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no3Ljm

My Road To My Own Premium Finish Valkyires

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That is one impressive looking VF-0S, the grey No-Steps blend in perfectly. 

Arcadia, are we seeing this? (Hint, hint) 

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35 minutes ago, chyll2 said:

really beautiful work

Thanks chyll2! ^_^

26 minutes ago, 505thAirborne said:

That is one impressive looking VF-0S, the grey No-Steps blend in perfectly. 

Arcadia, are we seeing this? (Hint, hint) 

Thanks 505thAirborne! ;) I really do like the grey colored No Step on the VF-0S. Though IMHO it's kinda light for my taste. But it's not a biggie. ^_^

 

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Must say am liking the low-viz no step markings! ;) 

Cant say for sure if it changes the overall look of the valk in its entirety?

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9 hours ago, no3Ljm said:

Here's some updates on my VF-0S. Once I'm done using the grey colored NO STEP markings on the VF-0, I'll use the remaining red colored NO STEP from the VF-0 decal sheet to continue in my VF-1S. ^_^

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Looks great! Glad they spelled NO STEP correctly on the 0 decals! :D

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The VF-0s is stunning, I wonder how much benefit would gain a Vf-0A, considering this later one is really naked compared to the 0S

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16 hours ago, sumyumgoy said:

Looks great!  Are you planning on taking it apart to apply the clear coat?

Yes, I'm going to topcoat it after applying panel lines to it. But sad to say, the VF-0's is not like the VF-1's that you can take the legs off from the tight joint easily without snapping some plastics and unscrewing the screws. :unsure:

11 hours ago, Lolicon said:

Looks great! Glad they spelled NO STEP correctly on the 0 decals! :D

Yes they did! ;)

 

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Great thread Noel!

I missed it before (being away for a large part of the summer) but I too am looking for those white fast/super pack stenciling for the 1/60 toys.  Its great that you told us that unfortunately what I was looking for is incorrect on those decal sheets.  If you do find any alternatives do let us know.

I did laser print all the other markings onto decal film scaled up from Hasegawa decal scans and they worked great (as long as you are applying them onto a light coloured background)

As for the super thin panel lines, they are too shallow to hold a wash, however I've used a really sharp mechanical pencil (the 2mm kind with the rotary shapener) and it just falls into the crevices/panel lines nicely (if you make a mistake, you can use an eraser).  Then once its sealed under the top coat its fine, plus its a nice grey so its not too dark.

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43 minutes ago, wm cheng said:

Great thread Noel!

I missed it before (being away for a large part of the summer) but I too am looking for those white fast/super pack stenciling for the 1/60 toys.  Its great that you told us that unfortunately what I was looking for is incorrect on those decal sheets.  If you do find any alternatives do let us know.

I did laser print all the other markings onto decal film scaled up from Hasegawa decal scans and they worked great (as long as you are applying them onto a light coloured background)

As for the super thin panel lines, they are too shallow to hold a wash, however I've used a really sharp mechanical pencil (the 2mm kind with the rotary shapener) and it just falls into the crevices/panel lines nicely (if you make a mistake, you can use an eraser).  Then once its sealed under the top coat its fine, plus its a nice grey so its not too dark.

Thanks Mr. Cheng! Yeah, too bad some of the markings that came with the one that I bought on eBay is mispelled. Good thing I didn't use the NO STEP red markings from the VF-0S. Now I have something to use for the VF-1S. ;)

And yes, I totally agree on the panel lines. They're too shallow. I was thinking of applying it with Flory's Panel wash but I haven't yet. Hopefully after the decals. The only area that I need to apply on the VF-0S is the top part of the chest and bottom legs in fighter mode. :)

 

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Noel, you are doing some impressive work here, both on the VF-1S and VF-0S. Glad you have the time and patience -- I don't think I would.

It's making me want to get a VF-0S, if the prices weren't so incredibly high.

 

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1 hour ago, ScrambledValkyrie said:

Noel, you are doing some impressive work here, both on the VF-1S and VF-0S. Glad you have the time and patience -- I don't think I would.

It's making me want to get a VF-0S, if the prices weren't so incredibly high.

Thank you sir! Though lately I can't find some time of doing it. Been busy at work for these last couple of months. Hopefully starting this weekend I can continue the VF-0S. ^_^

 

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Hey Noel

After looking some more, actually Arcadia has some of the fast/super/strike packs labelled wrong in their sticker sheet and even on their Premium Finish models.  They lack the Hasegawa's designation "HMMP-02" for the forward missile section and the "RO-X24" for the strike cannons  - so those ebay waterslide decals merely copied Yamato/Arcadia's mistake.   I guess Hasegawa isn't really cannon either as they were never in any art books till the models came out.  So do you want to emulate the Premium Finish toys with the mistake or try to correct them (or maybe just do our own thing)?

The trick is can anyone help us purchase another Hasegawa 1/72 VF-1S Strike decals only in Japan and send those to us?

