Anybody have a 1/72 vf-1 bandai kit to throw away? Need

[Big s]

I believe the modeling outside the box video on YouTube for polishing clear parts may be helpful.

[Gatsu]

Tread very carefully here... His answer to your question HAS been helpful AND detailed. You come across as rather demanding and less than appreciative of any help offered no matter what it is. You did the same with me wanting better scans than what I could provide of decals for your screw ups on your Wave Destroid.

I'd guess he has less patience for you than I do after reading the above demands for answers.

The floor polish is an acrylic based clear coat. So go ask at a flooring place in Europe for just that, an Acrylic based floor clear coat/polish. THAT product will be the same as Future (USA)/Krystal Klear (Aus/NZ)/Pledge (UK) and what ever they call it in Asia

Your canopy is wreaked as it is right now. Take the advise and start sanding it. Or dont. There is little more this community can do to help you with this mistake beyond all the advise you already have recieved.

Man, i never pretended you sent me anything at all but, if i remember well, you wrote you were willing to send me scans as a response to my request of help with higer resolution scans afer somebody posted a link to a web page with very low resoltution scans wich i pointed out very clearly i was not able to use to make decals. Then sending low resolution scans as the ones posted before looked at least "uncaring" by you (nzeod you said they were 300 dpi but what i downloaded was a mere 558x800 pixels image), BUT i know you probably did it without intention because you probably didn t read the previous posts and in fact i never blamed or criticized you, i only wrote "These images resolution is even lower than that posted by no3ljm. " that's all. Now, if such a response justifies in your opinion the choice of blocking any private message from a user you previously said you were willing to help, well, then we really have a totally different idea of what such words as "friendliness", "helping", and "offense" mean, and we probably live in two totally different worlds. Always i hope you understand that my mother language is not english and i m not able to write using the perfectly corrected language formulas of netiquette as you probably are used to do in the respectable anglo-saxon world. Sorry.

P.S. Please illustrate how and when might i ve been "less than appreciative of ANY help offered no matter what it is" and explain clearly what do you mean for an appreciative attitude. Do notice anyway that the thread was wrote asking for a replacement part and nobody responded about it, i did appreciate the suggestions anyway, but as you are doing to me a trial i need to point it out.

Edited July 29, 2016 by Gatsu

[NZEOD]

Thats why I said I had to email the bigger ones which were 2Mb each. Which you got.

Claiming a gy has blocked you and not responded with answers when he already gave answers in plenty of detail it being unappreciative.

Mentioning you spent money on buying stuff to fix the problem and so he should provide you with more answers or its his fault you wasted money... is ungrateful.

YOu complained about low qual scans and I said thats all photobucket would allow. To get the higher detail versions youd need to get them emialed. I did that. YOu complained.

Maybe you'd rather no one bothered to respond at all?

To fix the canopy, you need to sit down and start sanding it. First with a 1200 grit wet and dry sanded wet, very wet, then down to finer grades until you get to polishing pastes, as stated already.

It will take hours... a few nights in front of the TV with a towel and a bowl of water.

There is no quick fix.

WHEN you have actually tried that, not thought about it, but given it a go, let us know how you got on. It WILL work, just not as quickly as you wreaked it in the first place.

Edited July 30, 2016 by NZEOD

[pengbuzz]

Gatsu, I gave you all the info you need. I'm not going to make any further replies in this topic, as I am not someone who responds well to "demands".

Don't test my patience.

[NZEOD]

Ok... I took a piece of Clear styrene, chemically burnt it... Acetone is great for ruining good canopies and spent the morning sanding it all back.

So far so good, its working. The catch is though... you will start to lose the definition between the canopy frame and the area that should remain clear. But at 1/72 a crisp paintline for the frame can disguise that.

[Gatsu]

well. I do not accept you use menacing words like "Tread very carefully here" or "Don't test my patience." i never used such tones with you.

"Thats why I said I had to email the bigger ones which were 2Mb each. Which you got."

i stopped to follow the thread before you wrote about your problem with photobucket. That said you are clearly angry for something about our private conversation. Taking a private conversation issue in a pubblic thread is not correct but since you did i'll copy the message (wich was in response to your email) that probably triggered your 'hostility' : "ok thanks. i finished the kit anyway because you haven t given any response for weeks, but i'll try maybe in the future".... uhm, wow this is really offensive!

"Claiming a gy has blocked you and not responded with answers when he already gave answers in plenty of detail it being unappreciative."

Yes this was the only thing that was truly unappreciative. I thought he was not following anymore my thread and that's why i quoted him 2 times but discovering that he was following my thread and not responding deliberately while i was having problems following his suggestions (which were not requested by me as my thread was for a replament part) makes me kind of unappreciative.

"Mentioning you spent money on buying stuff to fix the problem and so he should provide you with more answers or its his fault you wasted money... is ungrateful."

