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Bandai 1/72 Scale Transformable Macross Δ Kits


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On 2017-05-13 at 2:43 PM, Wolf-1 said:

Since Mikumo is on Roid's, Molder's would be the defacto since Messer was her original escort. Where is CHUCK MUSTANG, dammit?

Yup, I'm saving my pesos for Mustang's Siegfried!

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Just wanted to chime in with some comments about the VF-31 model kit (Hayate's colors). I don't consider myself a master builder, though I've built dozens of MG Gundams and a handful of Hasegawa Valkyries. The extent of my "customization" skill is panel-lining and small amounts of painting. This is my first Bandai transforming Macross model kit.

Building this is REALLY FUN! I'm actually AMAZED that the VF-31 kit seems to have half as many parts as the typical MG Gundam kit, yet the VF-31 transforms. Voodoo, I tell you, voodoo!

Prior to building, I did my research. I've read reviews that stated the Battroid mode doesn't hold together, parts break during transformation, etc. So I'm building very cautiously. Each time I put together a moving part, I "practice" transforming by just moving that one part in the way it needs to go to transform. In doing so, I've found several spots where the parts clearances are quite small (or nonexistent), and I've sanded them down so that the clearances are just right. It's pretty clear that, if I were to transform the kit as-is without any sanding, it's exceedingly obvious how transforming the toy would break it. I've also found some parts that come apart (in unintended ways) while moving them around (such as the various pieces that comprise a solid section of the wing), so I use some plastic cement here and there. Never on moving parts.

Anywhoo, I'm only half done with the kit so far, and I'm taking it slowly but methodically, testing the parts clearances one by one as I add them. 

And, did I mention building this is actually FUN? I do appreciate the details on an MG Gundam, but I've always found it tedious to build the inner skeleton, then some inner machinery, and then cover it all up with outer armor. For better or worse, the VF-31 kit doesn't have that layer of detail. The parts count is basically the bare minimum for just the outer appearance of the jet and/or robot, which suits me just fine. 

Building this kit is so fun, I ordered another VF-31 (Messer's colors) because, well, I want to build another one. 

At first, buying the model kit was just a cheap substitute because I can't afford the DX Chogokin VF-31. However, the model kit is so well engineered (after some sanding and cementing), I find that I don't even think of the model kit as a substitute anymore.

Edited by Lord_Of_Tetris
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12 hours ago, Lord_Of_Tetris said:

And, did I mention building this is actually FUN? I do appreciate the details on an MG Gundam, but I've always found it tedious to build the inner skeleton, then some inner machinery, and then cover it all up with outer armor. For better or worse, the VF-31 kit doesn't have that layer of detail.

Yeah, I get tired of the monotony of Gundam model design, too. I snapped a Heavyarms Kai EW and Tallgeese III just a couple days ago, and they build fine, but I agree I've had more fun putting together the various VF designs. There's more variety in the things you're building and the way you build them.

I've grown less and less enamored with internal frames over the years. Bandai continues to push that particular gimmick and yet I tend to have more fun with simpler Gundam builds like the RE/100 kits. Showing off internal detail is all well and good, but that doesn't seem to be the point of MG internal frames anymore (or ever, now I think about it).

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Heh. Me and my big mouth. One part I forgot to "practice" transforming was the part where you pull out the rear half of the jet (the part with the wings) back from the torso so you can fold it down. I just pulled it out for the first time and caused a big huge stress mark. Had I noticed this earlier, I would have definitely sanded it down. Unfortunately, I already used plastic cement to seal shut the torso, so there's no going back now.......

I'm still sticking with Plan A. I'll still handle this figure with kid gloves, of course, but I'll still transform it with a minimum of fear. If it breaks, I'll cement it together in battroid mode. I have a Messer model kit coming my way, anyway, and I'll be sure to sand down this part for that one....

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I was taking some pictures to save for later to remind myself of the correct position of all the moving parts, and I figure they work double duty as work-in-progress pictures of my build.

I'm actually really happy with this so far. 

As a reminder, I don't consider myself a master builder. All you see here are stickers (not the waterslide decals), panel-lining, and a conservative amount of sanding and plastic cement.

1.jpg

2.jpg

3.jpg

4.jpg

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Is there a head comparison of the various -31s at all? I'm thinking about picking another one of these up and debating between the various kit releases - regular J/C/F/S, J-Kai, or Super J. The itasha decals that come with the J-Kai don't interest me that much (though the paint scheme is nice), and I'm on the fence about the Super packs, though I suppose if I do want one I can just pick up the add-on kit.

But yeah, a head comparison would be greatly appreciated, since that's the major difference between the different models. I'm leaning toward getting the F and shaving the horn, but I still don't have a great idea how the heads looks aside from the J's.

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There are a lot of comparisons of the various models in the DX toy thread, if you browse through the earlier parts.  Don't have the time to go hunting at the moment, but they appeared early on, right after Bandai started announcing the VF-31 DX, and everyone began debating which type was their favorite. :lol:

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3 hours ago, Lord_Of_Tetris said:

I was taking some pictures to save for later to remind myself of the correct position of all the moving parts, and I figure they work double duty as work-in-progress pictures of my build.

I'm actually really happy with this so far. 

As a reminder, I don't consider myself a master builder. All you see here are stickers (not the waterslide decals), panel-lining, and a conservative amount of sanding and plastic cement.

1.jpg

2.jpg

3.jpg

4.jpg

Thanks for the pics! Can you show us where the stress mark is on the back?

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Yeah, I'm really digging the look of this paint scheme, and the itasha looks good, too. (Dunno if it comes with the sword, though... doesn't seem like it.) I didn't have high hopes for it after the VF-31J Kai didn't look that great, but this one, with the more subdued paint scheme, doesn't look bad at all.

Now I'm debating whether I should get this (it looks good, but I'm not a Mikumo fan) or the VF-31J Kai (don't care for the plane or the itasha design, but the two could look nice together with a simpler paint scheme, maybe black on blue) or wait for a Kaname Deculture kit (because she's best girl).

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12 hours ago, kajnrig said:

Is there a head comparison of the various -31s at all? I'm thinking about picking another one of these up and debating between the various kit releases - regular J/C/F/S, J-Kai, or Super J. The itasha decals that come with the J-Kai don't interest me that much (though the paint scheme is nice), and I'm on the fence about the Super packs, though I suppose if I do want one I can just pick up the add-on kit.

But yeah, a head comparison would be greatly appreciated, since that's the major difference between the different models. I'm leaning toward getting the F and shaving the horn, but I still don't have a great idea how the heads looks aside from the J's.

Dalong.net has all the delta kits reviewed.  There are no closeups, but he has some clear shots of the different heads.  He puts them under the Bandai Ect heading.

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9 hours ago, David Hingtgen said:

So where/what exactly would you sand to prevent that?  The "tube" that goes through the middle part? 

See the part I pointed at in orange? It's a small, flat piece that slides back and forth inside some grooves located in the body of the jet/robot torso. I drew a 2-sided arrow to show you its intended motion.

The fit inside the grooves is very, very tight. You should sand the tabs on the small, flat piece so that it slides back and forth easier inside the grooves.

Untitled-1.jpg

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