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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, wm cheng said:

Hey Noel

After looking some more, actually Arcadia has some of the fast/super/strike packs labelled wrong in their sticker sheet and even on their Premium Finish models.  They lack the Hasegawa's designation "HMMP-02" for the forward missile section and the "RO-X24" for the strike cannons  - so those ebay waterslide decals merely copied Yamato/Arcadia's mistake.   I guess Hasegawa isn't really cannon either as they were never in any art books till the models came out.  So do you want to emulate the Premium Finish toys with the mistake or try to correct them (or maybe just do our own thing)?

The trick is can anyone help us purchase another Hasegawa 1/72 VF-1S Strike decals only in Japan and send those to us?

Hey Mr.Cheng. I guess like I posted in your decal thread earlier, I'm kind of doing this my own thing since I'm mixing what it goes based on the instruction manual and adding some decal here and there based on the Master File books. But I just stopped since the Super Packs is not correct. I really don't mind if it's not correct as long that all of them should somehow have different designations rather than all of them have the same labeling as NP-001 or something.

So is Hasegawa somehow more correct with designations? If so, I might try and buy those 1/72 over eBay soon and see how it goes.

As for the Hasegawa VF-1S Strike you're referring to, is that the one for Battroid or  for Fighter?

 

Edited by no3Ljm

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It looks like the Hasegawa ones are more correct, but the eBay 1/72 reproductions all lack the strike cannon's "RO-X24" designation because they just reproduced the VF-1A Super decal sheets even though the listing in eBay says they are VF-1S Strike.  It doesn't really matter whether its for the Battroid or Fighter since we're just really looking for the fast/strike packs which are on both modes - but all I can find on eBay are the Battroid decals - I couldn't find any Fighter mode.

 

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4 minutes ago, wm cheng said:

It looks like the Hasegawa ones are more correct, but the eBay 1/72 reproductions all lack the strike cannon's "RO-X24" designation because they just reproduced the VF-1A Super decal sheets even though the listing in eBay says they are VF-1S Strike.  It doesn't really matter whether its for the Battroid or Fighter since we're just really looking for the fast/strike packs which are on both modes - but all I can find on eBay are the Battroid decals - I couldn't find any Fighter mode.

I see. Thanks for that info. I do have that old Hasegawa 1/72 VF-1S Strike Battroid from before but it's in the Philippines. I will try to ask my sister when she have time to have it scan so I can compare.

 

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On ‎7‎/‎24‎/‎2017 at 2:36 AM, no3Ljm said:

This weekend I started applying those VF-1 waterslide decals that I bought from eBay weeks ago. I also tested my Airbrush set which I bought 4 years ago from Amazon. And to be honest, this is the first time I airbrush. I tested the airbrush for topcoating and so far I really like the outcome from the scrap kits that I have. ^_^

Anyways, I noticed that the graphics on the waterslide decals that I'm using is somehow thicker than the one supplied by Arcadia on their stand-alone 1/60 VF-1S Hikaru release (12/2013), the one that came with a stand. But I still decided to use that one since I'm also going to apply the waterslide decals that I purchased for the VF-0S too. Just to make it consistent. Besides, there's none that came with the VF-0S. So that's fine for me.

I'm also planning on adding some panel lines into it once the Flory Models washes arrives.

So hopefully, I'll try my best to update this thread once I finish applying decals parts by parts.

Note: Mods, sorry if I put this in the wrong section. But since it's just applying decals on a toy, I thought it's just safe to put it here. But feel free to move it to the proper section if ever. Thanks! ;)

 

So, without further ado, here it is.

 

Here's the finished legs from this weekend (7/23/17). And to be honest, applying decals on these two legs already took me 2 hours.

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That micoset solution you used to seal your waterslide decals, can it be used on dry transfer decals?

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5 minutes ago, VF-18S Hornet said:

That micoset solution you used to seal your waterslide decals, can it be used on dry transfer decals?

NO!  Microset is used to soften waterslide decals only (its not a sealant)  The Future (floor polish) topcoat sprayed over top after all the decals are applied and provides a hard clear acrylic gloss coat over the decals and it would work for dry transfer as well.  Don't use Microset or MicroSOL for dry transfer, my guess is it would dissolve the transfer.

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1 hour ago, VF-18S Hornet said:

That micoset solution you used to seal your waterslide decals, can it be used on dry transfer decals?

MicroSet nor MicroSol is not a sealant. Don't use the MicroSet for your decal transfers MicroSet is used to help the waterslide decals to adhere more.

Though I could suggest what Warhammer community uses for sealants if you're just doing handbrushing to cover your decals. It's called Citadel Lahmian Medium (Flat) and Citadel Ardcoat (Gloss). But I'm not 100% sure that it will work on Dry Transfer Decals. You can try some that you don't use from the sheet and apply a small amount to it.

Try to search for it thru YouTube and see what other people think of it. I've watched tons of videos to understand all of it before I started this Premium Finish road. (Though I really need to continue it inspite of busy schedule. :lol: )

 

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