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Hi-Metal R


joppewo

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3 hours ago, ZorClone said:

For me the deciding factor of Arcadia vs HMR is what I already own.  If I already have it from Yamato, I won't buy it in HMR unless it's the canon fodder stuff, as I'm using HMR mostly for small scale army building with the non hero units.  If it comes out HMR and I don't have it already from Yamato, then I'll get the HMR.

Also, I discovered some old Micro Machines soldiers in the closet recently and they seem to scale pretty well with the HMR VF-1s, lol.  If I can find a better spot to set them out for a better picture I'll take another one.

 

IMG_1430 2.JPG

Very cool, love the cf as well.

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9 hours ago, Slave IV said:

technoblue pretty much nailed it here:

 

Here's another way to put it:

If you want a more refined and substantial collector's item VF-1, nothing beats the Yamato or Arcadia versions. They are very well made compared to any similar transforming toys and I don't think you would break them unless you put deliberate force where you should not. Pretty standard for a high end, intricate collectible toy.

If you want toys you can fiddle with often and have tons of "pewpew" moments with opposing forces and supporting mecha, HMR is the finest line of Macross toys to ever come out for that purpose.

Like many others, I saw no need to buy just an HMR VF-1 valk so I resisted the line...until the Regults showed up. Then the Glaug, Destroids and so on. Only regret I have now is I should have bought in right off the bat.

Comparing just the Valks, I don't see either as being more delicate than the other. If anything, I got one HMR VF-1 (Hikaru's plain 1J version) that seemed a bit shoddy but other than that, they are all very well made products for their given sizes and intricacies. 

Both have very strong appeal to me so I'm screwed in that I can't choose, I buy them all!

just a quick one, are the Arcadia exactly same as the 1/60 Yamato, or did they tweak, change, improved anything? how about the materials used on both?

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Imo Arcadia/Yamato has made the better VF-1.  That is all they've done.  Mastered the art of making Variable Fighter toys.  They can't do anything beyond that.  When they gave us a Regult it was a model kit that costed what $350 or something near that?  Under their new company they just been doing mostly improve new re-releases at a higher price.  They still have a better VF-1 but there overall line is lacking.  The Hi-metals aren't perfect but they're making regular releases, providing a variety of choices. 

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I think this whole Yamacadia vs. Bandai debate is a bit of apples and oranges. The two lines are of significantly different scales, which makes a huge difference when it comes to variable--especially three-mode--toys. If one says Yamato is better because it's better proportioned, has perfect transformation, etc., well there's no argument. But really, there's no reason it shouldn't be "better" when it's that much bigger (when considering that they're two different kinds of toys--expensive hand-crack vs. full-sized display piece--I still think Bandai did a slightly better job at what it was aiming for compared to what Yamacadia was aiming for...IMO, of course...both lines have their flaws, but I guess I'm more forgiving of Bandai's given the limitations of the smaller size). 

I was actually fine with not owning any modern valk toys at all if Yamato was the only game in town (sold all my Yammies). As others have mentioned, it was the Destroids and Zentradi mechs that lured me into the Hi-Metal line, and I figured, what the hell, I'll pick up a few Bandai's since they're in (roughly) the same scale. 

Edited by gingaio
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Owning both, I agree that there's no real point to directly comparing, as they're not trying to be the same thing. Yamato/Arcadia figures are perfect transformation, high detail collectibles and Hi-Metal Rs are pretty blatantly just plain higher end toys. The small scale both makes it easier to display them and fiddle with them, but also makes it viable to make the destroids and Zentradi mechs in the same scale as part of the same line. Imagine trying to make a mass release 1/60 scale Monster or even Glaug.

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On 9/9/2017 at 1:11 AM, beatsing said:

Both lines are awesome as many have said for different reasons.   I have both lines and display them proudly. 

 

1 hour ago, zzgundam010 said:

I don't think we can do a fair comparison between two different scale (1/60 vs 1/100).

That's why I agree with @beatsing in that both lines are awesome for different reasons.  I also display both lines proudly.

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On 23/08/2017 at 11:23 PM, sumyumgoy said:

Thank you for the suggestion, the person you suggested have some pretty good photos. There was someone in my country selling the roy fokker version at the same price as the milia version. So i reckon might as well get that and hopefully milia will still be availble by next month.

On 23/08/2017 at 11:23 PM, sumyumgoy said:

Welcome, sorry for your wallet in advance!  I'd definitely recommend that you take a look at @Saburo

Anybody that panel lines or top coating their hmr toys be kind enough to share picture of it? Ive been thinking of top coating with matte/flat topcoat to protect the paint when i get my hands of the hmr toy line. But im curious of its aesthetic because i've never top coat before and have minimal experience panel lining.  

Sorry for the quote. Not sure how to delete it on mobile

Edited by Itachizero
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1 hour ago, Itachizero said:

Anybody that panel lines or top coating their hmr toys be kind enough to share picture of it? Ive been thinking of top coating with matte/flat topcoat to protect the paint when i get my hands of the hmr toy line. But im curious of its aesthetic because i've never top coat before and have minimal experience panel lining.  

Sorry for the quote. Not sure how to delete it on mobile

Here is my CF that I panel lined.  I went with a dark brown color but there is also a photo of gray panel lines for comparison.  It isn't top coated though as I like the sheen of the existing plastic.  That and I hate masking ^_^

IMG_20170625_212742.thumb.jpg.01cca2975036262eeeb7efa4fd6fe6f9.jpgIMG_20170506_000016.thumb.jpg.719966d6e5937c079fb92703a2c7d5cb.jpgDSC02530.thumb.jpg.14b6876990782d906f1790673a35da05.jpgDSC02533.thumb.jpg.0501983ed3d7b1d8562437637fd646e0.jpg

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2 hours ago, Roy Focker said:

Help me I couldn't wait for the next release to be shipped so I ordered an old blue VF-19 Hi-metal.  It wasn't at those current insane eBay prices.

I'm confused. So what kind of help do you need? :unknw:

2 hours ago, sumyumgoy said:

Here is my CF that I panel lined.  I went with a dark brown color but there is also a photo of gray panel lines for comparison.  It isn't top coated though as I like the sheen of the existing plastic.  That and I hate masking ^_^

IMG_20170625_212742.thumb.jpg.01cca2975036262eeeb7efa4fd6fe6f9.jpgIMG_20170506_000016.thumb.jpg.719966d6e5937c079fb92703a2c7d5cb.jpgDSC02530.thumb.jpg.14b6876990782d906f1790673a35da05.jpgDSC02533.thumb.jpg.0501983ed3d7b1d8562437637fd646e0.jpg

Awesome!  :wub: 

 

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14 minutes ago, mechaninac said:

The Sun, the air, and chemical breakdown all take their turn at taking a rascally whiz on some Yamato VF-1s...

I honestly have never seen a yellowed Yamato valk, but I've seen a number of older V1 VF-25s that looked as if they were made in or painted yellow, crazy stuff.

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All I gotta do is get some gel for bleaching hair from Sally with 20% hydrogen peroxide in it, put that crap on the yellowed parts, and let them sit out in the sun supposedly and it'll work like magic to make it white again.

I have a MISB VF-1A that hasn't yellowed since I don't allow the sun to shine on it at all.  Just the one I took out of the box has yellowing on it.  MISB one only set me back $25 shipped ;)

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