I mentioned the fact i spent money just to make him notice i was truly in need for his attention, and no, i never said that it was his fault if i wasted money. Anyway i must say that there were NO sandind films out there in the web exept the Testors which were 300 coarse fine, and what was similar to what he talked about was called "lapping films" and was quite scarce everywhere. So, no i don't think he was really detailed and accurate, not enough that i could not have any need to disturb him with further annoying questions wich he evidently considered inopportune to his person.

"YOu complained about low qual scans and I said thats all photobucket would allow. To get the higher detail versions youd need to get them emialed. I did that. YOu complained."

i never complained, you are crazy.

"Maybe you'd rather no one bothered to respond at all?"

You said i was unappreciative to any suggestion received, this is FALSE as i was unappreciative only to pingbuzz after i noticed he was following the thread ignoring my requests of help and blocked me.

If i decide to help an old lady to cross the street i don t leave her in the middle of the street and run away because i already did more than what i was compelled to do, especially if i offered my help on my own initiative to her.

About the rest you wrote: i tried to sand with the lapping films i bought but the internal part of the canopy is too small and too concave and there is no way to sand it properly with such films wich are anyway too stiff. Maybe the abrasive paste from tamiya is the only way to sand it.... i was able to find in a small store the tamiya wax and this already helped, but the canopy is not yet as new, unluckily.

i also tried the toothpaste but obtained no results at all.

Now i m tired to responde to you, writing responses to such irritable persons is difficult to me as i need to waste a lot of time to find the right words to use.

Edited August 2, 2016 by Gatsu

[NZEOD]

We arent here to battle you.

Just go try the sanding method.

Its worked on the piece I messed up to test it on. It will work for you. It just takes time.

TO get to the inner surface use a polishing compound and a box of q-tips or what ever they call them in your end of the planet. Just change them out BEFORE the pad wears down to the plastic stick or you'll end up gouging the canopy. You may go through more than 25 of them doing this. Wet them and apply the polish and start rubbing.

As you get further along and have removed most of the haze, start reducing how hard you are pushing against the qtips. Its a bit like how we spit polish our parade boots to a mirror shine. TAKES FOREVER! Even with the illegal use of a flame.

After that dip it in the Floor Clear.

You can test the progress of the polishing by dipping the canopy in water and seeing how clear it looks when you take it out. Thats basically how it will look after the Clear is applied.

Edited August 2, 2016 by NZEOD

[Gatsu]

We arent here to battle you.

Just go try the sanding method.

Its worked on the piece I messed up to test it on. It will work for you. It just takes time.

TO get to the inner surface use a polishing compound and a box of q-tips or what ever they call them in your end of the planet. Just change them out BEFORE the pad wears down to the plastic stick or you'll end up gouging the canopy. You may go through more than 25 of them doing this. Wet them and apply the polish and start rubbing.

As you get further along and have removed most of the haze, start reducing how hard you are pushing against the qtips. Its a bit like how we spit polish our parade boots to a mirror shine. TAKES FOREVER! Even with the illegal use of a flame.

After that dip it in the Floor Clear.

You can test the progress of the polishing by dipping the canopy in water and seeing how clear it looks when you take it out. Thats basically how it will look after the Clear is applied.

ok, thank you. I ll go buy the Tamyia polishing compound, but i can not find in my country any floor wax as you describe so i ll use the Tamiya wax. I think the fine coarse compound would be ok...

Edited August 3, 2016 by Gatsu

[Big s]

Have you tried an Amazon search where you are at.

[NZEOD]

Which country are you in, I'll find it for you.

[Gatsu]

I'm in italy. But why? The Tamiya wax is done right for this uses, isn't it?

[NZEOD]

if its wax... no

you want acrylic

the floor stuff is called wax and polish but its neither. Its a water based Acrylic gloss clear coat. YOu want it because once you see how simple it is you'll NEVER use anything else. Every clear part gets dipped... literally dipped in it and left to dry. Glass smooth clear finish 24hrs later.

Models get a spray over of it after painting base coats to get a smooth finish to apply washes and decals too.

Its a life saver.

[Vifam7]

I'm in italy. But why? The Tamiya wax is done right for this uses, isn't it?

Search Tamiya Polish at Amazon Italy. This is the sanding cream.

Then search Pledge Floor Care at Amazon Italy. Get the one that says "with Future Shine" on the bottle. This is the clear coating finish.

[Gatsu]

Search Tamiya Polish at Amazon Italy. This is the sanding cream.

Then search Pledge Floor Care at Amazon Italy. Get the one that says "with Future Shine" on the bottle. This is the clear coating finish.

Look https://www.amazon.it/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?__mk_it_IT=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=Pledge+Floor+Care prices are absurd!!!

There is a Tamiya Fine compound and a Finish, which do you think i should use (i suppose i don t need the coarse one)?

