squished inside, including 3x RGB SMD Neopixels, chained on just one set of wires for space.

5a808393320f4_2018-02-0113_49_26.jpg.b4289f537e22925422a1f15d5f432fbc.jpg20180203_160754.jpg.7aea49a510686d317cb21ef67e1cac08.jpg

Edited by arbit
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 2/4/2018 at 10:08 PM, big F said:

Now youve done it...

Next up landing gear.

Got the engines going this week. And after I made such nice little light boxes for the landing gears, I managed to put the red and blue on the wrong side :vava::vava:!!!  I knew there was something fishy going on with those little things. There ain't no going back now...

Edit: Going back to change them... Fortunately I was able to pop them off and switch them without splitting the leg.

5a80847113eb1_2018-02-1121_39_24.jpg.e54e26f98706df960b28449094346d18.jpg5a80847d1399c_2018-02-1121_39_48.jpg.9d400bbbe9bf0215b05db3cc98200065.jpg5a8084652ae5c_2018-02-1017_10_43.jpg.4bb35b162fb4a8b3df493f3501f2ff42.jpg

Edited by arbit
Link to comment
Share on other sites

AWESOME LED work Arbit! the cockpit especially. It looks like you swapped out motors for the wing sweep? It looks looks like too much blinking in the engines, but I know you're experimenting with the coding still. This project is top notch! - MT

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 2/12/2018 at 1:21 PM, Graham said:

How difficult would it be to incorporate moving feet to simulate thrust vectoring?

That would be awesome. Maybe Mechtech can do it in the 1/20 scale. I'm sure someone will make that thing fly like this:

 

Edited by arbit
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 2/11/2018 at 10:25 PM, MechTech said:

AWESOME LED work Arbit! the cockpit especially. It looks like you swapped out motors for the wing sweep? It looks looks like too much blinking in the engines, but I know you're experimenting with the coding still. This project is top notch! - MT

Thanks Mechtech! Of course you got me into motors in the first place.  Hope it comes together in the end.

I'm sticking with the same motor. I found out that the noise is from the vibration rattling the plastic. I think once it's epoxied down it will improve. If you can believe it, the 5v Gizmoszone motors are too long for the space, plus I don't like their wobble.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Super Parts and Engines are up with some new coding I learned. Let me know if anyone has suggestions for a different color sequence.

Putting it together was a royal pain due to all the parts.

5a8cb96113636_2018-02-1901_18_28.thumb.jpg.7af5a2cf41e4a007f6a457ba1f191e08.jpg

 

Edited by arbit
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...