Edited August 5, 2016 by Gatsu

[Gatsu]

These are the Johnson's products in Italy, it doesn t seem there is something like that.

http://www.whatsinsidescjohnson.com/it/it/brands

Edited August 6, 2016 by Gatsu

[Gatsu]

i was wondering: did maybe i use the tothpaste in a wrong way? How it is supposed to be applied and for how long? I used a toothbrush

[NZEOD]

You use it like sandpaper. Its an abrasive paste. Apply it with a cloth on the outside and the qtip on the inside. You have to rub constantly with it. Then wash it off

Edited August 7, 2016 by NZEOD

[Big s]

I've heard gel toothpaste doesn't work, but the old fashioned white is the one to use.

[Gatsu]

it was white toothpaste. Anyway, what about tamiya compound? Which one?

[NZEOD]

Yeah, White toothpaste is the one with the granules in it.

No idea on the tamiya ones, havent used them. Guessing the have a course grade which you'd use first to get off the worst marks, then a finishing or fine grade for final polishing.

[Gatsu]

I asked in an italian model building forum and they told me that the Humbrol Gloss Clear - 125ml Bottle is

the same than Future pledge... what do you think?

http://www.humbrol.com/uk-en/humbrol-gloss-clear-125ml-bottle.html

Edited September 9, 2016 by Gatsu

[NZEOD]

Looks good

[Big s]

It may need to be thinned out, but I haven't used it so I can't say for sure.

[NZEOD]

Watching the video in the link, it seems to work fine straight out of the bottle.

[Big s]

It says the substrate is acrylic and enamel. I don't know if it would be enough enamel to yellow, but hopefully not. Tamiya clear could also be used the same I would imagine.

[Gatsu]

It says the substrate is acrylic and enamel. I don't know if it would be enough enamel to yellow, but hopefully not. Tamiya clear could also be used the same I would imagine.

Tamiya clear doesn t make the surface clear and shining as it was originally, i tried at first but i had to remove it, that's why somebody suggested Future here

Seing the video it looks like it can be used in the way you use Future.. if they suggest such use on styrene pieces i suppose this won't crack it nor yellow it..

Edited September 10, 2016 by Gatsu

[NZEOD]

Just get some, make it look good, then before it gets old enough to yellow or crack up, blow the shite out of it at New Years with a .303 and some Tannerite.

And video it.

With some epic music.

[Gatsu]

Just get some, make it look good, then before it gets old enough to yellow or crack up, blow the shite out of it at New Years with a .303 and some Tannerite.

And video it.

With some epic music.

You speak as if you were sure it will yellow or crack over time... maybe also Future yellow over time...

Edited September 12, 2016 by Gatsu

[Big s]

Enamel does yellow due to the oil content, but the humbrol may not have a high enough enamel content to matter.

Future is mostly an acrylic gloss coat with water and a bit of soap mixed together. I have never seen it yellow unless the kit was left I direct sunlight for a few years.

[Gatsu]

Enamel does yellow due to the oil content, but the humbrol may not have a high enough enamel content to matter.

Future is mostly an acrylic gloss coat with water and a bit of soap mixed together. I have never seen it yellow unless the kit was left I direct sunlight for a few years.

So Future has no defects? Is it 100% safe??

[Big s]

I personally have seen no problems with future. The only issue I have had with the product has been trying to figure out what the name it's going by since it keeps changing. The last time I bought some it went under the name Pledge With Future Shine, but it may have changed again.

[Gatsu]

It says the substrate is acrylic and enamel. I don't know if it would be enough enamel to yellow, but hopefully not. Tamiya clear could also be used the same I would imagine.

Man i m quite confuse: what's the meaning of the word "substrate"?? I thought it meant that the Humbrol clear can be used OVER acrylic and enamels, so that is not any mention on what this stuff actually contain. In the video it only says it s an acrilic varnish, i don't know if the word "varnish" means that it contain some dangerous solvent for styrene though

[Big s]

Varnish is another word for a top coat. There can be a varnish for different uses like in this case for model kits. Most product will say what they are used for and may have a warning on what not to use it on.

If you have any pieces of the sprue left over you can use that to test any product you have questions about.

[Gatsu]

Varnish is another word for a top coat. There can be a varnish for different uses like in this case for model kits. Most product will say what they are used for and may have a warning on what not to use it on.

If you have any pieces of the sprue left over you can use that to test any product you have questions about.

I had styrene pieces wich broke after years because i spraied tamiya clear enamel on it. It can take years, i can't wait years or even only monthes for a test.

[NZEOD]

Man i m quite confuse: what's the meaning of the word "substrate"?? I thought it meant that the Humbrol clear can be used OVER acrylic and enamels, so that is not any mention on what this stuff actually contain. In the video it only says it s an acrilic varnish, i don't know if the word "varnish" means that it contain some dangerous solvent for styrene though

Substrate is the layer beneath... so the canopy becomes the substrate when the humbrol clear goes on. if you pull a pair of socks on, your feet becomes the substrate. If you put shoes on the socks are then the substrate.